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Author Topic: MT1335 MX/WB unlocking  (Read 74959 times)
halito2009
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« Reply #420 on: August 19, 2011, 07:40:53 AM »

halito2009: Could you please dump the whole OFW 1071? It isn't present in the file you uploaded, only the dummy is there. - THANK YOU! Smiley

solo son archivos sueltos. el fw completo todavía no extraigo


http://www.megaupload.com/?d=U4TYVBRI
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saas474
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« Reply #421 on: August 19, 2011, 08:39:44 AM »

Drive 0225
unlock (drill method)
flash
lock
what is the best way for unlocking it again if needed to flash another CFW or Orig ??
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nirbeltran
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« Reply #422 on: August 19, 2011, 09:11:15 AM »

after doing a few drill hacking i have a couple of questions :
first i have more then 5 drives that has lost the eject or having a strong and fast open of the drive , then close and then nothing . have i killed the drives ? is it because of drilling too deep ?
second question - if the resistor and the 3.3v is not needed wouldnt it be the same as lifiting trace of the fifth leg from the upper right corner ? thats where the trace we are cutting goes to isnt it ?
thx
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xfreaks
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« Reply #423 on: August 19, 2011, 09:46:20 AM »

I'm still confuse, anyone can explain what is the different between dummy and full dump fw?
sorry for this noobs question.
thanks
« Last Edit: August 19, 2011, 09:52:23 AM by xfreaks » Logged
jenipapo
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« Reply #424 on: August 19, 2011, 10:36:51 AM »

I'm still confuse, anyone can explain what is the different between dummy and full dump fw?
sorry for this noobs question.
thanks
Dummy = some decrypted parts of the FW (You can´t flash it directly to the drive because it is not a complete code)
Full dump = it is the complete crypted code (you can flash it to the hardware and it will work)
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xfreaks
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« Reply #425 on: August 19, 2011, 10:41:40 AM »

I'm still confuse, anyone can explain what is the different between dummy and full dump fw?
sorry for this noobs question.
thanks
Dummy = some decrypted parts of the FW (You can´t flash it directly to the drive because it is not a complete code)
Full dump = it is the complete crypted code (you can flash it to the hardware and it will work)

so why most of liteon drive dump fw with JF is dummy.bin?
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k0mpresd
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« Reply #426 on: August 19, 2011, 11:17:31 AM »

Drive 0225
unlock (drill method)
flash
lock
what is the best way for unlocking it again if needed to flash another CFW or Orig ??

q-tip dipped in alcohol.
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miskan
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« Reply #427 on: August 19, 2011, 11:42:43 AM »

ok,
now erase your drive and make it blank.
disconnect everything including usb pro, power supply for dvd drive
and after some time, conect all and write your firmware by doing intro/dev id to enter vendor mode.
note you will go immediately on vendor mode when your drive is blank, no need to mpower cycle.
i think this may help you.
this is how i do when i am stuck on same positions as yours but with vt6421.

That's what i've been doing minus the power off after erase. Tried that on via, ich7 and usbpro, but no success, same result. Except that I still needed to power cycle after erase during intro. I think I've cut one wire too many during drilling...
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xboxd
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« Reply #428 on: August 19, 2011, 02:58:26 PM »

I'm still confuse, anyone can explain what is the different between dummy and full dump fw?
sorry for this noobs question.
thanks
Dummy = some decrypted parts of the FW (You can´t flash it directly to the drive because it is not a complete code)
Full dump = it is the complete crypted code (you can flash it to the hardware and it will work)

so why most of liteon drive dump fw with JF is dummy.bin?
The drive has to be writeable to make a fulldump, if its for example a stock 0225 you can't make a fulldump. Only the dummy.bin.
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phonsey
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« Reply #429 on: August 19, 2011, 08:55:10 PM »

where can i buy a replacement pcb or WT1335WE controller! anyone here have any for sell ?
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misterfly
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« Reply #430 on: August 20, 2011, 12:37:52 AM »

where can i buy a replacement pcb or WT1335WE controller! anyone here have any for sell ?
contact me in pm im hawe all avaiable all you required  Cool
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morenomdz
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« Reply #431 on: August 20, 2011, 02:03:41 PM »

I got three pcbs here that are not respoding well, I did unlock these just normal with dremel + 105 bit(0,8mm), they did unlock fine but I had to go a bit deeper.

