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djblade17
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« Reply #1180 on: August 25, 2011, 09:42:45 AM » |
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Yeah was trying to save that to last I do have the tools to do it just have never done it before...  I need a alternative point to the black circle I forgot that i tore that point up months ago there is no trace anymore Actually could i get a wiring diagram for dumping key and one for drive just normal |
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Screamo
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Posts: 6
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« Reply #1181 on: September 06, 2011, 08:45:06 PM » |
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My LiteOn 7 is burned on Tx,Rx. How can I fix this ?
30 - 400 ohms maybe burned pin 122 tx/rx -> 86 ohms
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« Last Edit: September 07, 2011, 10:11:23 AM by Screamo »
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erikxcore
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Posts: 1
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« Reply #1182 on: September 29, 2011, 01:20:57 AM » |
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Hey guys, sorry for the typical noob first post! I extracted my key succesfully, but I suppose I used too much conductive paste on my repair which caused my 101 pad to blow out. I think it bled on over to another pad/line. Hence there's a hole in my PCB! http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7030/20110927185731939.jpghttp://img850.imageshack.us/img850/9427/201109271857484211.jpg - pictures, I know there's too much paste; any suggestions as to how to get rid of it besides scraping would be appreciated! I repaired the hole with paste (just filled it in really) but the board still wouldn't power on correctly (middle flashing light on Xbox, not detected with PC) I then soldered a wire from front to back (not sure if location is correct) but now my CK3 knock-off dongle is no longer turning on when connected to drive (turns on fine when drive is not connected) which leads me to believe I soldered something wrong, although I have no idea what! http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/504/20110929001212656.jpghttp://img11.imageshack.us/img11/8903/2011092900062496.jpg - pictures of solder Any advice/suggestions? I've been through this topic a few times but haven't found much that applies to my situation. My phone (Droid, of course) really won't take any better pictues, but any MS Paint diagrams would be appreciated. I'm almost about to buy another drive at this point, however :x. I think the wires are soldered to the correct positions (unless on the rear pcb the wire needs to be soldered to the actual pad?), but then again I'm no electrical engineer. Thanks in advance :/. |
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Defocused
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Posts: 2
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« Reply #1183 on: October 20, 2011, 04:52:24 PM » |
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Hey Dream, and yall other wankers. I cant express my gratitude for all the work that has been put in to this forum, and especially this topic. I have read almost all 60+ pages through, inclusive How to repair Liteon 7,8,9 Pad´s (MRA/LT Switch/BoxxDr went wrong), and still find myself confused on how to fix my particular board. Pictures here: https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/11199673/1/Liteon?h=59822dI have in my inventory: Xtractor 2+spear, via card 6241, liteon 74850c, broken lt switch, 25w soldering iron(wanna get a 15w pointed tip), "Kynar" 30awg wire, strong wire (for GND/3.3V), All to make easyprobe 2, except resistor :/, I dont have/cant get: 15/20 ohm resistor (im in dk, cant seem to buy it anywhere on the net, only business to business) This is how i read your tut on my fix: 1. Always install black jump wire  2.Apply wires after this picture: https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/11199673/1/Liteon?h=59822d#gallery:03. Use probe that i dont have :/ (can i convert spear to work?) 4. Thx for all you help, its muchly appreciated |
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1184 on: October 22, 2011, 11:06:06 PM » |
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without that resistor, you are a sitting duck. can u get the mra probe for your connectivity kit?
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leggy
Newbie
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« Reply #1185 on: October 23, 2011, 04:07:12 PM » |
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Hi New to all this hope i am alright here with first post. Reading through pages cos reversed power trying to read key. Drive now dead but want to read the key. Tried to measure 3.3v to ground got nothing. Then did the 2 cuts on back of board 101 and 122. Put in 3.3v link and got 98K ohms. Thought i cracked it but then pulled r207 off. Put i back and measured again still ok. Powerd up drive to pull key got code x80 buy MTchip gets hot quick so turned off. Removed 3.3v link and powered up not getting hot. Cant find a short. Removed r207 incase it was shorted and linked 3.3v to pad 101. Still no luck.   Need some advice please. |
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« Last Edit: October 26, 2011, 03:41:52 AM by leggy »
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madhartigan
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« Reply #1186 on: October 28, 2011, 10:13:44 PM » |
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Could anyone provide some point to point instructions for how I can repair this LiteOn so I can get it back in working order? I've damaged the one via beyond repair and in doing that I lifted the severed trace. I started trying to do the MRA hack a while ago and I wasn't very proficient at the time. That was more than a year ago and my soldering skills have vastly improved. I just don't understand the circuitry aspect of things yet. I've tried to get through as much of this thread as I can. 60+ pages is a lot. Unfortunately, I'm still left with uncertainties. I'm not sure in what instance I would be using a resistor, if at all. I'm not sure whether severing the via (near the #2 that's been printed on the PCB) from its trace needs to be fixed or not. Basically I just need a "paint by numbers" sort of suggestion so I can perform the proper fix. Thank you for any help you may be able to offer. While I'm awaiting replies, I'll try to read through this again and perhaps it'll sink in better. Here are images of the board:      |
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madhartigan
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« Reply #1187 on: October 29, 2011, 03:02:54 PM » |
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. . . Would this be the proper fix?  |
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1188 on: October 29, 2011, 03:03:28 PM » |
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yes.
