Another glitch chip - X360Glitch, any opinion?

[Tony_Amigozs]

LOL I had the same issue with one of my fat consoles.. the trick was to not put the case screws on.

[Xumpy]

Ok, I finally have this slim glitching properly.

For me changing the x360glitch chip's cpu reset cap from 220 to 270pf made the glitch stable and using the alternative point worked to hold it stable when it's inside the case.

I have glitch timings with the case closed from 10 seconds until 2 minutes max.

Although the 10 seconds are very rare and most of the time it's more like a minute I'm very pleased with the result.

So conclusion: this chip is very nice but might require some tweaking...

Regards

Xump

[roowye]

Please someone can post or send me a lpt diagram to program this chip. I spent a lot of time with no result. 360gcprog never conect to the chip .. tdo seems to be stuck at 1.


Please helppppppppppp !!!!   

[miki4]

Did you put the connect your JTAG cable on the pin header in the right way?
Did you set up the correct address for your LPT port?

[Xumpy]

Did you read this threat. Try bridging R2 or R3 for programming the cpld. R3 is normally for programming but people seem to have problems booting the xbox afterwards. Though you can always remove the solder again...

Regards

[jackinthexbox]

I can confirm that some slims need to have 220pf cap replaced with 270pf cap
I usually get very good glitching with 45-50cm wire but this slim did not glitch at all. So instead of going on a vutting frenzy i tryed to replace the cap. BAM! working like a charm!

link to the cap and original thred
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=737338

[TPMJB]

This chip gave me dozens of issues when I used to use it. My advice is to spend the 5 extra bucks and use a chip other than this. It is a terrible, terrible chip. The Coolrunner has all the wires and the build quality is actually above marginal.

[Tony_Amigozs]

I have done many with this chip and they all work fine.

[jackinthexbox]

+1

[CHnorzy]

I succesfully installed the x360glitch in a falcon, a jasper512 and a zephyr.

On all 3 I had to bridge the point that is for slims and remove the bridge on R3 to get it working.

On falcon boards I had to reprogram the chip to Opus. With chips programmed for falcon it didn't even glitch after minutes.

Also I added a cap for the jasper to get rid of freezing on games.

I tried 20 of these chips and only the first one that I tried didn't work what took me a long time to realize cause I thought about bad wiring or wrong programming.

To get the Chips working for programming you need to connect the xilinx LPT Programmer on JP2 AND You need to connect 3.3V to J2 and GND to J1, cause most LPT-Ports don't give enough power for the chip.

[bugsbunny]

I think I could use some help, I've read this thread many times but I don't see what I could have missed here.

I'm trying to RGH a buddy's slim but can't get past the CPLD programming part.

I have:
- white chinese glitch chip for slims
- LPT JTAG programmer built according to GliGli's schematics (using 15cm cables, 3 1N4148 mini-melf diodes [black stripe on the CPLD, NOT LPT side], 1 1206 220Ohm resistor and 4 0603 3.3k resistors)
- Trinity on 12625
- Intel D945GCLF2 mobo with LPT1 @ 0x378

I'm not sure whether the CPLD is programmed yet, according to some posts here and in the DX forums it is, however other people in the same forums claim it's not.

So I figured I'd rather program it first.

Now I have already installed the chip in the console, meaning 3V3 and GND are already connected (confirmed with multimeter at J1/J2 and VCC/GND of JTAG port); the console is connected to a power outlet and the readings say 3.3V.

I've already flashed XeLL built with MultiBuilder 0.5 (old, I know, upgraded to 0.93 by now - and yes, I did dump the NAND beforehand and checked my 3 dumps were identical).

The console turns on but keeps hanging at a green light (which is what I would have expected from an empty chip, no glitching within 5 minutes, tried 5 times).

As for the LPT port, in the BIOS I have 4 possible modes ("Output only", "Bi-directional", "EPP" and "ECP") which all give identical results concerning the CPLD, JTAG Cable and the error message from 360gcProg v1.4.

If I solder the chip in according to the official slim diagrams on the manufacturer's site (with 50cm CPU_RST "fix") but do NOT connect the "slim" bridge (between D1A and C5) I get "TDO stuck at 1".

It says "TDO stuck at 1" too if the programmer is not connected to the LPT port, so I guess that's the default "nothing there" error message.

If I do bridge the "slim" points I get a message saying the CPLD was not powered correctly and to check the wiring, however I've done that quite a few times now.

I've also measured the voltage between LPT port pin 1 and pin 18, it's 5.02V, so afaik it should work with the normal LPT JTAG programmer.

As I said I've also tried switching the LPT port modes in the BIOS, no matter what I set I get the above error message (not powered correctly, check wiring; I forgot the exact wording).

Then I've read Xumpy's post about bridging R2 or R3; I've tried bridging R2, bridging R3 and bridging R2 and R3 (not together, separate) but the error message always stays the same.

I think I'll try programming with Xilinx Impact next as that's the only thing I could still imagine being the problem.

Also note I've already hot-glued the chip to the xbox so I'd like to keep it in there if possible, though I might have to change the wiring to take CPU_RST and POST_OUT1 to the top.

Some pictures (click to enlarge; blue wires go to NAND programmer, yellow wires to glitch chip, colorful wires to LPT JTAG CPLD programmer):



Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

EDIT: Holy $#!t, turns out I had more luck than brains today: the CHIP IS INDEED PRE-PROGRAMMED! Bought from DX around 2-3 months ago.

