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Author Topic: How to repair lite-on pad 101  (Read 155839 times)
Skinleech
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« Reply #740 on: August 16, 2010, 02:31:42 PM »

OK, so this is better I hope?



I have bridged the 2 5v points as circled - was this correct?
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Dream
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« Reply #741 on: August 17, 2010, 01:20:59 AM »

Hey guys new info.

I have here one burned liteon 9. Pin 60 was the problem 5 ohms.
But it was not MT chip it was the ceramic capacitor pin 60 --> cap --> GND.
I removed it and i dumped the firmware so check the caps.

I found similar problem while i was repairing tv….

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brklyn
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« Reply #742 on: August 17, 2010, 07:32:39 AM »

Thanks for the help dream.I have all the wires installed but 1.You have any tips on how to remove epoxy,or is there another alternative spot for the point circled.

 
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Dream
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« Reply #743 on: August 17, 2010, 10:49:42 AM »

OK, so this is better I hope?



I have bridged the 2 5v points as circled - was this correct?

Now it looks good. Can you use multimeter?
Measure over the zero ohm resistors, it should meke piip sound.
If it does not the resistor is blown.

If the resistor is blown (no piip) place small wire top of it and solder it there. ( [<--->] )

Last measure resistance 3,3V to gnd and 5V to gnd.
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Dream
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« Reply #744 on: August 17, 2010, 10:53:32 AM »

brklyn,

Heat the epoxy and take it off, be careful. I use scalpel and butane hot air tool.
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #745 on: August 17, 2010, 01:33:01 PM »

the bad cap u found, was that causing the mystery mtk chip short or just not letting the board get x72?
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Dream
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« Reply #746 on: August 18, 2010, 05:49:37 AM »

the bad cap u found, was that causing the mystery mtk chip short or just not letting the board get x72?

In this case, i think the guy heated the cap too much while he was trying to remove epoxy. I have to do more testing.
This is only little heads up but don’t think it will work on all burned drives.

I thought these ceramic caps are bullet proof... now i don’t think anymore, i have to know it...

It is not the heat just tested it...


« Last Edit: August 18, 2010, 08:57:11 AM by Dream » Logged
Skinleech
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« Reply #747 on: August 18, 2010, 02:14:50 PM »

Now it looks good. Can you use multimeter?
Measure over the zero ohm resistors, it should meke piip sound.
If it does not the resistor is blown.

If the resistor is blown (no piip) place small wire top of it and solder it there. ( [<--->] )

Last measure resistance 3,3V to gnd and 5V to gnd.

Thanks Dream.  I won't get a chance to do this until at least Friday.

Did you mean to do a continuity test on the resistors?  Unfortunately, my multimeter doesn't seem to have a continuity test at all, so looks like I will need to buy a new one.

I assume I need to strip the plastic coating off the wire, and just solder that from end to end on the R203/204/207?

Thank you.
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #748 on: August 18, 2010, 05:50:40 PM »

if it measures 0 resistance, then it has continuity.
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Skinleech
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« Reply #749 on: August 21, 2010, 04:34:57 AM »

OK, r204 was the only one I needed to solder, and have done so.

I still get no 3.3v to GND or 5v to GND reading using the points on the power connection.



Cheers.
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Dream
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« Reply #750 on: August 22, 2010, 12:35:56 PM »

OK, r204 was the only one I needed to solder, and have done so.

I still get no 3.3v to GND or 5v to GND reading using the points on the power connection.



Cheers.

I think it is time to give the board to some one who can do it. Us. iateshaggy canada. BoxxDr...
Dont ask me i dont dump the drives... i give only the info.
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collions
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« Reply #751 on: August 24, 2010, 01:01:33 AM »

Hello everyone. This is my first post but I follow you a long. You are very clever, congratulations!

Now, I have a problem with a LiteOn 93450C.
The guy who brought it to me says he used CK3 + LT switch but without making the cut traces (could not).
Now I gave the drive and the faults that I found are these:
- It's not recognized by jungleflasher
- No signs of life (no eject and the laser does not move)
- I can send it to vendor mode even without cutting tracks
- I can read the F/W but JF gives me "Parse Failed" and rereading the F/W with an hex editor, I have all FFFFF
- Impedance between 1.8 V and GND is 22ohm
- Impedance between 3.3 V and GND is 400ohm
- Impedance Between 3.3 V and 1.8 V is 380ohm

Any advice? Now I just have to do the swap the "big chip" MT1319L

Thank you so much

So, Dream, nothing for me?  Embarrassed
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yeah42
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« Reply #752 on: August 24, 2010, 01:14:11 AM »

Hi, All.
I have a problem.
I burned my drive by pluging power upside down.
Now i recover trace from r207. Tray is opening, laser is moves, but console\computer don't recognise drive.
What can i do?

Pictures:



PS: sory for my English)
« Last Edit: August 24, 2010, 10:18:00 AM by yeah42 » Logged
Dream
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« Reply #753 on: August 24, 2010, 02:03:53 AM »

yeah42,
What can i do?

Measure resistance 3,3V to GND.
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yeah42
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« Reply #754 on: August 24, 2010, 03:12:19 AM »

Dream,
give me something, plz!
« Last Edit: August 24, 2010, 04:06:09 AM by yeah42 » Logged
yeah42
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« Reply #755 on: August 24, 2010, 03:32:30 AM »

MT1319L is dead?
« Last Edit: August 24, 2010, 09:22:07 AM by yeah42 » Logged
Dream
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« Reply #756 on: August 24, 2010, 10:12:55 AM »

MT1319L is dead?

What is the resistance 3,3V to GND?
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yeah42
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« Reply #757 on: August 24, 2010, 11:39:20 AM »

MT1319L is dead?

What is the resistance 3,3V to GND?

~1kOm
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Dream
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« Reply #758 on: August 24, 2010, 12:38:57 PM »

yeah42,

1 K ohms???
Analog or Digital multimeter?
Where do you live?

I have never seen 1K ohms in burned liteon. usually it is ~100k or ~5 ohms.
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yeah42
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« Reply #759 on: August 24, 2010, 01:03:35 PM »

yeah42,

1 K ohms???
Analog or Digital multimeter?
Where do you live?

I have never seen 1K ohms in burned liteon. usually it is ~100k or ~5 ohms.


It is old digital multimeter.
Resistens is ~440 or ~1k Om
I'me from Ukraine.
« Last Edit: August 24, 2010, 01:34:27 PM by yeah42 » Logged
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