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MastaG
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« on: March 19, 2010, 01:49:56 PM » |
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I thought I'd mention it here since there are quite some E79 threads. I seem to have fixed the E79 boot problem on a few Zephyrs. In this thread http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=14551.0 I asked which diodes were faster and according to Tiros and Blackaddr the BAT41 ones were better. And you guys were right  I've used this diagram:  I'm using BAT41 diodes (the blue ones) and instead of the jumper wire I use a 330 Ohm resistor. They both boot fine all of the time even when powering from the wireless controller and also when they are connected with hdmi cable instead of component or vga. So for the ones still having problems, try to give it a shot and be sure to solder clean and use a glue-gun or electric tape to seal everything off. Hope it helps 
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I understand. You found paradise in America, you had a good trade, you made a good living. The police protected you and there were courts of law. And you didn't need a friend like me. But, uh, now you come to me, and you say: "Don Corleone, give me justice." But you don't ask with respect. You don't offer friendship. You don't even think to call me Godfather. Instead, you come into my house on the day my daughter is to be married, and you ask me to do murder for money.
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bidomo
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« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2010, 02:23:56 PM » |
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Not that I'm tired of the E79 but main configuration, yes, I'm gonna give it a go...
Will report back.
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m3ntal
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« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2010, 03:20:47 PM » |
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Thanks MastaG! That's awesome news about HDMI. I'll pick up some BAT41s and replace the 1N4148s soonish. I literally put my 360 back together last night for the first time in months, need to game a bit before soldering again.  Good news, good news.
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BoXXDr
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« Reply #3 on: March 19, 2010, 11:20:59 PM » |
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I have suspected all along bat41 diodes were a better choice. I only use BAT41 now. I also have found great improvments by using shorter wire runs. That wire running to the front panel is way too long and can pick up interference. Here is a pic of how i am installing my diodes on Falcon. (at the time of taking the pic i was not using bat41 yet) I am pretty sure these alternate points work on other HDMI motherboard revisions too. 
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n00bpwner360
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« Reply #4 on: March 19, 2010, 11:27:45 PM » |
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Why is the 20AWG wire necessary?
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yeah lowering the default reading speed from 12x to let's say 5x, would really let GTA4 (or any of your games) benefit from way less popups and loading times.
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BoXXDr
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« Reply #5 on: March 19, 2010, 11:44:55 PM » |
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Why is the 20AWG wire necessary?
LOL, I didn't have any small shrink wrap left so i stripped some insulation off a peice of 20awg wire and slide it over the diode's lead to protect from shorts in that area. I didn't think the other diode needed any protection as it was far enough away from components for me to be confident it wont ever short out on anything. I will probably update this photo next time i do one to show both BAT41 diodes and some proper shrink tube will be used.
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MastaG
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« Reply #6 on: March 20, 2010, 02:25:24 PM » |
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That really looks nice  I have to admit one of my Zephyrs gave me a E79 this afternoon, so I guess the smc code is kinda buggy for this board. But using BAT41 diodes definitely improved the situation I'm going to try it on the back of the mobo just like your picture. btw doesn't it help to use a 330 ohm resistor between 4 and 7 instead of a jumper wire?
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I understand. You found paradise in America, you had a good trade, you made a good living. The police protected you and there were courts of law. And you didn't need a friend like me. But, uh, now you come to me, and you say: "Don Corleone, give me justice." But you don't ask with respect. You don't offer friendship. You don't even think to call me Godfather. Instead, you come into my house on the day my daughter is to be married, and you ask me to do murder for money.
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BoXXDr
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« Reply #7 on: March 20, 2010, 02:30:52 PM » |
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btw doesn't it help to use a 330 ohm resistor between 4 and 7 instead of a jumper wire?
After reading posts from experts that understand exactly how this hack works they have insisted that a simple wire jump is the best solution. Still it's hard to argue with all the people that have had good results with the 330ohm ressitor. If using bat41 and my extra short wiring technique don't make it work then by all mean try it and post your results here. I wish i understood more about the signals that are going through these connections.
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MastaG
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« Reply #8 on: March 23, 2010, 03:29:43 PM » |
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I had the exact same setup as the picture but using a 330ohm resistor instead of a jumper wire. But my console suffered from 3rlod and E74 so I had to reflow it. During the reflowing I accidentally popped off R2P12 due to the stress of the metal pin on the small resistor (that ruined my day). So now I run a wire from my BAT41 on point 2 to the other point on the bottom of the mainboard (the one under the rf-board socket near the edge of the board). However it seems the console fails to boot without R2P12 in place so I cant test it. Can anyone tell me the resistance of R2P12? R2P13 seems to be 8.22 kilo ohms.
