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Author Topic: Custom XBOX360 case based on my audio components (Work in progress!)  (Read 6579 times)
threesixtyuser
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« on: February 23, 2010, 10:52:19 AM »

A while back I was looking at my TV cabinet and found my 360 a bit of an ugly duckling compared to my audio components (all Sony, MD, CD, DVD/HDD-r, Suround Receiver).

I also noticed that with some creativity the metal casing inside the360 should fit my CD player housing without any physical modifications accept for having to replace the eject and connect button (matter of soldering a few wires).
Next to that I think I might have to raise the DVD player a few mm's, but that should be about it regarding the internals.

The face/front needs quite some modding though, but should be doable.

With this in the back of my head I started looking for donor materials and found a 2nd hand Sony CDP-XE220 (roughly same housing as my CDP-XE520) for only € 10,- and bought it (not in yet).

Also ordered a cheap Joytech Xbox360 faceplate for the donor power button so I can keep my original case intact.

Because both aren't in yet I couldn't resist making a sketch of what it could look like after some cutting, fitting and a lot of filling with e.g. Plasto from Revell:



Bottom is the player I bought (actual pic of the site I found it at) top is my concept sketch.

Hope to have my goods in soon so I can start working on it, will keep you posted ofcourse!
« Last Edit: March 02, 2010, 03:30:47 AM by threesixtyuser » Logged
neonpolaris
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« Reply #1 on: February 23, 2010, 02:52:16 PM »

Looks like fun, except for fabbing that USB door just right.  I can't wait to see how it turns out.
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KrK
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« Reply #2 on: February 23, 2010, 03:16:56 PM »

Definitely looks like this should be quite an interesting project, will be fun to see how it progresses Smiley

- KrK
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threesixtyuser
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« Reply #3 on: February 23, 2010, 04:28:57 PM »

Looks like fun, except for fabbing that USB door just right.  I can't wait to see how it turns out.
Hehe, I'm more worried about the power button than the USB door, cutting and heating to make it straight instead of rounded should do the trick.

But I'm really gonna take my time on the front panel, as this is the major part of the mod. And if it doesn't work out not much is lost except for the effort because the player cost me 10 euro's and the faceplate 5. But I do have quite some years of pc casemodding experience and reckon I should be able to get it right.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2010, 04:34:37 PM by threesixtyuser » Logged
utar
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« Reply #4 on: February 23, 2010, 06:29:42 PM »


Looks very impressive.

You probably just want to give some thought to cooling to make sure the case does not restrict airflow.  Also are you going to extend the ports at the back in some way, or is the idea to just have a dummy front?



Utar


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threesixtyuser
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« Reply #5 on: February 24, 2010, 02:44:55 AM »

I'll add cooling slots, holes or whatever seems best to the case ofcourse! Next to that I want to add some Extra cooling.

I'm not going to extend the back connections, do want to look into changing the housings depth to fit the internals, but not sure if I will actually do that, need the CD-player to propperly look into that.

After I get the player I can figure out some more specific details about what I've got to- and can do. I'm gonna start with the frontpanel and work my way up to modding the case itself.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2010, 04:40:40 AM by threesixtyuser » Logged
ultra64
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« Reply #6 on: February 24, 2010, 08:04:19 AM »

That would look nice indeed... but I have no idea how you're going to do that.
Don't take this as discouragement or anything, it's not at all meant to be, but I'd be really impressed if you pulled that off. Wouldn't it be far, far easier (and considering the amount of work modding the case would take even cheaper) to just have the case custom built?
Or do you have access to CNC machinery? How do you remove the buttons? Or make the MS logo in the top left?
Or is the sketch more of an 'artists impression'?

I haven't done much modding, I'm playing around with a uATX Atom board w/ 12" screen and PSU inside a 360 case and am planning to build a N64p, both of which don't require much but a Dremel and a soldering iron (and some plastic molding)... but this seems monstrous in comparison.

