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Dream
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« Reply #300 on: April 30, 2010, 12:18:49 AM » |
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jasoncmt24, No sanding newer zero. Sanding means metal dust, metal dust means short-circuit. Clean it and fix it to MRA. Measure RESISRANCE 3,3V to GND. 2 ohms means short-circuit or blown MT chip.  |
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jasoncmt24
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« Reply #301 on: April 30, 2010, 12:56:54 AM » |
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Thanks for the help. I think it is grounding out. My first trace is pretty beat up, plus I have the jumper wire connected to 101 and the trace. So, could I just fix the 101 trace back to normal and take the red wire from the switch and connect that to 22 instead?
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Dream
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« Reply #302 on: April 30, 2010, 01:05:48 AM » |
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Thanks for the help. I think it is grounding out. My first trace is pretty beat up, plus I have the jumper wire connected to 101 and the trace. So, could I just fix the 101 trace back to normal and take the red wire from the switch and connect that to 22 instead?
You cant power the pad 101 if you are dumping the drive. If you power it you cant dump it. |
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Dream
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« Reply #304 on: April 30, 2010, 01:22:13 AM » |
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BoxxDR Pad 122 dump  |
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jasoncmt24
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« Reply #305 on: April 30, 2010, 01:33:45 AM » |
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Timo, what should my multimeter read in at 101 with the 2 cuts made, 0 or Infinite? Right now it is reading and I thought it should be infinite. If that is the case can that cause the red rings with the no ejecting problem? I will try your fix when I get home in the AM
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Dream
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« Reply #306 on: April 30, 2010, 01:51:57 AM » |
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Timo, what should my multimeter read in at 101 with the 2 cuts made, 0 or Infinite? Right now it is reading and I thought it should be infinite. If that is the case can that cause the red rings with the no ejecting problem? I will try your fix when I get home in the AM
Pad101/122 Zero/Infinite/OL to 3,3V line is good. When the pad 101 and pad 122 is cut off from 3,3V line you cant eject the drive it is normal. RRoD comes when there is short-circuit. Blinking green when the Pad101/122 is not powered from 3,3V line. Measure resistance 3,3V to GND it should give you 100K - 105K ohm resistance. (when you have done BoxxDr cuts and 3,3V jumpers) |
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« Last Edit: April 30, 2010, 02:43:55 AM by Dream »
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alan_poh
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« Reply #307 on: April 30, 2010, 04:08:31 AM » |
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thanx, it worked!!! that pad isnt lifted... the xbox isnt blinking anymore green and it can be recognized in windows.....but i have problem now that when inserting a game into it, after the tray closes, it begins to spin (i hear) in some strange way, and after a few seconds of chukling and strange noises it stops to read (on the screen i can se "reading")...could this be a sign that the laser has gone? and that white ribbon that goes attached to the pcb from the laser, well i accidentaly scratched a little of that tiny gold trace on him (those little gold traces at the end of the ribbon).... do i have to change the laser and the ribbon? or is something connected with the pcb ? what's the reason of this behaviour? i have a 74850 spare drive, so i could change them.. note: this drive was working well, for months, so the problem isnt the key and the flashing, that part is good... thanx |
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tazmania
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« Reply #308 on: April 30, 2010, 08:00:53 PM » |
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so i put everything together and it worked fine but for some reason my drive doesn't always eject when i press the button. it's random and it's getting annoying. anyone have any idea why it might do that?
edit: alright things aren't perfect. whenever i put a game in it just says open tray and doesn't load up the game. common problem or what? please don't tell me i have to reflash something or solder something again. btw this is happening only for backups, i tried putting in an official disc and it loaded it up.
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« Last Edit: April 30, 2010, 08:48:17 PM by tazmania »
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jasoncmt24
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« Reply #309 on: April 30, 2010, 11:13:25 PM » |
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Okay so I got this thing working today.... I managed to dump the key to a file. Now I am back to nightmares again. Did I miss a step somewhere?
Is there something I was suppose to do before putting the PCB back to stock? I got the key, turned off ck3 and re-did the pcb to begin erase and write. Was I suppose to do something in between there?
Once hooked back up I was unable to find the drive in jungleflasher and drive would not eject. Redid some wires on board and drive ejected but no detection. Kept getting 0x7f. Now screwed up my whole upper trace and the two starting trace pads are gone. Will send pics with my next question.
Jay
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jasoncmt24
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« Reply #310 on: April 30, 2010, 11:50:03 PM » |
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Allready have key and need to get drive working again. Everything is still in good shape accept yellow line in below picture. What is my fix? Yellow Lines = Bad Trace and Pads Green = Still Good 101 & 122 still good. Blue line Question - Is this trace a ground? When I check the board for contunity it shows this trace and the ground as connected. The board is completely clean though and no solder anywhere. I am lost as to if this is shorting out somewhere? Any help would be appreciated as I allready have the drives key. All voltages are confirmed as correct, 3.3, 5, and 12..... Jay  |
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« Last Edit: April 30, 2010, 11:57:34 PM by jasoncmt24 »
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Dream
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« Reply #311 on: May 01, 2010, 02:47:45 AM » |
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Liteon voltage lines.  |
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jasoncmt24
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« Reply #312 on: May 01, 2010, 05:13:38 AM » |
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Should this work as a fix to restore back to default so I can flash this thing since the 101 trace is bad but not the 101 pad? I need a way get 3.3v to 101 to restore it right?  OR  or  THIS IS WHAT MY BOARD LOOKS LIKE  |
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« Last Edit: May 01, 2010, 05:48:54 AM by jasoncmt24 »
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Dream
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« Reply #313 on: May 01, 2010, 06:10:34 AM » |
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Dream
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« Reply #314 on: May 01, 2010, 06:37:19 AM » |
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Liteon 3,3V line arrowed.  |
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jasoncmt24
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« Reply #315 on: May 01, 2010, 09:11:10 AM » |
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Thank you so much, I think I am gonna jump off a roof soon, Have not slept much in the last few days. Anyway, Got it all setup as you instructed. Noticed where the ground was since it burn a small hole in the board. The last pic in the chain is grounding out from your picture above. I cut the traces to remove it from the chain but it still has like 5v in it? Is there a fix around that last pin? I am pretty sure it is under the chip. Everything else checks out as far as volts go. I tried checking for resistance but not positive I am doing it right with my multimeter. Can't seem to get it to read anything though. So I am gonna guess and say I am at 0 which of course is bad. Anyway, any suggestions on what to do to get around that pin?
Got CK3 to come on now that I got rid of that 1 pin but the cd drive still won't open.
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Dream
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« Reply #316 on: May 01, 2010, 09:41:09 AM » |
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BoxxDr sells new PCBs. buy new board.
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jasoncmt24
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« Reply #317 on: May 01, 2010, 10:02:48 AM » |
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Okay thanks, Allready made the call. Bummed but oh well.
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Dream
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« Reply #318 on: May 01, 2010, 01:49:29 PM » |
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How can you solder Xecuter LT $#!t.
It doesnt line up worst rebuild ever. It makes me want to cry.
I have one here now so going to show how it should be build and how we can use it as a tool.
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Dream
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« Reply #319 on: May 01, 2010, 02:54:36 PM » |
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« Last Edit: May 03, 2010, 11:53:21 AM by Dream »
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