bf2itu
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Posts: 4
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« Reply #80 on: November 28, 2011, 08:02:23 AM » |
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kaputnik
Newbie
Posts: 8
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« Reply #81 on: December 01, 2011, 09:20:46 AM » |
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Hello folks, new to the forum.
So, I'm trying to get a Slim, that got its FT4R2 pad busted when its owner tried to apply the "size matters fix", up and running again.
So far I've managed to fix the pad and I'm pretty certain I succeeded with that part, got continuity between R4D4 and the cpu_rst pin on the C-mod. Now the box sounds just like mine, the fan is giving off a pulsing sound every 5-6 seconds, as opposed to before when it gave off 3-4 pulses per second. Also, the debug led I soldered onto the C-mod blinks with every pulse, which I assume is correct behaviour. I can't get it to glitch though, even with the original wire that used to work before.
I soldered the cpu_rst to the alternative pad under the X-clamp, and I do realize that this effectively will make the lead from the pin on the C-mod to the point where the signal is supposed to go longer, and that might affect things. But before I start cutting down the wire to try to find the optimal lenght, I'd like to know what resistance you guys with a fast glitching box got between the cpu_rst pin on your chip, and the R4D4 resistor. Just to know that I'm not totally off with the 0,4 ohms I got now. I'm worried that the changed resistance due to the repair might screw things up.
Oh, and if someone's interested in how I fixed the pad:
* Cleaned up the area where the FT4R2 pad used to be with contact cleaner and a q-tip.
* Scraped away the varnish on the trace that go to the alternative point under the X-clamp. I used an X-acto knife, a fiberglass pen would have been even better.
* Cleaned the exposed copper trace with contact cleaner and tinned it.
* Took a strand from a coarser wire that fitted into the minimal passthrough hole where FT4R2 used to be and tinned it.
* Bent the last ~0,5 mm of the strand 90 degrees.
* Positioned the strand, with the bend down into the hole, and the straight part above the copper trace, and taped it down with heat resistant tape to keep it in position.
* Added some solder, and pushed down the bend into the hole VERY carefully with the soldering iron.
* Soldered the connection to the copper trace in the other end.
* Cut away the excess strand, VERY carefully to avoid damaging the trace below, using an X-acto knife.
* Checked for continuity between the cpu_rst pin on the C-mod and the R4D4 resistor.
* Put a glob of hot glue on the repair to protect it.
* Checked for continuity again.
The result looks very clean. Should have thought of snapping a few pics before I put that hot glue onto the repair :/
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« Last Edit: December 01, 2011, 09:47:14 AM by kaputnik »
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backinblack
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« Reply #82 on: December 01, 2011, 11:02:52 AM » |
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I used trace to ft4r2 and it is close to another trace under the board. Then ran wire from that to r4d4 on top of board. No more 0032 and error as it bypassed the lifted pad. Booted up, ran normally. It seems you went to the hole in bottom of board. Did you consider you may have soldered to something else that was exposed? Also some small points around ft4r2; solder strand touching? I promised myself no hot glue until I confirmed something worked 100%. As that caused my lifted ft4r2 point:-( Try my fix I described. Consider hole as destroyed and go around it. Then on top, maybe use r4d4 to glitch. Flux, tin/flux wires, set in spot, maybe tape to hold wires, then little touch of iron with a tad bit of solder. Anything in hole, or around it is bypassed. Eliminates anything you may not see. I fixed mine and sold it to somebody not looking to glitch. Worked perfectly, ft4r2 straight through to r4d4, so my ethic was still clean looking. After it started up, tested; hot glue. I was a barbarian with soldering iron but it is easy to get better. I took apart an old dvd drive and tinned holes, removed resistors and capacitors, desoldered, etc. Google pcb repair and see some seriously hard jobs to repair, lol. Oh, single strand wire that is small gauge works. I enjoy challenges:-) Hope my idea helps. |
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Oggy
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« Reply #84 on: December 04, 2011, 05:53:39 PM » |
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Got a slim here from a customer, it's f***ed.
R3B15 was dead, replaced with a 33ohms resisitor from a Xenon (I belive it to be the correct value)
He also f***ed up Post_Out1 and the VIA under the heatsink ( the trace has been pulled too)
I'll get photo's in the morning.
Not sure if post_out1 is causing it to not boot, has anyone encountered a slim with a dead post_out1 and know if it bots with it killed, I assume it wont considering it goes to the GPU/CPU after the top side via.
