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Author Topic: Reset Frequency  (Read 1510 times)
pako75
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« on: November 27, 2011, 06:14:25 AM »

Hello,
I'm trying to glitch a hard slim....
It just glitched 4-5 times, but now it doesn't glitch anymore and i can hear from the fan that the console resets every second instead the classical 5-7 seconds reset.

What can i do???
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barnhilltrckn
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« Reply #1 on: November 27, 2011, 02:42:18 PM »

Well from my exp. when its glitching fast instead of every 5 sec or so then its something in your wiring. Check that and re-solder to see if that helps, like i said ive had that happen on me a few times and it always leads back to my wiring.
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pako75
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« Reply #2 on: November 28, 2011, 05:09:58 AM »

Just checked all the wirings, nothing seems wrong but still resets many times per second.....
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xboxbreaker
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« Reply #3 on: November 28, 2011, 05:13:00 AM »

I think that means the clock speed is not being changed, so your CPLD might not be doing anything atall. You should triple check wiring, or that the CPLD is functioning.
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pako75
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« Reply #4 on: November 28, 2011, 12:22:30 PM »

I don't know what to do anymore....
Rechecked all the wirings, changed cpld, as soon i switch on the console tha fan starts with his detestable TA-TA-TA-TA-TA

I'm gonna hate this console!!!!!!!!!

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cory1492
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« Reply #5 on: November 28, 2011, 03:52:12 PM »

Check your reset lead... I had an odd chip that if I connected reset to the pad it would do the same after a couple successful boots but connected to any other point that was still connected to that pad and it worked fine; also a slightly too high cap value on reset lead can have the exact same effect.
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Blackaddr
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« Reply #6 on: November 28, 2011, 07:35:29 PM »

Does it do this every time you power up?  If not, whenever it happens, unplug for 20 seconds and try again.  Check your I2C lines, too.  I've been playing with the HANA on my falcon and I've noticed that the I2C bus is susceptible to corruption.  

If you have a system that seems to run fine sometimes, but other times gets in a very short (or very long) reboot/crash cycle then you probably need to power cycle to clear it.

For those who want a little more technical detail here are some causes:

i) Cold solder joints on your I2C lines can result in corrupted I2C transfer.  As a result the HANA register controlling CPU clock speed is set to an unstable value and the clock loses lock.
ii) the CPU (via the SMC) polls the HANA status on fairly frequent basis.  If the CPLD attempts to change the clock speed while the I2C bus is busy, the transaction gets corrupted and same problem as above.
iii) In some instances changing the HANA frequency register repeatedly (like the CPLD does over many boots) can also cause the clock to become unstable (loss of lock).  If you reset the HANA PLLs themselves after a clock frequency change, it's always stable.  It's basically looks like a crapshoot each time you switch frequencies without a PLL reset, it may unlock occasionally.

I've experienced ii) and iii) many times while doing my research.  The HANA is reset by the SMC on reach reboot but the reset does not actually reset the HANA registers or the PLLs.  At first I had to power cycle whenever this happened, but eventually I found the individual resets for the PLL which I can use to recover the system on the fly, however the CPLD does not do this currently.

« Last Edit: November 28, 2011, 07:44:13 PM by Blackaddr » Logged

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pako75
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« Reply #7 on: November 29, 2011, 04:36:15 AM »

Does it do this every time you power up?  If not, whenever it happens, unplug for 20 seconds and try again.  Check your I2C lines, too.  I've been playing with the HANA on my falcon and I've noticed that the I2C bus is susceptible to corruption.  

Yes, it happens every time i power up the console....
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pako75
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« Reply #8 on: November 29, 2011, 04:37:13 AM »

Check your reset lead... I had an odd chip that if I connected reset to the pad it would do the same after a couple successful boots but connected to any other point that was still connected to that pad and it worked fine; also a slightly too high cap value on reset lead can have the exact same effect.

