DizzyThermal
Newbie
Posts: 6
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« Reply #320 on: December 03, 2009, 12:55:05 PM » |
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@SuperK, Alrighty, guess I'm picking up bread crumbs for this one.. Once the drive is flashed to iXtreme 1.6, will I need to do the soldering and cutting of traces to flash the new iXtreme LT when it comes out or will JF/DosFlash be able to erase/write (with updated versions of the programs)? As always, thanks in advance for the response
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BoXXDr
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« Reply #321 on: December 03, 2009, 01:25:51 PM » |
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@SuperK, Alrighty, guess I'm picking up bread crumbs for this one.. Once the drive is flashed to iXtreme 1.6, will I need to do the soldering and cutting of traces to flash the new iXtreme LT when it comes out or will JF/DosFlash be able to erase/write (with updated versions of the programs)? As always, thanks in advance for the response
Once you have a dump of the complete firmware keep it somewhere safe. (keep it in 3 places even) You will never have to solder or open the drive again after that. |
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SuperK
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« Reply #322 on: December 03, 2009, 02:26:10 PM » |
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@SuperK, Alrighty, guess I'm picking up bread crumbs for this one.. Once the drive is flashed to iXtreme 1.6, will I need to do the soldering and cutting of traces to flash the new iXtreme LT when it comes out or will JF/DosFlash be able to erase/write (with updated versions of the programs)? As always, thanks in advance for the response
Once you have a dump of the complete firmware keep it somewhere safe. (keep it in 3 places even) You will never have to solder or open the drive again after that. My drive is a 93450c-2 so it may be different from what you are experiencing. In my case, without the traces cut I could not do anything, read or write, only got x52. As far as not having to open the drive again, in my case again that is untrue. I used jungleflasher to attempt to obtain the dummy from ixtreme but it didnt work. My drive firmware has been updated to ixtreme 1.6 and as such theoretically it should work, but it doesnt. I would have to assume this is related to being the 93450c -2 |
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kainy
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« Reply #323 on: December 03, 2009, 02:31:43 PM » |
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Good mornin' I've just tried the second method ( that on the back of the pcb ) on a 74850c drive ( the only one I have, but perfect for testing  ). I'm using dosflash, trough a iPrep boot usb. So when I finished soldering, I've started the procedure. The flash got recognized but with status 0x11. Anyway I've dumped it. Try to load it in JungleFlasher ( 1.67 on Windows 7 32 bit ) in Target but i crashed ( just turned off ). I though the 0x11 status wasn't lieing so I've checked the soldering and tried again. It was 0x11 again wiht fully recognizing the spi. So I dumped it again. This time i created a new dir in the usb and put there the new dump, firmtool.exe and the l74cfw.bin. Firmtool did everything perfectly and updated the ixtreme with the correct key. Loading it in JF still crashed so I got frustrated. But when I tried opening the firm on my laptop ( Vista 32 bit ) it opened correctly and appeared alright. So my question is if this dump is good even if the status is 0x11 not 0x72. And if this status is normal for 74850c. I'm now going to try and spoof the new firm to a Hitachi drive and try it out, but I'll appreatiate a little more info Apperantly the two hitachi's I had are wiped out... So I've erased the 74 liteon and flashed it with the ixtreme that firmtool made from the full dump. It works purfectly as before, so I think the method works even with this 0x11 status. |
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BoXXDr
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« Reply #324 on: December 03, 2009, 03:05:05 PM » |
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@SuperK, Alrighty, guess I'm picking up bread crumbs for this one.. Once the drive is flashed to iXtreme 1.6, will I need to do the soldering and cutting of traces to flash the new iXtreme LT when it comes out or will JF/DosFlash be able to erase/write (with updated versions of the programs)? As always, thanks in advance for the response
Once you have a dump of the complete firmware keep it somewhere safe. (keep it in 3 places even) You will never have to solder or open the drive again after that. My drive is a 93450c-2 so it may be different from what you are experiencing. In my case, without the traces cut I could not do anything, read or write, only got x52. As far as not having to open the drive again, in my case again that is untrue. I used jungleflasher to attempt to obtain the dummy from ixtreme but it didnt work. My drive firmware has been updated to ixtreme 1.6 and as such theoretically it should work, but it doesnt. I would have to assume this is related to being the 93450c -2Did you try to erase it first? You don't get status 72 untill its erased. |
