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Author Topic: How to repair lite-on pad 101  (Read 155469 times)
tazmania
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« Reply #320 on: May 01, 2010, 04:26:30 PM »

edit: ignore.

i burnt my disc wrong so now it works.

thanks again dream, you're a life saver
« Last Edit: May 01, 2010, 09:37:22 PM by tazmania » Logged
Dream
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« Reply #321 on: May 02, 2010, 03:55:51 AM »

This is for Team Xecuter...  Please meke it more noob friendly.
Go for the 3,3v lines not in the hole´s. Make the connections like Smartxx GND point.





« Last Edit: May 03, 2010, 05:26:13 AM by Dream » Logged
alan_poh
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« Reply #322 on: May 03, 2010, 07:24:05 AM »

DREAM, help me please!!??

so, i lifted the pad 122, after that installed the LT switch 1.5, and the drive is recognized in windows....dumped the key succesfully, flashed and everything is working fine...

but! the problem is that, when i put the drive into the xbox and power it up, everything goes fine without any error or blinking, but when i press the eject button (or press via the gamepad to eject the drive) nothing happens, on the screen i can see "opening" but its not opening.....

the drive when is connected to the ck3, and when i press the eject button on the ck3, the drive ejects without any problem (and closes fine), the laser and the motor are working fine like they should...

the only problem is that i cant eject the drive when its in the xbox.....whats the cause of this problem? is it the pad 122? or maybe those 5 flatcables that are soldered to the pcb (2 yellow, 2 white, red, black) ? those 5 flatcables are soldered, but maybe not good...i checked them and they are as far i can tell fine, checked also with the multimeter...

also, the ribbon and other cables connected to the pcb are good...

please help me, im desperate...

thanx!  Smiley
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Dream
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« Reply #323 on: May 03, 2010, 08:38:09 AM »

I think you have burned your SB. http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=13648.0
I have newer look in to it so cant help you.

DVD power cable pin3 3,3V eject --> 0V closed.

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alan_poh
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« Reply #324 on: May 03, 2010, 02:56:06 PM »

thanx for the help dream!

but i found the problem 30 minutes ago...

desoldered the flatcables and gain soldered....now its working fine....the solution was simple Smiley
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kezz79
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« Reply #325 on: May 03, 2010, 05:33:50 PM »

I'm having a problem with a Liteon 7. Its bricked, the MT gets hot within 5 secs, ONLY when I plug the sata cable in. Here's what happened I was working on 8385 v1 which was having the the mt heating problem when plugged in, I was checking to make sure it was not my xtractor, so i plugged the 7485 up to it and it started doing the hot chip problem too. It was fine before I plugged it up. I fixed the 8385, but the 7485 still does it, I lifted the 122 pin from the mt chip, but still getting hot & still bricked. tried the L-O-eras with no luck. So is it junked. I already have the key for it so its not that big of a loss. Unless some1 knows of a way to fix, I guess I'll be replacing the pcb board. Thanks for any help.
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Dream
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« Reply #326 on: May 04, 2010, 02:50:34 AM »

kezz79,

Measure Resistance 3,3V to GND. (100k-105K is good, bla bla blaa)
If the resistance is low 100-0 ohm Bad.
Do this first, then iam going to give more tips.
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kezz79
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« Reply #327 on: May 04, 2010, 05:46:15 PM »

Hey Dream,

I measured it and its not good, its around 3.0 ohms. I'm probably better off just getting a new pcb board.

Thanks for the help Dream. Your other posts on this subject helped me fix the 8385. Keep up the great work.
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #328 on: May 04, 2010, 10:05:39 PM »

lol dream, 90% of your post are in this thread, huh?
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Dream
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« Reply #329 on: May 05, 2010, 05:55:39 AM »

Hey Dream,

I measured it and its not good, its around 3.0 ohms. I'm probably better off just getting a new pcb board.

Thanks for the help Dream. Your other posts on this subject helped me fix the 8385. Keep up the great work.

1. First Cut yellow and measure 3,3V to GND, if the resistance goes lo to hi game over.
2. Second Cut light blue and measure 3,3V to GND, if the resistance goes lo to hi game over.

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Egooo
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« Reply #330 on: May 05, 2010, 10:47:47 AM »

Welcome   

 I have the problem everything can be seen in the photo, wat now? As lead cable ?

http://wgrajfoto.pl/pokaz/img0510/p5022902small97f0.jpg

But I upload on the web page does not act sorry
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teajunkie
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« Reply #331 on: May 05, 2010, 02:37:33 PM »

Looks like you have cut through a rail.

Check the red boxed area for a break in the trace.


« Last Edit: May 05, 2010, 02:39:53 PM by teajunkie » Logged

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baldy316
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« Reply #332 on: May 05, 2010, 06:11:14 PM »

all pads on pcb are gone
like kkingsley930 on page 7 reply #139
just wondering using your Lt swiitch on pins will work
just to dump fw then get new drive?

unable to get pix as cant find camera
Maximus 360 Litekey was used to get fw first not good
« Last Edit: May 05, 2010, 06:13:53 PM by baldy316 » Logged
iateshaggy
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« Reply #333 on: May 05, 2010, 09:19:10 PM »

that is not the problem, he lifted 101 and it looks like the trace patch job there is botched.  rejoin that trace that is severed in half and then put the 3.3 jumper line back in place and your drive should work so long as u didn't fry anything out.

Looks like you have cut through a rail.

Check the red boxed area for a break in the trace.


« Last Edit: May 05, 2010, 09:26:58 PM by iateshaggy » Logged
Dream
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« Reply #334 on: May 06, 2010, 02:17:21 AM »

baldy316,

Hmmm Maximus board is different. I dont have it here... but i think you can fakir it.

Install the jumper and Maximus Fakir it. Then when you have the FW fix it under epoxy.



iateshaggy you are the man nice guidance. I can retier now. Smiley
« Last Edit: May 06, 2010, 02:24:52 AM by Dream » Logged
iateshaggy
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« Reply #335 on: May 06, 2010, 03:45:06 AM »

hell no, check page one of thread, that is when i retired.  they could change the name of the op and no one would ever even know.
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baldy316
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« Reply #336 on: May 06, 2010, 07:29:42 AM »







sorry aboot pix quailty used phone and magnifying tool
it was just to give you and idea of the traces
thankyou dream & iateshaggy for your help n guidance
« Last Edit: May 06, 2010, 08:56:05 AM by baldy316 » Logged
Egooo
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« Reply #337 on: May 06, 2010, 08:51:22 AM »

The problem is the pad 101  {red box Is ok }

http://wgrajfoto.pl/pokaz/img0510/p5022902small97f0.jpg


This means that only one breast? There is nothing more?


But where I combine this point that read off the key?


http://wgrajfoto.pl/pokaz/img0510/image19877c.jpg
« Last Edit: May 06, 2010, 09:42:00 AM by Egooo » Logged
Dream
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« Reply #338 on: May 06, 2010, 10:17:56 AM »

Egooo,
Page 4, Reply #66.


baldy316,
Maximus fakir it + jumper.
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Dream
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« Reply #339 on: May 07, 2010, 02:33:52 AM »

New solderless method is coming xecuter LT Clip.

So forget the Xecuter LT Switch and Maximus Litekey rebuild boards.
The old rebuild boards are bad@$#!t. Design is poor not for beginners.
Easiest soldering method to dump L-O FW is shown here page 4 reply 66 use it.
If you use LT Switch Or Maximus Litekey fakir it!  Grin




« Last Edit: May 07, 2010, 04:26:07 AM by Dream » Logged
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