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Valfore
Newbie
Posts: 5
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« Reply #85 on: December 05, 2011, 05:01:54 AM » |
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 All right, I used my mad paint skillz little. Is this the way it needs to be done if the original bypass point got ripped off? Btw, I bought some capacitors for optimizing. Thank you in advance! Ok i've got all the points good, but i messed up the original CPU_PLL_BYPASS Point and i'm not quite following the how-to for the alternative point This is like in this diagram above?, or do i not even have to solder the wire back to the glitch chip? |
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Oggy
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« Reply #86 on: December 20, 2011, 01:29:58 PM » |
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I received a 360 with CPU_PLL_Bypass dead. He also butchered the resistor  I believe it to be 10k - Could anyone confirm (Falcon) My points appear to differ slightly, but I'm sure this is the correct point.  I've soldered this -> 10k ohms resistor -> pas where old resistor was. I get 0110 or 0022. Anyone else done this repair that can offer some guidance, not sure if I've gone wrong somewhere. Regards. |
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playonlcd
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« Reply #87 on: February 18, 2012, 06:47:21 PM » |
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I have a Jasper in this situation to. After replacing the 10K resitor, no go, still rrod 0022. Any ideas where to debug? I received a 360 with CPU_PLL_Bypass dead. He also butchered the resistor I believe it to be 10k - Could anyone confirm (Falcon) I've soldered this -> 10k ohms resistor -> pas where old resistor was. I get 0110 or 0022. Anyone else done this repair that can offer some guidance, not sure if I've gone wrong somewhere. Regards. |
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Oggy
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« Reply #88 on: February 19, 2012, 06:07:55 AM » |
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Tiros posted in another thread the the input protection diode was likely shot. So the console is fubar'd
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hakunamatatapl
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« Reply #89 on: February 24, 2012, 09:21:52 AM » |
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Hello.
Can somebody confirm that cpu_pll_bypass in fat is going from cpu throught the via in motherboard to the 10k resisotr and from it to gnd and thats all ? I have jasper 512 witch both via connections fry. I solder wire from line very close to cpu (not from via, its destroyed ) to the resistor on botom side. Stock dash boots and working but glitch is not working. Chip cannot assert the line, i think meybe linke goes somewhere too.
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beyond666
Newbie
Posts: 7
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« Reply #90 on: February 28, 2012, 06:32:45 PM » |
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How many ohms have this resistor? The one that arrow is pointing. |
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galo911
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« Reply #91 on: February 28, 2012, 10:20:37 PM » |
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10 k ohms
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Parismessios3
Newbie
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« Reply #92 on: March 02, 2012, 04:58:39 PM » |
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Hello, my cousin try to read the NAND of his xbox (trinity) with cygnos, and he destroyed some pads. Does anybody how where are the traces to repair this? Here is a picture:  |
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« Last Edit: March 02, 2012, 05:07:34 PM by Parismessios3 »
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beyond666
Newbie
Posts: 7
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« Reply #93 on: March 04, 2012, 07:13:08 PM » |
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A few days ago my console was normally work (RGH chip installed and Freestyle Dash was working). After assembly back housing of Xbox, FSD refuse to boot.  When i connect multimeter with GND (ground) and this point, there is zero (zero Ohm or if you like zero volts). Is my CPU_PLL_BYPASS dead? I have exactly situation like here on picture.  |
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beeemw
Newbie
Posts: 5
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« Reply #94 on: March 05, 2012, 12:24:41 PM » |
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Measure please values in all places of the soldering. I want to verify. Xbox phat.
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« Last Edit: March 05, 2012, 12:29:31 PM by beeemw »
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beyond666
Newbie
Posts: 7
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« Reply #95 on: March 07, 2012, 09:36:17 AM » |
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Measure please values in all places of the soldering. I want to verify. Xbox phat.
SOLVED: cpu dead  No connection with any point around CPU. |
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playonlcd
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« Reply #96 on: March 21, 2012, 09:35:39 AM » |
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Tiros posted in another thread the the input protection diode was likely shot. So the console is fubar'd
Which diode? Internal CPU diode ? |
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geranimoo
Newbie
Posts: 1
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« Reply #97 on: May 07, 2012, 02:53:26 PM » |
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hi everyone i need some help i have slim xbox with rgh last night I broke the solder in the picture, i try solder again but i solder doesnt work on the point.Do you have another chance to solder the ground? URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/690/fdscf1107.jpg/]  Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/img] |
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backinblack
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« Reply #98 on: May 07, 2012, 08:00:03 PM » |
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hi everyone i need some help i have slim xbox with rgh last night I broke the solder in the picture, i try solder again but i solder doesnt work on the point.Do you have another chance to solder the ground? URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/690/fdscf1107.jpg/] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/img] On top of board, it is in this thread. Instead of posting only your issue try reading. 5 page thread; needs some scraping on top but you can see the spots together. |
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