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Dream
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« Reply #100 on: March 08, 2010, 01:37:36 AM » |
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I give up on this.... if anyone is stateside and wants to recover my board and just give me the key, id be willing to pay and ship the board to you for key extraction.... i just want the original.bin if possible and the key.
Measure resistance with multimeter 3,3V to GND. Tell me the resistance.
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The M.A.R.T.
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« Reply #101 on: March 08, 2010, 07:02:54 AM » |
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Nope still 0x80 even when i wired it like you mentioned to.... Should i perform any tests with my multimeter to see if i burned anything out?
And the proper order to pull the key off is to start jungle flasher turn on drive switched to resistor hit intro get 0x72 switch off of resistor hit intro again Ill try a different chipset tomorrow...
Edit: And i tried using the multimeter.... im getting infinite ohms while pad 122 is disconnected so that i can pull the keys off.... im assuming thats normal? Getting 1.78v in between pad 122 and ground with the 22ohm resistor in
Try dosflash instead of Jungleflasher. JF didn't work for me, Dosflash did. Power drive with switch closed (connected), start dosflash, before you enter your portnr. (mine is 0) put switch open (disconnected), type portnr. and give name of dumped fw/orig.bin It doesn't have a multiple keycheck as JF does, so load the orig.bin into JF, see if it has a key and no 00000000, best way to check is first flash 2nd spare drive and see if it works. But I have done multiple for friends and did not ran into a wrong key yet (about 5 done I think). After you made the cfw.bin in JF, put it in the dosflash folder. Go back to dos, do l-o-eras (SATA PORTNUMBER) I do it a couple of times then power off/on the drive and after 2 x it gives status 72 Then dosflash, first time after entering portnr. it stops saying No flashrom or something like that, but when I run dosflash a 2nd time it recognizes and works flawlessly!
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Cata1yst
Newbie

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« Reply #102 on: March 08, 2010, 05:50:11 PM » |
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I give up on this.... if anyone is stateside and wants to recover my board and just give me the key, id be willing to pay and ship the board to you for key extraction.... i just want the original.bin if possible and the key.
Measure resistance with multimeter 3,3V to GND. Tell me the resistance. Measuring from the opposite side like a picture that was posted a couple pages back it was infinite resistance... but yet i shorted nowhere to ground.. Whatever it is i sent it out to be done professionally before i wreak more havoc and end up fubaring this drive to hell and back. Thanks for all the help. Definately a learning experience 
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rulevoid
Newbie

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« Reply #103 on: March 08, 2010, 06:56:30 PM » |
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Im infinite resistance when measuring at the ohm meter points as shown. I did notice though that i accidentally grounded out the unit while i had it plugged in the first time by having the underside of the power connector touch the chassis of the drive. I think i killed the TSOP or something is there a good couple places to check to see what i blew? I'm 100% confident all my wiring is back to stock now and it is all wired correctly, i think its an issue with my having blown something.
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Dream
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« Reply #104 on: March 09, 2010, 01:15:43 AM » |
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Cata1yst where do you live, maybe someone can help you from your location
Malaysian L-O board is here, i look in to it asap.
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #105 on: March 09, 2010, 01:26:24 AM » |
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dreams, i still want some good b4 pics.
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Dream
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« Reply #106 on: March 09, 2010, 03:13:03 AM » |
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Dream
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« Reply #107 on: March 09, 2010, 06:01:45 AM » |
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Strange... Maybe it's new Liteon 9 firmware on this Malaysian board. New JF 1.72 says parse failed, wont open it... DosFlash 1.8 gives same checksum all the time... File size is 256 kt... JF 1.64 says iXtreme v1.60-12X-FINAL-DG-16D2S and shows the key. Hex Edited it all identical. It looks good. Gonna do more testing with it...  Edit1: JF 1.72 detects the drive L-O 9. Won´t open the fw. JF 1.64 says Firmware is a Lite-On encrypted iXtreme OSIG: PLDS DG-16D2S 7485 Firmware type is: iXtreme v1.60-12X-FINAL-DG-16D2S and shows the key. Edit2: it is spooffed $#!t  Edit3: My fellow moder kRypt0n figured this one out. It is modded LiteOn 83850c HW A0A2.
