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Author Topic: How to repair lite-on pad 101  (Read 155739 times)
krazyone2006
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« Reply #180 on: March 30, 2010, 06:33:14 PM »

SWEET did that arrive yet dream by the way names Dale LOL
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viper2g1
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« Reply #181 on: March 30, 2010, 11:51:00 PM »

I have a 7 series liteon and the r707 does not transmit anything, dont ask - I've tried alot and its confirmed that it does not tranmit anything, I've tried the alternate point on the board and under it too just not tapped the chip itself.. I haven't tried anything in months concerning this but the xbox plays fine so im not too worried.. Is there an alternate way now to retrieve a DVDkey from the 7 series liteon without using r707/alternate points to retrieve it - oh and im on a 8x kernel so no jtag unfortunately.. thanks for suggestions.
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Dream
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« Reply #182 on: April 01, 2010, 12:52:55 AM »

krazyone2006,
Nothing yet. Gonna info you when it comes.

viper2g1,
I think i know your problem.

- When you power the L-O board the MT chip is getting hot fast.
- Measure voltage r707 hole to gnd, it gives you 0V. (r708 hole gives you 3,0V - 3,3V)
- Measure resistance 3,3V and gnd, it gives you 40 - 100 ohm. (normal drive 100k - 105k ohm)

If it is like this it is bad don´t use it or it will blow up.
I know the fix for it but measure first and do MT temp test.
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viper2g1
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« Reply #183 on: April 01, 2010, 05:54:12 PM »

viper2g1,
I think i know your problem.

- When you power the L-O board the MT chip is getting hot fast.
- Measure voltage r707 hole to gnd, it gives you 0V. (r708 hole gives you 3,0V - 3,3V)
- Measure resistance 3,3V and gnd, it gives you 40 - 100 ohm. (normal drive 100k - 105k ohm)

If it is like this it is bad don´t use it or it will blow up.
I know the fix for it but measure first and do MT temp test.

Ok the results:
- Measure voltage r707 hole to gnd, it gave me 0 change in the multimeter. (using DCV 10,25,50,250, and 500)(r708 hole gave me 0 change in the mutlimeter) (same settings),
- Measure resistance 3,3V and gnd, I got a result of a little below 100 ohm using x10... using x100 it shows about 60-70k... it is hard to read because for some reason I cannot calibrate the multimeter to read exactly 0 its off quite a bit.

I dont use multimeters too often, I am pretty sure I did it correctly but I may be mistaken.

Please advise me on the next course of action I should take, Thanks
« Last Edit: April 01, 2010, 06:32:12 PM by viper2g1 » Logged
Dream
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« Reply #184 on: April 02, 2010, 01:44:44 AM »

Sweet analog multimeter.  Grin

http://www.e-bookmanual.com/article/HOW%20TO%20USE%20MULTIMETER.pdf

http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Multimeter

Google your meter.....
« Last Edit: April 02, 2010, 05:54:12 AM by Dream » Logged
viper2g1
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« Reply #185 on: April 02, 2010, 08:00:23 AM »


Thanks for the links Dream,  Alot more descriptive than the meter's manual I used for reference last night.. Good ol radioshack!

I'll post the results when I get home from work
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viper2g1
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« Reply #186 on: April 02, 2010, 03:19:18 PM »

Ok now for the results, I was way off with my reading for the resistance, it was just where you said it would be for voltage being 0 for r707, r708 gave me 0 as well.. I recieved NO reading from it at all.  Now for the resistance it was also close to what you were saying, I recieved 40 but I still am unable to zero it in so I was just guessing at the final number but it will be very close to 40.

What does it mean that I recieved nothing for r708?  My drive functions perfectly playing games just fine BTW.

Will your idea still work with my drive?  I was considering trying to do the MRA/Boxxdr method but was unsure if I could knowing my r707/708 holes were useless to me.

Thanks for your guidance
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viper2g1
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« Reply #187 on: April 04, 2010, 10:29:51 AM »

Dre@m - I figured I'd try to do the Boxxdr on my board and not sure what really happened, I could use some guidance if able.  I still get continuity between all the points, 101 still gets through to sides where the cuts are made and the one below them can still get to 101 as well - according to my test anyway.  I am using 22 Ohm .5 watt resistors, to make the cuts I used a precision knife set and didn't have a fiberglass pen available, went to 2 radioshacks - they didnt have any so I used the knife and scratched away, gently though..Any Ideas? Also Jungle Flasher won't even detect my drive at all - which puzzles me even further.  I'm stumped to say the least.  Here are some pics -

Thanks for the replies and ideas.

