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Author Topic: Xbox 360 SLIM value for C1T2 [used as 3.3V and GND by Cygnos] = 10uF 50V  (Read 1731 times)
ZerOneX
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« on: March 28, 2012, 07:19:23 PM »

Does anyone know the value for C1T2?

Thanks in advance.



---------------------------------------------

Master have found the correct value.

Probably I've measured it on the board what affect the real reading according to Cory's explanation.

Tks mate.
« Last Edit: July 02, 2012, 02:58:02 PM by ZerOneX » Logged

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ZerOneX
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« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2012, 02:04:13 PM »

I already have bought a new multimeter... the value is 10uF 50v

Credits go to Master.... thank you m8!!

Cheers.

« Last Edit: July 02, 2012, 02:46:36 PM by ZerOneX » Logged

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edsondario
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« Reply #2 on: April 03, 2012, 03:32:02 AM »

If I had seen before I would measure it for you.

 Smiley
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Master
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« Reply #3 on: June 15, 2012, 08:56:38 AM »

do anyone know where to get one of this in the EU?

the closes thing I found was a 4.7uF 50v SME, there is power in the xbox but it acts funny and wont boot when using it..

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Master
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« Reply #4 on: June 17, 2012, 01:22:01 PM »

I found out that on a German site that C1T2 is a 10uF 63V 10%, can anybody confirm this?
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ZerOneX
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« Reply #5 on: June 18, 2012, 08:30:24 PM »

I´m not sure mate... my reading here is "scoring" 5 in the 200uF range
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cory1492
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« Reply #6 on: June 19, 2012, 12:53:07 AM »

ZerO you measured it removed? By you're pic that big cap is in parallel with at least one resistor and another cap.
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Master
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« Reply #7 on: June 21, 2012, 01:13:30 PM »

I just did replace it with a 10uF 50v SME and its working perfect now..

ZerOneX: did you get it to work with only 5uF?
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ZerOneX
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« Reply #8 on: July 02, 2012, 02:38:10 PM »

I do not remember cory, maybe this is the reason why I've got different values on reading!!

So, I'm gonna update the mains thread to not confuse the others!!!
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ZerOneX
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« Reply #9 on: July 02, 2012, 02:39:28 PM »

I just did replace it with a 10uF 50v SME and its working perfect now..

ZerOneX: did you get it to work with only 5uF?

No man, I was able to restore the original smd cap to the board.
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john1230
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« Reply #10 on: August 04, 2012, 11:19:56 AM »

I just did replace it with a 10uF 50v SME and its working perfect now..

ZerOneX: did you get it to work with only 5uF?

Where did you get the capacitor from? I've search google and all I could find is places that sells it in the 100s. I only need 1 (2 at most) so I don't want to buy a 100 and have 99 sitting on a shelf.

Edit: I was thinking of scavenging the capacitor from one of my broken Xenon motherboard but my "MS8910 SMD SMT multimeter" is giving me some funky readings so it's a no go with this meter. Can someone recommend me a good capacitor meter to get? or if someone have a xenon board laying around can you have a look and see which part can be used to replace the slim's C1T2 capacitor? Thank in advance.

Edit2: I Just found the board schematics here: http://www.scribd.com/doc/23509655/Diagrama-xbox360
I am currently looking through it to find the right capacitor for the slim. Hope this will help someone.

Edit3: I've spent some time looking at the schematics and have not seen any 10uf 50v capacitors in 0603 size, the only capacitors that is the right size and voltage are these: C7T100 C1T1 C7T98 C2B15 C2B12 C2P51 C2P20 C3M1 C3A7 (top fan plug) but these are 1uf 50v X7R (0)603 SMT. Can anyone confirm that 10uf 50v is the correct value?
« Last Edit: August 05, 2012, 10:23:02 AM by john1230 » Logged
Yntialan
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« Reply #11 on: August 06, 2012, 10:21:07 AM »

Quote
Edit2: I Just found the board schematics here: http://www.scribd.com/doc/23509655/Diagrama-xbox360
I am currently looking through it to find the right capacitor for the slim. Hope this will help someone.


https://rapidshare.com/#!download|463p4|346070652|Xbox360XenonDiagram.pdf|1615|0|0
« Last Edit: August 06, 2012, 10:22:39 AM by Yntialan » Logged
john1230
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« Reply #12 on: August 07, 2012, 09:14:52 AM »


Thanks for uploading the PDF, it makes it much easier to look through.

Edit: Turns out the capacitor was not the problem for my cygnos troubles as I did replace it with a capacitor from the Xenon board (C3M1) and it does sort of works (power on and the LED turns red) it boots into the dashboard but you won't be able to tell if the control pad is synced or not due to the red dot of unknowingness. I put the original cap back on and it still went to the red light so I removed the bundle of wire from the bottom of the board going to FT4R2 point and wrap the wire around the heatsink on topside of the board and it cleared right up after a reflash of both NAND. I did measure the capacitor before I soldered it back on the board, it gave me readings from 20uf to 14uf. As I am unwilling to mess with the board again, I am not sure if replacing the capacitor with a 1uf will work or not, as I said above it does boot into the dash with the 1uf capacitor. So if you're out of options you can try the 1uf capacitor, it did no harm to my board. I now have a dual booting slim so I am a happy bunny. Hope this is of some help to somebody.
« Last Edit: August 11, 2012, 09:47:17 PM by john1230 » Logged
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