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Author Topic: Hitachi 47DJ Won't eject not two-wire Restore.BAT failed  (Read 3729 times)
Gimme
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« on: January 04, 2007, 05:27:18 PM »

OK I've been reading threads until my eyes hurt!

Background:
Using a ASUS A7V600 Motherboard with onboard VIA SATA Controller (which has done a MS28 with unedited MTKFLASH)
NOT used Two-Wire Trick
Used SLAX ISO to get drive into mode B
Drive visible in VISTA now as Drive E

Using Maximus-Garyopa_XTRM-HITACHI_v2_2_Stealth:
Tried to flash a Hitachi 47DJ (Think it was a DJ but deffo 47) using FLASH22S.BAT and this failed 1st time in VISTA (Software Compatibility issues) and I got the following files - was.bin, key.bin, 47_22.bin and 47_22S.BIN in my backup directory

Rebooted Vista into Safe Mode and tried again:
This time flashing completed succesfully - Tried to run a known working (on MS25) backup and didn't load
Now have a NOW.BIN etc. in 2nd directory
Compared the WAS from 1st and WAS from 2nd and they are the same

Rebooted SLAX for ModeB
Booted back to VISTA Safe Mode and tried a Restore.BAT
Got a number of failed/retrying messages (cannot remember at which point) hung
Rebooted and Retried and got same

Drive now will not EJECT using XBOX Button (not sure about in Windows but don't think so - I will have drive etc tomorrow)
Apparently Drive is still visible in Windows XP on mates (owner of XBOX) computer but won't eject on his
I think drive was still visible on my Computer before he took it home - and I think I would have tried the eject from properties when we had it but cannot remember

Everything looks like the eject got fried but I didn't use two-wire trick or a executor thingy
I will have drive/xbox back in next 24 hours so can try various methods to recover

One thing worth noting is that RAID was enabled on the SATA which I didn't know until I tried to flash the MS28 using Failed Flash Method and the 10sec trick would not work until I disabled something in the BIOS that didn't indicate that it was RAID.  This was after his drive/xbox had left my house.

Is this drive completely bricked if I can still see it in Windows? Or can I try a restore/reflash?

Here's hoping someone can help save this drive...

EDIT: Apologies for posting in wrong area - thanks for Move but Adding "I had the xbox360 and PC common grounded at all times"
« Last Edit: January 04, 2007, 05:32:52 PM by Gimme » Logged
Gimme
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« Reply #1 on: January 05, 2007, 05:00:25 PM »

OK I deffo think it's fubar

Drive not visible on my Windows Vista (safe or otherwise) and it was before
My RAID (when enabled) sees the HW Model but not visible in RAID Tool (DOS BIOS LEVEL)
When Drive plugged into my SATA cable (PC) Green light flashes quickly - Dashboard on Screen
If XBOX SATA plugged in I get solid Green and Lower Right Light is RED - Hardware Failure? and Nothing on Screen

Drive still doesn't eject (can do it manually with paperclip) but not with XBOX

Is this drive Hardware Flashable - I.e. Stusy?
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stonersmurf
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« Reply #2 on: January 05, 2007, 05:23:37 PM »

If the drive is not physically damaged from cross wire or plugging the power cable in wrong, then a hardware flash will fix it.
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gigabite
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« Reply #3 on: January 05, 2007, 08:21:43 PM »

Notice how you keep saying Windows Vista?? Well, personally I would try it in Windows XP seeing as Vista isn't out yet (still in RC if I rember correctly).  If you can't try it in XP use a programmer and re-program it (PM me if you like) and that should get it going again Smiley Also, make sure you ground your Xbox 360!!

gigabite
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.ISO  - he's a wannabe ... feel part of "t3h sc33n" yet ? QQ

coming 2009
Gimme
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« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2007, 04:57:43 AM »

Notice how you keep saying Windows Vista?? Well, personally I would try it in Windows XP seeing as Vista isn't out yet (still in RC if I rember correctly).  If you can't try it in XP use a programmer and re-program it (PM me if you like) and that should get it going again Smiley Also, make sure you ground your Xbox 360!!

gigabite

Cheers
XBOX was grounded with Main Cable (Stripped at both ends and between the chassis of PC and XBOX)
VISTA is out - MSDN Release for MSDN Subscribers - I have tried in XP also but no avail although will give it one last attempt over the weekend
I Don't think the DVD is in ModeB any longer so cannot get it visible especially as SLAX cannot see it other than a device that times out on response

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tageeboy
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« Reply #5 on: January 28, 2007, 08:53:38 PM »

