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Author Topic: Liteon secrets? I'll share something with you  (Read 147273 times)
glaze83
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« Reply #260 on: December 02, 2009, 04:39:37 AM »

neehelpask

Your switch has four points it looks like

solder a wire to where it says 1 and a wire to where it says on just below it

to turn the switch on you move the little tab to on -- that connects 101 to ground through the resistor

once your flash is detected you move the switch back.
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kleeenerprinz
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« Reply #261 on: December 02, 2009, 05:03:30 AM »

Why someone ask which Switch it needed !?
Its a normal ON/OFF Switch or you dont need a switch - put the two cable together
(Switch Position 1 = closed), open the two cables (Switch Position 2 = open)
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oc
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« Reply #262 on: December 02, 2009, 05:26:43 AM »

Well, Geremia told the public HOW we disable the sensor. He released the method.

Now that the method is 'out in the public' the maker of the car/sensor can now FIX this lack of security in the sensor and can make the car NOT go over 120 (prevent us from dumping the drive).

Hi Iriez, first of all I'm not going on anyone's side. I can see where you're coming from. But please let me try and understand what's going on. So what you mean was Geremia should have just released the firmware instead of how to get the firmware? Kindly excuse me Iriez I don't know anything about hacking. I'm just here because this is very interesting to me.

I have addressed that in the following recollection(sorry, its very long):
http://www.xbox-scene.com/xbox1data/sep/EkVAZuuEVEYXFalxgA.php


I hope that clarifies everything. I hope everyone can (for the most part) get the EFF off my back now Sad
Quote
So while c4e and geremia have both done good and bad (relatively speaking!), they are both good people at heart. We know they are very very good programmers  Their work is flawless! Lets all work together and make the decisions with a team mentality! With great minds thinking alike, then there is recourse! Not all is lost on one poor soul's decision!

Hi Iriez, ask for donation, I think will have many people pay.

I hope JF1.7 not end up a pay version.   Sad Cry
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kleeenerprinz
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« Reply #263 on: December 02, 2009, 05:27:16 AM »

ATM its only possible to READ the LiteOn v3 Drives
but its not possible to WRITE them ? right ?

we need another flashable Drive to insert there the ixtreme firmware
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Shaun
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« Reply #264 on: December 02, 2009, 05:53:08 AM »

I have addressed that in the following recollection(sorry, its very long):
http://www.xbox-scene.com/xbox1data/sep/EkVAZuuEVEYXFalxgA.php

I hope that clarifies everything. I hope everyone can (for the most part) get the EFF off my back now Sad

Shame that gets missed amongst the rest of the tripe - an interesting read.
In essence that I do agree with you re the longevity of these things.
However, your sink or swim moment
For whatever reason you chose the path you did, you (and the rest of said team) chose the path to make money out of piracy.
As a POC, the initial work done discovering the firmware duplication and writing of ss into the new area (and yes I do remember the initial 30 odd page thread here about it) - I get that the info about how it was done got made public then removed, but was the source and a means to an end to implement the kk exploit.
The only other reason to continue re and dev this work was for piracy.
Now, at the sink or swim moment we basically are talking about a moral decision.
I happen to know that the whole of 'your team' appear to have gone to great lengths to circumvent a copyright protection scheme(s) which is akin to a conspiracy in the term of the law and is some serious $#!t.
That aside, but when you chose to follow a path to charge for it, for whatever reason, I think the moral is evident.
There are many fact which are beyond me, like whats needed to put all the bits together and how to fund and find bits of of hardware which exist without encryption.
At the end of the day, all these things are driven by greed, it just depends on the level.

My only other q.
If we are to believe what geremia says (atm I have no reason not to), then other members of your close team may have appeared to have been using the secret method with the new drives anyway.  Its not hard to see that a few pins on an ic have been messed with and to concentrate on what they do, meaning that the writing was possibly on the wall re this new super secret hack.
« Last Edit: December 02, 2009, 05:58:14 AM by Shaun » Logged
trickyp
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« Reply #265 on: December 02, 2009, 06:25:04 AM »

One thing that nobody seems to have mentioned is that MS have to have a system that they have the ability to inject the consoles key into the drive, without this the manufacture costs of the console would increase if the drives had to be individually programmed with key at the time the drive is made. I am sure is more complex to change the key in the motherboard than in the drive.