Good luck and please keep us posted Wink I'm especially interested in the button removal and 360 button relocation part and how you'll make them fit esthetically.
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threesixtyuser
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« Reply #7 on: February 24, 2010, 09:12:56 AM »

Short and very rough workaround for the front panel:

  • Remove the buttons: Cut around them Tongue
  • Replace the buttons (only eject button needs replacement, connect button is one of the CD player's current buttons (time) in the same place): Cut a hole where the button has to go the same size as it's cut out, take the Cut out button and glue it in it's new place
  • Filling the unneeded holes: Glue a sheet of plastic behind/in them and fill the holes with filler
  • New power button: Cut it from the donor faceplate, cut a hole in the CD player's  front and glue the donor button into it
  • Same for the USB panel, only this needs flattening first
  • Fill al gaps around the replaced switches etc. with filler
  • Sand, refill, sand, refill etc. till the result is smooth
  • spray paint basecoat with a filling primer to reveal irregularities
  • Sand, refill, sand, refill etc. till the result is smooth
  • spray paint color

et voilla Wink

The microsoft logo I'm hoping to find on some old Microsoft device, found a pin on ebay, but not sure if it's the right size and find it too expesive.

The button text's etc. will be made with RC Model laserprinter decal paper

p.s. faceplate arrived today and got an e-mail that the CD-player will be send out today
« Last Edit: February 25, 2010, 04:51:59 AM by threesixtyuser » Logged
threesixtyuser
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« Reply #8 on: February 26, 2010, 06:07:07 AM »

Got my CD player yesterday and am going to start modding tomorrow I think.

The extra space inside the housing I want to use for internalizing a 3,5" hardrive, but I have one question out of curiosity about feeding it 12V regarding the following pic:


http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/PWRConnector.jpg

Does anyone know if the 3 12V points are seperate powerlines form the PSU? I reckon they are. And if so, has anyone ever looked in to which one of the 3 has the least load on it and thus would be best to use for powering additional devices?

Basically what i want to do is solder a Molex cable to the and 12V points and reckon it doesn't really matter which point I use, but if anyone knows I reckon it's allways best to use the connection with the most "spare" load.
« Last Edit: February 26, 2010, 10:41:43 AM by threesixtyuser » Logged
HiTec
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« Reply #9 on: February 26, 2010, 09:27:18 AM »

As you can see, they are all soldered to the same big "line". Just like those GND spots. You can use any of them, it doesn´t matter. Nice project btw!
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threesixtyuser
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« Reply #10 on: February 26, 2010, 10:40:49 AM »

OUCH! Thx a lot  Angry now I feel like a real dumb #$$ for not noticing that Grin Wink
« Last Edit: February 26, 2010, 10:42:28 AM by threesixtyuser » Logged
threesixtyuser
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« Reply #11 on: March 01, 2010, 05:46:05 AM »

I've started working on the project last saturday, here are some pictures of the progress:

Disassembling the CD-player:



Disassembling the console and first test fit:



Cutting the excess plastic from the inside of the frontpanel:



Cutting the faceplate for donor parts:



After this (I know, should have waited Wink) I took a good look at the CD player's original skip button and figured that I could mod this as power button including ROL (didn't think of this in my design because I simply yhought it wouldn't be possible) and thus preserve the original looks of the player even more.

What a waste of the faceplate (eventhough it was only € 5,-), but for my plan I need the original powerbutton anyway.

First I drilled a hole in the right place for the button and test fitted it (The hole looks kinda rough, but that's just curled up paint and I can't be bothered with sanding it yet beause the entire front panel will need a lot of filling and sanding anyway):



Next I disassembled it, cut out the back and made an acryllic one.



Because the original button is larger in diameter than the new one I need to make some sort of an "adapter" to guide the light to the smaller button.