To intro on these, I have to power cycle, but these are not writing for good... On Lizard they say it write the cfw normal but the drive doesn't respond after it(the xbox goes E65 if I turn it on with the drive plugged) and on JF it goes status 80, I power cycle, it kicks in but when I try to write it fails during the write verification.

Any ideas?
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glaze83
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« Reply #432 on: August 20, 2011, 06:20:23 PM »

erase it, disconnect it for a minute, then intro and write
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halito2009
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« Reply #433 on: August 21, 2011, 02:15:40 PM »

  aquí podemos ver como solucionar apertura de bandeja  con resistencia de 62 Ohms también señalo la resistencia R1 y condensador C6 los cuales se remplaza en caso de haber daño de signos de muerte en la tarjeta lógica solo remplaza esto y listo en los problemas  de no funcionar rotor estoy trabajando pero creo deriva de una resistencia abierta daño ocasionado por perforación del integrado




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leorimolo
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« Reply #434 on: August 21, 2011, 02:58:33 PM »

Here we can see how to solve the eject problem. Using a a 62ohms resistor, and replacing the R1 resistance and condensator C6 signaled below are replaced in case of signs of death in the logic board.
  aquí podemos ver como solucionar apertura de bandeja  con resistencia de 62 Ohms también señalo la resistencia R1 y condensador C6 los cuales se remplaza en caso de haber daño de signos de muerte en la tarjeta lógica solo remplaza esto y listo en los problemas  de no funcionar rotor estoy trabajando pero creo deriva de una resistencia abierta daño ocasionado por perforación del integrado





Gracias por la informacion, te lo traduje para que te respondan.
I translated it for you guys, still awfull uncoherent from my part tho >_<
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halito2009
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« Reply #435 on: August 21, 2011, 03:15:13 PM »

Here we can see how to solve the eject problem. Using a a 62ohms resistor, and replacing the R1 resistance and condensator C6 signaled below are replaced in case of signs of death in the logic board.
  aquí podemos ver como solucionar apertura de bandeja  con resistencia de 62 Ohms también señalo la resistencia R1 y condensador C6 los cuales se remplaza en caso de haber daño de signos de muerte en la tarjeta lógica solo remplaza esto y listo en los problemas  de no funcionar rotor estoy trabajando pero creo deriva de una resistencia abierta daño ocasionado por perforación del integrado





Gracias por la informacion, te lo traduje para que te respondan.
I translated it for you guys, still awfull uncoherent from my part tho >_<

ok bien
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jackinthexbox
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« Reply #436 on: August 22, 2011, 09:47:04 AM »

Bump my question:
So as i understand 3v and resistor is not needed at all?
Why was it sayed we need them anyway?
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miragui
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« Reply #437 on: August 22, 2011, 10:53:11 AM »

No wonder he needs an eject fix the chip is not even marked for drilling.
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Hattori
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« Reply #438 on: August 22, 2011, 09:09:44 PM »

Hello all ! I have done 3 of 5 drives working with this method (thanks to geremia! ) but other 2 drives have motor spin problem ;=(  is there any way to fix spin problem ?
« Last Edit: August 22, 2011, 09:13:16 PM by Hattori » Logged
modguru
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« Reply #439 on: August 23, 2011, 12:42:52 AM »

if you mean the motor that spining the disk no . for the moment there is not solution . buy  another replase pcb. or a new mt1335we ic , and replase it . 
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