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Dream
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« Reply #1200 on: November 01, 2011, 03:53:45 PM » |
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Yeah, I was trying to look for the "now" way. Sadly i fail at life. Nice to see you around again dream. Once I Get this board fixed i'll be sure to follow that method from now until forever. **** that whole soldering suicide. Nah i Just suck. Lol.
If u have your boad i can try to fix it...
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f0r54ken
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« Reply #1201 on: November 02, 2011, 02:53:05 AM » |
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Oh no thanks Dream, Shag's on the case. I Greatly appreciate it though. I've seen your posts around this thread. You're good at what you do and to help us all for free is commendable. Now I'm not trying to Ride yo **** or nothing. Lol, But you honor us with your presence here. Thanks for being a pioneer in lt modification.
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f0r54ken
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« Reply #1202 on: November 02, 2011, 03:01:41 AM » |
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Honestly both of you guys are legends in my books. Lol. High Fives all around.
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1203 on: November 04, 2011, 07:41:13 PM » |
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drive finished, pm sent. 
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« Last Edit: November 04, 2011, 07:44:39 PM by iateshaggy »
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f0r54ken
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« Reply #1204 on: November 05, 2011, 07:47:21 PM » |
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Haha man you don't know how much I appreciate this. Thanks dude I'll make sure to not solder with a cheap iron anymore. For future extractions with other drives do you guys just suggest the ck3 kit? I'm assuming the mra hack is outdated.
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1205 on: November 05, 2011, 08:24:50 PM » |
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u want to use pmt, it is compatible with any previous probe by simply putting a switch in the #6 3.3v wire of the power cable for the drive.
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f0r54ken
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« Reply #1206 on: November 05, 2011, 10:57:20 PM » |
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Copy that. Thanks a lot shags.
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Dr.Plato
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« Reply #1207 on: November 07, 2011, 05:32:04 PM » |
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hey there
I could most likely answer this question myself but I thought why not give it a shot and ask people with experience in this. So here it goes: I flashed my drive yesterday using the mra mod and it worked out right away (I work in electronics so soldering is piece of cake...) After removing mra, connecting cut traces and putting everything back together, drive wouldnt respond anymore. Tried this and that nothing helped. Now I measured between 3,3V and GND -> ~200Ohm. So I took of all the chips 3,3V pins of the pcb. All except no. 101 have about 400Ohm to GND. Pin 101 has about 100K. chip = dead right? got no clue whatsoever what could possibly have happened. I am 100% sure I didnt connect power the wrong way, no shortcuts either (Im working using a microscope)...
thx Peter
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1208 on: November 07, 2011, 09:29:33 PM » |
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101 to grd is supposed to be 100k. take some pics of all work on the board and i'll tell u if i see something.
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Andryu
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« Reply #1209 on: November 10, 2011, 07:59:39 PM » |
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Is it possible to use mt1309e with external spi instead of mt1319l? As far as i know they have same pinout and the only difference is external/internal spi. Can anyone correct me?
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1210 on: November 11, 2011, 10:32:51 AM » |
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i'm gonna guess no, that is why we repair the boards and dump them the normal way.
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f0r54ken
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« Reply #1211 on: November 13, 2011, 07:15:51 PM » |
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For the record. The new drive is flashed and confirmed working. THANKS SHAG!
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menexxx
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« Reply #1212 on: November 27, 2011, 09:43:16 PM » |
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Hi guys, my homemade ck3 did a short-circuit, so the drive got damaged. Now i've repaired some traces, the laser ligth of the drive starts but i guess there's a short-circuit on the mt chip. Because this chip gets hot when i connect the drive. The short circuit does when i rebuild the mra traces of an old flash that I DONT DID. The drive is not detected by the computer. The drive doesent eject. The drive's laser only "turn on" a red ligth.
My question is. It's another method for rebuilding the mra traces without soldering on the mra traces?? I mean, soldering in the MTCHIP side of the board.
THANKS GUYS!
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« Last Edit: November 28, 2011, 08:36:42 PM by menexxx »
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serath
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« Reply #1213 on: November 30, 2011, 03:09:27 PM » |
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A friend sent his xbox to me for a firmware update. I flashed it back with the old MRA hack, and as you can see, I did a nice job on the soldering, so I'm not a soldering retard. However, I'm thinking that the owner probably tried to update the drive himself from the looks of things. I'm guessing power was plugged in upside down. Any suggestions on a fix? Or can I send the board to someone to grab the drive key for me? I cleaned up a bunch of the solder on the face of the board. It was pretty bad. Thanks, guys! (Yes I'm willing to pay :p)  
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ttz
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« Reply #1214 on: November 30, 2011, 05:59:32 PM » |
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this guy (liar) told me he did nothing! I don't need csi miami to know what he did and he also tried to fix it He has the key and the 360 is ready to play again (with another liteon) but i'd like to fix this pcbhints? (i saw how to fix in previous posts but this pcb seems in a worse situation to me)   
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« Last Edit: December 01, 2011, 11:47:13 AM by ttz »
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ttz
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« Reply #1215 on: November 30, 2011, 06:07:50 PM » |
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-
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« Last Edit: December 01, 2011, 11:43:41 AM by ttz »
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1216 on: November 30, 2011, 08:18:21 PM » |
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its not worth fixing once u have the key. there are plenty of phat liteon boards floating around for 0-$10.
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ttz
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« Reply #1217 on: December 01, 2011, 11:46:41 AM » |
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well I have time to spend  I want to try!
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1219 on: January 20, 2012, 07:23:51 PM » |
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undo shorts and do the exact same thing as the one in the very first post. a better picture of the underside would help.
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