I did the same thing and can tell you what has been done. I bet you looked at the schmatics wrong as I did. If you use the back view vs the front view of the plug to count the pins to jump you end up jumping 0-8 when I think it was 1=9 we wanted. The drive is fine, thats why windows can see it. The MB in the 360 has been shorted out. The reversed wire trick ends up putting 12v and eject pins together and burn a very small spot on the board. Some users are making switches to manually eject but I have not seen exact steps yet.
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mixup
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« Reply #6 on: January 29, 2007, 08:29:29 AM »

I did the same thing and can tell you what has been done. I bet you looked at the schmatics wrong as I did. If you use the back view vs the front view of the plug to count the pins to jump you end up jumping 0-8 when I think it was 1=9 we wanted. The drive is fine, thats why windows can see it. The MB in the 360 has been shorted out. The reversed wire trick ends up putting 12v and eject pins together and burn a very small spot on the board. Some users are making switches to manually eject but I have not seen exact steps yet.

He says it wasn't the two wire trick!

The culprit is vista though. Bricked my drive and a few other people on here bricked theres via vista. The flasher was not programmed for vista, yes vista is now final.....doesnt mean its 100% compat though Sad.

You'll have to do one of the following:

1) buy a chillifix
2) replace the drive
3) have someone take the chip off and manually flash it

Pretty sure the chillifix is the cheaper option, people charge way too much for simply re-flashing the chip and the chillifix is easy to install (simple soldering)
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Gimme
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« Reply #7 on: January 30, 2007, 05:19:33 PM »

I did the same thing and can tell you what has been done. I bet you looked at the schmatics wrong as I did. If you use the back view vs the front view of the plug to count the pins to jump you end up jumping 0-8 when I think it was 1=9 we wanted. The drive is fine, thats why windows can see it. The MB in the 360 has been shorted out. The reversed wire trick ends up putting 12v and eject pins together and burn a very small spot on the board. Some users are making switches to manually eject but I have not seen exact steps yet.

He says it wasn't the two wire trick!

The culprit is vista though. Bricked my drive and a few other people on here bricked theres via vista. The flasher was not programmed for vista, yes vista is now final.....doesnt mean its 100% compat though Sad.

You'll have to do one of the following:

1) buy a chillifix
2) replace the drive
3) have someone take the chip off and manually flash it

Pretty sure the chillifix is the cheaper option, people charge way too much for simply re-flashing the chip and the chillifix is easy to install (simple soldering)

Good spot wasn't a two wire failure...
You haven't seen my soldering! - for someone who owns 3 irons you think I'd be able to do it by now - If you need something welding I'm ya man!  Grin
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mixup
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« Reply #8 on: January 30, 2007, 05:44:05 PM »

I didn't even need to read the full post to know it wasn't the two wire trick. I saw the word Vista and thought back to my brick which is now sat under my bed because of Vista. I got that used to using it I totally forgot I wasn't using XP haha. Oh well, one day a solution may be found or i'll actually order a chillifix (i doubt either one to be fair)

Just whip one of the irons out and mess around on something old that you don't need anymore, you'd soon pick it up Smiley

--Edit--

Doh I forgot the whole reason I posted. When you connect the drive to the PC does windows still assign a drive letter? if so then it should be fixable. There's an alternate flasher in the DVD-Rom section of this forum, might be worth a shot if you can see the drive still.
« Last Edit: January 30, 2007, 05:46:41 PM by mixup » Logged
xbc
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« Reply #9 on: February 02, 2007, 04:33:21 PM »

I dont think £25.00 is to much to remove and refit a Tsop


I did the same thing and can tell you what has been done. I bet you looked at the schmatics wrong as I did. If you use the back view vs the front view of the plug to count the pins to jump you end up jumping 0-8 when I think it was 1=9 we wanted. The drive is fine, thats why windows can see it. The MB in the 360 has been shorted out. The reversed wire trick ends up putting 12v and eject pins together and burn a very small spot on the board. Some users are making switches to manually eject but I have not seen exact steps yet.

He says it wasn't the two wire trick!

The culprit is vista though. Bricked my drive and a few other people on here bricked theres via vista. The flasher was not programmed for vista, yes vista is now final.....doesnt mean its 100% compat though Sad.

You'll have to do one of the following:

1) buy a chillifix
2) replace the drive
3) have someone take the chip off and manually flash it

Pretty sure the chillifix is the cheaper option, people charge way too much for simply re-flashing the chip and the chillifix is easy to install (simple soldering)
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mixup
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« Reply #10 on: February 02, 2007, 09:32:52 PM »

Oh no, £25 isn't too much at all (same price as a chilliflash) but some people charge way more. Smiley
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