pej02
Newbie
Posts: 6
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« Reply #1160 on: June 29, 2011, 10:30:22 AM » |
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So should i remove it? Also could you make me a diagram on what i need to do, in my case to fix the problem which i have so i can successfully retrieve the key. Thanks
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1161 on: June 30, 2011, 05:19:52 PM » |
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you need to undo everything u have done, unless you are gonna break thing doing so, then u need to hire help b4 u break your 360 for good. u need to read the jungleflasher guide, the guide you found does not work anymore. http://jungleflasher.net/files/JungleFlasher.pdf |
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weras123
Newbie
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« Reply #1162 on: June 30, 2011, 08:54:43 PM » |
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hello ihave a proplem in my pcb here is the pictuer    sorry for my bad english  |
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1163 on: June 30, 2011, 09:20:21 PM » |
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u need to get a pro to fix your drive, your soldering skills are not good enough.
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weras123
Newbie
Posts: 4
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« Reply #1164 on: July 01, 2011, 05:53:35 PM » |
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Thank you all I have repaired the problem
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pej02
Newbie
Posts: 6
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« Reply #1165 on: July 03, 2011, 06:30:43 AM » |
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I'd really appreciate advice on how to fix this board so I can read out my keys. R709 has melted off along with part of the trace. Both pads for R707 are missing as well as the trace back to the solder pad on CON1. The MT1319L gets seriously hot a few seconds after applying power (power is then removed to avoid further overheating/damage). R710 measures 100 Ohm and R709 was 116 Ohm before it went AWOL. The resistance between 3V3 and GND is 7 Ohm. This is my son's board which he was 'experimenting' with. I have access to SMT kit and have a batchelors in electronics so just need some good instructions of what to do from folks who have been there. http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j429/pej02/lite-on-pcb.jpg |
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1166 on: July 03, 2011, 01:01:11 PM » |
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the following pic will get you to the point where you can start to think about key extraction (all u need is that resistor, the other work in the pic doesn't apply to your situation), then it gets complicated. the 2 resistors by r707 are not used and need 0 continuity between pads. you will also probably want to replace that pcb, but you have to dump his firmware. the following tutorial explains how. do not power the drive unless the resistance from 3.3 to grd increases to ~100k after doing repair work. the chip getting hot and that low resistance reading is typical of a fried drive that is beyond repair. honestly, this is best left to the hand of a experienced pro. http://jungleflasher.net/files/JungleFlasher.pdf |
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« Last Edit: July 03, 2011, 01:17:52 PM by iateshaggy »
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pej02
Newbie
Posts: 6
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« Reply #1167 on: July 03, 2011, 03:00:03 PM » |
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thanks. is your 100 Ohm resistor modification the same as soldering the same value of resistor between A and B in the photo below? By "the two resistors by R707", do you mean R708 and R710 or R707 and R708 which are the tx/rx lines?  I just tried scraping some of the solder resist off the via at A with a scalpel, inserting a 100 Ohm resistor between A and B, and then measuring the resistance between 3V3 and GND. It now measures 5.7 Ohm - which means a dead MT1319L? The idea was to get the key from the board and then flash it into a new drive. |
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1168 on: July 03, 2011, 04:12:23 PM » |
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yes, my mod is the same as your a to b mod. i do mean the 708 and 707 are left empty. 708 looks like it may have a solder bridge or it may just be your lighting. seeing a pic of both sides of the board could be helpful.
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ZerOneX
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« Reply #1169 on: July 05, 2011, 08:55:46 PM » |
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iates, I´m did not give up yet.... because of that I didn´t send you the drive... yet!! now I got this Sending Vendor Intro to port 0xEC00
Status 0xF2
Re-sending Vendor Intro:
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Serial flash found with Status 0x72
Sending Device ID request to port 0xEC00
Manufacturer ID: 0xC2
Device ID: 0x11
Flash Name: MXIC(MX25L2005)
Flash Size: 262144 bytes
Getting Status from port 0xEC00
Serial flash found with Status 0x72
Reading Bank 0: ................
Reading Bank 1: ................
Reading Bank 2: ................
Reading Bank 3: ................
Dumped in 5515mS
Lite-On Dump file saved to Lite-OFW.bin
Loading firmware from buffer
Parse Failed !
Loading MTK_Flash source file
I´m able now to dump the firmware, but I´m receiving parse failed. Just providing this info is it possible to guess something? Cheers. EDIT* I´m seeing Lite_OFW.bin in hexadecimal and it is all FFFFFFFFF  |
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« Last Edit: July 05, 2011, 09:33:34 PM by ZerOneX »
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Just a noob in search of knowledge!
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1170 on: July 05, 2011, 10:56:28 PM » |
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did u forget to break circuit to via 101?
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ZerOneX
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« Reply #1171 on: July 06, 2011, 05:45:01 PM » |
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no man, it is isolated... I did it using MRA.
cheers.
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Just a noob in search of knowledge!
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1172 on: July 06, 2011, 06:14:07 PM » |
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i did do one drive once that kept doing this to me, parse fail every time. i eventually gave up and probed it and got the key no problem. the really odd thing is after i got the key, i flashed it with some "stock" ofw and mra started working like magic. i don't know why and no one ever gave me an answer on it, but it is possible u got a screwy one like i did. try the pmt hack on it, only the key matters anyway.