For this I took out a scrap piece of acryllic and started working on it with my table drill/router (it's actually not really made for this kind of small work, but as the part will be invissible in the end it did the trick for me:

I did everything three times in case something should go wrong (it's faster to do each step three times than having to do them all over again afterwards) and as you can see in the 6th pic. I'm glad I did Wink




And here's the part after some minor last minute changes, sanding and pollishing (with toothpaste), still needs some more work, but roughly it's finished



Click here for a slideshow of all of the images

and here for the picture gallery

Till next time!
« Last Edit: March 01, 2010, 07:21:30 AM by threesixtyuser » Logged
miragui
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« Reply #12 on: March 01, 2010, 07:28:46 AM »

It seems like there's even space to fit the power brick in that case.
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threesixtyuser
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« Reply #13 on: March 01, 2010, 08:13:23 AM »

It would, but I want to use the extra space for extra cooling and a 3,5" harddrive

Something different: Does a USB-Hub on the front ports work? Have non lying around to try this.
« Last Edit: March 01, 2010, 09:22:09 AM by threesixtyuser » Logged
ddxcb
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« Reply #14 on: March 01, 2010, 04:34:42 PM »

It would, but I want to use the extra space for extra cooling and a 3,5" harddrive

Something different: Does a USB-Hub on the front ports work? Have non lying around to try this.
Yes as long the hub is getting power but ill do is either get some usb male and female connectors and mount them or solder the usb wires to the 360 MB.
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threesixtyuser
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« Reply #15 on: March 02, 2010, 03:30:28 AM »

hmm, so only hubs with a seperate psu work Sad too bad.

Did some minor work last night:



Slideshow

Gallery

As you can see I:
  • removed the excess plastic from the original cd-player button
  • taped the 4 pieces of the acrylic back with aluminum tape (a little trick I've used before in one of my casemods to reduce the amount of "light bleeding" from the panel) this was needed because as much light as possible has to go into the four middle sections which will be visible, without the tape these hardly lit up while testing
  • glued the transparant back I made for the original cd-player button on to the center sections of the acrylic back so I could clamp the switch housing on it
  • glued some tiny pieces of plastic in the back in the slots between the center sections so light wont spread from one to another
  • modified the original power button and messed it up Sad should have been cross shaped, but one of the pieces broke off while cutting, I'm going to look into making an alternative myself eventhough this still works
  • tested the buttin and it works!

p.s. before people start about it: Don't worry about small scratches etc, the whole thing will be filled, smoothed and painted when finished Wink
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KrK
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« Reply #16 on: March 02, 2010, 12:43:30 PM »

Nice work, it seems things are progressing rather well Smiley Shame about the original power button, but at least faceplates are pretty cheap to replace these days if the alternative button isn't a viable option.

Regarding the USB hub, would it not be possible to power the hub using a 5V source from the 360 motherboard? I'm not a hardware person, but I wouldn't of thought a USB hub would be that much of a power drain on the rest of the motherboard components?

- KrK
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Coniger12
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« Reply #17 on: March 02, 2010, 08:21:40 PM »

I was going to suggest what KrK said, but if that isn't possible, use one of the older psu (higher watt rating) and draw power from there.
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threesixtyuser
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« Reply #18 on: March 03, 2010, 03:52:21 AM »

Nice work, it seems things are progressing rather well Smiley Shame about the original power button, but at least faceplates are pretty cheap to replace these days if the alternative button isn't a viable option.

......

- KrK

Thx! Things are progressing indeed, but not as fast as I'd like because the power button takes a lot of trial and error to get it right (sometimes I even wished I would have staid with my original design Wink).

I've spend quite some time last night trying different types of plastics for creating my own switch back and found that a DVD box does the trick (was the only material that didn't break and bends back into it's original shape very well), made a test piece and I think it'll do the trick. Too bad about the faceplate, but hey $#!+ happens Wink

......

Regarding the USB hub, would it not be possible to power the hub using a 5V source from the 360 motherboard? I'm not a hardware person, but I wouldn't of thought a USB hub would be that much of a power drain on the rest of the motherboard components?

- KrK
I was going to suggest what KrK said, but if that isn't possible, use one of the older psu (higher watt rating) and draw power from there.
I reckon the back USB port is powered because I read that hubs with no external PSU work on it (still can't test it though). If so this means I could also just use the back port for it and run the cable through the case to the front.

Another option would be to just extend the two front ports by cutting a cable and use this to route them to a couple of chassis parts mounted on a piece of breadboard.
« Last Edit: March 03, 2010, 03:54:50 AM by threesixtyuser » Logged
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« Reply #19 on: March 03, 2010, 10:14:43 AM »

Nice to se some cool mods to get shape here Cheesy Good luck with your mod Smiley
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