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Hami
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« Reply #325 on: December 03, 2009, 03:57:44 PM » |
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My drive is a 93450c-2 so it may be different from what you are experiencing. In my case, without the traces cut I could not do anything, read or write, only got x52. As far as not having to open the drive again, in my case again that is untrue. I used jungleflasher to attempt to obtain the dummy from ixtreme but it didnt work. My drive firmware has been updated to ixtreme 1.6 and as such theoretically it should work, but it doesnt. I would have to assume this is related to being the 93450c-2
I managed to acheive a dump on a 934050c-2 with an 18 Ohm Res via MRA method and from looking through the FW in Hexworkshop it looks valid. I have been up too many hours doing other work related things but im gonna try flash ix1.6 tomorrow to a spare drive and I shall post results. I kept getting stuck on 0x52 till I changed resstor and I flicked switch from 1 - 2 - 1 (in quick succession) and I have what I feel is a valid dump. |
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« Last Edit: December 03, 2009, 04:00:32 PM by Hami »
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Need a console repaired or modded? joic our website, all drive revisions in stock and most other console repair parts We participated in suppling VARIOUS firmware writers with dumps for there fimware apps and also beta tested the Firmware toolbox, we are well know and established online/eCommerce traders! Website: http://www.techno-devices.com |
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SuperK
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« Reply #326 on: December 03, 2009, 03:59:36 PM » |
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@SuperK, Alrighty, guess I'm picking up bread crumbs for this one.. Once the drive is flashed to iXtreme 1.6, will I need to do the soldering and cutting of traces to flash the new iXtreme LT when it comes out or will JF/DosFlash be able to erase/write (with updated versions of the programs)? As always, thanks in advance for the response
Once you have a dump of the complete firmware keep it somewhere safe. (keep it in 3 places even) You will never have to solder or open the drive again after that. My drive is a 93450c-2 so it may be different from what you are experiencing. In my case, without the traces cut I could not do anything, read or write, only got x52. As far as not having to open the drive again, in my case again that is untrue. I used jungleflasher to attempt to obtain the dummy from ixtreme but it didnt work. My drive firmware has been updated to ixtreme 1.6 and as such theoretically it should work, but it doesnt. I would have to assume this is related to being the 93450c -2Did you try to erase it first? You don't get status 72 untill its erased. This method tricks the SPI into thinking that it IS erased, and doesnt bother putting up the firmware security, which is why we get 0x72, (makes the firmware read FF) then when we disconnect the resistor/ground it allows access but the SPI doesnt bother to check if the firmware is still FF or not, it assumes its still blank, ergo status 0x72. You must obtain 0x72 before you can do ANYthing to this drive. So here is what I did, and followed the previous guides. Did the hardware mods, opened up Dosflash and got 0x72, disconnected my negative(turn switch off) and then read the flash, opened it in JF and spoofed it to the templated ix16, Lite-On Erased the drive, then wrote the new FW to it. Then closed dosflash and rebooted. I might also mention that my drive was half open as per normal ix flashing procedures. |
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ToroXL
Newbie
Posts: 2
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« Reply #327 on: December 03, 2009, 04:19:15 PM » |
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So here is some advice for all who are still having problems and especially for all of you who think the might have a board with Winbond SPI flash:
You should check your soldering again and again before trying one of these things!
-If you get status 0x52 instead of 0x72 it is very likely that the voltage for the SPI isnīt pulled down strong enough. Maybe your resistor is a little bigger than 22 Ohm? If itīs not try a slightly (!) smaller one, about 20 Ohm should be OK for you.
-If you have a Winbond SPI Flash inside (i know, you canīt be sure about this from the outside) you will probably get status 0x72 but instead of recognizing the Winbond flash it will be recognized as unknown flash chip (manufacturer and device ID 0xFF). If that is the case you canīt use Dosflash anymore, you have to use JF!
-start JF
-put the switch in position 1
-power drive
-in the MTKFlash Tab click "intro"
-it shoudl get "recognized" as unknown flash chip with status 0x72 like it was in Dosflash
-put switch in position 2
-click onto "intro" again
-now JF should recognize the Winbond SPI with status 0x72 and you can dump the whole drive
IMPORTANT: Donīt power the drive down between the 2 intros!