Also at the repair level I am sure they dont want the cost of replacing a complete unit when only a drive has gone faulty, they want new drive - program - fit and ship. I know they do this as I received back an xbox where the mainboard was replaced with later version but had the still flash drive installed (Yes I did say the drive was still flashed!!!!)

Just my thoughts.
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gemet
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« Reply #266 on: December 02, 2009, 07:50:05 AM »

Quote
no need to quote, I can see the picture just fine the first time.

 You have a wire going to the sata connector when it works better on the power connector (easier too) also you have what looks like a couple of dry joints.
Brgds/ Dan

Hey danthaman , its not like you think , its soldered INSIDE the via so you cant possibly see that, just like on any PStwo mod.

Also, somebody requested the switch picture ... i dont understand why...

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braza
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« Reply #267 on: December 02, 2009, 08:36:06 AM »

Wanted Liteon V1 original firmware to restore XBOX360 to factore defaults!
Is possible?
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kipper2k
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« Reply #268 on: December 02, 2009, 08:46:32 AM »

Is ok if i do same this ?



Becouse i hav this switch


And not understand how i need use it whit this




  it won't  work the way you show the wiring on your switch.  You have a 2 port jumper switch there which can turn on/off 2 individual circuits.  You need to move the left wire on that switch to the pin underneath the other wire so that switch 1 is active and can be used. when the little switch is flipped to the "ON" position, you guessed it, its on
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tul
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« Reply #269 on: December 02, 2009, 09:23:43 AM »

this method isnt hard enought to understand, even for me that im completly noob at soldering, but what if besides the cuting we could just override the tracks that we need to disable, rebuilding the tracks is what scare me.
this is just my 2 cents, coz some1 with the skills can prolly find a way to overid the tracks without the needing of cuting them
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Biteable
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« Reply #270 on: December 02, 2009, 10:50:02 AM »

this method isnt hard enought to understand, even for me that im completly noob at soldering, but what if besides the cuting we could just override the tracks that we need to disable, rebuilding the tracks is what scare me.
this is just my 2 cents, coz some1 with the skills can prolly find a way to overid the tracks without the needing of cuting them

You could always use something like this to repair your cut track
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180439708067&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
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Le4fy
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« Reply #271 on: December 02, 2009, 11:32:22 AM »

Is anyone else having problems getting this to work ?. I've soldered and cut the traces just like the pic, all went well (i think). Now when i boot up the pc with switch closed it tages ages to go through bios, and does'nt detect the drive. Also the eject stops working. If i boot with the switch open it goes through the bios normal detects it and the eject works. I don't think this is right or is it ?. If anyone can help please tell me what i'm doing wrong.
Thx
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BoXXDr
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« Reply #272 on: December 02, 2009, 11:49:12 AM »

Is anyone else having problems getting this to work ?. I've soldered and cut the traces just like the pic, all went well (i think). Now when i boot up the pc with switch closed it tages ages to go through bios, and does'nt detect the drive. Also the eject stops working. If i boot with the switch open it goes through the bios normal detects it and the eject works. I don't think this is right or is it ?. If anyone can help please tell me what i'm doing wrong.
Thx

You should not have any drivers installed for your SATA controller. Only port i/o. Most of use here use a Via 6421 pci card add-on to avoid any headaches.

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nottm3
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« Reply #273 on: December 02, 2009, 12:16:37 PM »

This is the last picture Iīm going to take. Everything is in this thread. If you want to know where to cut and solder --> Take a look at the diagram



I have connect and cut all the wire as the diagram, got status 0x72 on dosflash after switching from pos1 to pos2 and click read dosflash return me "unknown flash chip".  It's an 74850 drive with xtractor for power and via6421  running on port i/o.  what could be my problem?

Thanks
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danthaman
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« Reply #274 on: December 02, 2009, 12:23:18 PM »

Is anyone else having problems getting this to work ?. I've soldered and cut the traces just like the pic, all went well (i think). Now when i boot up the pc with switch closed it tages ages to go through bios, and does'nt detect the drive. Also the eject stops working. If i boot with the switch open it goes through the bios normal detects it and the eject works. I don't think this is right or is it ?. If anyone can help please tell me what i'm doing wrong.
Thx

You should not have any drivers installed for your SATA controller. Only port i/o. Most of use here use a Via 6421 pci card add-on to avoid any headaches.


