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Author Topic: Philips DROM6316 - 0800 drive  (Read 7477 times)
l_oliveira
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« Reply #20 on: December 12, 2011, 11:27:28 AM »

Why don't someone who knows how to patch the 0800 FW make it so the thing work with inverted motor wires and push button behavior (no hardware changes on DROM-6316) ?
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eXOBeX
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« Reply #21 on: December 12, 2011, 05:02:11 PM »

It'd certainly make sense. Trouble is, the DROM6316 is a rare drive, so even if the 0800 firmware was tweaked to work correctly there wouldn't be a lot of call for it. Better to get the firmware working with a more common (i.e. a current) drive, or even incorporated into iXtreme Burner Max.
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mattjk
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« Reply #22 on: December 14, 2011, 10:45:58 AM »

Why don't someone who knows how to patch the 0800 FW make it so the thing work with inverted motor wires and push button behavior (no hardware changes on DROM-6316) ?

You wouldn't happen to know how to do this would you Mr Brazilian Xbox expert?  Wink

I have just sourced 3 of these drives from Deutschland
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geep6
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« Reply #23 on: December 16, 2011, 01:37:18 PM »

pretty sure the 6216 will not work it has a ali chip i had one laying around figured i open it and look



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mattjk
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« Reply #24 on: December 23, 2011, 03:07:50 PM »

LED is constantly on when drive tray is closed, any way to fix this? Or would it require a FW tweak... cheers.
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JOCKz
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« Reply #25 on: December 24, 2011, 10:55:30 AM »

TMF tutorial says to remove LED or R519 resistor

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mattjk
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« Reply #26 on: December 24, 2011, 01:34:06 PM »

Was hoping it would work correctly - I did of course consider the fact removing the LED would work lol.

Have a good one.
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l_oliveira
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« Reply #27 on: December 26, 2011, 03:52:15 PM »

LED is "TRAY STATUS" on VAD-6038 drive. There's no fix for that besides firmware change or LED removal (cut the wire or trace is enough)
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k0mpresd
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« Reply #28 on: January 10, 2012, 12:17:28 PM »

scored one of these for $12usd shipped on ebay. pretty excited to do this mod.
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Gazcoigne
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« Reply #29 on: January 23, 2012, 04:32:24 AM »

Managed to find one on eBay for £2.99 bargain!!
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Gazcoigne
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« Reply #30 on: February 06, 2012, 07:58:14 PM »

Just completed the whole drive modification really pleased with the result

I used Smokeingit 4th tutorial, but found that a lot of the wiring mentioned is not necessary at all he has two switches presumably to power the drive on and off and one for eject mechanism. I left out the power switch and simply wired the eject.

flipped motor ok but lifted all 4 pads on the stock eject button because i tried to use solid core wire that was far far too thick (Schoolboy error DOH!!)

am writing a small guide to show how to fix it if you do the same as me (dont panic its easily resolved)

installed a rocker switch in the place of the old eject button, measured the switch and dremeled out a precise hole for the rocker switch looks pretty neat almost stock!!

plenty of dremeling required to make the rocker switch sit neatly beside the LED. Ripped the LED out instead of removing resistors etc.

testing a rip now going well no errors, ran game through abgx and it is 100% ok no CRC errors etc

seems the DROM6316 also uses a HOP141 laser, or one that looks pretty identical.

pics to follow!!
« Last Edit: February 06, 2012, 08:21:20 PM by Gazcoigne » Logged

k0mpresd
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« Reply #31 on: February 07, 2012, 03:24:34 PM »

seems the DROM6316 also uses a HOP141 laser, or one that looks pretty identical.

did you look at the tag on the laser? hop141d
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Gazcoigne
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« Reply #32 on: February 07, 2012, 06:56:44 PM »

no i didnt funny enough was stressing out as i had lifted the pads on the switch!!