Thannk you man!! Ive dumped several mx drives (74850 8830 94950) using the lift pin but im having problems with a winbond drive. ll check using the resistor method with 20 and 22 ohm. i have one more doubt. im using JF and whtn i click INTRO it asks to power off and then on the drive so i do it. You say you dont have to power the drive between the two intros, but how can i do a intro without powering the drive off and on? The winbond ive triiying goes from 0x80 to 0x52 in stead of 0x80 to 0x72 |
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asapreta
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« Reply #328 on: December 03, 2009, 05:11:43 PM » |
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So here is some advice for all who are still having problems and especially for all of you who think the might have a board with Winbond SPI flash:
You should check your soldering again and again before trying one of these things!
-If you get status 0x52 instead of 0x72 it is very likely that the voltage for the SPI isnīt pulled down strong enough. Maybe your resistor is a little bigger than 22 Ohm? If itīs not try a slightly (!) smaller one, about 20 Ohm should be OK for you.
-If you have a Winbond SPI Flash inside (i know, you canīt be sure about this from the outside) you will probably get status 0x72 but instead of recognizing the Winbond flash it will be recognized as unknown flash chip (manufacturer and device ID 0xFF). If that is the case you canīt use Dosflash anymore, you have to use JF!
-start JF
-put the switch in position 1
-power drive
-in the MTKFlash Tab click "intro"
-it shoudl get "recognized" as unknown flash chip with status 0x72 like it was in Dosflash
-put switch in position 2
-click onto "intro" again
-now JF should recognize the Winbond SPI with status 0x72 and you can dump the whole drive
IMPORTANT: Donīt power the drive down between the 2 intros!
Thannk you man!! Ive dumped several mx drives (74850 8830 94950) using the lift pin but im having problems with a winbond drive. ll check using the resistor method with 20 and 22 ohm. i have one more doubt. im using JF and whtn i click INTRO it asks to power off and then on the drive so i do it. You say you dont have to power the drive between the two intros, but how can i do a intro without powering the drive off and on? The winbond ive triiying goes from 0x80 to 0x52 in stead of 0x80 to 0x72 I think its the same problem my friend is having I mentioned some posts above. He also gets 0xD2 when drive is powered off. |
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kleeenerprinz
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« Reply #329 on: December 03, 2009, 05:14:08 PM » |
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its a fact
some drives are able to read, other not. seems that are different chips are inside.
try 10 drives , 8 without problems, 2 only 0x52 status no chance to read them out
hope they find / release a solution for all drives
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« Last Edit: December 03, 2009, 06:00:44 PM by kleeenerprinz »
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SuperK
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« Reply #330 on: December 03, 2009, 07:51:28 PM » |
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the 0x52 drives are most likely winbond drives and should try the jungleflasher mtkflash instead of dosflash. Also, in many cases its user error. I have the absolute latest version of this drive and there is no practical reason why any drive cannot be dumped. My console is literally 3 days new out of the box and has the latest drive and other than my own stupidity for trying conductive paint rather than soldering, it worked fine. I removed the tape with the paint and soldered and low and behold no problems. This is a UNIVERSAL hack for all existing lite-on drives. Drives manufactured on/after dec. 1 2009 will most likely be immune to this trick however, until then, we are safe.
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360experts
Newbie
Posts: 4
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« Reply #331 on: December 03, 2009, 07:53:19 PM » |
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Guys I'm getting slightly confused.
The trace at the top which has to be cut. Where exactly should this be cut.
Help would be greatkyt apreciated.
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BoXXDr
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« Reply #332 on: December 03, 2009, 07:57:55 PM » |
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Guys I'm getting slightly confused.
The trace at the top which has to be cut. Where exactly should this be cut.
Help would be greatkyt apreciated.
Here is your help! Look at the board. It's really obvious once you are holding the board in your hand. If that doesn't work start on page one of this thread and read all the way till you get here. Another user was kind enough to post a photo of what it looks like when you cut it. |
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bunghoolio
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« Reply #333 on: December 03, 2009, 08:19:26 PM » |
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I still reckon it is easier and safer to remove some epoxy and lift the pins as earlier pics in this thread. |
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kainy
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« Reply #334 on: December 03, 2009, 08:41:57 PM » |
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Something was bugging me...
Many people are witholding flashing there's drives 'cause they are waiting for LT firm. My ųestion is for thos who want the 1.6 ixtreme now nad to preflash to LT later.
Is 1.6 template dumpable directly from jungleflasher ( or dosflash, preferably ), without soldering the whole thing again, or a preflash is done the exactly same way?