I thought - why not give it another try, as I don't seem to be too lucky with that LPT JTAG Programmer (desoldered that and the bridges at R2 and R3, kept the "slim" bridge). And f*** me, after 20 seconds my display was tinted in blue.



If someone happens to find the problem with my programmer (?) I'd still appreciate that for the future but at least my buddy's gonna be happy now

P.S.: If anyone wonders why I said it wouldn't glitch before - well, that's what I had thought; now that I think about it it comes to mind that my buddy was over here yesterday and I soldered all of the stuff then. We were drinking and watching old music vids, so I switched to the PC via HDMI switch; and when I switched back to check, obviously the console must have rebooted (as it usually does when losing and then gaining HDMI connectivity again); that's why I thought it didn't work. Shouldn't drink heavily while trying to glitch, even though the soldering does seem ok in retrospect so at least there's that

While I'm at it... my buddy says thanks to gligli, Tiros, cjack, Redline99, arnezami, tmbinc (who is sorely missed in the 360 scene, see you when Durango hits...) and all the others who made this possible.

EDIT2: In the meantime I had a chance to build a 14719 RGH image with MultiBuilder 0.93; I flashed it to the console, read it back, found no differences, put the xbox back together and voila - always (at least so far) boots within 10-30 seconds.
I'm tempted to call bull$#!t on the "can't put in metal cage, screws up RGH" and "you need do try 50 different caps" stories... the thin wires I used worked just fine and I was able to screw everything back together witout any problems; no cap change either, only used the 50cm CPU_RST wire (didn't feel like playing around with that so maybe that's unnecessary as well).

EDIT3: After 15 boots times have varied between 10 seconds and 2 minutes 10 seconds, 10 of those times it was below 30 seconds.

[tired]

So has anybody tried to get these chips to work with RGH 2.0 on a phat console?. If anybody has has success please post here.

[Tony_Amigozs]

as soon as I receive this chip I am gonna test rgh2 out on a stuborn Zephyr that only glitched once to xell with rgh1.

[tired]

Well I have got aJasper here that's at 14179 so it's going to need RGH 2.0. I am going to have a crack at it with one of these chips. Not 100% sure of the wiring to be honest.

From a quick look we don't use J4 on RGH 2.0. For J5 not sure which J5 we should use?, assume same as for slim?

[thebobinc]

hi all

i'm trying at the moment the RGh2 on a falcon with this chip , so far no luck , i don't know if it is gonna be even possible with the slim of phat chip , i tried to use the wiring of the slim over the fat , since when you take a look at TX install diagram for RGH2 it use the slim point of the chip , but here this model of chip is missing actually 1 point if you compare to TX chip , even if the install schematic of slim of the x360glitch look the same of the point of TX coolrunner , the C15 cap to be remove also cannot figure that one out ,

i may try to get it to work on a slim instead and use the TX coolrunner in that slim to get RGH2 working on my falcon .

will come back later or tomorrow to post feedback

edit 1: well i found out that if you use the J5A point , you get 3 led at boot automatically , if you use the J5B point , well led will keep blinking but no boot after 7 minutes,

i did tried with both of the J4 point connected to the J2B1-10 , no difference still not booting

[tired]

Well to me logic says that this chip should work with RGH 2.0.

I assume you have the diodes/caps/resistors stripped like a slim version of this board? and C5 bridged?. Also do you have a 10R resistor fitted?.

I have just dumped my console here, so will have a bash at it.

[thebobinc]

nope what i did on this one is the regular mod found earlier with the with the d3a remove , and 1 wire from is pad to the ic2 bottom leg right

i got a few left here , so i might try different mod , will post result later tomorrow

[tired]

My install of this does not work either.

Console Jasper 16MB
X360glitch - Slim Version of Board
C5 Bridged
10R resistor fitted.
Wired using slim pads for J4 and 5

Xecuter Version C file used for CPLD

Interestingly if I do not have the 10R resistor fitted then I get 3 red lights, sometimes 2. Sometimes it's instant and other times it will take 2 or 3 reset cycles.


With the resistor fitted I can hear NO reset of the console, ie no deviation of fan speed every 5 seconds or so. 

EDIT: Reprogrammed CPLD with Version B file and I can now hear reset via the fans. Still no glitch though. Maybe need to play around with the reset wire.

[Tony_Amigozs]

on xecuter they say shielded low loss wire for rst point is better. if you don't have that you can also try coax cable.

[TPMJB]

My install of this does not work either.

Console Jasper 16MB
X360glitch - Slim Version of Board
C5 Bridged
10R resistor fitted.
Wired using slim pads for J4 and 5

Xecuter Version C file used for CPLD

Interestingly if I do not have the 10R resistor fitted then I get 3 red lights, sometimes 2. Sometimes it's instant and other times it will take 2 or 3 reset cycles.


With the resistor fitted I can hear NO reset of the console, ie no deviation of fan speed every 5 seconds or so. 

EDIT: Reprogrammed CPLD with Version B file and I can now hear reset via the fans. Still no glitch though. Maybe need to play around with the reset wire.

Uh... 680pf capacitor? You still need that if it's not fitted. Between ground and...Oh $#!t. RGH 2.0 doesn't have a CPU_PLL_BYPASS point. Are you doing RGH 2.0? I wonder if Jaspers still have problems with that...

I really must emphasize that these chips are finicky, though. If using wire that creates too much noise/interference, chips wont work, or they'll stop working 1 hour in. Cat6 copper core wire does not work (or any copper-core, for that matter).