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« Last Edit: March 11, 2010, 01:22:59 AM by Dream »
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mayday295
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« Reply #108 on: March 09, 2010, 01:36:59 PM » |
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Ok so i guess i screwed up my pad 101 because when i put my drive back together (before flashing) it wouldn't open/ unresponsive. I tested those two points with my multimeter and i didnt get any reading. I used a wire and did like the one picture showed where i connect the trace from pad101 to the one below pad 122 only. --I took the readings of those two points (on front of board) and i read 102k ohm. So is this all i need to do, and my drive should be working like normal now? (for normal use). Or do i need to connect more wires like the other pictures show? (for normal use).
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Dream
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« Reply #109 on: March 09, 2010, 02:04:22 PM » |
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mayday295, Fix the pin/pad 122 cut and yuor drive is repaired. 
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« Last Edit: March 09, 2010, 02:08:53 PM by Dream »
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mayday295
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« Reply #110 on: March 09, 2010, 02:32:35 PM » |
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Ok that is what i did, also
After i first cut the traces, i hooked it up to read the key, and all went well- i then shut off 360xtractor/drive, and disconnected...... Was i supposed to press send outro/ata reset before i power off and disconnect? (could this be my problem?)
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Dream
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« Reply #111 on: March 09, 2010, 02:36:17 PM » |
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Ok that is what i did, also
After i first cut the traces, i hooked it up to read the key, and all went well- i then shut off 360xtractor/drive, and disconnected...... Was i supposed to press send outro/ata reset before i power off and disconnect? (could this be my problem?)
Do you have the original firmware?
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mayday295
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« Reply #112 on: March 09, 2010, 02:39:55 PM » |
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I got the dummy.bin with full extract method so i assume yes.
I will try to power on the drive (stock mode) now and see if it works, if it doesnt then couldn't i just hook it up to pc and click send outra/ata reset in jungle flasher?
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Dream
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« Reply #113 on: March 09, 2010, 02:42:57 PM » |
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I got the dummy.bin with full extract method so i assume yes.
What??? Dummy??? You mean Lite-OFW.bin.
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mayday295
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« Reply #114 on: March 09, 2010, 02:44:02 PM » |
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oops, ya thats what i meant
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Dream
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« Reply #115 on: March 09, 2010, 02:46:55 PM » |
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oops, ya thats what i meant
OK is it showing the Key and other information in JF 1.72.
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mayday295
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« Reply #116 on: March 09, 2010, 02:48:54 PM » |
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ya and i compared my other flashes to make sure key is correct.
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Dream
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« Reply #117 on: March 09, 2010, 02:51:14 PM » |
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ya and i compared my other flashes to make sure key is correct.
Ok your are fine just flash it.
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mayday295
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« Reply #118 on: March 09, 2010, 02:57:05 PM » |
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ok thanks a ton!!! I just connected the drive and it works fine, so now i will flash it!
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mayday295
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« Reply #119 on: March 09, 2010, 05:24:33 PM » |
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maybe someone can help with another problem... When i try to flash i start intro/id and i power cycle 360xtractor pro but it only goes to 0x52 status code, how do i get it into 0x72 to flash? --Also i tried pressing eject button once on 360xtractor and nothing happens either... so just to check i hooked it back up to xbox and everything works fine. Just can't get 0x72!!! EDIT: I was following this guide for the flashing part: http://www.hackforums.net/showthread.php?tid=285278&highlight=0x52It says, " your drive traces are repaired, put the drive back together and proceed to flash, attaching the SATA cable and your original power cable to the drive. open Jungleflasher and your drive should be detected. If your drive is not detected and you have no eject on the drive then you have not connected the cut traces back up propperly." --It wont detect my drive, or eject. However like i said before it is working fine in the 360, powers/ejects/reads games fine. i will be on here tomorrow most of the day so if any one is available then.
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« Last Edit: March 09, 2010, 11:37:21 PM by mayday295 »
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