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I understand. You found paradise in America, you had a good trade, you made a good living. The police protected you and there were courts of law. And you didn't need a friend like me. But, uh, now you come to me, and you say: "Don Corleone, give me justice." But you don't ask with respect. You don't offer friendship. You don't even think to call me Godfather. Instead, you come into my house on the day my daughter is to be married, and you ask me to do murder for money.
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MastaG
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« Reply #9 on: March 23, 2010, 04:55:51 PM » |
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It seems R2P12 has a special function for booting the console. And since I wiped it from the board it will boot into E79. Also the RF-board leds don't blink anymore. I guess it needs to be replaced then. The problem however is that the solder wont stick to it anymore. I know the right side of the resistor can be connected to the jtag point on the RF-board or the point on the bottom of the board for the RF-board connector. However I can't find a alternative point for the left side of the resistor   Can anyone point me to some alternative point for the left side of R2P12 and tell me what resistance I need?
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I understand. You found paradise in America, you had a good trade, you made a good living. The police protected you and there were courts of law. And you didn't need a friend like me. But, uh, now you come to me, and you say: "Don Corleone, give me justice." But you don't ask with respect. You don't offer friendship. You don't even think to call me Godfather. Instead, you come into my house on the day my daughter is to be married, and you ask me to do murder for money.
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BoXXDr
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« Reply #10 on: March 23, 2010, 05:11:08 PM » |
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R2P12 is showing as 9.6K ohm (that is while it is still attached to the board.) I suspect a 10k would work fine.
You can't find a alternate point because from there it goes under the southbridge. There is a tiny VIA point above and next to the right solder pad for R2P12. If you have a nice fiberglass brush you might be able to clean it up and solder to it. Use flux paste to help it stick but make sure you clean it very good after. (especially if you are using acid flux!!)
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MastaG
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« Reply #11 on: March 24, 2010, 02:58:00 AM » |
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Damn, I was already afraid you were going to say something like that since the southbridge is on top of it. I guess I'm going to buy some better equipment then and redo everything. (the weller im using now is a bit too powerfull for these kinda things). Going to get the 10k resistors, a fiberglass pen and a magnifying glass. EDIT: Can this little hole be used if I carefully scratch it out? 
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« Last Edit: March 24, 2010, 03:55:27 AM by MastaG »
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I understand. You found paradise in America, you had a good trade, you made a good living. The police protected you and there were courts of law. And you didn't need a friend like me. But, uh, now you come to me, and you say: "Don Corleone, give me justice." But you don't ask with respect. You don't offer friendship. You don't even think to call me Godfather. Instead, you come into my house on the day my daughter is to be married, and you ask me to do murder for money.
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BoXXDr
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« Reply #12 on: March 24, 2010, 08:33:08 AM » |
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Can this little hole be used if I carefully scratch it out?  Yes that is where the signal goes. If you clean it up with a fibreglass brush and if there is still some copper there you will be able to solder to it again.
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MastaG
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« Reply #13 on: April 06, 2010, 07:29:17 AM » |
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Can this little hole be used if I carefully scratch it out?  Yes that is where the signal goes. If you clean it up with a fibreglass brush and if there is still some copper there you will be able to solder to it again. Ok I got myself a nice fiberglass-pen, scratched out the via and soldered a wire onto it. (those fiberglass-pens are really nice btw). I attached a 10K Ohm resistor to it and connected it onto the bottom point of the mainboard (the one used for alternative jtag point for the rf-board-point). Like this:  For the jtag wires I just followed everything from this picture:  Now when I boot my console, the rf-board lights won't light up and it'll go straight to E79. I double checked the soldering and everything checks out. R2P13 gives me ~5K Ohm so maybe 10K is a bit too much for R2P12?
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I understand. You found paradise in America, you had a good trade, you made a good living. The police protected you and there were courts of law. And you didn't need a friend like me. But, uh, now you come to me, and you say: "Don Corleone, give me justice." But you don't ask with respect. You don't offer friendship. You don't even think to call me Godfather. Instead, you come into my house on the day my daughter is to be married, and you ask me to do murder for money.
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