Liteon secrets? I'll share something with you

[MRA]

Winbond drives are DEFINATELY dumpable with the method I posted earlier! Maybe you just have got your hands on a really picky drive!

[Hami]

Winbond & Marconix are both dumpable via the MRA method. Some Drives are picky, i had a drive that was pain in arse sat at 0x52 for ages, I then used a diff Resistor (lower Ohm & 1/2 W) and I got a dump 1st time, although dos flash didnt wanna play I had to do in JF.

@MRA: 18 Ohms seems to be the sweet spot as I have had no problems since. We could maybe adjust the build details for the peeps having problems, so they can have either or.

[kleeenerprinz]

@MRA
which motherboard, exact model please, and did you use an extra SATA VIA Card or take the OnBoard SATA ?

[MRA]

Usually I use a nForce 3 onboard Sata Chipset for flashing. And the thing Hami mentioned I already told you 2 days agp (Reply #294): If you keep getting 0x52 instead of 0x72 --> use a slightly smaller resistor! Thanks Hami for your feedback!

[kleeenerprinz]

@MRA
i go down to 17 ohm and i works, not at the first try but on the third or four
it would recognize it in Status 0x11 with 256kb ready to read / write

how low can the resistance be ?

[asapreta]

Winbond & Marconix are both dumpable via the MRA method. Some Drives are picky, i had a drive that was pain in arse sat at 0x52 for ages, I then used a diff Resistor (lower Ohm & 1/2 W) and I got a dump 1st time, although dos flash didnt wanna play I had to do in JF.

@MRA: 18 Ohms seems to be the sweet spot as I have had no problems since. We could maybe adjust the build details for the peeps having problems, so they can have either or.

I just got the dump with one 18 ohm resistor. My friend has soldered everything fine, but I think, he didn't tried it with JF. With Dosflash32 I wasn't able to get the drive recognized.

Now I need to read the thread again to give him what to do with the dump, how to get it reconized as a valid source fw in JF for flashing.

[MRA]

For testing I went down to 10 Ohm and it didn´t kill the drive. But leave the resistor as big as possible! Only if you get 0x52 you should try a smaller one!

[kainy]

@MRA
i go down to 17 ohm and i works, not at the first try but on the third or four
it would recognize it in Status 0x11 with 256kb ready to read / write

how low can the resistance be ?

Well I posted earlier, that I've tried the MRA method on a 74850c drive and it returned 0x11 status with recognizing the whole flash. As I had the firmware already, I've tested the dumped firmware. It was recognized by firmtool ( in dos ) and patched successfully ( well I'm patching a patched firm but I think this is not a problem ), and it now runs with no problems. But in case you dump it, be sure to test it first at a spare drive.

[SuperK]

Something was bugging me...

Many people are witholding flashing there's drives 'cause they are waiting for LT firm. My ùestion is for thos who want the 1.6 ixtreme now nad to preflash to LT later.

Is 1.6 template dumpable directly from jungleflasher ( or dosflash, preferably ), without soldering the whole thing again, or a preflash is done the exactly same way?


I think the question about offline flagging the consoles with 1.6 ixtreme is not aligable for a cirtain answer, so it is all about the chance, and waiting for LT is the better choice. ( just want to know, what to advise people, both going to use live, and not )

I have a 93450c-2 and its not dumpable from ixtreme, in my case I would have to resolder/cut each time I would like to mod. Easy enough though because I have a solder remover wick which is really good at absorbing solder and breaking the circuit for me, so no actual cutting. And since I have a solderfree method of bridging the points and grounding, the only soldering I do is to re-bridge the traces.

Ok so dumped a couple of drives successfully today although the thought of having to solder hundreds of these drives is killing me.

So... I've been trying to build a solder free tool to speed up the process. SuperK any images of what you have built would make life easier for everyone.

If anyone has one working kindly post an image and description of what you used.

Thanks in advance!

the wires I used are off of one of these

http://www.xavbox.com/photos/spiderchip/spiderchip.jpg

They are really small and fit right into the via holes no problem, and although they look short, they are long enough to bridge the two points. then for the one via with the cut on it I connected the small wire directly to the resistor which was connected to a wire that is from a computer reset switch. I removed the switch and connected the resistor to the end which I removed the switch from, and the other end with the header on it that plugs into the motherboard I shoved a paperclip into, which was screwed to the host computers chassis. This got me my 0x72, and when it was time to turn the switch 'off' I simply pulled the header and this 'disabled' the switch. Doing it this way saved me 3 solder points, 4 if you include the one i didnt have to do by the drive power header, and only soldering I needed was to bridge the cuts once completed soldering.

These wires might be hard to find but they are out there. You might be able to find some off a dead spiderchip, thats what I did. My friend borked my modchip (and xbox1 are softmoddable now anyways) so i didnt require it any longer and didnt bother to attempt to fix it.

[Hami]

@MRA: I think if i get time from my console buisness (Its crazy busy at this time of year) I may design some kits for people with problems but only with your permission since it would be based on your instructions. I just wanna add in feature which can poss limit drive damage and the maximus/ck3 tool also (maybe a diode incase someone puts wire onto a wrong vcc rail and sends high voltage back to kit/pc).
I never really thought about it till today but not everyone has resister/capacitor (Components) like we do and the hasle of getting the right components or accessing them can be a pain for some people.

