Hitachi GDR-3120L v0078FK thread

[carranzafp]

Well, if you downgrade a 78 to a 59 drive (wich is proven work) you maybe got E66.   

I have the following:

a) Box that comes with 78 drive: Running a 46 drive now
b) Box that comes with 47 drive: Running a 78 drive now

None of those have been updated but I think only "a" will gonna give E66.  I dont have the time to test the E66 thing now

[myXsucx]

Ok I found a way to remove the epoxy from the chip. Its time consuming  but it works I used a razor blade and a small torch I heat the blade till it is red hot then I slowly remove the epoxy it cuts like butter but slow all the heat is applied localy to the epoxy and not like a heat gun where the heat just goes eveywhere I dont do a whole lot of testing but I want to know if I could still use a globe "mod" to solder on my 360 its got a 78fk drive can someone please help.

[fredfunk]

Just got 1 today from argos

ROM Ver 0078FK
July 2006
Model GDR 3120L

Can it be flashed with Maximus-Garyopa_XTRM-HITACHI_v2_3_Stealth_Rev2 ?

[carranzafp]

No, it cant be flashed by software yet.

[garyopa]

Just got a postal notice from customs that my own personal v78 drive to be play with
is waiting for me to be pickup at the local postal / customs depot in my area.

I will be driving over there in the Sat. afternoon to paid the customs broker and taxes
and then get to work shortly afterwards on finalizing some new software to read
and then correctly flash the drive to the latest and greatest Xtreme version ever.

News and progress reports will be posted here.

[fredfunk]

Thanks Gary

Thats great news (Respect)

Will it be just a normal flashing no 2 wire trick or removing glue etc ?

[garyopa]

Thanks Gary

Thats great news (Respect)

Will it be just a normal flashing no 2 wire trick or removing glue etc ?

It will be just normal flashing.

But the 2 wire trick no longer works on the v78 drive,
and the debug button on the Team-X kit also no longer works.
(These functions only work if the "drive key" is blank - not the case on retail x360 units)

You must need a compatible chipset which works with Slax CD,
but the good news in the new x360 USB works with the latest Slax version.

[fredfunk]

Thanks again

ive got the latest slax which works with my via chipset

So i will just sit tight and wait

Thanks Gary

[LittleJonny]

Thanks Gary

Thats great news (Respect)

Will it be just a normal flashing no 2 wire trick or removing glue etc ?

It will be just normal flashing.

But the 2 wire trick no longer works on the v78 drive,
and the debug button on the Team-X kit also no longer works.
(These functions only work if the "drive key" is blank - not the case on retail x360 units)

You must need a compatible chipset which works with Slax CD,
but the good news in the new x360 USB works with the latest Slax version.

Hmm.... i thought that no one could bit write to the drive yet....even with slax?

[LittleJonny]

...or was it that bit writing did not work cos the code had moved around?  Also....  perhaps its an idea to compare how much the code rolls?  is there a set amount of places that the code can roll to?  In other words just how many different firmwares are there? Can it be infinite?  If so then it may need quite a few firmware revisions or a full manual patch each time?...  New mod procedure:  Dump code with slax etc... then run compare proggy...then run bit flash routine?


Possible...

Perhaps if gary cracks one of the new firmwares then we all use that as a base...perhaps no e66 if it really is a date thing.

[carranzafp]

The memdump function on the drive has been killed, not moved to another location.  There is a way of dumping but using E7 subcommands 6 and 7.  And about the flashing, the current flashec could work with some changes but of course you first need dump the firmware to know where you need to patch.  If you run flashec on blind you surely will flash wrong places because of the rolling code.

By the way, I have a socketed 78 drive here, if somebody (seventhson, garyopa?) want to test software let me know

[tired]

Just dumped another 0078 here. The code this time is identical to stusys original dump.

No visible track or pad damage this time .

I will be trying your firmware shortly carranzafp. Shame I didnt buy a PLCC verison of the flash, I could have socketed like you have done.

[tired]

Bit hasty in my compare of latest dump to stusys original dump.

Apart from the obvious key differnces I have 8 bytes difference starting at 4F80

[tired]

Confirmed Working.

Well done carranzafp

[garyopa]

Bit hasty in my compare of latest dump to stusys original dump.

Apart from the obvious key differnces I have 8 bytes difference starting at 4F80

The 8 bytes difference at >4F80 is Hitachi's internal serial number of the drive,
which I find useful in tracking the customer's machine, I once lost what file and
drive key was with what motherboard as I was swapping keys around a bit
too much, but lucky for me those 8 bytes saved me as I found the original
backup with the original drive key by matching those 8 bytes to all my backups.

[tired]

Thanks for that garyopa now I know.

Just pulled another off (sounds rude I know). Have to go out for fireworks now, BUT seems very very different again from my 1st ever dump (which you had), and my second dump that was the same as stusys.

I will send it to you.

[Mjrweed]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoqwbtXup1M

Howto video on removing the black epoxy on v0078, and desoldier/resoldier the chip.

Looks easy 

Props to Team MODFREAKz for the video

[tired]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoqwbtXup1M

Howto video on removing the black epoxy on v0078, and desoldier/resoldier the chip.

Looks easy 

Props to Team MODFREAKz for the video

Not quite as easy as they make it look. They swap the controller board during the video, ie just after epoxy removal. Therefore there is no epoxy underneath the earlier version controller board. The epoxy is always there and makes removal more difficult, requiring more heat and much increased chances of  pad/track damage.

[MODFREAKz]

Not quite as easy as they make it look. They swap the controller board during the video, ie just after epoxy removal. Therefore there is no epoxy underneath the earlier version controller board. The epoxy is always there and makes removal more difficult, requiring more heat and much increased chances of  pad/track damage.

first we wanted make only soldering/desoldering video, (so this part was made befor).
of course on some 78fk contoller boards there are epoxy underneath the chip but the desoldering procedures is same!!

btw under my chip there was no epoxy at all. 

[tired]

first we wanted make only soldering/desoldering video, (so this part was made befor).
of course on some 78fk contoller boards there are epoxy underneath the chip but the desoldering procedures is same!!

btw under my chip there was no epoxy at all. 

[/quote]

Well you are a lucky bunny if you had no epoxy underneath your chip then

To be honest I cannot quite see how you say removing the TSOP is the same even if it has epoxy underneath it, ie removal with your soldering iron?, if thats the case then I would be quite concerned about what you may do to the chip substrate ie you have the joints liquidus but your chip is still epoxied to the PCB, so therefore you are going to lever the chip away from the epoxy whilst it is still hard?.

Anyway I am all ears and if you can make my life and others easier removing these then I will of course listen