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Author Topic: Project to dump the new BenQ drive - VAD6038  (Read 191023 times)
MODFREAKz
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« Reply #140 on: August 27, 2007, 04:25:26 AM »

ok here we go!  final Tutorial with diagrams

mirror1: VAD6038 Tutorial.pdf

mirror2: VAD6038 Tutorial.pdf
« Last Edit: August 27, 2007, 04:38:38 AM by Team MODFREAKz » Logged

xry
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« Reply #141 on: August 27, 2007, 04:28:52 AM »

So, now that you've put old on every picture you've posted TMFz, my senses tell me that you've written an final diagram Smiley
Do you have URL?

I destroyed my soldering iron, but I've bought a new one, so I'm getting my key as soon as I get it.
Thanks for firmware, I'll check it out.

EDIT: Haha, while I was writing this, you managed to post them Wink
Well, disregard this, and thanks Wink
« Last Edit: August 27, 2007, 04:43:02 AM by xry » Logged
xordef
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« Reply #142 on: August 27, 2007, 06:00:36 AM »

ok here we go!  final Tutorial with diagrams

Nicely done!

(I now foresee this thread becoming filled with questions on where to find a hacked firmware - I do hope when this thread and your tutorial is reposted on the frontpages that it's made clear that more is needed for this to have value outside that of continuing work on key extraction for spoofing and creation of new iXtreme versions)

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MODFREAKz
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« Reply #143 on: August 27, 2007, 06:56:15 AM »

Maximus will update his ToolBox and c4e will release BenQ iXtreme soon!

so you all should wait patiently, and please don't ask anymore!!

This is a technical thread!!
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rossmichael
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« Reply #144 on: August 27, 2007, 07:46:27 AM »

OK guys for your info

My 2 Benq VAD 6038

drive 1 - VA64930C

drive 2 -VA64930C


drive 1 - key at 0xE030
drive 2 - key at 0xA030

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idog
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« Reply #145 on: August 27, 2007, 08:00:08 AM »

modfreaksz this is nice you also have a pic with the switch installed

Here is what mine looked like prior to the additional cut trace being added.



Caster.

Hmm.. I'm a little confused. I'm going for method #1.

In the tutorial (pdf by MF, thanks !), it says to cut 'both' traces, but then they point to 4 traces.
Then, after cutting all 4 of them, you are supposed to solder wires which seem to lie in between the traces (the yellow marked spots).
Is this correct ? I mean, are the 4 traces you have to cut actually reconnected when you solder the track between the traces to a wire and then put the two wires together ?

So, just to be absolutely sure. I cut the entire part designated by the RED bars (in the pdf) and scratch a bit in between until I can solder onto the part designated by the yellow blocks ?
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uberfry
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« Reply #146 on: August 27, 2007, 08:26:13 AM »

idog: disregard the pics in this thread, only use the pdf tutorial
you have to cut 2 traces in total
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idog
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« Reply #147 on: August 27, 2007, 08:49:17 AM »

Here's what I mean.



I always thought that a trace was the line where a blue block is on in the picture  Embarrassed
Hence my counting of 4 traces. Well, that explains a lot.. I'm just stupid Wink

But ok, it's clear now Wink I'll cut the entire part (the red bar) and only solder wires to the yellow blocks.

Thanks for your patience  Smiley
« Last Edit: August 27, 2007, 08:57:29 AM by idog » Logged
NEO_X
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« Reply #148 on: August 27, 2007, 09:27:12 AM »

can someone put a picture with that switch installed a full board picture thanks
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idog
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« Reply #149 on: August 27, 2007, 09:34:00 AM »

Something that is not in the tutorial. But after flashing (for normal operation of the drive), do I just solder a single wire connecting the two yellow blocks ?
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MODFREAKz
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« Reply #150 on: August 27, 2007, 10:11:45 AM »

Something that is not in the tutorial. But after flashing (for normal operation of the drive), do I just solder a single wire connecting the two yellow blocks ?

no, you should simple reconect the traces.

can someone put a picture with that switch installed a full board picture thanks

hope that helps

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NEO_X
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« Reply #151 on: August 27, 2007, 10:14:55 AM »

modfreak zo the wire that comes from the switch  are connected on each side to 2 traces ?
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zoogderrick2
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« Reply #152 on: August 27, 2007, 11:09:53 AM »

I cant get it to work, i do all the instructions and i get this screen.
 

I kept on making the gap bigger because i thought it was still making a connection. But now I just want to make sure i did it right or what.  below are a few pics of my board.



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Schtrom
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« Reply #153 on: August 27, 2007, 12:13:57 PM »

I can't see it really clear on that picture, but it seems to me your drive is recognized as Manufacturer ID 0x00 and Device ID 0x00. Is it possible that you used TMF's changes for the dosflash.typ file? Look for an entry "0x00 0x00 Unknown SPI" or similar and rem the line with "//". I think TMF used that for testing only.

It seems like the mtk vendor intro failed and the flash is still protected. So maybe an error in cutting the lines.
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MODFREAKz
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« Reply #154 on: August 27, 2007, 12:14:13 PM »

first make sure you have the right DosFlash package with patched DosFlash.typ
download link in Tutorial PDF

then you have to follow the instructions (switch must be in “Off” position when you power up the drive)
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NEO_X
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« Reply #155 on: August 27, 2007, 12:28:32 PM »

because my file is to large i post a link

can someone please look  what i mean thanks for the help guys


http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/6749/boardim9.jpg
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Sc0rpion
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« Reply #156 on: August 27, 2007, 01:11:26 PM »

NEO_X

your arrows are pointing to the outside edges of the trace.
don't mistake that for 2 individual traces, the trace (green) is what is already cut in Team MODFREAKz  pic Wink
« Last Edit: August 27, 2007, 01:27:43 PM by Sc0rpion » Logged
trintiykate
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« Reply #157 on: August 27, 2007, 01:35:55 PM »

would it not make sense with method 2 to actually lift pin 1 and solder the switch between pin 1 and the test point you could then just re solder pin 1 to its pad when done no cutting needed at all what so ever leaves things clean except the removal of the epoxy.
« Last Edit: August 27, 2007, 01:38:40 PM by trintiykate » Logged
MODFREAKz
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« Reply #158 on: August 27, 2007, 02:07:23 PM »

would it not make sense with method 2 to actually lift pin 1 and solder the switch between pin 1 and the test point you could then just re solder pin 1 to its pad when done no cutting needed at all what so ever leaves things clean except the removal of the epoxy.

this is very dangerous for noobs, you could permanently damage the flash!!

I advise against doing this method.

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trintiykate
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« Reply #159 on: August 27, 2007, 02:25:05 PM »

For none noobs then i like things clean Smiley its the exact same thing except no cutting tracks and that's just as dangerous Wink as stated do not do this unless your soldering and remount work are upto scratch you can cause damage as with any modification.

« Last Edit: August 27, 2007, 02:49:12 PM by trintiykate » Logged
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