triboot

[uberfry]

I'm following the trend now, so screw da haters.

Can someone tell me wether my circuit will work or not?



I'd verify it, but I'm way too lazy...

Thanks.

and btw, please don't flame me neither here nor in pm, I'm too lazy to read them...

[geebee]

well its not a thread asking for help flashing, so I love it!

ps no idea if its correct though...

[stonersmurf]

Check out this thread http://www.xboxhacker.net/forums/index.php?topic=2376.0
That guy seems to be doing the same thing

[uberfry]

LOL
it IS for that guy

[Redline99]

--stonersmurf

Heh, I think uberfry just pulled a fast one on ya.

[stonersmurf]

LOL
it IS for that guy

huh?

--stonersmurf

Heh, I think uberfry just pulled a fast one on ya.

So confused... 

[uberfry]

the dude who started that thread asked me for it
I just need someone to verify it...

[exrazhell]

Hi there !!! I AM the guy that asked uberfry if my schematic was correct or not.

I drawn that (clear) schematic mixing 2 methods that are currently used to accomplish dualboot :

-dualboot by soldering a new SST39SF020 chip (256Ko) above the original one
-dualboot by replacing the SST39SF020 by an SST39SF040 one (with switch between upper and lower memory of 512Ko of the 040 chip)

Here is my diagram for triboot (original firmware, firmware to play backups, firmware to make backups through a PC):



I think it's right but I only doubt on the place of GND in switch1.
I placed GND in center because I think that by default A18 pin is connected to VDD (+5V) however I didn't found if it was when I looked at datasheet (too newbie to understand how th chip works without modifications) :

* when GND is connected with VDD the led turn on and we have bank 0 of the 040 chip ;
* when GND is connected with A18 we use the second part of the memory of the 040

A good thing with that schematic is that there are only 2 switches and we can know what firmware is used just looking at LEDs (see schematic for corresponding...)

Hope everyone could help me ...

Best regards,

eXraZ

[uberfry]

hmmm sorry, I'm being flooded with PMs
well anyway, the leds aren't the correct way...

[exrazhell]

What LEDS ?

Those from the schematic just above your previous post

or in your scheme

[uberfry]

in your schematic...they catch the whole voltage that way...

[exrazhell]

Ok ... and if I use +5V from the motherboard (even for LED3) => power will be taken from powersuppply directly ...

[uberfry]

LED3 is correct...

[exrazhell]

So schematic part for dualboot inside SSt39SF040 chip is right (left part of the schematic) Or just the position of LED3 ?

I'm certain that the right part of the schematic (dualboot using 2 chips) is without any error, as one CEx or the other will be connected to GND using switch2.

The only doubt was how could I switch between upper and lower area of the memory (the first 256Ko and the second part of the 512Ko whole memory) : so how do I have to connect points GND, A18, and +5V on switch1.

If by default A18 is connected to +5V so my schematic is right.

I think that by default the whole memory is used ; To flash either the first 256Ko or the other 256Ko of the memory, we'll flash as it's describe just like that (Thanx to Geremia for his post in "Dual firmware epoxy removal video" page 2) :

MTkflash works with ST39SF040 because it doesn't need most significant address lines for erasing/writing/deviceidentifying, maybe other flashes will work, some flashes are not present in mtkflash.typ but can be added easily.

Anyway for flashing separately the upper an lower flash area, you need to:

mtkflash W /A0 /M fw1.bin for lower area (with A18 to GND)
mtkflash W /A4 /M fw2.bin for upper area (with A18 to VCC) >>> would'nt it be A18 connected to VDD = +5V instead of VCC (even if VCC is used to say powe r???)

with the /Ax switch mtkflash will do a sector erase instead of an entire chip erase, i mean, if you want to program the upper area and you use mtkflash W /M fw2.bin it will erase the entire chip and flash only the upper area, loosing the fw in the lower area.

Ok then ... someone to confirm the whole schematic ?

[exrazhell]

Nobody to confirm the whole schematic

Do I have to invert positions of GND and A18 on switch1 to be sure that I switch connection between A18 and +5V or GND In this case there'll be only two leds so no mean to know what bank we'll be using in SST39SF040 ...

PLEASE somebody !!!

(^_^)

eXraZ

[carranzafp]

I think there is no need for tri-boot anymore...

Birdy have released version 2.0 for hitachi wich includes Hack and F900 mode for extracting ss (for 46 version), it is time question (hours) to get released for all versions.   And commodore4eva have released similiar version 2 weeks ago for samsung drives.

[exrazhell]

So what you say is that we can play backups AND make backups (=rip original games including dumping corrects SS from each dvd-drive, as I was thinking that SS could only be dumped by samsung drive and NOT by hitachi drives that provide bad SS : correct me if I'm wrong  ) in the same time, using ONLY ONE firmware (with the two dvd-drive as you said)

If it's that so yes, triboot isn't interesting. If I'm not sure of all of this, I'd prefer to make triboot as I already purchased an SST39SF040 chip and received it ...

Thanx for helping. Could you just confirm what I understood of your post

Regards,

eXraZ

[uberfry]

you could also make use of it by putting the original fw on bank 0 and the hacked on bank 1...oh, and socket it, so if you "brick" your drive, you can still program it externally

[exrazhell]

Thanx everybody 

However, I'd prefer to solder a chip above an other instead of desoldering the original from the PCB, as  I'm really affraid of removing glue and having to solder the socket as it's a CMS component (is it english  ) and as I'm not really sure of being able to do this thing ... 

And I have no idea to how I could program externaly the chip (of course I know that I will have to use an external programmer and ICProg or an other soft but I'm a real noob at this  ).

So I can solder the SST39SF040 above the original chip, then flash bank0 and bank1 (so I'll be sure I'll be using hack firmware on sst39sf040 chip) with the hack firmware (so uberfly you confirm that this firmware let us to play and make backups with this only firmware and on all hitachi versions : it's one of the firmwares contained in GaryOPA Xtreme v1.3 Hitachi-LG Firmware 7in1 pack, am I right ).

What's pack name for Samsung drive please (I'm a little bit lost with all posts related to TS fw and I don't reach to find the latest one ...)

>>> I think that I will be obliged to have the switch1 in my schematic to use one of the other bank, even if I let the switch inside the xbox360 and I will never use it : could you confirm me on this point

So in conclusion : I'll have one switch to choose either the original fw or the hack fw (so two LEDs), the last fw will let me play and back up games >>> it's really good !!! Thx ... (GRRRR triboot isn't needed ah ah ah ah ah !!!)