deadair4ever
Newbie
Posts: 5
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« Reply #1040 on: February 08, 2011, 12:30:44 AM » |
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So, I couldn't a definitive answer to this, so I'll just throw it out cold... this is from a customer, after I cleaned off the connective glue from his bad LiteOn Switch job. The guy doesn't care about the board, he just wants his key. I have a CK3, Probe 1 and 2, and decent soldering skills... I'm just at a loss of how to proceed. Any help would be amazing! Thanks!  |
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NEO_X
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« Reply #1041 on: February 08, 2011, 10:52:20 AM » |
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i have the same what you have only top right pad on board i have here for repair is also removed
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deadair4ever
Newbie
Posts: 5
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« Reply #1042 on: February 08, 2011, 04:35:11 PM » |
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Ok, this is the same board as above, after messing with it a little. It detects in JF now, but I can't get it out of 0x50, 0x51, 0x52, 0xD2 regardless of switch configs I've tried. Am I missing something? Is there an alt I need to jumper in? How should my switch be, given this config? BTW, that top-right pad is still good, just a little dirty in this pic. Thanks, all!   |
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« Last Edit: February 08, 2011, 05:19:13 PM by deadair4ever »
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deadair4ever
Newbie
Posts: 5
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« Reply #1043 on: February 08, 2011, 11:46:48 PM » |
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Ok, so here's what DID work. The wires going off to the side are to my switch and resistor on the ground pad. Thanks to Oggy, Xmods and spudnutz on #JF!   |
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« Last Edit: February 09, 2011, 03:15:12 AM by deadair4ever »
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Dream
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« Reply #1044 on: February 09, 2011, 04:40:30 AM » |
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deadair4ever, I think there is some extra wires.  |
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deadair4ever
Newbie
Posts: 5
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« Reply #1045 on: February 09, 2011, 05:26:41 AM » |
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 you're probably right, but this worked... and I'm a better modder for this. I know so much more now than I did 2 days ago... AMAZING!! please do tell, if you have any advice. I want to be as good as I can be.
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Dream
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« Reply #1046 on: February 09, 2011, 05:56:50 AM » |
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FW dump  |
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deadair4ever
Newbie
Posts: 5
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« Reply #1047 on: February 09, 2011, 06:03:12 AM » |
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so, you mean to tell me.. lol... thanks, mate! I've saved this and will no doubt use it countless times. Cheers!!
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« Last Edit: February 09, 2011, 06:21:09 AM by deadair4ever »
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Dream
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« Reply #1048 on: February 09, 2011, 06:09:40 AM » |
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« Last Edit: February 09, 2011, 08:02:27 AM by Dream »
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NEO_X
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« Reply #1049 on: February 09, 2011, 11:25:59 AM » |
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dream can you help me out i have that same board but on top right i have also the other pad lifted i post a picture on the net with a link
is it still possible to also hack this drive if jf sees it after repair
thanks in advance
here is the imageshack link --> h**p://img560.imageshack.us/img560/3596/ext3344.png
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Dream
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« Reply #1050 on: February 09, 2011, 02:19:29 PM » |
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dream can you help me out i have that same board but on top right i have also the other pad lifted i post a picture on the net with a link
is it still possible to also hack this drive if jf sees it after repair
thanks in advance
here is the imageshack link --> h**p://img560.imageshack.us/img560/3596/ext3344.png
Same dump and fix works for you. http://dream.pic.fi/kuvat/Xbox+360/Liteonin+salat/deadair4ever/ |
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Pacote-san
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« Reply #1051 on: February 16, 2011, 04:41:27 AM » |
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Like this.  Just tested the r707 ad its fine whats the next step Thanks |
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flashing360
Newbie
Posts: 1
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« Reply #1052 on: February 16, 2011, 07:53:08 AM » |
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ive got a liteon here thats been sent to me and can normally repair most problems but with this one theyd shorted the drive and c01 has gone and the 2 pads on the reverse side. the mt chip heats up when powered so any advice for just a key extraction?
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iateshaggy
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« Reply #1053 on: February 16, 2011, 06:41:46 PM » |
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there is a short, fix it first and stop turning on drives that you aren't 100% sure aren't shorted. then fix the busted traces and measure resistance from the 3.3 line to grd and post the resistance here. that chip heating up may have killed it for good, we'll see.
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Pacote-san
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« Reply #1054 on: February 21, 2011, 12:25:26 AM » |
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Like this. Just tested the r707 ad its fine whats the next step Thanks just fixed that, solded one wire to the r707 and another to the line it was supossed to be connected and the drive is working fine |
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Mythien
Newbie
Posts: 3
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« Reply #1055 on: February 21, 2011, 02:57:13 AM » |
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I have been following this thread for half a year and it was a great help with my first MRA hack 7 months ago, A few days ago I tried to update my firmware to LT+, Everything went fine with the flash but now I am kind of stuck with an issue I don't know how to fix and can't find any info on. The yellow in the pics is completely gone (Pin/pad 101 &122) And the Red is Grounded. Also the C03 Pad is gone. My biggest problem is the 3.3v line below Pin 122 is grounded/has a short and I cannot locate the source. I have cleaned all solder off and checked for the usual issues. Sorry if I didn't explain in detail enough Im not sure what info is needed. Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us |
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Dream
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« Reply #1056 on: February 21, 2011, 11:52:52 AM » |
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Say no to the cuts. - 1,8v regulator @ LM317 - 4.7F 2.5V Cap.    |
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Dream
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« Reply #1057 on: February 21, 2011, 11:56:58 AM » |
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Mythien, lift the pin 122, if the 101 is still short burned mt chip game over.
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brunoaduarte
Newbie
Posts: 3
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« Reply #1058 on: February 21, 2011, 04:20:11 PM » |
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« Last Edit: February 22, 2011, 10:25:00 AM by brunoaduarte »
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Mythien
Newbie
Posts: 3
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« Reply #1059 on: February 21, 2011, 05:36:20 PM » |
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Mythien, lift the pin 122, if the 101 is still short burned mt chip game over.
Lift the pin then what? this happened upon reassemble, I updated firmware with no issue, Could MT chip be burned and still allow me to read/write firmware? Also 101 is not grounded , Just the 3.3v line below pad 122 and C03 area. If I lift pin 122 from board and the short is corrected, can I supply the lifted pin with power from a 3.3v line elsewhere? And ignore the 3.3v line on the pad side? |
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« Last Edit: February 21, 2011, 05:53:06 PM by Mythien »
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