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Author Topic: Falcon JTAG E79  (Read 1778 times)
AmrH
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« on: February 08, 2010, 02:12:27 PM »

I've Jtag'd my falcon, and I can never get it to boot xell or XBR. It always gives me E79. The wiring is perfect (Checked with Multimeter); however, I soldered the Diode to point 6 instead of point 2 on the RF panel (Checked with a multimeter, and both are the same). The flash is perfect as I've read back what I wrote and both are identical. I've tried with the 330 ohm resistor and with a bridge. I've tried to inject the KV to Xell. Tried everything! And yes I've removed the power cable for 2 minutes after flashing Xell. I just want to flash Xell, and will flash XBR through Linux.

Note 1: Capacitors C1F1 and C1F2 are damaged.

Note 2: DB1F1 and UTF2 are both fried, so I soldered to the track; however, I cut the track by mistake. The track is no longer connected to DB1F1. I've managed to solder the diode to the track later on, and checked with a multimeter against the tiny point to the left that is in the image where it shows that it's an alternative to DB1F1.

Note 3: My Cb is 5766.
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Arakon
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« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2010, 03:27:59 PM »

Who says they are the same? They may very well be pulled to gnd when powered off. That would show as a connection on a multimeter, but they'd still be totally different lines when powered up. You use random different points and then wonder if it doesn't work?
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AmrH
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« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2010, 05:58:12 PM »

Who says they are the same? They may very well be pulled to gnd when powered off. That would show as a connection on a multimeter, but they'd still be totally different lines when powered up. You use random different points and then wonder if it doesn't work?

I didn't try random points, I found it here: http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r167/XxEclispedMoonxX/JTAG_Hack/SPI__JTAG_diagram_zephyr-falcon-opu.png .

Now I've connected it to point 2 on the RF Panel, and still gives me E79. I've checked the rest of the wiring, and everything reads as it should. Are there any more possible solutions?

FYI, I've tried once with a bridge, and another with a 330 ohm resistor. Still the same error. I've also tried booting without the DVD, and then tried by connecting it and powering the console through the Eject button.

Any solution?
« Last Edit: February 08, 2010, 06:07:28 PM by AmrH » Logged
ReverseAffect
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« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2010, 11:28:11 PM »

what a hack.....
first fix your problems

EXPLAIN ALL THIS ...and wonder why your not getting nowhere...
Note 1: Capacitors C1F1 and C1F2 are damaged. Huh what,do you think these are spare parts?
I've tried to inject the KV to Xell???
explain how you checked the diodes to see if your connection is right?

you did read the XBR readme and understand everything right? EXPLAIN YOUR STEPS.....

did your console even do anything when you flashed the orig nand copy back....
or you haven't even though of this?

you created a can of worms ,my friend...good luck....
« Last Edit: February 08, 2010, 11:36:36 PM by ReverseAffect » Logged

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AmrH
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« Reply #4 on: February 09, 2010, 12:10:14 AM »

what a hack.....
first fix your problems

EXPLAIN ALL THIS ...and wonder why your not getting nowhere...
Note 1: Capacitors C1F1 and C1F2 are damaged. Huh what,do you think these are spare parts?
I've tried to inject the KV to Xell???
explain how you checked the diodes to see if your connection is right?

you did read the XBR readme and understand everything right? EXPLAIN YOUR STEPS.....

did your console even do anything when you flashed the orig nand copy back....
or you haven't even though of this?

you created a can of worms ,my friend...good luck....

The capacitors were damaged a long time a go, may be a year or so and the console was working as it should with the original FW.

I don't mean I've injected the KV into the xell the way one would inject KV into Xellous. I mean that after flashing Xell, I flashed over lpt the KV.bin.

Concerning the diodes, I've checked with a multimeter. In one way +ve to +ve, it reads about 0.5M, in the other it reads a big number.

And yes, when I flash the original FW back with the Jtag wiring in place it gives error 0020; however, when I remove the wires it works fine.
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« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2010, 01:46:03 AM »

In one way +ve to +ve, it reads about 0.5M

well i take it your meter doesn't support diode checking function...
 but still good enough to check these diodes...
with the meter set to any ohms setting it still should only read one way...
them diodes are leaking...they should show like 500-700 with the black probe from the meter on the band side of the diode...
and 0 with the red probe on the on the band side of the diode

what diodes you using?


and didn't trace the caps fully but they are part of the circuit to JB1F1...
« Last Edit: February 09, 2010, 01:48:45 AM by ReverseAffect » Logged

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AmrH
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« Reply #6 on: February 09, 2010, 08:39:49 AM »

In one way +ve to +ve, it reads about 0.5M

well i take it your meter doesn't support diode checking function...
 but still good enough to check these diodes...
with the meter set to any ohms setting it still should only read one way...
them diodes are leaking...they should show like 500-700 with the black probe from the meter on the band side of the diode...
and 0 with the red probe on the on the band side of the diode

what diodes you using?


and didn't trace the caps fully but they are part of the circuit to JB1F1...