[Edit] Images deleted - No use anymore
« Last Edit: April 07, 2010, 01:29:29 AM by viper2g1 » Logged
Dream
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« Reply #188 on: April 04, 2010, 01:58:07 PM »

viper2g1,

Hmmm. You are making things worse.
When the drive is stock, does the mt chip heat up?

I can help you, don’t do anything stupid anymore.
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viper2g1
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« Reply #189 on: April 04, 2010, 02:20:42 PM »

Dream, thanks for saying you can help..  The MT chip doesn't get too warm, at one point it did get hot but I rechecked my board and fixed a short, now it is between cold and slightly warm. Is that normal?

How long should it take to get hot?  I checked only having it plugged in for a couple minutes.
« Last Edit: April 04, 2010, 10:53:37 PM by viper2g1 » Logged
Dream
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« Reply #190 on: April 05, 2010, 03:06:54 AM »

Liteon 7 wont give key. (Probe1 key dump)

Symptoms:

- When you power the L-O board the MT chip is getting hot fast.
- Measure voltage r707 hole to gnd, it gives you 0V. (r708 hole gives you 3,0V - 3,3V)
- Measure resistance 3,3V and gnd, it gives you 40 - 100 ohm. (Normal drive 100k - 105k ohm)

If it is like this it is bad don’t use it or it will blow up.


Fix for this:

Lift pin 122 on MT1309E/MT1319L, now measure 3,3V line and gnd it should give you 100K - 105K ohm.
Newer put pin 122 back again leave it like that, drive will work.






Dump the drive whit MRA/BoxxDr/My probe method. If it fails go for pin lifting method.




« Last Edit: April 13, 2010, 02:24:57 PM by Dream » Logged
Dream
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« Reply #191 on: April 05, 2010, 03:13:00 AM »

viper2g1,

Take all your wires off clean the PCB and take good hires picture.
Then i do repair picture to your drive.
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viper2g1
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« Reply #192 on: April 05, 2010, 12:38:40 PM »

Alright, I did the best I could with the tools I have on hand to remove all the solder on my board, Here are the best pictures I could take, I took many of them so you could see from every angle. 

What would you suggest the best method to lift the pin 122 from the board?  I do not have anything on hand to remove the glue and using a solder iron doesn't seem like a good idea for this one.  Any Ideas on lifting that pin?

Here are all the pics, let me know if you need them posted here instead.  I thought it would be easier this way:

http://s1011.photobucket.com/albums/af232/viper2g1/
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teajunkie
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« Reply #193 on: April 05, 2010, 05:36:33 PM »

Where you cut the two sides of pad 101 you have gone too far, by the looks of it you have cut through the rail underneath!

Repair the rail and rejoin the 2 cuts either side of 101 and your drive should come back to life buddy Wink
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Dream
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« Reply #194 on: April 06, 2010, 01:38:56 AM »

viper2g1,

First try this.

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viper2g1
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« Reply #195 on: April 06, 2010, 05:32:03 AM »

Dre@m, should I try that before of after lifting pin 122? And any suggestion on the best method to do so, if necessary?
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Dream
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« Reply #196 on: April 06, 2010, 05:51:00 AM »

Dre@m, should I try that before of after lifting pin 122? And any suggestion on the best method to do so, if necessary?

First try the normal mra dump. Pin lifting is hard so do this first.
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viper2g1
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« Reply #197 on: April 07, 2010, 01:28:41 AM »

Dream,

Well I did what you showed on your diagram and successfully dumped the Lite-OFW.bin, It loades into the Firmware32 tab and appears to be correct with a DVD key filled in, I did the dump 3 times and the keys match so I'm happy.. I followed the instructions to write the liteon LT firmware from the newest jungleflasher pdf file..  My question to you is what exactly do I need to do before I plug in the drive to test it out?  From what I've read it seems I need to disconnect all wiring and repair any cuts I've made. 

Is this correct:



Should I connect 101 as well or just the line below it? I was thinking using an insulated wireto connect all black points, unless you suggest something different to use.
  Also are my cuts too deep, will it be ok if I just soldered a wire over them or do I need to find a way to repair my cuts?
Thank you for your help, I couldn't have done this without your guidance.
« Last Edit: April 07, 2010, 01:30:50 AM by viper2g1 » Logged
Dream
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« Reply #198 on: April 07, 2010, 02:19:06 AM »

viper2g1,

Sorry repair pic is incorrect.

Correct pic.

« Last Edit: April 07, 2010, 02:24:49 AM by Dream » Logged
viper2g1
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« Reply #199 on: April 07, 2010, 02:25:18 AM »

I will try that and report back, thanks
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