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Author Topic: How to repair lite-on pad 101  (Read 155455 times)
excellmp3uk
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« Reply #420 on: May 30, 2010, 11:47:02 AM »

Hi Dream,
Thank you again for all your help, ive tried every fix you've mentioned within this topic, even grounded 3.3v.
I still cant get the board to be recognised & in theory it should. I'm really stuck now, im thinking of just buying another new 360 (even though this is a brand new 1).
Time for me to give up on it & try to help others on this forum, thank you for your help.
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Dream
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« Reply #421 on: May 30, 2010, 01:37:50 PM »

Hi Dream,
Thank you again for all your help, ive tried every fix you've mentioned within this topic, even grounded 3.3v.
I still cant get the board to be recognised & in theory it should. I'm really stuck now, im thinking of just buying another new 360 (even though this is a brand new 1).
Time for me to give up on it & try to help others on this forum, thank you for your help.

I can help you, how bad is it?
Send the pcb to me.
I do it for free.
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Dream
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« Reply #422 on: May 30, 2010, 02:38:20 PM »

Some one asked me that can he use my pictures.
The answer is yes.
You can say that it is your work, i don’t mind.
As long as they are correct repair pictures.
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miclova
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« Reply #423 on: May 30, 2010, 09:48:08 PM »

Question, I see the repair for the 101 pad, the only diagrams I'm seeing is if I want to put it back together. I'm not seeing any showing where the switch is connecting to the fix unless I missed it. Here what I've got, trying to repair someone else's work.

Update I see the switch diagram now, I have a 2 prong switch, do I have to use a 3 prong? Currently in dosflash32 V1.8 I'm getting the drive properties info, but mtk vendor intro is failing.

New Update: I cleaned the board and started over, these are the new pics. now I'm not getting power when I hook up to the connectivity kit, no blue light (Maximus 360 xtractor2). If I disconnect the jumper over the orig. 101 pad it will come on.







« Last Edit: May 31, 2010, 02:49:03 PM by miclova » Logged
excellmp3uk
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« Reply #424 on: May 31, 2010, 05:30:51 AM »

Hi Dream,

Thank you ever so much for offering to get the keys for me,

I'm very good at surface mount work & soldering etc, but this has stumped me.
the board does not look in a mess at all just via 122 is missing, i usually dont like anything getting the better of me, but unfortunately this has. If you don't mind i will post the board to you, send me your addy please.

Oh & you are a DREAM ;-)  (Perfect User Name) lol.
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Dream
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« Reply #425 on: May 31, 2010, 06:38:09 AM »

miclova,

Post better pictures. I think you have lifted pad.
Wires are ok and 2 prong switch is fine.

Edit. Home CK Xmas edition --> http://dream.pic.fi/kuvat/Xbox+360/Home+CK/Home+CK+3.avi
« Last Edit: May 31, 2010, 12:44:00 PM by Dream » Logged
miclova
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« Reply #426 on: May 31, 2010, 02:51:04 PM »

Hey Dream.

Let me know what you think about the updated pics
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Dream
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« Reply #427 on: May 31, 2010, 03:01:33 PM »

Hey Dream.

Let me know what you think about the updated pics

Short-circuit --> Clean --> re do all.
Do it like this:  http://dream.pic.fi/kuvat/Xbox+360/Soldering+school/Liteon+Part1/

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miclova
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« Reply #428 on: May 31, 2010, 04:35:52 PM »

Dream,

Tried your suggestion, still not getting anything, so here is a pic of the board clean, do you see anything that could be causing the short?

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iateshaggy
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« Reply #429 on: May 31, 2010, 09:29:39 PM »

u need to use smaller wire and less solder.  make your wire the exact length and shape as my picture.  if you still need to dump the drive,  attach the resistor to some wire and your grounding point by the power jack and omit the switch if you have an extractor pro or ck3 to power the drive and probe 122 to intro (or use a switch if you are using 360 for power).

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jivex5k
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« Reply #430 on: June 01, 2010, 08:21:49 PM »

Wow,
I've been following this thread for a little while now and first of all would like to say I am amazed at the information people are sharing here.
Dream, your passion for this kind of thing is vastly evident upon these pages, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
On to my situation:

First of all, I burned my dvd board....as in fried it. Not bad, but two pins got baked a bit as you'll see in the pic.
I'd like to send you the board dream, but before that maybe this board has some hope.
Let's take this through what i've done:

After reading up on DVD Firmware hacking for the 360 I soon realized I had the dreaded 93450C2 (yes 2...)
Sooooo
I reviewed many different hack methods, Homemade Probes, Xeceuter chips (i know that's spelled wrong) etc....
I wanted to use a method where I had the materials around so after reading the MRA hack in the JF tutorial I found the BoxxDr Method.
Enter Failure Zone:
Being a novice at PCB board work I did actually practice a bit on an old dvd burner (not from xbox) we had lyin around, but I guess it wasn't enough.
After many failed soldering attempts on my actual Xbox DVD board I decided to take a break and start fresh the next day. Every time I would try to power on the DVD it was not opening and the Xbox was flashing green in the middle. Well after some counseling from a friend on soldering, and watching some soldering videos, I managed to fix the mess I created the following day, but lost pad 101 in the process. I searched up pad 101 repair and found this thread.
The following is what I have done to rectify it:

Damn that pic is blurry i'll borrow the good cam from work tomorrow.