Actually I had exact same prob w/ Via 6421 w/no drivers... It seems even in dos it wouldn't eject. Suffice to say mine was eventually shown to be fired mind u I started-out doing the 1.8v shorting to 101 method (lifting pins etc.. I noticed a power to ground short at one stage when I was sure the rig was done as  per MRA recomendation ....

Brgds/Dan
ps:is there stiil no-1 willing to claim succsess w/83850c v2 dump???
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BoXXDr
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« Reply #275 on: December 02, 2009, 12:30:00 PM »

I have connect and cut all the wire as the diagram, got status 0x72 on dosflash after switching from pos1 to pos2 and click read dosflash return me "unknown flash chip".  It's an 74850 drive with xtractor for power and via6421  running on port i/o.  what could be my problem?

I have done three of these now.
First one i did was a 74850 and i broke the bottom pad labeled pin101. On that one i removed some epoxy and soldered my wire to the real pin101 on the top and got a dump no problem.
2nd one I learned my lesson and did a perfect job installing wires and that one had same problem you are describing Status 72 and unknown flash. Sad I gave up as i already had the key. I was just practicing for a 8xxxx v2 or a 9xxxx

Then my 3rd one was the real deal. It was a 9xxxx and it dumped perfectly. I got the key and injected it into the firmware template that Maximus posted and it worked. I didn't do anything with the drive serial data. I could figure out the best way to inject it and it doesn't seem to matter. It wont be going on live anyhow.

It would be nice to know why i only got 2 out of 3 to work. On a positive note the drive that i couldn't dump this way still worked perfectly after i rejoined traces so nothing lost. Smiley


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NotMe
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« Reply #276 on: December 02, 2009, 12:46:45 PM »

One thing that nobody seems to have mentioned is that MS have to have a system that they have the ability to inject the consoles key into the drive, without this the manufacture costs of the console would increase if the drives had to be individually programmed with key at the time the drive is made. I am sure is more complex to change the key in the motherboard than in the drive.

Also at the repair level I am sure they dont want the cost of replacing a complete unit when only a drive has gone faulty, they want new drive - program - fit and ship. I know they do this as I received back an xbox where the mainboard was replaced with later version but had the still flash drive installed (Yes I did say the drive was still flashed!!!!)

Your first paragraph has a technical error, and first paragraph contradicts your second.  You state they inject the console's key into the drive.  The drive has it's own key and that gets injected to the console.  You then state it is likely to be complex to inject the DVD key into the motherboard, yet your second paragraph describes exactly that.  You sent in a system, got system back with the same hacked drive paired to your new motherboard (DVD key injected into MB).  It is quite easy for MSFT to change the contents of the NAND on the motherboard.
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MRA
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« Reply #277 on: December 02, 2009, 01:56:07 PM »

@Le4fy: Everything seems normal, just power the drive after booting is finished!

@nottm3: Sounds like you soldered something wrong or used a to small resistor.

@danthaman: As I already told you you seem to have fried your drive, so please stop posting this problem, it will just confuse the others.

@BoXXDr and all of you who still didnīt get it: The first method with epoxyremoval and pin lifting sucks, use the other one instead!!!!

And please stop posting and quoting 100 pictures, it really trashes this thread!
« Last Edit: December 02, 2009, 01:59:05 PM by MRA » Logged
lasertec
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« Reply #278 on: December 02, 2009, 02:00:25 PM »

Hello guys

Can anyone Verifying if this scheme works with both the internal flash being MX25L1005 as with Winbond.

I read one liteon 93450 with Flash MX25 but I can not read a liteon 83850v2, for this reason I have this doubt ... the status is 0x52, and not 0x72.

Thanks

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BoXXDr
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« Reply #279 on: December 02, 2009, 02:26:51 PM »

@BoXXDr and all of you who still didnīt get it: The first method with epoxyremoval and pin lifting sucks, use the other one instead!!!!

Re-read my post. I damaged the bottom pad doing your method on my first attempt. I am sure I wont be the last one to say the pad broke off. Once i broke the pad the only alternate point i knew of was the the top in between the chip leg and the capacitor.



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