I don't think there are problems with soldering to the track, as people have reported it working.

I use 1N4148 diodes for this process. The multimeter I'm using is this one http://www.tequipment.net/FlukeDigital10Multimeter.html . It has a diode test mode and separate ohm-meter mode. When I test the diodes outside the circuit with the diode meter, It give me 0.5 in one direction (Black probe on the band side) and Open Load in the other; however, when I test with the ohm-meter (Still outside the circuit) it gives me around 1M ohm on one side (Black probe on the band side) and open load on the other.

When I test the diodes with the diode tester when it's connected to the circuit, it reads a value in both directions (One is 0.5 and the other is really high). When I measure with the ohm-meter with the diode in the circuit, it gives me around 3.5M in both directions.

Does this show that the diodes are not performing as they should?
« Last Edit: February 09, 2010, 09:36:45 AM by AmrH » Logged
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« Reply #7 on: February 09, 2010, 10:52:37 AM »

yes for some reason there leaking.....i bought a batch of 20 ..10 per pack and a total of 6 leaked within 1 power up...weird but i guess happens...should be no mater what inline or out ...no reading 1 way...
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AmrH
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« Reply #8 on: February 09, 2010, 01:02:46 PM »

yes for some reason there leaking.....i bought a batch of 20 ..10 per pack and a total of 6 leaked within 1 power up...weird but i guess happens...should be no mater what inline or out ...no reading 1 way...

Should I buy a batch of 100 for example and test again?
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« Reply #9 on: February 09, 2010, 01:06:32 PM »

yes for some reason there leaking.....i bought a batch of 20 ..10 per pack and a total of 6 leaked within 1 power up...weird but i guess happens...should be no mater what inline or out ...no reading 1 way...

Should I buy a batch of 100 for example and test again?

I would at least pick 2 more up...I stopped ordering from flebay..lol and just went to radioshack and got there all worked great...
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AmrH
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« Reply #10 on: February 09, 2010, 01:10:17 PM »

yes for some reason there leaking.....i bought a batch of 20 ..10 per pack and a total of 6 leaked within 1 power up...weird but i guess happens...should be no mater what inline or out ...no reading 1 way...

Should I buy a batch of 100 for example and test again?

I would at least pick 2 more up...I stopped ordering from flebay..lol and just went to radioshack and got there all worked great...


So the diodes are what are giving me the E79?
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« Reply #11 on: February 09, 2010, 01:22:34 PM »

as i stated just because them caps didnt give you a problem when you wernt modded they can now...

didn't trace the caps fully but they showed a reading to DB1F1...don't know sorry never had this problem..as far as i know i know no one but you with them dead caps....(but for the hell of it lets skip this and check the software part)

what CB,cd are you running.....did you check the nand in 360flashtool?
can be a bad kv(corrupted) injected into xbr...(bad blocks when reading the nand?)

grab XBR_3a for falcon inject your kv and config into and flash the nand....(once you do this power 25 sec unplugged from the back of the 360 and plug back in and press eject)
did you flash back your orig nand copy...does it work?


can be the leaky diodes to seeing though your getting a reading on both sides....
start testing.....
« Last Edit: February 09, 2010, 01:27:33 PM by ReverseAffect » Logged

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AmrH
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« Reply #12 on: February 09, 2010, 01:43:30 PM »

as i stated just because them caps didnt give you a problem when you wernt modded they can now...

didn't trace the caps fully but they showed a reading to DB1F1...don't know sorry never had this problem..as far as i know i know no one but you with them dead caps....(but for the hell of it lets skip this and check the software part)

what CB,cd are you running.....did you check the nand in 360flashtool?
can be a bad kv(corrupted) injected into xbr...(bad blocks when reading the nand?)

grab XBR_3a for falcon inject your kv and config into and flash the nand....(once you do this power 25 sec unplugged from the back of the 360 and plug back in and press eject)
did you flash back your orig nand copy...does it work?


can be the leaky diodes to seeing though your getting a reading on both sides....
start testing.....

My Cb is 5766 and I've tried all what you've stated. And yes the original is working!

Aside from the caps, I've compared this falcon with another functioning Jasper that I have. For example, between points J2D2.2 and point 2 on the RF Panel, The falcon reads about 5 ohms where the Jasper reads about 1M. Seems like the board is messed up. I'll go buy another Jtag'able box, we do have a loooooooooooooot in my country!
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« Reply #13 on: February 09, 2010, 02:57:13 PM »

good deal but also remember the jasper run on less wattage/amps...keep that in mind....i would try the new diodes
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yifanlu
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« Reply #14 on: February 14, 2010, 07:41:22 PM »

Try a diode (1N4148) connecting from J2D2.7 to J2D2.4 black pointing to 4. That's how I got my hack to work.

Also, if you soldered any wires to underneigth the board, try taking the mobo out of the case and running it outside the case.
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