Liteon secrets? I'll share something with you

[asapreta]

I have a friend with problems with this method.
He always get 0x52, never 0x72.

He tried both methods, lifting the legs and the "newer" one using the resistor and cuting the tracks.

Where he could take a look to see if something is wrong?

Also, another question, position 2 of the switch is not connected, right?

Best regards.

[BoXXDr]

Where he could take a look to see if something is wrong?

Also, another question, position 2 of the switch is not connected, right?

Your friend should take pictures and post them here for advice. If not look on your internet classifieds for video game repair guys and most of them are modders too.

Yes position 2 is the switch open (not connteted)

[asapreta]

Where he could take a look to see if something is wrong?

Also, another question, position 2 of the switch is not connected, right?

Your friend should take pictures and post them here for advice. If not look on your internet classifieds for video game repair guys and most of them are modders too.

Yes position 2 is the switch open (not connteted)

Hi, the guy is a modder too, but for some reason, after checking and re-checking, it's not working.
And he is using dosflash32 1.8

[n00bpwner360]

Is anyone else having problems getting this to work ?. I've soldered and cut the traces just like the pic, all went well (i think). Now when i boot up the pc with switch closed it tages ages to go through bios, and does'nt detect the drive. Also the eject stops working. If i boot with the switch open it goes through the bios normal detects it and the eject works. I don't think this is right or is it ?. If anyone can help please tell me what i'm doing wrong.
Thx

Your soldering looks fine. Here's what to do.

Don't even power on the drive, and boot up your pc.

If you're using Dos and DosFlash, do this.
Power on PC, go to Dos, power on drive w/ switch closed, then launch dosflash, you should get a 0x72 status, open the switch, then have dosflash read.

If doing it Windows, do this
power on pc, get jf up and running, select your sata port, power on drive with switch closed, send mtk intro, get 0x72, open switch, hit read.

Hope that helps.

[Hami]

Hello guys

Can anyone Verifying if this scheme works with both the internal flash being MX25L1005 as with Winbond.

I read one liteon 93450 with Flash MX25 but I can not read a liteon 83850v2, for this reason I have this doubt ... the status is 0x52, and not 0x72.

Thanks

Hey lastec,

I have a 93450-2 and I had a bit of a problem, all was done OK but i kept getting 0x51/0x52/0xD1, it was a bit of a head scratcher. So I sat and undone everything and had a think about what may be wrong, I bought the console to play around with this new info since Ive been ill and missed most of the LiteOn stuff since January (ish) then it struck me 'what if this drive aint playing ball since the unit has never been powered up?' , I asked carranz and he said it shouldnt matter which I thought also but I had been getting blank dumps (all FF's). So I got my Fianceé to go test the drive for me, run a few games etc, i found and OLD resistor in new packing that readout 18 Ohms and had no markings so i pressume it around 0.50 - 1w (poss higher) and a soldered it DIRECTLY to the rocker switch (toggle switch). I then shortened the kynar as short as possible (i repair/mod consoles and the head full of older data) and hooked it all up.
The bloody thing dumped first time with JF 1.62? and so I tested on 1.67 and that worked too!! Dosflash32 Just hangs, it recognises the drive and the SPI (This for you lasertec) and it was a Marconix (MX) MX25L1005.

I don't have key but I know its a valid dump, im just reading through the dump with hexworkshop to try sniff the key out manually (so i can brush up on some 360 stuff again) and I wont trying flashing original before I try on all the drives a have (Samsung (both revs) Hitachi/BenQ VAD 6038 & 6039 and 1 release LiteOns) till I am happy that all is well.

@ Everybody else

What does the 'Wisely Loves Lan' string all about? I also noticed refrences to DVD5 and DVD9 which I can only assume i drive operation related for single and dual layer disks?

