How to repair lite-on pad 101

[PipeRifle]

I've repaired the destroyed trace along the top and my multimeter is telling me everything should be good, except pin 122 seems to be grounding out. I tried isolating it by cutting traces but no luck. Is there anyway to fix that kind of short?

[iateshaggy]

find what part of the 3.3 line you soldered to the grd next to it.

[PipeRifle]

I guess I don't know what you mean. I'm not even sure if that's the issue, I just cannot get an FW dump for the life of me. Can't even get the computer to recognize it, and people with WAY more messed up boards than mine are getting that. I will post an updated pic asap.

[PipeRifle]

Here's what I ended up with (click for larger):





I've tried soldering the switch wire to both 101 and 122, and it seems to work, like if I solder it to 101, and touch my multimeter to the end of that wire, and touch the other point to 122, I get a response (as Dream said, they're connected "under the chip") so I don't think that's my problem. I just can't get JF to pick up the drive no matter what I do.

I'm powering via the Xbox, using latest JF with Vista, and unfortunately that's all I have access to right now. Dosflash just locks up my computer but when it WAS working, that didn't read it either. I'd really love some advice if anyone had any to give.

[digant]

How to tell if the MT is burned @ Game over.

Fix your board like i have drawn in picture.
IF the resistance is 95-110 Kohm drive is fine you can dump it.
IF there is no resistance 0 ohm @ open circuit r207 is burned fix it, new zero ohm resistor or solder bridge.

Burned Drives, Measure resistance 3,3V to GND if the resistance is low like 1 ohm - 20 ohm.

First cut Pink line 1 and measure resistance 3,3V to GND if the resistance goes high 95-110 Kohms the drive is burned game over!!

Second cut Blue line 2 and measure resistance 3,3V to GND if the resistance goes high 95-110 Kohms the drive is burned game over!!

3,3V to GND Resistances.

0 - 1 ohms short-circuit.

1 - 30 ohms burned MT chip

30 - 400 ohms maybe burned pin 122 tx/rx.

95K - 110K ohms Drive is OK.

20M  - 30M ohms MRA 3,3V fix is not connected @ R207 to C03 jump wire.

According to Dream's hints I did pink and blue cuts.
As reported on posts #1110 and #1115 on page 56, Without these cuts the resistance +3.3V to GROUND was 183 Ohm.
With pink cut the resistance was 200 Ohm (more or less the same value as without any pink cut).
With blue cut the resistance was 104 KOhm.

What does it mean? is there something else I can do?

[Dream]

digant,

You need the pads (Chip power pins) to dump firmware. So your MT Chip is burned @ Game Over. (pin60 and pin75)

[PipeRifle]

Pretty sure I have now tried every single fix I could find in various combinations. Multimeter reads fine. No idea why but I cannot dump or get recognized. When I try any of the "fixes" just to see if I can put it back to normal, it red rings. No idea how this got so boned.

[Dream]

Pretty sure I have now tried every single fix I could find in various combinations. Multimeter reads fine. No idea why but I cannot dump or get recognized. When I try any of the "fixes" just to see if I can put it back to normal, it red rings. No idea how this got so boned.

You need pro help!!

[mrshaver]

i tired to get the key off my 9 series using a no name lt switch that i had to solder onto the board. but i messed up and by whats left of the board i need some advice. i have a another drive that ill spoof with this key if i can get it so i am only concerned about extracting the key.i now have a ck3 lite with ck3 probe 3. i was wondering how i could get the drive operable so i can extract it with my probe 3. i have seen page#1 and most on this thread but most involve the mra method and i would like to use the probe 3.pad 101 and 122 are destroyed but i am not shur were i have to bridge the wire if i am not attempting the mra method. i apologize if i asked question that were answer previously.

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd400/mrshaverx5/IMG012.jpg    i am sorry but i don't know how to clean up the board with out 99%alcohol  can only find 80% near me and i heard it wont work. but i have cleaned up the solder after the picture was taken. i realized i used to much. any help is appreciated.

