How to repair lite-on pad 101

[Dream]

Mythien,

What is the resistance 3,3v to gnd?

[idog]

Just a quick thank you. Thanks to this thread I was able to fix a customers drive that was ruined by two previous 'professionals'

The drive wouldn't even show up in the list when using dosflash. Cleaned it up (solderr everywhere, pieces of trace ripped off) and using this fix (http://www.dream.pic.fi/kuvat/Xbox%20360/Liteonin%20salat/Myrkky%20FIX.JPG/full) brought it back to life.

Then applied MRA the usual way, got a dump and used a new drive to fix his xbox. Also it had the ejecting issue (drive would eject constantly and blink all the time) which I solved with the 3.3v bridge on the bottomside of the mainboard of the xbox itself (http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=13040.msg92014#msg92014)

Bottomline : great community and even better members here

[Dream]

idog,

That was my first fix. I was looking info and iateshaggy was already on it.
This is basic electronics so all most anyone can do it.

This is for noobs,

Now don’t do the MRA any more if you can’t solder.

[Pacote-san]

idog,

That was my first fix. I was looking info and iateshaggy was already on it.
This is basic electronics so all most anyone can do it.

Now don’t do the MRA any more if you can’t solder.

Or just dont do it at all

The new method is so easy

Just did a few drives today with the MPX01 method

[Mythien]

Mythien,

What is the resistance 3,3v to gnd?

3.3v to gnd is 0 with no fixes in place and the board is just as I posted in the pic.

[idog]

Now don’t do the MRA any more if you can’t solder.

You do realize I wasn't the one who f*cked it up, right ? If you don't, read my post again please Just came here to say thank you.

The new method is so easy
Just did a few drives today with the MPX01 method

The only thing that bothers me is that it generates a dummy. So no calibration data is dumped. Other than that, it's quick and easy (also made the PMT probe and tested yesterday).

[iateshaggy]

you're welcome idog.

[Dream]

Mythien,

Clean the board and take new hires picture.

[xmstree]

@Dream,

You obviously to have a solid understanding of the Liteon board. Do you understand how the "PMT" hack works?

I've seen many explanations of how to do the hack, but nowhere does it explain how the hack works. I somewhat understand how the MRA hack works, it cuts and grounds the traces so the chip reads all '0x000000...' when trying to read the firmware and consequently the drive enters vendor mode.

I assume the PMT hack is achieving the same thing? How is it possible without cutting a trace? I assume it is effectively achieved by the switch on the 3.3v to the actual drive? Is the ground to MPX01 necessary to simply discharge the capacitors?

If you do understand how it works, it'd be great if you were able to offer a quick explanation for people interested. I don't think there is any explanation currently available.

[bandit123]

Hi all been looking at this thread alot there are some extreamly skilled people here WOWEEEEEE


i have a friend who tried to fit a lt switch 1.5 he pulled the PCB and fubard the traces etc and also he used a gas soldering iron
i know that the solder needs cleaning up to prevent any ground and i am pretty good at soldering myself

he said all the pads are shot but i am not sure TBH some look dead some dont from his picture

i have attached the pic also a closeup of the board
is there anyway someone could draw me a diagram to where the wires need to go to return this to stock so it works he is not to fussed about it being flashed lol

PIC 1 THE ORIGINAL PIC



PIC 2 changed the brightness to see if it makes it any better


PIC 3 cropped for a closer look




Thanks if anyone helps

[Dream]

bandit123,

Clean it with solder wick and take new picture. (All the extra solder off)

xmstree,

I don’t know that, it is software thing so ask someone who knows sata calls fw functions.
I am electronics repair guy so i know the basic components and how to troubleshoot them.

[bandit123]

ok i will get it from him and try clean it up.
i told him to hang on as i was at work but he couldnt wait lol

[iateshaggy]

did yall get the key from it?  do you want it flashed?  dumping the drive would be easiest with pmt if you know how to do it, mra will be very difficult with 101 and 122 missing.  it can be fixed just like the one in post 1.

[bandit123]

yea i want to repair it so then i can PMT it and drop lt+ 1.1 onto it

[Shaun]

Dear god, ive not read this thread for quite some time, but hopefully the new method should prevent the pcb graveyard of people destroying tracks like this.
If you do screw up a track or via, at least use thin wire (kynar is great) and keep the exposed wire at the ends to a minimum for smd components !

[Dream]

Use easy probe.  
Probe the missing pad 101/122, the hole is there.

It is harder to remove epoxy and put the drive to stock.
But i don’t know can we PMT, when pad 101 and 122 is missing it can work so it is one option.

Difficulty is same as PMT when you are probing the pad 101/122 hole so go for the mra.

Easy Probe 20 ohm resistor


Your MRA fix


Measure resistance 3,3v to GND 95 - 110K ohms is good then dump it.

[cheeks81]

hello i have a lite on dvd drive i tryed to install a lt switch on it i am tryin to find out how to get the traces closed is there a way to by pass the traces being open to get drive working i can take pictures of it its a 93450c i have conductive glue and a solider iron please help

[iateshaggy]

pmt will not stop noobs from destroying boards.  they will probe wrong points and plug power in upside down and we will continue to be asked the same question over and over irrelevant of how little any answer has changed in liteon history.

[Dream]

cheeks81,

Clean the PCB and take picture. Do not use the conductive glue!!

iateshaggy,

I hope that the new method will save some Liteon boards.
If you use normal MRA probe (easy probe) to PMT, it safer than the new PMT way only gnd... when someone probe wrong pad.

[pentschev]

Hey guys, this is my first post, so I'll tell you the whole story...

Everything began when I was doing the MRA to upgrade from LT to LT+, so all the cut work was already done by the seller and the traces were fixed. I did everything right, checked 3 times before I turn the drive on, but, when I turned it on, without noticing, I had connected the power plug upside down. Obviously, something burned, and the only thing that was apparently burned was that voltage regulator near the r207.

After that, I figured out that I would need a new voltage regulator, so I got a new PCB from eBay, desoldered the voltage regulator from the new one and soldered on the old board. When I turned it on, the drive simply did nothing, that was when I tried to figure out what more should be burned. Reading along this very same post, I managed that it could be one of the 0 ohm resistors, but it wasn't. Reading some more, I found out that the 101 pad was destroyed, letting me the only option to do the r207/c03 connection, and when I turned it on again, surprise, the led from the drive turned on, but the drive won't eject anyway.

Before I do the r207/c03 connection, I couldn't get a resistance, and after the connection and after I turned it on (no, I didn't measure the resistance before turning it on again), i get about 27 ohms of resistance between 3.3V and GND.

So, the question is, is there any chance I can turn it on again (because I'm doing something wrong, like a short or something), at least to extract the key or the MT is just burned/game over?

Thank you in advance!