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madhartigan
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« Reply #1189 on: October 29, 2011, 03:05:32 PM » |
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thank you!! /dumbquestions (edit: for now.  ) update: worked!! Thank you!! |
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« Last Edit: October 29, 2011, 09:52:38 PM by madhartigan »
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f0r54ken
Newbie
Posts: 9
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« Reply #1190 on: October 30, 2011, 09:33:29 PM » |
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Hey guys This is my first time here. And sorry If I'm being a noob at all but I spent 16 hours yesterday trying to fix This. I follows some tutorials trying to do something similar to the mra soldering mod. IT didn't work out I'm sure I just failed at it but I heard the prode method will work no matter what fw version. I decided I would try that again. So here's my problem. I've tried to repair the traces identically as they were before but when loading up on my xbox to test It I get three red rings code 0020. Sometimes It still boots proper but then the drive does not respond to the eject option. I can't tell If maybe there was a special point I forgot to solder or maybe soldered what I shouldn't have. I have also used my multimeter to test that the contact was being made By pushing into the little holes at the end of each trace. I don't know how to use it well enough to check the power levels or resistance though. With uploading some pictures I was hoping someone could see what I may have forgotten to solder or what not. I believe that none of the actually hole contacts (ie pad 101 or 122) have been damaged as they still beep for me with the multimeter. For the most part that's pretty much it. I'll post some pics see if you guys can let me know what's up. Current edit: I've also discovered when you look closely I Have some scratches on my board. I put my multimeter up to the scratches and tested random contact points. Sure enough It responded with a beep. I appears the entire board is conductive and a scratch might cause random points too make contact when they shouldn't that might be my problem. Does anyone know how I can get my hands cons something to stop the scratches conductivity?    |
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f0r54ken
Newbie
Posts: 9
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« Reply #1192 on: October 31, 2011, 05:53:35 AM » |
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Here's an update, I tried taking all of the solder off to test the contact points and none of them are giving continuity. So that's good. I'm not worried about the scratches anymore I just ran a wire and soldered very specific contact points. In fact they were so specific I followed the exact instructions from page 2 that dream put down. Front and backside. When that procured the same result I took the points off At which Then I pulled off R207 and with the grace and nimbleness of helen keller drunk I manage to get it back on for the most part (r027 Does have continuity with the 3.3v solder point 1 centimeter away from it.) I don't believe this board is beyond repair. Apparently I can't use a multimeter properly either. I'll hit the ends of a 220 ohm resistor and see a 220 ohm reading. Without changing the settings I'll test the power pin solder points that dream always tells everyone too test for 100ohm and get absolutely no results. My meter will just say O.L Which in my mind after hours upon hours of degradation probably represents some hillbilly saying ON-LIMITED! (meaning unlimited.) either way I'm at wits end with this thing. I'd like to more so find someone who can manage to recover The firmware bin and Send the pcb back to me So I can blow it up With something preferably something that would also set it on fire... If you guys can see what I might need to do or connect I am to understand each circumstance is unique or special. My only hope is that dream or someone who is as good as him will miraculously pop up and say "A - B" "C- D" And I can get this thing to boot even. I'm at about 24 hours now and never want to see a soldering iron again once this is done. http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z365/f0r54ken/IMAG0080.jpghttp://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z365/f0r54ken/IMAG0079.jpghttp://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z365/f0r54ken/IMAG0081.jpg |
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1193 on: October 31, 2011, 05:05:30 PM » |
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f0r54ken, if u want to ship the drive to my shop, i can help.
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ttz
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« Reply #1194 on: October 31, 2011, 05:42:11 PM » |
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f0r54ken, if u want to ship the drive to my shop, i can help.
good luck ihateshaggy, f0r54ken don't touch it again! Well, it's my turn...I got this drive,modded by another person or, imho, the customer...probably he was trying to update to lt 2.0 by himself. He said the drive stopped working while using 360 (I tried to turn the 360 on and i got a green blinking light). Pic is here, i checked all this points (red lines) and I got the "magic beep" but when i turn the ck3 on I read just 1,07v (and I know the right value is 3,3v). Also the voltages under R710(0,04v) / R708(1,18v) / R707(1,18v) / R709(0,11) aren't correct. MPX01 1,18v , same value for C03R207 left side 3,3v right side 1,18v I scratched the board in various places to check shorts and nothing, and I cleaned a little bit of solder in excess. Hints? Thanks!  will this work? http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=14040.msg124219#msg124219imho yes  |
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« Last Edit: October 31, 2011, 07:34:41 PM by ttz »
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f0r54ken
Newbie
Posts: 9
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« Reply #1195 on: October 31, 2011, 05:56:55 PM » |
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Lol Yeah I'm usually pretty good with this kind of stuff. Maybe my soldering iron is too cheap. It's doing that thing where the iron is just so corroded I can't even melt anything with control as I can only use the iron from the side. Lol I'll pm you shaggy I'll be happy to get this think dumped or repaired but mostly just out of my face for a while.
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ttz
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« Reply #1197 on: November 01, 2011, 01:07:56 PM » |
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don't worry I usually "pmt" twice a week the drive I posted was modified before pmt method was public |
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f0r54ken
Newbie
Posts: 9
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« Reply #1198 on: November 01, 2011, 02:20:10 PM » |
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Yeah, I was trying to look for the "now" way. Sadly i fail at life. Nice to see you around again dream. Once I Get this board fixed i'll be sure to follow that method from now until forever. **** that whole soldering suicide. Nah i Just suck. Lol.
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Dream
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« Reply #1199 on: November 01, 2011, 03:43:29 PM » |
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don't worry I usually "pmt" twice a week the drive I posted was modified before pmt method was public Ok i try to fix it for u. Last one then it is over. For free of course. But don’t worry the brains in here designed way to get the key from the motherboard. Some one in your country can do it. This was project to help u guys to get the keys for free. Repair tips for free. I am reading this site but, I will step in only when $#!t start to blow up again. Now I am building BGA Rework Machines for my spear time… Best regard Timo |
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