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tigerjoy
Newbie
Posts: 1
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« Reply #1173 on: August 05, 2011, 01:45:59 PM » |
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Hii, Everyone I tried to do a MRA hack with my liteon drive and did everything told in the Boxxdr site. Unfortunately I connected the power cable to the cable wronly and I burned the R207 fuse. I need to repair the drive to stock firmware or want to flash it. I have the DVD Key but I need to repair the drive. I saw many photos in this post but I am a bit confused which one to follow. I dont think I need to post the photos as I described my problem elaborately. I just need to repair my drive. Note When I connect my drive to the Xbox 360 the three red lights flashes and after I disconnect the power cable from the drive the three red light flashing stops and the middle green lights starts flashing. The DVD Key was taken out by a modder and as he spoofed a Benq instead of my original liteon drive I hacked the Benq drive which is very easy and go my DVD Key back and stored it in a safe place. Please I need help If a mail is sendto me @ ranajoy123saha@gmail.com It would be very good as finding out this posts link would be a bit difficult as I have to go through a lot of searching. |
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CoDeFl@sher
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« Reply #1174 on: August 05, 2011, 08:31:41 PM » |
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Hii, Everyone I tried to do a MRA hack with my liteon drive and did everything told in the Boxxdr site. Unfortunately I connected the power cable to the cable wronly and I burned the R207 fuse. I need to repair the drive to stock firmware or want to flash it. I have the DVD Key but I need to repair the drive. I saw many photos in this post but I am a bit confused which one to follow. I dont think I need to post the photos as I described my problem elaborately. I just need to repair my drive. Note When I connect my drive to the Xbox 360 the three red lights flashes and after I disconnect the power cable from the drive the three red light flashing stops and the middle green lights starts flashing. The DVD Key was taken out by a modder and as he spoofed a Benq instead of my original liteon drive I hacked the Benq drive which is very easy and go my DVD Key back and stored it in a safe place. Please I need help If a mail is sendto me @ ranajoy123saha@gmail.com It would be very good as finding out this posts link would be a bit difficult as I have to go through a lot of searching. tigerjoy you probably burned the dvd controller (MT1319L) of your board ,now you have two options: 1-replace the dvd board,then flash your dvdkey / fw on it . 2-replace the entire drive,then flash your dvdkey / fw on it . |
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Zeckyporosi
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« Reply #1175 on: August 12, 2011, 10:58:09 AM » |
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What happens if the drive doesn't have damaged traces, but the MT1319L is getting hot?
Basically my friend did a drive with the LT Clip, and shorted it in some way, thus the drive was dead as soon as he plugged it in. Those LT clips are rubbish for sure.
Anyway, I've reconnected the traces (All pads are perfectly intact and nothing is grounding out as the board has been cleaned of all solder.), the MT Gets hot, but if I leave the traces cut, the MTK doesn't get hot. Bit of a catch-22.
I did not attempt anything further after that as it can damage the MT chip further if it's always powered on while shorting out. Thus I'm asking here how to fix this issue properly (I'm aware that the drive can be possibly already dead forever anyway)
Cheers!
EDIT: Never mind, the drive is indeed dead. The clip slides and sends ground to the 3.3v side of the mtl causing internal short aka dead as a doornail.
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« Last Edit: August 12, 2011, 12:05:22 PM by Zeckyporosi »
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CoDeFl@sher
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« Reply #1176 on: August 12, 2011, 10:53:51 PM » |
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What happens if the drive doesn't have damaged traces, but the MT1319L is getting hot?
Basically my friend did a drive with the LT Clip, and shorted it in some way, thus the drive was dead as soon as he plugged it in. Those LT clips are rubbish for sure.
Anyway, I've reconnected the traces (All pads are perfectly intact and nothing is grounding out as the board has been cleaned of all solder.), the MT Gets hot, but if I leave the traces cut, the MTK doesn't get hot. Bit of a catch-22.
I did not attempt anything further after that as it can damage the MT chip further if it's always powered on while shorting out. Thus I'm asking here how to fix this issue properly (I'm aware that the drive can be possibly already dead forever anyway)
Cheers!
EDIT: Never mind, the drive is indeed dead. The clip slides and sends ground to the 3.3v side of the mtl causing internal short aka dead as a doornail.
Zeckyporosi in normal condition the chip gets hot a bit,but if it's getting too hot maybe the power cable was plugged in the wrong way(upside down)causing damage to MT1319L. |
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Gazcoigne
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« Reply #1177 on: August 16, 2011, 07:25:20 AM » |
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Those LT clips are rubbish for sure.
the clips are fine and a good job when installed correctlydont bash something coz you didnt use it right!! |
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djblade17
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« Reply #1178 on: August 18, 2011, 11:35:15 AM » |
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hey guys a while back I was posting about my mt getting extreamly hot
I have read several times that it usually burnt out and a paper weight
I was planning on getting the new progskeet chip for the ps3 downgrade xbox nand flashing
Just wondering if I am able to do anything with this as far as reading the mt?
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Gazcoigne
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« Reply #1179 on: August 23, 2011, 09:42:33 AM » |
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you can lift the main MT chip and resolder that into a working board to dump the fw and fix the drive if you cant get the board repaired.
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