I think the question about offline flagging the consoles with 1.6 ixtreme is not aligable for a cirtain answer, so it is all about the chance, and waiting for LT is the better choice. ( just want to know, what to advise people, both going to use live, and not )
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SuperK
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« Reply #335 on: December 03, 2009, 09:52:01 PM » |
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Something was bugging me...
Many people are witholding flashing there's drives 'cause they are waiting for LT firm. My ųestion is for thos who want the 1.6 ixtreme now nad to preflash to LT later.
Is 1.6 template dumpable directly from jungleflasher ( or dosflash, preferably ), without soldering the whole thing again, or a preflash is done the exactly same way?
I think the question about offline flagging the consoles with 1.6 ixtreme is not aligable for a cirtain answer, so it is all about the chance, and waiting for LT is the better choice. ( just want to know, what to advise people, both going to use live, and not )
I have a 93450c-2 and its not dumpable from ixtreme, in my case I would have to resolder/cut each time I would like to mod. Easy enough though because I have a solder remover wick which is really good at absorbing solder and breaking the circuit for me, so no actual cutting. And since I have a solderfree method of bridging the points and grounding, the only soldering I do is to re-bridge the traces. |
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360experts
Newbie
Posts: 4
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« Reply #336 on: December 04, 2009, 03:09:44 AM » |
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Something was bugging me...
Many people are witholding flashing there's drives 'cause they are waiting for LT firm. My ųestion is for thos who want the 1.6 ixtreme now nad to preflash to LT later.
Is 1.6 template dumpable directly from jungleflasher ( or dosflash, preferably ), without soldering the whole thing again, or a preflash is done the exactly same way?
I think the question about offline flagging the consoles with 1.6 ixtreme is not aligable for a cirtain answer, so it is all about the chance, and waiting for LT is the better choice. ( just want to know, what to advise people, both going to use live, and not )
I have a 93450c-2 and its not dumpable from ixtreme, in my case I would have to resolder/cut each time I would like to mod. Easy enough though because I have a solder remover wick which is really good at absorbing solder and breaking the circuit for me, so no actual cutting. And since I have a solderfree method of bridging the points and grounding, the only soldering I do is to re-bridge the traces. Ok so dumped a couple of drives successfully today although the thought of having to solder hundreds of these drives is killing me. So... I've been trying to build a solder free tool to speed up the process. SuperK any images of what you have built would make life easier for everyone. If anyone has one working kindly post an image and description of what you used. Thanks in advance! |
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kleeenerprinz
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« Reply #337 on: December 04, 2009, 03:24:36 AM » |
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"the 0x52 drives are most likely winbond drives and should try the jungleflasher mtkflash instead of dosflash."
I tried it but my WinXP Freeze. On the startup it freeze, or if i turn it on later after ic started JF it freeze.
With this PC i flashed every Drive yet without any problem, but the SATA Card dont like LiteOn in WinXP
only in DOS.
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MRA
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« Reply #338 on: December 04, 2009, 05:02:14 AM » |
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If you keep getting 0x52, either you didnīt make the cuts properly or the voltage isnīt pulled down enough --> try a smaller resistor!
If Jungleflasher oder Dosflash asks you to resend the intro and power down the drive you did something wrong. If the drive would have responded with 0x72 this dialog would not appear!
If you did everything correct either MXIC and Windbond drives should return status 0x72. While the MCIX is recognized immediately on Winbond drive you will get "unknown flash chip". If thats the case switch to position 2 and send Intro again --> Winbond will be recognized!
If you really are sure you did everything right and also tried another PC and think your drive is undumpable contact me via PM and we will find a solution!
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asapreta
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« Reply #339 on: December 04, 2009, 05:06:25 AM » |
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the 0x52 drives are most likely winbond drives and should try the jungleflasher mtkflash instead of dosflash. Also, in many cases its user error. I have the absolute latest version of this drive and there is no practical reason why any drive cannot be dumped. My console is literally 3 days new out of the box and has the latest drive and other than my own stupidity for trying conductive paint rather than soldering, it worked fine. I removed the tape with the paint and soldered and low and behold no problems. This is a UNIVERSAL hack for all existing lite-on drives. Drives manufactured on/after dec. 1 2009 will most likely be immune to this trick however, until then, we are safe.
I still think some drives (winbond) are not dumpable with this method. Which controller does your drive have ? |
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