|
iateshaggy
|
 |
« Reply #1100 on: March 03, 2011, 05:59:39 PM » |
|
lizard might not work considering both points it probes are gone.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
sd-253
Newbie
Posts: 8
|
|
« Reply #1101 on: March 03, 2011, 08:56:27 PM » |
|
with the Lizard the probing point is the MPXO1 on the top
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Gazcoigne
|
|
« Reply #1104 on: March 04, 2011, 09:44:04 AM » |
|
seriously dude READ THE DAMN TOPIC YOU JUST POSTED IN!! the answer is here, pull your head out of your ass and read!! |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
xboxer1234
|
|
« Reply #1105 on: March 04, 2011, 10:35:22 AM » |
|
seriously dude READ THE DAMN TOPIC YOU JUST POSTED IN!! the answer is here, pull your head out of your ass and read!! Wow, you really get mad easily don't you? If someone asks for help and there's already answer for that, you can just tell them that. No need to yell and rape the caps, nobody likes that. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
hardstore
Newbie
Posts: 2
|
|
« Reply #1106 on: April 03, 2011, 01:58:39 PM » |
|
dump is ok, how can i restore it?  |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: April 04, 2011, 08:48:03 AM by hardstore »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
misterfly
|
|
« Reply #1107 on: April 05, 2011, 06:23:40 AM » |
|
dump is ok, how can i restore it? pffffffffffff Lame system |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Dream
|
|
« Reply #1108 on: April 06, 2011, 01:48:40 PM » |
|
hardstore,
Buy new liteon drive-->flash it-->Game on.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
hardstore
Newbie
Posts: 2
|
|
« Reply #1109 on: April 08, 2011, 08:10:07 AM » |
|
With fixed pads "Open tray" =(
I'm russian, ebay hate me.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
digant
Newbie
Posts: 5
|
|
« Reply #1110 on: April 17, 2011, 10:18:57 AM » |
|
Hi all
As many people posting on this forum, I had some problems dumping, for the first time, the firmware (in my case it was LT 1.1) on my Liteon 93450C.
I used the MRA method with 3 cuts (2 cuts to isolate pad 101 and 1 cut for pad 122) and a 22 Ohm resistor connected to pad 101 (a switch connecting pad 101 to the resistor was also used).
I used the XBOX to provide power supply to the DVD drive. When I tried to enter the DVD drive in vendor mode (so pad 101 was switched to 22 Ohm resistor and power cable was connected to DVD drive) I saw a small spark on pad C01. I immediately disconnected the power cable. I don't know if I put the power cable in a wrong way or the MRA connections were not good.
I took the DVD drive in stock condition (this time I measured with multimeter every soldering was good before) but the DVD drive was not detected any more by XBOX (a blinking green light on XBOX) and also by the PC. No laser calibration is performed and also eject/close don't work.
The PCB of the DVD drive does not show any damage (also pad C01 is good).
Having had this problem, I don't have also any backup of the original firmware (I don't have the DVD key), so currently my XBOX is not usable at all.
I read all 56 pages of this forum and in particular the hints provided by Dream an Iateshaggy, so in order to verify if it is still possible to retrieve at least the original firmware (to be migrated in a new DVD drive) I made again the MRA fix and measured some resistances as suggested by Dream/iateshaggy.
Below my measurements (I used the digital multimeter UT71E):
+5V to GND = 3,0033 K Ohm
+3.3V to GND = 183,32 Ohm (it should be instead ~100 K Ohm)
Tray status to GND = 217 K Ohm (it should be instead ~10 M Ohm)
Open/Close to GND = 10,27 M Ohm
Comparing my measurements with measurements done on a working DVD drive, it seems that there is something wrong on +3.3V pin and also on Tray status pin.
I measured also V on Tray status and Open/Close pins (with DVD drive in stock condition):
Tray status to GND = 0,004 V (it should be instead ~3,3 V)
Open/Close to GND = 2,286 V (it should be instead ~0 V (close) or ~3,3 V (open))
According to Dream hints, a resistance of 30-400 Ohm maybe means a burned pin 122. I measured the V on pin 122 and it was ok (on stock condition it was 3.3 V, with MRA + probe it is 1,75 V).
Did some of you measure a resistance in the same range (I didn't read any post where someone measured a resistance in range 30-400 Ohm)? if so, did you solve the problem?
Dreams, or anyone, is there something else I can measure to understand if MT chip is burned?