Regards

Hami

EDIT: I nearly forgot too mention, I have built a further 2 switch mechanisims with greater Ohm values and Ive not had a problem with them. It may be the fact 22 Ohm's that I have are 1/4w but I will play more later

[asapreta]

Is anyone else having problems getting this to work ?. I've soldered and cut the traces just like the pic, all went well (i think). Now when i boot up the pc with switch closed it tages ages to go through bios, and does'nt detect the drive. Also the eject stops working. If i boot with the switch open it goes through the bios normal detects it and the eject works. I don't think this is right or is it ?. If anyone can help please tell me what i'm doing wrong.
Thx

Your soldering looks fine. Here's what to do.

Don't even power on the drive, and boot up your pc.

If you're using Dos and DosFlash, do this.
Power on PC, go to Dos, power on drive w/ switch closed, then launch dosflash, you should get a 0x72 status, open the switch, then have dosflash read.

If doing it Windows, do this
power on pc, get jf up and running, select your sata port, power on drive with switch closed, send mtk intro, get 0x72, open switch, hit read.

Hope that helps.

Using your tip to help my friend, when he fires up the drive power, JF reports 0x80. If he switch the power off and on, gets 0x52.
Any advice?

[n00bpwner360]

I second that question, WTF is Wisely Loves Lan? I'm not asking what exactly it does...but like did a MS coder just want to be funny (and knew that hackers would see it) and put in the words Wisley Loves Lan? Or in hex to they mean something adn it *happens* that it comes out to W.L.L. in ascii? Also, I believe it is the 83850 v1, isn't there a hidden message somewhere? Like "In memory of..." something something something...wtf...are these required for drive operation or are they just jokes or whatever (just plain text, not actual code) that MS put in there for $#!ts/giggles?

[MRA]

To make it clear: The method seems not to work with a Winbond SPI for now! Just drives with MX25L2005 are dumpable with my method right now! But I´m working on it. The problem is for now that there is no way to see what SPI is used, until it is recognized by Dosflash! So if you are really sure to have soldered everything right, then probably you just got one drive with Winbond SPI flash. The good thing is: from my experience most of the drives have an MX25L2005 SPI flash!

Stay tuned I hope to have a solution for this tomorrow!

[SuperK]

Here is what I did, it will save one soldering point and a switch. Instead of grounding it near the drive power receptacle, I just used the computers chassis.

• Find any screw on  your computer case that is clear of power sources or circuitry
• Loosen it just a little bit, wire in a paper clip and tighten the screw back up
• take a PC power switch/LED cable, or a jumper like in the previous posts and shove it over the paperclip
• take the resistor and using a sharp utility knife, narrow the resistor wire strand so it is much thinner, like thin enough to slip right into a via . It took me about 5 min.
• the other end of the resistor connect to one end of a wire
• the other end of the wire connect to either the jumper, or if its a led power cable, jump it inline with the paperclip, and there is your switch

this saves you one soldering point, and saves you a switch. Just gotta slide the jumper or power cable tip off to break the circuit once you get 0x72.

I used this method three times now without fail.

As for the other two points, if your resistor leads are long enough, cut one side off, and sharpen both ends and plug em right into the holes where you would normally solder the wire (on the left of MRA diagram), 2 more soldering points saved.

[Hami]

To make it clear: The method seems not to work with a Winbond SPI for now! Just drives with MX25L2005 are dumpable with my method right now! But I´m working on it. The problem is for now that there is no way to see what SPI is used, until it is recognized by Dosflash! So if you are really sure to have soldered everything right, then probably you just got one drive with Winbond SPI flash. The good thing is: from my experience most of the drives have an MX25L2005 SPI flash!

Stay tuned I hope to have a solution for this tomorrow!

@MRA

My brain is fried from other console/electronics related work so please dont think I am elite or trying to tell someone that knows better than myself, I am only asking as question since I have not read the winbond datasheet but could it be a case that the winbond SPI has different operating voltages? ie. The pulldown is too much in the case off the winbon wheras the Marconix works tip top with your method? Im just curious, ill check the datasheet tomorrow if you hav'nt replied/answered my query buddy.

I bought the 360 as a bit few hours distraction from other consoles and im feeling myself being sucked in again with interest and don't wanna really do any other work till I got a good idea of where the x360 movement is going lol. I shoulda just left till the full solution was out but there is never any fun in that

[MRA]

I hope it is that easy too!

