Another glitch chip - X360Glitch, any opinion?

[Avrbuster]

Looks ok to me. c5 bridged? Have you removed D3 and made the link for a stable 1.8V?.

I couldn't get mine to glitch with the reset wire going from top to bottom, hence I ended up just topside. I didn't use the ground on the coax at either end, it also wouldn't glitch with 30cm of coax it needed to be shorter. I ended up with pretty good glitch times, a lot of the time they are instant.

If you are pretty sure that you have wired it all correctly and that your ecc image is fine, device programmed correctly then I would concentrate on the reset wire, in my experience it's what caused the problems.

I have C5 bridged (it's the slim bridge beside C5 and D1A, it's not actually C5 right??!?!??), but i'm not sure I have moded for a stable 1.8V.  I got one of the slim chips (it was suppose to be a falcon, but they shipped two slims.  I read it happened to a bunch of people), so I don't have any caps on it.  I will search for the 1.8 mod, I think I read that here, but since I didn't have a falcon chip i didn't think it applied.

I am using J-runner and super nand to read and program the Nand so I'm pretty sure it's good.  I'm also using J-runner to program the X360Glitch chip, it seems to be working well.

Thanks for all the help, I did find I had my STBY_CLK soldered to the wrong pad.  So I have changed that and am trying the 4 xsvf's again.

Avrbuster

[Avrbuster]

What shoudl the fans do and what should the ring of light do?

I had my fans pulsing about every 30 secs, now all of a sudden they are pulsing every sec.  Should I hear them "modulating" at all?  My Center green light is on and nothing else.

I was flashing xsvf c on once I finished and powered on the xbox 360 I got 3 red lights, so I shut it off and turned it back on now the fans seem to be pulsing faster no matter what flash I put on but the center light is still green and no red?!?!?

Avrbuster.

Edit: Should I start a new Thread?

[thebobinc]

this happen to me earlier with JRunner , dash boot once fine , then second try fan vent to max, and E72 from no where . it happen to few other member on the french forum i'm on . so i think it is related to JRunner

[tired]

AVRbuster

The fans should pulse every 5 secs approx.

That's right I don't mean C5, it's the slim point I mean.

I used a phat chip with D1-3 removed in the end, with link from D3A to regulator. I used the phat version as coolrunner is switched to phat for RGH 2.0 on a phat and also matrix V1 phat point bridged for RGH 2.0, so that was my logic.

[Avrbuster]

I got it to boot into Xell-Reloaded!!!!!

The boot times are sh!t so I'm trying to get that cleaned up.

Thanks tired for the nudge in the 1.8 V direction, looks like if you have a slim version of this chip you will need to modify it.

I will post back (might be later this week) when I figure out how to reduce the boot times.

Right now Version B of the xsvf is working the most reliable.  I have to reboot it about 3 times, letting it go for about 30 secs each time.

Avrbuster

P.s.  Version C of the xsvf gives me RROD, seems odd considering TX says the 4 files should all work?!?!?!?

[MOOCHI]

Hi guys

Maybe someone can help me with this chip on Zypher.

I solder all points but I can't get RROD (0022) - the console just boot OK (no fan speed change)
tried
* solder R3 no caps...
* add cap 100nf on J1\ J4A and cap 470pf on between J6 and CPU_RESET with R3

I know that until I get 0022 on the original nand there is no need to proceed to next step and flash the ECC...
does this chip need any modification for the Zypher? (I first bought it for Zypher version).

 
thanks,

[Avrbuster]

Hi guys

Maybe someone can help me with this chip on Zypher.

I solder all points but I can't get RROD (0022) - the console just boot OK (no fan speed change)
tried
* solder R3 no caps...
* add cap 100nf on J1\ J4A and cap 470pf on between J6 and CPU_RESET with R3

I know that until I get 0022 on the original nand there is no need to proceed to next step and flash the ECC...
does this chip need any modification for the Zypher? (I first bought it for Zypher version).

 
thanks,

Some people were saying you need to change the voltage to Pin 7 and Pin 15, but I think that was just to optimize the timing.

Are you connecting using the RGH 1.0 or 2.0 version?

I didn't know you were suppose to get RROD with the chip installed and the original NAND, I will have to try that tonight.

Sorry I'm not much help.