I have connected the wire to an alt point for the reset, but allways the same ta-ta-ta
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rf1911
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« Reply #9 on: November 29, 2011, 07:36:40 AM »

What if u restore original nand? That behaviour on glitched fat means RROD.
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pako75
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« Reply #10 on: November 29, 2011, 08:11:05 AM »

I tryed some days ago to restore the original nand and the console was ok.
I reflashed the hacked bin and the xbox started again doing this problem
« Last Edit: November 29, 2011, 08:12:41 AM by pako75 » Logged
Xb0xGuru
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« Reply #11 on: November 29, 2011, 11:04:13 AM »

What length CPU_RST wire are you using?
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pako75
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« Reply #12 on: November 29, 2011, 11:10:01 AM »

I've tryed varius lenght.... glitched with about 30 cm
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cory1492
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« Reply #13 on: November 29, 2011, 03:33:36 PM »

Check your reset lead... I had an odd chip that if I connected reset to the pad it would do the same after a couple successful boots but connected to any other point that was still connected to that pad and it worked fine; also a slightly too high cap value on reset lead can have the exact same effect.

I have connected the wire to an alt point for the reset, but allways the same ta-ta-ta
That is what mine was doing, moving the wire to a different point to connect to the CPLD (not the console!) instead of the pad on the pre-made glitch chip fixed the problem for this one - the problem with this chip didn't happen until after a few successful boots thus had me stumped for a couple hours. Also, I did mess with various caps other than 220/270, initially the board had a 270pF cap on it and it did that very same thing (as well, with higher ones like 680pF it did that too).. when I put a 220pF on it the problem went away.

In each case, when I put a DMM on the reset lead while it was connected to the CPLD it never went higher than about 0.8V, as soon as I disconnected the reset lead from the CPLD it went to 1.8V no problem - which indicated the problem was with the CPLD and not the wire...
« Last Edit: November 29, 2011, 03:35:55 PM by cory1492 » Logged
janvkem
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« Reply #14 on: December 01, 2011, 04:10:32 AM »

That is what mine was doing, moving the wire to a different point to connect to the CPLD (not the console!) instead of the pad on the pre-made glitch chip fixed the problem for this one - the problem with this chip didn't happen until after a few successful boots thus had me stumped for a couple hours. Also, I did mess with various caps other than 220/270, initially the board had a 270pF cap on it and it did that very same thing (as well, with higher ones like 680pF it did that too).. when I put a 220pF on it the problem went away.

In each case, when I put a DMM on the reset lead while it was connected to the CPLD it never went higher than about 0.8V, as soon as I disconnected the reset lead from the CPLD it went to 1.8V no problem - which indicated the problem was with the CPLD and not the wire...

Have you optimized boottimings on this xbox? I got a slim which had the exact same problem. First couple of times booting great. Then slower and after a while not anymore at all and giving me the ta-ta-ta sound. Changing the 270 pF cap to 220 solved the not booting, but if i shorten the cpu_rst wire from 45 to around 30 it gives me the ta-ta-ta sound while most say the sweet spot should be around 30 cm. cpu_rst signal fluctuates a lot in strength (measured with multimeter). Where you able to shorten the length of cpu_rst wire?
« Last Edit: December 01, 2011, 10:07:38 AM by janvkem » Logged
prime2011
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« Reply #15 on: December 01, 2011, 06:37:44 AM »

Had this issue with console today, turned out there were contacts on some of the diodes etc that were not fully soldered and once soldered it came good and resets went back to normal. Might want to try resolder some of the components on the glitch board as there seems to be quite a few going around that are not being soldered right (not enough solder or once side of diode not soldered down etc...)
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pako75
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« Reply #16 on: December 02, 2011, 11:42:03 AM »

Sorry for my absence, but in these days i'm very busy.

I just tried to erase and rewrite the original nand, but i think the xbox is died!!!!!!!!!
Also with the original nand the console starts, i can listen the same ta-ta-ta for a short time, and then red light and black screen...

Any ideas boys??
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xboxbreaker
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« Reply #17 on: December 05, 2011, 08:53:18 AM »

The xbox will RLOD after a few resets with an original SMC. What is the secondary error code?
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