Thanks in advance for any reply.
br,
digant
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
iateshaggy
|
|
« Reply #1111 on: April 18, 2011, 05:52:38 PM » |
|
a picture is worth 1000 words, but 1000 words are not worth a picture.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
digant
Newbie
Posts: 5
|
|
« Reply #1112 on: April 19, 2011, 02:16:42 AM » |
|
You're right, I will post images asap.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Eawo90
Newbie
Posts: 2
|
|
« Reply #1113 on: April 19, 2011, 02:14:13 PM » |
|
Hello my name is GAME OVER or maybe not? I fail my 74850c reading firmware Had probe on MRA and pressed the top bottom then i had the green spear in 707r. after that the ship just get hot and ck3 wont power it. Ive been reading all post in this thread i guess and yesterday i was tired and stupid i removed the glue from the MT1319L chip then i started lifting all GND and 3.3 volt pins and that include pin 101 and pin 122. Was reading other forums and stuff to. I did this couse my borde light up for like half sec in my CK3 and then power off. in my xbox it the chip heat up in like 3-6 sec. So someone said i could lift some gnd and 3.3 pins untill the ck3 power it  . So i did and i did lift 122 at last and after that one it powers up. I think i can solder a wire on a few of the pins and 122 im sure i can solder a wire to. So my question is can i MRA right on the chip? i have flashed around 20xbox and maybe 15 liteons and i havnt failed this hard before |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
iateshaggy
|
|
« Reply #1114 on: April 19, 2011, 09:09:41 PM » |
|
i guess u forgot to read all the post of us telling people to post pictures.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
Eawo90
Newbie
Posts: 2
|
|
« Reply #1116 on: April 20, 2011, 10:11:38 AM » |
|
i guess u forgot to read all the post of us telling people to post pictures.
Here is the pic  RED IS DEAD R207 is ok and the MT1319L is cut on i think all exept one 3.3 line and GND look privous post |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Atlantisch
Newbie
Posts: 1
|
|
« Reply #1117 on: April 23, 2011, 01:04:02 AM » |
|
First of all I'm new to this type of modding. I've done several software mods, I had an older lite on drive in a system which I was able to get into vendor mode by the tray being stuck out. I purchased this xbox as is, so I knew there would be problems. It looks like someone has tried to mod this lite on drive, and failed? Basically what I'm trying to determine is if there is any way to get this drive back to operational. Currently the drive does not eject, and when hooked up to the xbox the middle light flashes continuously. At first I thought it may not be getting power, I have felt of the chips and they both are warm to the touch, so I know there is power. Could someone help me with where I should check voltages? I do have a multimeter. By looking at the pcb does it look like I have options left to get this drive back in a working condition? I suspect there is a key on there, however I'm not sure I care to retrieve it. If I have a game plan that would do no more damage to the board I wouldn't mind, as it wouldn't hurt to have a backed up key. Thanks for any help. I do understand that I'll likely have to resolder some if not all of the tracks on the back. http://i54.tinypic.com/24x26x3.jpghttp://i55.tinypic.com/1zojeyg.jpg |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
iateshaggy
|
|
« Reply #1118 on: April 23, 2011, 06:19:58 PM » |
|
looks like you have a little to much solder on your joints, clean it up and see what happens.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
PipeRifle
Newbie
Posts: 5
|
|
« Reply #1119 on: April 23, 2011, 11:15:03 PM » |
|
Hello! I read this thread back to front but I felt in over my head, so I joined up to ask for some help. A friend gave me this Lite-On 93450c after trying to mod it and basically carving it up. I've only worked on the original xbox but I wanted an electronics hobby so I tried to get it to work, and probably made it worse in the process. Here's about where I'm at:  I tried a hodge-podge of fixes but nothing seems to work. I can't get the drive to show up in JF, and forcing the Vendor Intro doesn't work either. This is with a ground wire a la BoxxDr and the other soldered to the wreckage of pad 101. I didn't want to try the other pad until I knew nothing else was holding me back from flashing. I've got the yellow jumper wires in place as seen above, but my friend dug into the epoxy and broke off the middle resistor by the chip, which leads back down to the fifth pin (a "yellow" fix I've seen a few times). I don't currently have the means to get rid of the epoxy, but will find the means if it's my only option. Here are some more pictures showing the damage; let me know if there's anything more I can provide to see if I can get it working. Oh, I have a multimeter but it's really crappy and twitchy so I don't think I'm getting accurate readings, but I can report whatever it says if that might be an issue (but so far there's been no smoke or reason for me to believe anything is fried, just all chewed up). Also, ignore the blobs of sticky-tack, they were just "helping hands" while I tried the R207 -> C03 bridge.     |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Dilber MC Theme by HarzeM