How to repair lite-on pad 101

[iateshaggy]

the only thing i see is you forgot to solder one of the mra cuts, but your repair work is spot on.  it could be cleaner, but looked good enough, but i would check for shorts with a multimeter.

this pic is w/o your yellow wire (yours is ok, this is how i do it), the other jumper is great, just long.

[Thiagotms]

I need to take the yellow wire? and will need some resistor or just wire it?

[iateshaggy]

your yellow wire is fine, but if u dont want to cross the board, then u can replace the yellow with the top red line i made.  no resistors needed, that is just for dumping firmware.  do u need a firmware dump, or just a working drive?

[Thiagotms]

I need to dump the firmware, to extract the key

[iateshaggy]

with your drive as is in the photo, probe the via pad on the left side of the lower red line (via 122) instead of the normal via 101 point.  making the board like my pic will return it to stock.

[Thiagotms]

type this ?
http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/ac193/mvpv82/untitled.jpg

it has as to order an image? , it is bad to understand with translator… I used three translator one more different than the other

if I to make mra to hacker, will function?

[ZerOneX]

Guys, I have a similar problem here... I saw some users facing the same issue.

I received one drive lite-on DG16D2S.

The user just plugged the power cable using the wrong orientation which burned the resistor R207 and R204.

After that he tried to connect the bridge by himself and the result can be seen bellow



I did the bridge for R204 but he lost the necessary points to solder the bridge at R207

I would like to know if there is alternative points to solder this bridge to get the DVD Key.

Regards,

ZerO

[iateshaggy]

in the last pic i posted, the red jumper line on top of the board will complete the missing circuit.  after that, perform typical mra or pmt hack.

[ZerOneX]

in the last pic i posted, the red jumper line on top of the board will complete the missing circuit.  after that, perform typical mra or pmt hack.

Thank you, I appreciate that mate.

Edit.

@iateshaggy: Man, I believe that I´m missing something. JF still doesn´t recognize my drive, I can guarantee no short on PCB, checked it twice with my multimeter. Any clue?

Thanks in advance one more time.

[iateshaggy]

here is what you need to do to dump the drive.  remove all wire with x's over them, after u dump it, you don't have to install jumpers on cut traces, just clean the trace around the cut to bare copper and put a tiny dot on solder over the cut.  the one jumper i showed u to install is the only trace u need to return to stock after dumping (needs to stay there while dumping too).  it is irrelevant the drive doesn't show up, just intro and power cycle.  make 100% positive u have no shorts, the solder job on there is past borderline risky.

[ZerOneX]

@iateshaggy: Thanks man, I did it without any sucess, maybe the CI is dead at all. I prefer to avoid to use solder over the cut, if someday (for any reason) MRA come into picture again the cut will remain untouched.... and I saw some deep cuts, and when you try do remove the solder, the metal goes into the cut resulting into a "permanent" short.

I would like to thank you, for your help and time. This drive is a waste of time I think.



Cheers man.

[iateshaggy]

if you shipped it to me, i bet i would have it dumped in 5 minutes.

[ZerOneX]

sure mate..

could you send me by e-mail the detalis about it?.. the prize and your address!!

cheers.

[Thiagotms]

sorry for the delay, I had to buy a resistor .., iateshaggy the jf not recognize my drive is normal? I tried all the doors and all, the status is ocilo 0x3, 0x5. after I send the print circuit


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Iateshaggy, i can send the driver for you ? You speaks to me the price i paid to you ? It may be ?

[najd1103]

Hi all. Ive been reading this forum and have seen all the pictures showing you what to do but i am not sure which one i need to do in my case, i think i have shorted out the MT1319L pad and im not very sure which 3.3v lines etc i need to fix.

Thanks in advance

Najd1103

[pej02]

The MT1319L on my board is getting hot about 5 seconds after applying power.

The ohmmeter reads 5.2 Ohms between 3V3 and GND on CON1.

Is the key salvageable from this chip or is it new XBox console time?

[iateshaggy]

it might be retrievable, but without pictures of what you have soldered on the board, we can not determine whether or not it is retrievable by you.

[pej02]

I have not soldered much onto the board, apart from a wire which was used as a track after it came of while soldering the R707 & R708 points for flashing. Heres some links to the pictures -

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j429/pej02/IMG_20110628_163605.jpg

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j429/pej02/IMG_20110627_193441.jpg

[pej02]

I have also been reading this guide on how to extract the dvd key from the motherboard. Is this possible?

Link : http://www.ehow.com/how_7443534_extract-360-motherboard-using-infectus.html

[iateshaggy]

r707 wire is not needed.  that method has been expired by a few years.