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Author Topic: How to repair lite-on pad 101  (Read 158640 times)
iateshaggy
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« Reply #1080 on: March 01, 2011, 06:57:21 AM »

tbh, i don't read post that long, i just look at the pictures.
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pentschev
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« Reply #1081 on: March 01, 2011, 07:39:02 AM »

Sorry, but I don't think the pictures are gonna help on this, so I'll make it short.

I connected the power cable upside down, the voltage regulator burned, I changed it to a working one, before I do the r207/c03 connection, I couldn't get the resistance between 3.3V and GND and it did not power on, and after the connection and after I turned it on (no, I didn't measure the resistance before turning it on again), the LED from the DVD lights up and I get about 27 ohms of resistance between 3.3V and GND.

So, the question is, is there any chance I can turn it on again (because I'm doing something wrong, like a short or something), at least to extract the key or the MT is just burned/game over?

Thank you again.
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Dream
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« Reply #1082 on: March 01, 2011, 02:09:53 PM »

pentschev,

No top/bottom picture --> no help.
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pentschev
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« Reply #1083 on: March 01, 2011, 04:01:21 PM »

Well, if you say so, there they go!

http://img848.imageshack.us/f/img20110301175242.jpg/
http://img192.imageshack.us/i/img20110301175300.jpg/

I hope there's something to do yet!

Thank you guys again!
« Last Edit: March 01, 2011, 04:05:19 PM by pentschev » Logged
k0mpresd
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« Reply #1084 on: March 01, 2011, 11:37:44 PM »

youre missing a resistor arent you?
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Dream
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« Reply #1085 on: March 02, 2011, 01:57:35 AM »

OK

Looks bad so clean it, all the wires off and solder new wires. (All wires/solder OFF!!)
It looks that top wire is shorted in 5V line remove it and install new wire.
Missing resistor is 100 ohms and you dont need it now.

Take the awg 30 wires cover off and solder it like this in the bottom.


This is your fix then measure resistance 3,3V to GND. Tell as what it is. Do not power it measure only!!


« Last Edit: March 02, 2011, 02:08:03 AM by Dream » Logged
pentschev
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« Reply #1086 on: March 02, 2011, 06:21:18 AM »

Thank you Dream/k0mpresd,

Really haven't noticed the missing resistor, don't know when it came off...

As soon as I get home I'll try to do all that and post the results!
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Dream
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« Reply #1087 on: March 02, 2011, 06:43:02 AM »

Thank you Dream/k0mpresd,

Really haven't noticed the missing resistor, don't know when it came off...

As soon as I get home I'll try to do all that and post the results!

Also the 1.8V regulator filter cap is missing but dont worry you don need it now.
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pentschev
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« Reply #1088 on: March 02, 2011, 08:23:30 AM »

Thank you Dream/k0mpresd,

Really haven't noticed the missing resistor, don't know when it came off...

As soon as I get home I'll try to do all that and post the results!

Also the 1.8V regulator filter cap is missing but dont worry you don need it now.

So I can leave it as is or i have to jump it?

I just need the damn key! If the PCB becomes unusable after that, I don't care...
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pentschev
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« Reply #1089 on: March 02, 2011, 07:10:51 PM »

Dream,

Just did everything you told to, same result, about 27 ohms between GND and 3,3V.

What do you think?

Thank you!
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1090 on: March 02, 2011, 07:25:21 PM »

your drive is dead.
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pentschev
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« Reply #1091 on: March 02, 2011, 07:27:18 PM »

Here are the pics:

http://img819.imageshack.us/i/img20110302211633.jpg/
http://img842.imageshack.us/i/img20110302211656.jpg/

Just to make it clear:

For r707/8/10, couldn't make a regular jump, so I did it using the awg 30 wires (tested, working correctly, no short there). No shorts near r207 too or on the bottom (tested all of them).

If you think it's necessary, I can post better pics tomorrow, with natural illumination.
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pentschev
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« Reply #1092 on: March 02, 2011, 07:27:50 PM »

your drive is dead.

So, no way to at least retrieve the key?
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sd-253
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« Reply #1093 on: March 02, 2011, 11:28:25 PM »

Hi

This is my badly failed LT switch installation effort.
Possible to repair before switch install condition?

This is the picture of the board:http://img687.imageshack.us/i/boardnl.jpg/

Big Thanks!!
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Dream
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« Reply #1094 on: March 03, 2011, 04:50:15 AM »

sd-253,

That PCB is hard to fix. (fix is under the epoxy)
Send it to someone who can fix it for you.

pentschev,

Now that is how you solder, Nice work.
For r707/8/10 fixes teke them off, like i sed no need to fix them.
But it is game over for you.
If the MT chip heats up and jf dont see it --> burned game over.
« Last Edit: March 03, 2011, 04:58:04 AM by Dream » Logged
Dream
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« Reply #1095 on: March 03, 2011, 06:07:04 AM »

Quote
We can repair ALL Xbox 360 drives and PCB’s whatever damage has been done to them.
We can fix Liteon (LT) PCB’s, Samsung PCB’s, BenQ & Hitatchi. In fact we can repair ANY Xbox 360′s both old and new.
If you have damaged your old Liteon Driveboard (PCB) by trying the LT Switch or MRA hack yourselves and in the process have damaged the PCB, we can either get it working again or at the very LEAST take the security key off the old board and use it in a new one.
We will get your Xbox 360 and dead drive working and back to normal. http://www.ltrepairs.co.uk/

Hmmm all? hmmm?? Maby we can hmmm???
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sd-253
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« Reply #1096 on: March 03, 2011, 07:02:10 AM »

Hi
Dream thanks for the quick respond, your post #1048 would be the the fix for my board?

Thanks
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Dream
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« Reply #1097 on: March 03, 2011, 08:42:05 AM »

Hi
Dream thanks for the quick respond, your post #1048 would be the the fix for my board?

Thanks

Here you go : http://dream.pic.fi/kuvat/Xbox+360/Liteon+7%2C8%2C9+Pad+Repair/13567/
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1098 on: March 03, 2011, 11:47:14 AM »

fyi, you are one mistake away from losing that console.
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sd-253
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« Reply #1099 on: March 03, 2011, 05:45:43 PM »

Thanks for that, if the board can be repaired back  to stock, I can read the key  with the Maximus Lizard
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