Now this worked to an extent, it would open the DVD player and such, and my computer even detected it in JF (latest version) as PLDS with 9345 firmware.
I tried to get the key but the switch was doing nothing at all in the software. I hit the Intro / Device ID but it would always just continue to scan or send information regardless of power cycling/ flipping the switch.
Well, I decided I would at least get my stock DVD working again so I desoldered the switch and plugged my dvd back in to test it. Well...it lit on fire. The 2 pads all the way on the right side of the same trace that runs over 101, you can almost see them in this pic burned but ill get a better one.
Is this because I did not reconnect Pad 122?
I quickly realized my mistake and shut the damn thing off with a speed i didn't know I possessed.
Then I resoldered the switch back in place to see if my dvd player would at least power back on and open....no luck. Now I am just getting the green blinking light in the middle of the xbox with no way to open the DVD...I truly think I have fried my board here and am SOL on ever extracting the key or even getting it to work again.
So....are there any other suggestions or ideas? I realize the picture sucks and i'll get a much better one tommorow.
Hopefully this doesn't turn out to be a 200 dollar learning experience.


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Dream
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« Reply #431 on: June 02, 2010, 01:07:07 AM »

jivex5k, miclova,

Firmware dump.

Clean The L-O board all wires off/ solder off.
Use smaller wire awg30 or RJ45 cable.
Make easy probe page 4 reply 66.
Before powering the drive allways measure resistance 3,3V to GND 95K ohms - 110 K ohms is good anything else is bad.










« Last Edit: June 02, 2010, 01:17:37 AM by Dream » Logged
excellmp3uk
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« Reply #432 on: June 02, 2010, 01:46:53 AM »

OMG Dream!

I started cleaning my board up ready to post & i saw a tiny, tiny scratch on a 1.8v track (2 tracks below pin 101 via), i tested continuity, fixed & used your probe to read, UNBELIEVABLE !!! weeks & weeks & weeks of trying & it was a scratch that failed me.
I want to thank you ever so much for your help & my probe2 is going in the bin now, Your probe is being used from now on, thank you again x
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Dream
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« Reply #433 on: June 02, 2010, 04:12:12 AM »

Nice i use easy probe2 as well.
Easy to use one pin and two holes, same thing when you play with your girlfried/wife.
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excellmp3uk
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« Reply #434 on: June 02, 2010, 04:47:53 AM »

LMAO - too right Cheesy

So am i right in thinking that to get JF to return 72 - the 3.3v line needs to be grounded & then power returned back to MT chip to read.
See i also like to know how things work so i can solve future problems Wink
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Dream
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« Reply #435 on: June 02, 2010, 06:28:30 AM »

Just do as you have been told… Never…

We cut the MT chips pins 101 and 122 off from 3,3V line.
Then we fix 3,3V line to power rest off the drive. (MRA 3,3V JumpWire)
Then we “drop” floating 2,5V pin101/122 voltage to “1,8V”. (resistor to gnd @ Easy Probe it @ MRA it @ BoxxDr it @ Xecuter Probe2...)
HW hack is done thanks to Geremia, MRA, C4E, Team JF and all the software/HW guys.

Then you broke it and we try to help you.

« Last Edit: June 02, 2010, 06:35:15 AM by Dream » Logged
jivex5k
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« Reply #436 on: June 03, 2010, 07:15:35 PM »

Interesting to see what exactly is getting re-routed.

Alright, I have the materials to make the probe and will attempt the fix on it tonight. Dream if I can't get it to work i'll send the board, I did get your PM and thank you for offering to get the key.

I was reading this thread some more however and it seems like in order for a probe to work you need a connectivity kit. I have been powering the DVD from my xbox, is this gonna be a problem?

I was thinking about making a connectivity kit but I believe it is above my current skill level, I'm extremely new to hardware hacking.
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #437 on: June 03, 2010, 09:21:52 PM »

to use a probing method you either need a connectivity kit or another set of hands.
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Dream
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« Reply #438 on: June 03, 2010, 11:44:54 PM »

You can use easy probe and power the drive with xbox360.
I have done it works fine. No extra hands needed.
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jivex5k
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« Reply #439 on: June 04, 2010, 10:41:59 PM »

Alright, I just measured my resistance and its 101k ohms so that should be good.
Soldered the wires on the front, however I noticed the front is fried a bit too but you'll see I got the nice camera today.
Also, on the back trace I soldered a small wire to it because the trace is stripped and I cant get solder to run in there like in the picture. I don't think this was necessary in my particular case since the pads on that trace are fried off.
If i need to i'll grab some conductive glue.
Also, pin 122 looks a bit ragged i'm not positive it will work.

I tested it just now and it's simply blinking green and not being recognized. I tried powering it on while holding the probe on pin 122 and it has the same result.

Here are the pics:



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