Avrbuster

[Avrbuster]

I used a phat chip with D1-3 removed in the end, with link from D3A to regulator. I used the phat version as coolrunner is switched to phat for RGH 2.0 on a phat and also matrix V1 phat point bridged for RGH 2.0, so that was my logic.

So Tired, one more question, did you split the voltage going to pins 15 and 7?  I read somewhere that pin 15 should get 1.8 vdc and pin 7 should get 1.3 - 1.1 Vdc.  I lifted pin 7 and fed it 1.8 through a 1N4148, but I didn't notice a boot time improvement.

Thanks
Avrbuster.

[MOOCHI]

Some people were saying you need to change the voltage to Pin 7 and Pin 15, but I think that was just to optimize the timing.

Are you connecting using the RGH 1.0 or 2.0 version?

I didn't know you were suppose to get RROD with the chip installed and the original NAND, I will have to try that tonight.

Sorry I'm not much help.

Avrbuster

Thanks.
Use RGH1
this is multimeter results:
(xbox connect to power not turned on)

DC-
yellow point - 2
red point - 2
green point - 1.37

Res
R2A - 3.5 -4
R1A - weird the multimeter stay on 1 ... or -1 ....

One thing that I notice - my R2 down log (only - not both legs) bridge to R3 short - can this be the problem (I can't remove this bridge...   ) ?

[thebobinc]

what tired meen is this : http://pudrik.com/stuff/ledsw.jpg , just don't pay attention to the led , if this don't help try to play around with your wire

[Avrbuster]

what tired meen is this : http://pudrik.com/stuff/ledsw.jpg , just don't pay attention to the led , if this don't help try to play around with your wire

Thanks thebobinc, That's what i did, except by jumping the solder point near C5 you are putting 1.8 Vdc on the + at D3A so the wire is redundant. Right?  I think if you ring out the red line (without connecting it) you would find continuity.

[Avrbuster]

Thanks.
Use RGH1
this is multimeter results:
(xbox connect to power not turned on)

MOOCHI, Just FYI with the 3.3 vdc (J2 to the XBOX360) connected you will have power to your Chip.  They use the stanby 3.3 vdc to power the glitch chip so with power just pluged in you will be powering your chip.  Resistance measurements with power on are always a little suspect.

I have not done a RGH 1.0 so I'm not sure how much help I will be, but I would check power and gnd.  You should see 3.3 vdc between J1 and J2 with the Xbox plugged in.  then I would ring out your connections to the xbox to make sure you have good solder connections.

Hope that helps.

[tired]

AVRbuster

I have never done that modification that you suggested, never had a need. For me the key to all of this is the cpu_reset wire. On all slims and phats with RGH 2.0.

I did another RGH 2.0 today on Jasper 16MB BB using one of these chips. Resaonably good boot times. Similar to slims really.

I found that a 10R resistor didn't really achieve much difference. I have a 50R pot here that I did experiment with in 5-10R range and again not much difference. Also using the RG174 didn't make much difference. i ended up with the same as I do on slims. 42CM wire coiled. On the jasper I coil it infront of the AV port that the chip is fitted onto. There is a free area next to the BGA chip, then route the wire along the side of the heatsinks in a straight line to the topside cpu-reset point.

Also did a quich experiment to see if bridging the 'phat' point made any difference... it didn't.

I am wondering if we could create our own file for this chip. I have been dissapointed with the results when I have the cpu-reset wire 10mm away from the point it's soldered too. In theory it should be the best place to get great glitch times, ie fitting the chip underneath right next pin 2. So i am wondering if it's down to the jed file created and that the timings are based on longer wires for this point. I did read some time ago a post by blackadder suggesting that this would be the best method to get good timings and that just one parameter needed changing with a possible of 4 ish (I think) variants. Food for thought.

[MOOCHI]

MOOCHI, Just FYI with the 3.3 vdc (J2 to the XBOX360) connected you will have power to your Chip.  They use the stanby 3.3 vdc to power the glitch chip so with power just pluged in you will be powering your chip.  Resistance measurements with power on are always a little suspect.

I have not done a RGH 1.0 so I'm not sure how much help I will be, but I would check power and gnd.  You should see 3.3 vdc between J1 and J2 with the Xbox plugged in.  then I would ring out your connections to the xbox to make sure you have good solder connections.

