eraser01
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« Reply #800 on: September 08, 2010, 02:11:21 AM » |
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you could be so kind as to tell me the points to be welded? thanks again
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #801 on: September 08, 2010, 02:30:00 PM » |
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use the same jumper wire that the mra hack uses, also noted on page 1 of this thread. then remove epoxy from pin 101 area and probe the resistor that feeds pin 101 to intro (probe same side as chip is on).
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xDP
Newbie

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« Reply #802 on: September 08, 2010, 02:54:39 PM » |
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all i have to do is connect a wire right ? from that point to other point right?
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #803 on: September 09, 2010, 12:30:06 AM » |
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xdp: that is just how to return your drive to stock, u will still have to mra hack it to dump firmware. if you mra hack it, just omit the cut on the trace w/ the missing pad as that cut is already there.
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shiz
Newbie

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« Reply #804 on: September 16, 2010, 03:51:44 AM » |
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Dream and company i need your help. I have a LO drive 93450C that refuses to dump. Im using the MRA method and wiring outlined here because pads 101 and 122 were lifted/damaged.  Please notice that i didnt rebuild 101 using the top jumper (scratched out in red). I rebuilt using the bottom of the board (yellow curved line) The rest is as the diagram shows. Here's what it looks like:   I am using the Maximus 360 Xtractor to power the LO drive, and my computers Native Nforce Sata board (NO via). In JF when i start the drive is detected right away. This is the routine i go through: Start JF - drive powerd on - JF detects Drive - Device/intro - power to drive off, switch fliped towards the leg with resistor (22ohm) - Click YES - Drive powered on - Status 0x52. Ive been at this for like 6 hours. I keep getting status 0x52. For some reason it wont enter in x72 vendor mode. Can you guys please offer some input? thanks
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Dream
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« Reply #805 on: September 16, 2010, 04:48:47 AM » |
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Measure resistance 3,3V to GND if it is 95k -110k ohms, use 15 ohm resistor. 
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« Last Edit: September 16, 2010, 04:55:32 AM by Dream »
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shiz
Newbie

Posts: 3
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« Reply #806 on: September 16, 2010, 07:43:16 AM » |
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wow quick response dream  Just to clarify : you believe theres a short AND i have to swap to a 15ohm resistor, right? I just measured resistantce by placing one probe along the 3.3v trace (where you outlined the short) and the point where the leg with the resistor is soldered. Is this correct? I got 101.5 Ohms. so now, fix the short, and swap to a 15ohm resistor. Please confirm. thanks
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Dream
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« Reply #807 on: September 16, 2010, 08:01:27 AM » |
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wow quick response dream  Just to clarify : you believe theres a short AND i have to swap to a 15ohm resistor, right? I just measured resistantce by placing one probe along the 3.3v trace (where you outlined the short) and the point where the leg with the resistor is soldered. Is this correct? I got 101.5 Ohms. so now, fix the short, and swap to a 15ohm resistor. Please confirm. thanks You got 101.5 ohms or 101.5 K ohms? If it is 101.5K ohms there is no short just change the 22ohm resistor to 15 ohm and dump it. 
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« Last Edit: September 16, 2010, 10:14:09 AM by Dream »
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shiz
Newbie

Posts: 3
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« Reply #808 on: September 16, 2010, 09:48:41 AM » |
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ill double check when i get home i was rushing this morning, i cant recall.
can you be a little more specific at which points on the board you'd like me to take the readings from? Im still unsure if i measured in the right spots.
Thanks so much for your help so far.
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AD
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« Reply #809 on: September 16, 2010, 10:05:30 AM » |
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Use smaller wire.... wow...
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #810 on: September 16, 2010, 02:25:39 PM » |
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i like to get rid of switch all together and just solder the resistor to ground and probe the alt 101 point w/ the grounded resistor while intro'ing.
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geep6
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« Reply #811 on: September 17, 2010, 12:32:08 AM » |
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does any one know the value of these smd components thanks 
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Dream
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« Reply #812 on: September 18, 2010, 02:39:56 AM » |
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geep6,
If the caps are lifted dont worry. You dont need them.
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padrino
Newbie

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« Reply #813 on: September 20, 2010, 04:03:59 PM » |
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I really don't know what to do anymore I just don't read nothing on my multimeter when i meassure 3,3V to GND. Dream where exactly do you live in Europe I would pay for it if you could fix it, i just don't know what to do anymore ..
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Dream
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« Reply #814 on: September 20, 2010, 11:34:15 PM » |
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I really don't know what to do anymore I just don't read nothing on my multimeter when i meassure 3,3V to GND. Dream where exactly do you live in Europe I would pay for it if you could fix it, i just don't know what to do anymore .. I think you have blown 3,3V line zero ohm resistor.
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xsputnikx
Newbie

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« Reply #815 on: September 22, 2010, 01:24:27 AM » |
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Hey guys my very first post and I regret to say that I was doing a case mod on my 360 and upon doing so I unplugged my lite on drive after blowing the 360 mainboard free of dust deposits.... and as I was plugging my dvd drive back up I somehow managed to hook power up backwards as you all know what happened next I got a faint electronic smell very small poof of smoke... It was plugged up maybe 4 longs seconds i powered it off asap and pulled the drive out...
upon inspection of the board it seems the only damage was done to 2 sm resistors r204 and r207 well.. I removed them today and robbed some new resistors off another dvd drive not sure if the values are the same but they look it....
but upon further inspection I really can't seem to find any soilder points left on the board from where the resistors were removed.. not sure if they were damaged by me removing or damaged by the accidental hook up...
can someone show me an easy fix for this..
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #816 on: September 22, 2010, 11:00:19 PM » |
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you may have to expose the traces they were connecting. they are just fuses, so you can simply jump the traces w/ solder and maybe a tiny bit of wire.
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Inquisitor
Newbie

Posts: 3
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« Reply #817 on: September 27, 2010, 07:57:02 AM » |
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Hi there guys, Long time reader, first time poster. You all seem to know whats going on, and I just need some clarification! Got a LO 93450c, cuts above pad 101 (v cut) and second cut further down seemed to be fine - successfully read the firmware and reflashed using JF and vampire. Patched up the cuts, but I just get a blinking green light on the xbox - unsure if I didn't repair a cut right? I've cleaned the solder off so you can see whats happening? Do I need to jumper a few lines? Thanks again  
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #818 on: September 27, 2010, 11:13:17 PM » |
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looks like u blew pad 101. use the following jump to fix it and put a dab of solder on where the other red dot is. 
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Inquisitor
Newbie

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« Reply #819 on: September 28, 2010, 05:34:14 AM » |
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Hi there iateshaggy, Appreciate the reply! Gave it a whirl, and something changed. Previously, the 360 would boot, but the drive was unresponsive. Now it doesnt boot, but the drive responds to manual open commands. I like to think my soldering's OK, I cant see any grounded connections - what do you think? Thanks again  
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