[iateshaggy]

the method used to get a key from a board like that involves removing epoxy and micro soldering.  judging by your pic, you can't do that, you will destroy any chance you have of getting the key.  if you would like to send it to me, i'm in the us.  pm for more details.  in the mean time, DO NOT POWER THAT DRIVE.  powering it can cause further damage and fry the chip making key extraction impossible.

[c0das]

(reposting)Hello need help to fix my liteon pcb board cuz i need get dvdkey from it to replace dvd drive (JF cant detect drive )

[c0das]

also mt chip get hot a little bit 

[iateshaggy]

the piece that is missing can be replaced by jumping the traces before and after the component.  if the chip gets hot, u have a short, every time u turn the drive on and it gets hot, u are getting one step closer to that drive being ruined and you not getting your key.

[c0das]

the piece that is missing can be replaced by jumping the traces before and after the component.  if the chip gets hot, u have a short, every time u turn the drive on and it gets hot, u are getting one step closer to that drive being ruined and you not getting your key.

thank's for answer can you make a scheme how connect the wire ?

[iateshaggy]

that is the least of your problems.  u need to find what is making that chip hot and why that fuse blew.  what does the other side that board look like?

[c0das]

back of the pcb board

ill test around the board  with multimeter tester but cant find nothing 

[djblade17]

It actually looks better in person camera kinda sucks.....

I think this is why my 1.8 is shorting and getting so hot
if you can see i have  scratch right through the trace

Well i am having a issue where that chip is getting extreamly hot when it is set up like this
if i remove all wiring and clean up all solder it gets warm but not hot in 3 secs like it does there
i read little bits of info in this thread that could be some what related but i am completely lost....

Backround
Bought a lot of 360's
this one was giving me a 0110 error? something related to ram maybe 0020 idk anymore kinda tired
noticed it would boot without drive
took drive apart
saw a hack job
i fixed hack job
everything kinda worked
it just wouldnt read games or any disks just would say reading then open tray
so i wanted to pull the key and put on another drive

I turned it on  went to pull the key and i felt like i burned myself on the chip
i turned it off
unsoldered and cleaned everything
plugged it in and the chip was warm but more so normal
redid the fix and bam its completely hot again...
trying to read through the forums now very confusing so many different fixes a long the lines

also the 1.8v regulator also gets very warm

I read this could be caused by putting the cable in upside down?
I do not believe this is the issue because i have done several xboxs and knew that rule from the beginning
I also tried sticking it in upside down and it was very hard i didnt even want to try to force it so i really do not believe thats it i would of def noticed

well my 101 trace is gone
but the other one is fine

I am very confused about the 3.3v  ground test
Does it need to be plugged in?
turned on?
what setting 200k?
seems like my readings were jumping all over the place

I am a newb to this all so dont make to much fun on my soldering skills lol

well thanks for any help
back to reading and seeing if i can understand this

Another Question
Is my drive basically this big black chip that gets hot, Like is my firmware on it?
Would i be able to swap it to another l-o board i dont use and just pull the key from there?
 

just to add i only want key off this drive to put on another so if i can just do that ill be happy

[iateshaggy]

look at how you have wires crossing off the trace across the background, that is a short.  your wires have to run perpendicular to the trace or it does that and that chip getting hot is the chances of you getting a key going down.  it also look like you are using way to much solder.

[djblade17]

thanks for the info
I might just try sending it to you or someone in case so i dont destroy it more then it is
The one trace on the 1.8v line is mostly gone
my fiber glass pen ripped it up
the hole is still there
i can get a wire into it
if its not repairable its not to much of a loss
only spent 14 bucks on the box
if you could pm me details or any other person in the usa that can fix

[Thiagotms]

I have Philips lite-on DG-16D2S-09C manufactured fabruary 2010 and i placed power cable upside down fried PCB near c01 I wonder if it can be fixed? I have some knowledge in electronics maybe some1 has schematics for that PCB? If it of course can be fixed.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/849/dsc02861y.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/848/dsc02871.jpg/