[asapreta]

To make it clear: The method seems not to work with a Winbond SPI for now! Just drives with MX25L2005 are dumpable with my method right now! But I´m working on it. The problem is for now that there is no way to see what SPI is used, until it is recognized by Dosflash! So if you are really sure to have soldered everything right, then probably you just got one drive with Winbond SPI flash. The good thing is: from my experience most of the drives have an MX25L2005 SPI flash!

Stay tuned I hope to have a solution for this tomorrow!

If the status stays at 0x52 it possibly shows that an Winbond is present?

[bonzo pl]

25l4005=260KB

[MRA]

So here is some advice for all who are still having problems and especially for all of you who think the might have a board with Winbond SPI flash:

You should check your soldering again and again before trying one of these things!

-If you get status 0x52 instead of 0x72 it is very likely that the voltage for the SPI isn´t pulled down strong enough. Maybe your resistor is a little bigger than 22 Ohm? If it´s not try a slightly (!) smaller one, about 20 Ohm should be OK for you.


-If you have a Winbond SPI Flash inside (i know, you can´t be sure about this from the outside) you will probably get status 0x72 but instead of recognizing the Winbond flash it will be recognized as unknown flash chip (manufacturer and device ID 0xFF). If that is the case you can´t use Dosflash anymore, you have to use JF!

-start JF
-put the switch in position 1
-power drive
-in the MTKFlash Tab click "intro"
-it shoudl get "recognized" as unknown flash chip with status 0x72 like it was in Dosflash
-put switch in position 2
-click onto "intro" again
-now JF should recognize the Winbond SPI with status 0x72 and you can dump the whole drive

IMPORTANT: Don´t power the drive down between the 2 intros!

[Le4fy]

 :)SUCCESS big thxs to everyone involved and all who helped me. Turns out i had the winbond and the jf way worked perfect.

[boludomx]

:)SUCCESS big thxs to everyone involved and all who helped me. Turns out i had the winbond and the jf way worked perfect.

as well until my whole save file that tells me and tells me the key to the reader was not found, the f / w can be corrupted 

[Le4fy]

@boludomx
Jungle Jim posted this earlier in the thread

1. Open the dump in the target
  note** i. liteon encrypted f/w will not open on the source tab.
              ii. 93 f/w will show as 74 as they are very similar...
              iii. 83 v2 will look like 83 again very similar
2. right click in the target tab and select "Save Dummy"
3. now reopen this dummy on the source side.
4. open which ever Lite-on f/w YOU think is best in the target side
  note** 1.67 will NOT spoof a 93 correctly to non-encrypted types
  however, 167 will not alter the inquiry between lite-on revs
  so if you use the f/w Carranzafp posted the inquiry strings will be unaltered,
  but the key and serial info WILL be transferred.... and there will be no e66....
  Read his warnings
  http://www.xboxhacker.net/index.php?topic=12990.0
5. if you are feeling lucky flash it

We will endevour to release a fully functional version in the coming days.
Again we are under pressure due to unforseen circumstances.
I refuse to release half baked code. no ETA... ready when its ready....

[Oggy]

It's almost as if JF knew there would be a problem with the Winbond SPI

[prankster]

It's almost as if JF knew there would be a problem with the Winbond SPI

Strange that!

[thuanz]

32 ohms worked for me, i tried a 4 ohm one, it  just got hot, was  a big 2W one though
you'd think out of 2 broken power supplies you could find a 22ohm one..

It dumped with the 4ohm 2watt resistor though right?

Want to be brave and connect the resistor to ground and the 101 point on the back after reconnecting all the traces.

Edit: Actually that would be stupid as the watts would be 2.7 and fry the resistor

I'm going to head to the electronics shop tomorrow and pick up a 2.5ohm 5watt resistor and see if that can actually pull down 101 to below 1.8 volts without disconnecting the damn circuit

actually wouldn't dump, it drew too much power, light on the maximus powering it went off and couldn't be detected.