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Author Topic: How to repair lite-on pad 101  (Read 158695 times)
relltherell
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« Reply #720 on: August 12, 2010, 09:39:10 AM »

Ok guys since last time i have realized the problem with my read/flash was that Jungleflasher is just too easy to be frozen in. I used Dosflash for my flashing needs and it works perfect (ive done three since last post perfectly in under a hour) - everytime i got status x72 it would freeze in windows...In dos, of course you dont get this. i also didnt realize after switching to the red light on the probe 2...you need to switch back to green light to erase and flash.

Heres my problem today...im trying to get activity to my pcb pad 101 is completely gone pad 122 still exist...I have soldered a wire from via 101 to  via 122 im getting no response on the board. As of now i need to read the key...thats all so with that said, what do i need to do to get this going with a ck3 probe v2

Heres the pics....Mind you on the via 122 line i have fixed the cut that usually is supposed to be cut on it before the read

Question 1: am i supposed to still cut the via 122 line from the pad 122 in order to get the response from pad 122? or can via 122 be resoldered and still get a positive read off pad 122 with this *via 122 to via 101 fix*?

Question 2: is my via 101 solder at the top correct or does it need to be adjusted?


Now for pics



***Damaged Front pcb****










Help...
« Last Edit: August 12, 2010, 09:52:44 AM by relltherell » Logged
iateshaggy
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« Reply #721 on: August 12, 2010, 11:00:40 AM »

its probably not gonna happen w/ a probe 2, it is made to probe 101 which is gone.  remove the jumper from 122 and put it on the line below it, get a 22 ohm resistor and connect a wire to it and solder it to grd.  probe 122 when intro'ing.
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relltherell
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« Reply #722 on: August 12, 2010, 11:05:08 AM »

its probably not gonna happen w/ a probe 2, it is made to probe 101 which is gone.  remove the jumper from 122 and put it on the line below it, get a 22 ohm resistor and connect a wire to it and solder it to grd.  probe 122 when intro'ing.

yea ...earlier when dream said you could use one side of the probev2 on 122 and still get x72 it actually worked. so if i removed the jumper from 122 and put it below - where the piece of solder is left at - and probe pad 122 i should get some action right?
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fwibble
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« Reply #723 on: August 12, 2010, 11:17:56 AM »

fixed mine using this:



Thank you for your help  Cheesy
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Dream
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« Reply #724 on: August 12, 2010, 11:31:13 AM »

relltherell,

Yes, you got it. Fix the c03 pad.
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relltherell
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« Reply #725 on: August 12, 2010, 04:29:49 PM »

relltherell,

Yes, you got it. Fix the c03 pad.

fix the c03 pad as in drop a piece of solder on it? dunno if you looked but the asshole who was checkin the pcb ripped up my wire i previously had attached at the points
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gisel213
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« Reply #726 on: August 12, 2010, 06:15:10 PM »

hey dream is it gone?Huh

http://www.mypicx.com/08122010/liteon/

click on the images in the link to get a closer look....
« Last Edit: August 12, 2010, 06:19:25 PM by gisel213 » Logged
iateshaggy
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« Reply #727 on: August 12, 2010, 07:49:32 PM »

it is salvageable.  are you able to do the repair work?  do you have a multimeter?
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gisel213
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« Reply #728 on: August 12, 2010, 09:23:59 PM »

it is salvageable.  are you able to do the repair work?  do you have a multimeter?

yes i have to get it from a friend of mine who checks and changes ohms on lasers...
I'm all ears on what i am checking for.
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Dream
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« Reply #729 on: August 12, 2010, 11:29:55 PM »

it is salvageable.  are you able to do the repair work?  do you have a multimeter?

yes i have to get it from a friend of mine who checks and changes ohms on lasers...
I'm all ears on what i am checking for.

This is the repair picture: http://dream.pic.fi/kuvat/Xbox%20360/Liteon%207,8,9%20Pad%20Repair/13567/
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Skinleech
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« Reply #730 on: August 13, 2010, 10:16:20 AM »

Skinleech,

You can bridge the 5V line zero ohm resistor. Put small wire top off it and solder it.
Fix your repair work don’t power the drive if your resistance is out of range 3,3V to GND 95k-110k ohms.
Use awg30 wire.

I think you have blugged power cable wrong way.

Look at my work and see how the wires are soldered, they dont touch the other lines...

Cool, thanks Dream.

So, I bought 30awg wire today (or the closest I could get locally), I got some flux the other day, and I have a pack of resistors in the post which should arrive tomorrow.  So, let me get this right; I need to remove the 2 fixes I did already, and resolder them, then solder a 5v line too, using a 0ohm resistor.  So basically I need to follow any red to red (i.e. R204 to R55) and use a 0ohm resistor soldered to the wire I use to join the 2 points?

http://i42.tinypic.com/adjf4j.png

Thank you for the continued support!

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brklyn
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« Reply #731 on: August 13, 2010, 06:12:40 PM »

Hey everybody.I'm trying to find out if this is fixable.I've brought it for $20 as a media player basically,but now i want to see if i can get the firmware off of the drive.I'm pretty good at soldering.I just need a little help figuring out what exactly needs to be done.


« Last Edit: August 13, 2010, 06:18:28 PM by brklyn » Logged
collions
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« Reply #732 on: August 14, 2010, 02:12:41 AM »

Hello everyone. This is my first post but I follow you a long. You are very clever, congratulations!

Now, I have a problem with a LiteOn 93450C.
The guy who brought it to me says he used CK3 + LT switch but without making the cut traces (could not).
Now I gave the drive and the faults that I found are these:
- It's not recognized by jungleflasher
- No signs of life (no eject and the laser does not move)
- I can send it to vendor mode even without cutting tracks
- I can read the F/W but JF gives me "Parse Failed" and rereading the F/W with an hex editor, I have all FFFFF
- Impedance between 1.8 V and GND is 22ohm
- Impedance between 3.3 V and GND is 400ohm
- Impedance Between 3.3 V and 1.8 V is 380ohm

Any advice? Now I just have to do the swap the "big chip" MT1319L

Thank you so much
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Dream
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« Reply #733 on: August 14, 2010, 08:05:36 AM »

brklyn,



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Dream
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« Reply #734 on: August 14, 2010, 08:14:44 AM »

Skinleech,

What is your setup now?
Bridge only the 5V zero ohm resistor no jump wire...


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brklyn
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« Reply #735 on: August 14, 2010, 09:40:15 AM »

Thanks Dream for the help,but the guy i brought the 360 off of must have tried that.Any other alternative points i could use.

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Dream
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« Reply #736 on: August 14, 2010, 10:11:16 AM »

brklyn,

Measure resistance 3,3V to GND when you have fix it.
Fix the buttom also, 1,8V line you can bridge the cuts/lines.

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Skinleech
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« Reply #737 on: August 15, 2010, 05:23:05 AM »

Skinleech,

What is your setup now?
Bridge only the 5V zero ohm resistor no jump wire...


Hi Dream.

This is how it looks now:



Redid both connections you told me to do first of all with AWG30 wire & flux, think they're much cleaner now (not as good as a pro of course).  I bridged the 2 points above R204 - is this correct?  I am still getting very low reading on my multimeter when I check the soldered points, and 3.3v or 5v to gnd does not change the multimeter reading at all so I know I must be doing something wrong.

Thank you.

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iateshaggy
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« Reply #738 on: August 15, 2010, 07:55:40 AM »

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Dream
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« Reply #739 on: August 15, 2010, 09:34:03 AM »

Short 3,3V and 5V line. Focus man take your time.



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