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Gazcoigne
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« Reply #33 on: February 07, 2012, 07:09:50 PM »

ok heres my shortened guide to doing this mod take it or leave it, only difference is i show what to do if you f*** up any of the pads whilst desoldering the motor or switch.

all credit for the original mod goes to Team MODFREAKz, and the guides i have used and modified were originally by smokeingit and ROCKmyJOCKs, many props to them for their work!!

it goes without saying that you should flash the 0800 V3 firmware to the drive using jungleflasher or dosflash before doing the hardware modification. well i did anyway!!  Grin

Step 1

Remove drive casing, tray bezel and front plate, eject tray and carefully lift tab to slide tray out of drive.

take the tray and flip it over and look for this little tab that stops the tray from fully ejecting out of the drive, its basically a little stopper.



use a dremel or cutting tool to carefully remove about 2mm from the top, there is a small line on the tab that you MUST NOT cut below or else the tray will end up ejecting right out of the drive. Aim to be perfectly in line with this little marker.



the above picture shows snips but i personally used a dremel with a sandpaper cylinder tool much easier IMHO

heres what is should end up looking like



tray ready!!

Step 2

Now for the drive eject motor daughterboard modification.

desolder the motor from the board using copper braid and be careful not to lift the pads (if you do, read on!!)

carefully rotate the motor 180 degrees good idea to mark the original position of the motor as a reference in case you get mixed up or the drive hits the floor etc!!



then you can remove the motor board from the chassis, should look like this



in the above picture, only the lower two pads are required, the top two are simply pads that connect to ground to attach the switch and make it solid there is no electrical function for these. The original tutorials show a wire joining these but it is completely unnecessary. mine does not have this wire and it works perfectly, why join ground to ground its already connected as its one massive ground plane!!



this pic is the back of the board. I fed two wires though the board from this side and soldered them, and when the drive is reassembled, this side of the board is not pressed against the lower casing, and it is much neater.

Now, if like me, you managed to lift all the pads on this little switch, DONT PANIC!! but do slap yourself and practice your soldering a bit more!!  Grin

here is the alternate points for you to solder your wires to that are passing through the board, and also if you managed to fubar the pads connecting to the motor, you can wire them direct to the traces as shown below too. you will need to glue the motor down onto the board however to ensure that it is solid. hot glue works good for this.



Step 3

The wires then run to a rocker switch which looks awesome installed in place of the original eject button. Measure the dimensions of your switch and stick masking tape on the drive front to mark out the hole required and dremel it out. Takes a bit of time and patience to make it neat and tidy dont make it too big or your switch will wobble about.



The rocker switch i got from Maplins (UK) was 12mm deep and 19mm wide, and i had to dremel about 4mm off the lower side reducing the depth to around 8mm to allow the motor daughterboard to fit back into the drive, and there is a small tab on the drive chassis that also had to be dremelled flat to allow the drive to fit together properly.

the two wires that we previously soldered to the lower two pads (or alternate points) are then attached to the rocker switch.

good idead to test the drive before you finally solder the switch in and reassemble the drive.

heres 2 pics of my completed drive ($#!t quality on iphone camera apologies)





drive done!!

stick it into PC, and voila!! one internal 0800 drive that also acts as a normal PC drive when not ripping your games!!

great mod, really enjoyed doing it and i hope this guide helps anyone unfortunate enough to mess up the pads on the switch, the are small rings that are easily lifted if you mod in the early hours like me or are not the best at soldering.

Gaz
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eXOBeX
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« Reply #34 on: March 09, 2012, 08:51:22 PM »

The only addition I'd make is this: eject the tray and remove the bezel from it before you start. It makes it easier if you manage to get the drive in a state where it doesn't want to open, as the tray bezel will normally stop you removing the main front bezel (I can't remember how I managed that, but it was a swine to get the main front bezel off when I did, I think I had to manually wind the tray out).

A cracking set of tutorials, well worth doing if you're lucky enough to source a drive.
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ROCKmyJOCKs
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« Reply #35 on: April 08, 2012, 02:55:37 PM »

That little pinhole in the from is an emergency eject eXOBeX Cheesy. I just re-hosted the .pdf file on google docs. Seems like the file sharing fiasco is making it harder to even share information !
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eXOBeX
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« Reply #36 on: April 23, 2012, 08:57:23 PM »

D'oh! I didn't even notice the bloody eject pinhole!  Cheesy
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