I'll hunt for some electronic item that most people thould have and instructions how too utilise the parts. I may possible design something that uses 10mm x 10mm vero board so peeps can switch out resistors if they have problems etc.

This sound ok and in general ok with you m8? I dont wanna see a company assemble a kit that costs pennies to make DIY style then sell on at HUGE profits prices.

[asapreta]

@MRA: I think if i get time from my console buisness (Its crazy busy at this time of year) I may design some kits for people with problems but only with your permission since it would be based on your instructions. I just wanna add in feature which can poss limit drive damage and the maximus/ck3 tool also (maybe a diode incase someone puts wire onto a wrong vcc rail and sends high voltage back to kit/pc).
I never really thought about it till today but not everyone has resister/capacitor (Components) like we do and the hasle of getting the right components or accessing them can be a pain for some people.

I'll hunt for some electronic item that most people thould have and instructions how too utilise the parts. I may possible design something that uses 10mm x 10mm vero board so peeps can switch out resistors if they have problems etc.

This sound ok and in general ok with you m8? I dont wanna see a company assemble a kit that costs pennies to make DIY style then sell on at HUGE profits prices.

Nice Idea!
it would be interesting to have a trimpot on resistor place to give us a "safe range" to drop the vcc.

[extreme911]

Please, can someone give more detailed guide on what to do after you got your 93450 Firmware dumped.
Thanks in advance!

[Hami]

Please, can someone give more detailed guide on what to do after you got your 93450 Firmware dumped.
Thanks in advance!

Are you a mind reader buddy ? hehe Variable resistors are SLIGHTLY more expensive than standard through hole ones, if we could find a Resistance that suits all we could use a SMD to make VERY cheap.

[eXOBeX]

Nice Idea!
it would be interesting to have a trimpot on resistor place to give us a "safe range" to drop the vcc.

Nice Idea!

I just had a dig through my old resistor tub, finding myself a chunky 10 ohm resistor plus a pair of even chunkier 10 ohm wirewound presets!  Goodness knows where they came from, they're probably older than me!  Anyway, by linking the three together in series I'll be able to set to anything between 10 and 30 ohms.  Happy days!

[Hami]

Nice Idea!
it would be interesting to have a trimpot on resistor place to give us a "safe range" to drop the vcc.

Nice Idea!

I just had a dig through my old resistor tub, finding myself a chunky 10 ohm resistor plus a pair of even chunkier 10 ohm wirewound presets!  Goodness knows where they came from, they're probably older than me!  Anyway, by linking the three together in series I'll be able to set to anything between 10 and 30 ohms.  Happy days!

I think a zener SHOULD be introduced to circuit to stop power travling back to Xtractor/CK3 or even PC if a new modder taps onto a wrong VCC rail? Saves repairing or buying a new peice off kit? What you think buddy?

[mad3d]

I have followed all steps , got a clean dump, key is working ( flashed/spoofed another spare benq drive I have ), erased and flashed FW , removed wires and fixed lines

BUT

drive seems dead, its not powering at all, does someone had same problem? what could be wrong ?

btw: Dumped again and hacked FW seems ok, it does matches with carranzafp dummy_fw spoofed with my drive key.

[dakorl]

mra-method worked fine on my 93450. took 93450-ix-1.6-template, manually spoofed key and drive-serial. tested it - everything ok! 
wanted to spoof a benq with ix-1.41 but always get e66.
what i'm doing wrong?   

[eXOBeX]

I think a zener SHOULD be introduced to circuit to stop power travling back to Xtractor/CK3 or even PC if a new modder taps onto a wrong VCC rail? Saves repairing or buying a new peice off kit? What you think buddy?

Are you talking about using a 1.8v zener diode between the cut-off pad and ground?  Might be a bit too heavy a load for whatever's powering that pad, as everything above 1.8v would be shorted to ground through the zener!  Plus you've got no adjustment available then, you've got 1.8v and that's it.  Adding a resistor would give some current limiting, but you've still got 1.8v as your absolute base voltage, and can only go higher.

A new modder should be tapping into the supply point exactly as shown on the picture, not just picking what he thinks is best.  If developing a commercial or kit version, best bet would be to take the supply from the Xtractor-to-drive power cable.  If you want to add protection, add a 20x5mm fuse.

[d05register]

Hi guys

In this post http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=697967
retarded Iriez (if he is that one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZUZEvfofB8) says that
"Result(scene): c4e creates foundmy agreement, goes public 8/03/09 and geremia releases decryption routine to combat foundmy agreement within 48 hours (08/05/09)"

Does anyone know where is that info? I have seen all Geremia's posts here http://www.xboxhacker.net/index.php?action=profile;u=118;sa=showPosts
and he has posted nothing from October 27, 2008 to August 08, 2009 

[thuanz]

is it just me or does anyone else find lifting 2 pins quicker and easier than cutting and rejoining traces?