Xbr, read nand help me understand

[leirch]

I'm at work right now , i'll get some pictures tonight.


I pulled apart a spare xenon I had laying around, 360 running, checked J1F1.4 and it didn't have 3.3 volts.



One other thing to note, this problem xenon is in a micro ATX pc case, power plug, ROL , and HDD connectors have been removed from the motherboard and replaced with pins or wiring directly. The machine works fine with orignal nand(hard drive/ROL), all of it.


But I was doing some referencing from the xenon to opus pinout for JTAG installing and noticed that J1F1.4 is obviously not on the Opus but goes to the ROL board. I'm wondering if its possible that I have something bridged on my ROL board thats sending the 3.3 volt through to the J1F1.4 on the xenon?(Not sure thats even possible, don't know enough about the similarities).

[leirch]

Here are the before and after JTAG install pictures.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/37816554@N06/?saved=1

[maximilian0017]

Ok, sorry but it doesn't look that pretty,

First make sure you cannot start XELL with the Xbox Controller connected to the back USB port and pressing the guide button, if it boots Xell you have a problem with your XBR image/flashing.

What type of diodes are you using for Xell? (1n4148 looks a lot different, the other BAT one i havent seen before)
Are the diodes wires not inserted to deep inside J1F1?

You are probably not using the best type of solder for this, it looks like ROHS leadfree solder and that is a bitch to solder and doesn't look nice.
If you can get your hands on some old non ROHS electronics solder with lead it will look a lot better and the connections will be better. (but dont inhale)

If you can find some solid core wire with +- the same diameter that should help also, with the type you are using you get shorts quickly.

Really cant see on the pictures but keep the wires short.

Also you should carefully clean the pcb with something like contact cleaner or Isopropol Acohol(98%?!?),  that way you can see shorts easyer.

[leirch]

I'll go over everything again. and try to clean it up.


The diodes are 1N914 switching diodes. Xell does not work, USB controller in back port(starting with X guide button) or by hitting the eject button.


I know that the solder points look like hell, and its mainly due to removing the wires so many times, I've probably swapped them back and forth atleast 15 times now checking my connections etc...


Any idea why or how I could possibly be getting 3.3 volts on J1F1.4?

I'm thinking thats my main source of problems at this point.

[maximilian0017]

The diodes are 1N914 switching diodes. Xell does not work, USB controller in back port(starting with X guide button) or by hitting the eject button.

Any idea why or how I could possibly be getting 3.3 volts on J1F1.4?

J1F1.4 is software controlled so that can go either way i think, especially when using a modified SMC part (as Xell and XBR do)

I just went through 11 1N914 datasheets and they dont really look like the ones in the picture with an extra ring/rounding on the top, the diode itself has the correct markings?

Maby you can test them with a diode tester, sometimes they just break i'm told.

[leirch]

I bought a 100pack at a local Radio shack, package is labelled as 1N914, I used the same diode on the LPT cable for nand dumping.

The diode seems to be working, I'm not getting voltage through it when its soldered in or any continuity through them when testing them alone on the table. I've tried 2 seperate sets of diodes too.  I'll need to visually look at one later confirm the markings on them.


The J1F1.4 being controlled by software makes sense, come to think of it, I'm not sure if I ever checked it for voltage with the orignal nand image flashed back. I'll get some pictures of the board cleaned up and see if I can get some better pictures of my install job with better wiring at the very least.


One other thing to mention, the 330ohm resistors I tried are 1/2 watt. Not to mention I've even tried the JTAG wiring without resistors or diodes(saw somewhere that another person got it working that way), but for obvious reasons isn't something you want to leave in place. No luck on the direct method either.

[maximilian0017]

One other thing to mention, the 330ohm resistors I tried are 1/2 watt. Not to mention I've even tried the JTAG wiring without resistors or diodes(saw somewhere that another person got it working that way), but for obvious reasons isn't something you want to leave in place. No luck on the direct method either.

The wattage doesn't really matter but its a bad thing you tried without the resistors, that could of easely blown one of the pins and caused it to hang high or low.
(cannot comment on anyone in this situation so it isn't 100% sure)

The J1F1 was originally intended for debug leds and i wouldn't presume another board with other pins would measure the same, the resistance measurements i gave were from a working xbox with the hack installed.


i hope you can clean up everything and it will work, otherwise just return to stock and use for live or Sell.