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Dream
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« Reply #340 on: May 07, 2010, 04:22:03 AM » |
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« Last Edit: May 07, 2010, 04:57:02 AM by Dream »
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HiTec
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« Reply #341 on: May 07, 2010, 12:03:53 PM » |
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Hey Dream/Timo. Could you do a simple .pdf guide for all the alternative connections to fix/mod L-O Drives. Example flowcart: Broken 101 pad ---> (fix image/explanation here). etc. Then share it to somewhere. X-S Tutorials section or something. No more answering to same questions and itīs easier to people to find fix from .pdf than 18 page topic 
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #342 on: May 07, 2010, 01:01:37 PM » |
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they have 99% of the info they need in page one (90% in post 1) and still ask the same exact question over and over.
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Dream
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« Reply #343 on: May 07, 2010, 02:54:22 PM » |
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Hey Dream/Timo. Could you do a simple .pdf guide for all the alternative connections to fix/mod L-O Drives. Example flowcart: Broken 101 pad ---> (fix image/explanation here). etc. Then share it to somewhere. X-S Tutorials section or something. No more answering to same questions and itīs easier to people to find fix from .pdf than 18 page topic  OK
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #344 on: May 07, 2010, 11:04:53 PM » |
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i think a lot of people will finally have their ah ha moment if we pulled a controller chip, took a photo of the circuitry under it and photoshopped it on the reverse side of the board so they would understand that all these jumper wires is just a way of re creating the pcb from the other side.
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Dream
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« Reply #345 on: May 08, 2010, 03:25:08 AM » |
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i think a lot of people will finally have their ah ha moment if we pulled a controller chip, took a photo of the circuitry under it and photoshopped it on the reverse side of the board so they would understand that all these jumper wires is just a way of re creating the pcb from the other side.
It is posted here somewhere... Here you go. 
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Dream
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« Reply #346 on: May 08, 2010, 09:39:04 AM » |
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Liteon/x360 repairs BoxxDr Canada: http://www.boxxdr.com/I have seen his work good skills. 10+ This is only service that i recommend, others have not posted any pictures of their work. So i dont know how good they are.
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loady
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« Reply #347 on: May 08, 2010, 04:17:14 PM » |
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@Dream... im slightly confused and have read this whole thread..i broke pad 101 & 122 after going about trying to dump firmware...my board is currently in the state below..  So having read this thread i though i was saved...i went about performing your fix below to allow me to dump the firmware where those 2 pads are screwed..bare in mind i have not attempted to reconnect the damage i have done as i understand this should be solved with the picture below..however..in your picture below you isolate pad 101 by severing it from the trace...on my board above i have cut the trace either side and then the pad has come away..do i need to reconnect trace this for your method to work ?  Here is my board below after i have soldered the wires on and then with the switch also shown, the switch is a dpdt type and i have soldered the wires to one side only..   I think everything is as it should be..do i need to connect the drive ribbon cables ? i am using JF 1.7 and a connectivity kit ck3 probe..should this be on red or blue mode ?...when i follow instructions that you said using JF i get a prompt box asking for yes or no before vendor mode...in any case..the drive is not seen where it would usually be detected... Any advice greatly appreaciated.
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« Last Edit: May 08, 2010, 04:20:04 PM by loady »
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Dream
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« Reply #348 on: May 09, 2010, 02:22:10 AM » |
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loady, Install this jumper and dump it. 
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loady
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« Reply #349 on: May 09, 2010, 03:18:56 AM » |
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Thanks dream..i thought it was something simple i was missing..so when i have done that i go ahead with.. hit device --> Power off the drive and switch to resistor --> Power on the drive and hit device again --> switch to 3,3V --> read. will i get that prompt box pop up on JF which i have to answer yes/no to still ? I will try to do this later..got people round for dinner today and im stuffing the beef right now  Thanks again !
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loady
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« Reply #350 on: May 09, 2010, 04:20:31 AM » |
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The drive is being picked up now in JF...i am following a guide to do it using the original MRA hack..not sure if this right now because of the way i have it wired up ?...in short it says to connect drive and get drive properties showing, then power off the drive and switch to the resistor and then press device button at which point you get the prompt box asking you to press yes/no or esc and then to power on/off the drive within 1 second..the guide tells me to press yes and switch the drive back on and i should get good flash chip properties and drive in vendor mode......i just keep getting the dots coming up like its trying to do something and it gets no further..it wont let me repress the device button because it is greyed out...if i power cycle the drive the pc just crashes...i never have this problem when doing normal liteons....my drivers are all correct
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Dream
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« Reply #351 on: May 09, 2010, 04:48:21 AM » |
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Use resistor R 15 OHM and dump it.
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loady
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« Reply #352 on: May 09, 2010, 04:06:10 PM » |
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Ok i will look for a 15 OHM resistor...other than that is everything else ok ?
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Dream
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« Reply #353 on: May 10, 2010, 02:32:45 AM » |
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Ok i will look for a 15 OHM resistor...other than that is everything else ok ?
Looks good measure resistance 3,3V to GND.
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loady
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« Reply #354 on: May 10, 2010, 03:31:50 AM » |
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Sorry..electronics is not my fist subject as i am sure you can see !!...i have a multi meter, i set it to ohm 20k and joined the probes, the display shows some numbers and goes down to 1....i then probed the board..i put one probe to the line where you drew yellow and the other to the blob of solder on the bottom left (im assuming thats a ground)..the meter displays number then goes down to 66...not sure what i am seeing here 
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Dream
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« Reply #355 on: May 10, 2010, 05:13:22 AM » |
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loady, Set the multimeter to 2M it should give you 0.100 - 0.105. 
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« Last Edit: May 10, 2010, 02:59:39 PM by Dream »
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loady
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« Reply #356 on: May 10, 2010, 01:09:46 PM » |
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Hmmm...set that on 20M...the display shows 0.00 and the same when i touch probes together..then again on the points you show..0.00..no movement at all
EDIT:...was that 20M a typo ?...i moved it back round to OHM and set it to 2M and the reading now shows .101 but not 0.101 i think thats the same anyway ? sometimes it show .102 but it can vary but like you said, within that range.
Thanks for YOUR time & patience !!
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« Last Edit: May 10, 2010, 02:14:09 PM by loady »
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Dream
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« Reply #357 on: May 10, 2010, 02:50:40 PM » |
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Jep typo your drive is ready to be dumped.
Sorry
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« Last Edit: May 10, 2010, 02:59:22 PM by Dream »
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loady
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« Reply #358 on: May 10, 2010, 03:27:59 PM » |
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No apolgy needed.
There must be something then that is not right...am i correct to be using jungle flasher ?..the reason i ask is that i get that prompt box come up which i have to select yes to, and do i need to reconnect the ribbon cables back to the drive before i dump...i have still yet to find a 15ohm resistor..not sure if the switch i have is correct..it is a dpdt swith but it has 6 pins (i have connected to one side only)...it has a middle posistion, another posistion where it stays and then the opposite posistion which if let go will revert back to the middle posistion..though i dont see this as being a problem..maybe i am not operating the switch in the correct way ?
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Dream
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« Reply #359 on: May 10, 2010, 03:38:14 PM » |
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Make my easy probe Reply #66 Page 4.
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