Hope that helps.

Hi, I do have 3.3 between J1 and J2
BUT I can't point the problem...
One thing that I know for sure - MY FANS NOT TICK EVERY 5 SEC LIKE THEY NEED TO...
what can be the problem in situation like this  xbox side or chip side
BTW - when the XBOX boot (after flash ecc file) he is not giving me any error (red light...) just black screen and the fan speed is equal all the time without ticking...

please help - I'm despaired.

[Avrbuster]

Hi, I do have 3.3 between J1 and J2
BUT I can't point the problem...
One thing that I know for sure - MY FANS NOT TICK EVERY 5 SEC LIKE THEY NEED TO...
what can be the problem in situation like this  xbox side or chip side
BTW - when the XBOX boot (after flash ecc file) he is not giving me any error (red light...) just black screen and the fan speed is equal all the time without ticking...

please help - I'm despaired.

Moochi, I'm sorry but I don't have any good answers.  I will try and help you, but I just started learning this about a week ago.  I'm not sure what causes the fans to "pulse".  I would guess it has to do with the reset line being pulsed by the chip. So to me that would indicate the chip is not glitching or your CPU_RST line is not working.

Have you installed per the diagram at x360glitch site? (http://x360glitch.com/images/Diagrams%20Fat_1280.jpg)

Have you tried programing the newest xsvf from the x360glitch website?

[Avrbuster]

AVRbuster

I have never done that modification that you suggested, never had a need. For me the key to all of this is the cpu_reset wire. On all slims and phats with RGH 2.0.

I did another RGH 2.0 today on Jasper 16MB BB using one of these chips. Resaonably good boot times. Similar to slims really.

I found that a 10R resistor didn't really achieve much difference. I have a 50R pot here that I did experiment with in 5-10R range and again not much difference. Also using the RG174 didn't make much difference. i ended up with the same as I do on slims. 42CM wire coiled. On the jasper I coil it infront of the AV port that the chip is fitted onto. There is a free area next to the BGA chip, then route the wire along the side of the heatsinks in a straight line to the topside cpu-reset point.

Also did a quich experiment to see if bridging the 'phat' point made any difference... it didn't.

I am wondering if we could create our own file for this chip. I have been dissapointed with the results when I have the cpu-reset wire 10mm away from the point it's soldered too. In theory it should be the best place to get great glitch times, ie fitting the chip underneath right next pin 2. So i am wondering if it's down to the jed file created and that the timings are based on longer wires for this point. I did read some time ago a post by blackadder suggesting that this would be the best method to get good timings and that just one parameter needed changing with a possible of 4 ish (I think) variants. Food for thought.

Ok, I will stop messing with everything else and concentrate on what works and adjusting my CPU_RST line to get better times.

I'm into modifing the xsvf file, but my coding skills are a little rusty.  Does Xlinx have an IDE?

[Avrbuster]

Just to give everyone an update, I removed the RG316 and ran in a 50cm 30AWG kynar wire.  I tested it and was getting between 30 secs and a minute and 30 sec boot times on average.  Then I trimed it to 48.5 cm and started get under 35 sec boot times.
I tried a couple of boots and got:
 1) 25 sec
 2) 34 sec
 3) 27 sec
 4) over a minute and 30 secs (the fans stopped pulsing) so I shut it off
 5) 19 sec
 6) over 2 mins so I shut it off
 7) 8 sec

So I'm really happy with that, thank-you to Tried and thebobinc for all the help.

Tired if you want some help tweaking the xsvf let me know.

Avrbuster

[tired]

Glad you got there AVRbuster. I am pretty sure you can get your timings even better, it's all about that bloody reset wire/Aerial!

We need the VHDL files in order to play with things. These are not available for RGH2.0 as that's xecuter work and they don't release such things. So only available for original RGH. Maybe worth trying in a slim then, obviously not phats as they are fine with the original hack.

[Tony_Amigozs]

after using hdmi my cold boot problem on a bb Jasper disappeared.. so there can be a difference in boot times when using av or hdmi.

[v00d00]

Hi, can somebody help with a guide for upgrading the x360glitch to RGH 2.0?

What do I need to do - Im trying to upgrade a Falcon CB5771 13604 to 14719...