Is Pot Tweak at 3.67 Safe with 47DJ? (stock was

[GamerX]

Thanks again to Moda for the great POT tweak tutorial!

I tweaked my Hitachi 47DJ, BEFORE the new GaryOPA fw v1.3 came out.
Now the POT tweak is no longer needed.

Stock POT = 4.03 K Ohms.
Originally tweaked (only used for five minutes and that was with an original) POT = 2.92
Currently raised POT to 3.67 (after v1.3 came out) - reads backup fine, with no (other) tricks.

a) Is a POT of 3.67 safe enough already as far as laser longevity is concerned, considering some come as low as 3.50 from the factory anyway and, IF I read one of Moda's posts correctly, the lasers are supposedly all the same (regardless of drive)
OR
b ) would it make sense for me to jack it up to 3.9 or 4 again (close to the 4.03 factory setting for MY drive).

I want to re-assemble my console, but not before I am sure I have the POT where it should be for laser longevity.
I know the laser units are cheap, but the TIME involved in disassembling the console if a problem arises down the road, ordering the new laser, installing it and re-assembling the console is something I obviously want to avoid.


Thanks!

[dynt]

the feeling is now you can go down to 2.8 ohms with out problems but with the new garyopa/geremia firmware there should not be any reason use it this low only if you need it.

[GamerX]

the feeling is now you can go down to 2.8 ohms with out problems but with the new garyopa/geremia firmware there should not be any reason use it this low only if you need it.

Thanks.
I am aware that I can go as low as 2.9 or 2.8 without problems, but I also know that the laser's lifespan might be reduced with the POT at those low levels.

My real question is whether leaving the POT of 3.67 (vs. original 4.03) would have any noticeable impact on laser life?
(This is in a 47DJ, if drive model matters).

If I knew roughly the average expected laser lifespan at factory POT levels and the approximate reduction in laser lifespan from 4.03 to 3.67, then I could decide whether I can just leave it at 3.67, rather than have to tweak it again.

[LilaQ]

Of course this has an effect on the laser. Through lowering the pot there comes more current to the laser. And these parts will break down someday. More current -> earlier breakdown, less current -> 'usual' breakdown.

Noone can tell you if the difference would be measured in weeks, months or years, but it definitly has an impact on it.


LilaQ

[GamerX]

Of course this has an effect on the laser. Through lowering the pot there comes more current to the laser. And these parts will break down someday. More current -> earlier breakdown, less current -> 'usual' breakdown.

Noone can tell you if the difference would be measured in weeks, months or years, but it definitly has an impact on it.


LilaQ

Thanks for the feedback.

What I was trying to get at is whether 3.67 is safe given the fact that it appears that the stock (factory settings) POT seem to vary to begin with, even for the same drive model:
Considering some apparently start out around 3.50 (from the factory without being tweaked), I thought perhaps a tweaked value of 3.67 on mine, which is actually higher than those drives, is therefore safe from a longevity standpoint, unless different drives handle POT values differently...
I haven't seen enough data for Hitachi factory pot levels yet (only saw one specific post about a Hitachi starting at 3.5x or so) to be sure; if I recall my reading of posts (last week) correctly, it appears that Samsung's start out lower than Hitachi's.

For my needs, anything up to a 5% reduction in laser lifespan is insignificant.

I was hoping someone could comment on the varying stock POT values and whether a Hitachi (47DJ) was safe at 3.67, given the values that some Hitachi's start out at.

[GamerX]

Update (Aug 4):
I decided to bump the DVD POT ALL the way back up to the factory level, as opposed to only raising it partially, as I had done in the interim.
My goal being to maximize laser lifespan, to avoid (hopefully) ever having to open the console up again.
I assume the weaker laser power, due to the higher POT, won't strain the rest of the drive mechanism when it comes to reading DVD+R DL backups.
In any case, everything seems to be loading as fast as before.
 
Hopefully the following specific feedback will help some others who wonder whether or not to bother with the POT tweak, which is definitely no longer needed WHEN using GaryOPA FW 1.3:

I increased the DVD POT on my Hitachi 47DJ back up to stock level (4.01 to be exact, which is essentially the same as the original 4.03).

The games (burned at 2.4X and even 4X) all still boot fine, with NO tricks needed.


Here is my setup:
Burner: Pioneer DVR-111D with TDB 1.23 fw.

Media: Verbatim DVD+R DL media ID = MKM00_ (_ = ?)
Burn speeds used: 2.4X and 4X.
(I was initially tempted to buy the Fuji's on sale at BB, that someone just reported success with, but the Verbatim dye is supposed to be good for long term reliability).

Xbox 360 DVD-ROM = Hitachi 47DJ with GaryOPA 1.3 fw.

I hope this helps a few others with questions.

Thanks for the feedback!