USB SPI Flasher with PIC18F2455 - now with source and binaries

[mosses]

j2b1 ground

edit: i m using pic 18f2550 using the exact settings in winpic800 as in this pdf  http://www.foxdelta.com/products/programmer/art2003/ART2003-LVP.pdf

[maximilian0017]

j2b1 ground

Shouldn't blue be ground?, or did you change the layout of the board?

I also do not see a resistor for the led.(not that it should matter to much)

[dak]

"Looking for usb interface device
Could not detect a flash controller!
Can not continue"

If the flasher gets recognized by nandpro but no flash config, it are 100% your wires going to the mobo either not soldered good or soldered to the wrong points.
(tell me if you had probs with the tutorial and ill change those parts -> pm)

[dpacro]

If anyone need  you can pm me if you want a fully built device  to dump your nand.

Professionally built with all needed components : PCB board, 18f2455, 1 reset button, 1 prog button, 24mhz clock, mini usb port, leds.

It dumps -r16 within 5mins.

I will include a Cd with all the tools needed.

If you need some helps , i have some available.

Well, i hope nobody will be mad of me by doing this little post/add.

It's just because i see so many questions and people that have difficulties doing the device.

   Peace

[mosses]

j2b1 ground

Shouldn't blue be ground?, or did you change the layout of the board?

I also do not see a resistor for the led.(not that it should matter to much)

Wow thanks for pointing it out "got a news flasher for myself i m dumb"
rewired now its working like a charm

[mosses]

"Looking for usb interface device
Could not detect a flash controller!
Can not continue"

If the flasher gets recognized by nandpro but no flash config, it are 100% your wires going to the mobo either not soldered good or soldered to the wrong points.
(tell me if you had probs with the tutorial and ill change those parts -> pm)

yr guide is 100% correct it was me who couldn't figure out how to pay attention to small things
awesome work for putting everything together and making mini tutorial for noobs like us.

[threesixtyuser]

There, my first post at XboxHacker!

Haven't got much console modding experience yet (Xbox 1 softmod, couple of chipped Wii's and Xbox360 Drive flashes) but after reading around here for a while I figured I wanted to change that

I have a Jasper console from june 4th 2009 which I hope is Exploitable, it has the 7371 kernel and hope it has the right CB.
To find this out I want to build the USB SPI flasher but do have a few questions about it:

- First of all: I read that it's best to change the resonator to a 12MHz Chrystal with two 18pF capacitors to GND, did in interper this correct in the below schematic:



- 2nd: I notice in one of the pics in te first post that pin headers are used, this would be great for my purpose because I want to be able to flash multiple 360's with one flasher and build an LPT cable as well, just in case the USB version causes problems. Can these headers simply be soldered to the board like you normally would (simply run the pin headers through the board) without the risk of damaging/ruining something (do have the soldering skills, just want to make sure it can be done easilly).

The pic:


If the above is tricky can I use an extra piece of CB where all the wires go to with a connector on it to connect the flasher? (which in this case could also contain a JTAG, NAND protect and r6t3 switch mentioned below if needed/possible) or can this cause troubles with the flasher?

- 3d: I recon it's possible to make the JTAG hack switchable by placing a triple-throw switch between the 3 wires?

- 4th: I would like to know if it would be necessary/smart to remove the R6T3 resistor after flashing XBR?
If so I would like to make it switchable just to make it future proof (who knows why it will be needed sometime in the future and I have to solder to the board anyway) by soldering a 10K resistor with a switch to the same circuit board as my usb SPI flasher and two wires with e.g. a pin header tot the two points in this pic:



- 5th: Is it necessary/smart to do the NAND write protect as well:



Thx in advance!!

p.s. I'll try to create a drawing of what I think would be my ideal set-up
here's an image which basically explains what I was thinking about:

[Arakon]

nand write protect makes no sense since you can't go online with a jtagged console anyways. switching the jtag hack doesn't make any sense either, as the hack as such isn't detectable and doesn't cause any issues with any firmware.
it's advisable to remove r6t3, switchable isn't of much use, since XBR/freeboot don't need it, and if you do any official update that needs it, you kill all hope for homebrew on that console.

[threesixtyuser]

I'm not planning on going online, the reason why I'm asking about the NAND Write protect and R6T3 because of updates on game disks, just to make sure me or (especially) my girlfriend can't accidentally install one (not in order atm because XBR runs the latest dash, but who knows in the future).

The switching part of the Write protect and R6T3 is more for fun and who knows if I need it in the future.

All in all it doesn't cost too much to create the above setup, few extra switches and a piece of CB, just wondering if it will work this way?

Any ideas on my other questions about the pin-headers and modified schematic?

[maximilian0017]

Thats a lot of questions...
1. Yes, that is the way to connect a crystal, if you already have an existing crystal without a datasheet i would also order some 27 pF capacitors if it gives problems(costs are next to nothing)

2. If you really have the skills and the tools for it the placing of the connectors is quite easy, use desoldering braid for it, maby use some quickchip or lead based solder to soften up the ROHS solder if one of the holes wont cooperate, take care that these are 2mm spaced connectors and not 2,54mm.(old xbox 1's are a nice conveneant place to get connectors/cables)
If you arent that good with soldering or do not have the tools i would reccomend just soldering wires to the points.
Also keep in mind that you have to remove the board from its housing for the placing of the connectors causing extra stress to the motherboard and that may cause the RROD to appear(sooner).

3. Yes it is, but that would be completely useless and a waist of your time, just make the decision: Homebrew or MsLive(No way back!!), as told in Arakons post.

4. Again: Homebrew(remove resistor) or Live(keep in place), if you want to return the Xbox to stock you can easely remove the jtag wires, install the resistor and flash back the original nand.

5. Write protext the Nand isn't needed with XBR.

6. If you build the flasher just add a connector strip for the SPI wires, if you do not make the cable to long you should be fine if you connect the opposing connector to the xbox solder points.

7. There is no need for an LPT cable, if you build the Pic flasher correctly it will work.

Wise words once heard: K.I.S. Keep It Simple!!

P.s. Yes i also had an Amiga and a Commodore 64/128 with a lot of switches, almost never used any of them(except for the 68020/68060copro and the Action replay switch/button on the Amiga).

[threesixtyuser]

Wise words indeed other wise words once heard: "You can never ask too many questions"

Thx a lot for this very clear reply!

Regarding the write protect NAND: What if a new dashboard-update comes out included on game DVD's and you accidentally install it with XBR flashed?

[dak]

If r6t3 is removed your efuses wont be blown, the dashupdate will be applied and the xbox wont boot, because of a wrong efuse value.
You just write back your nandbackup and will be fine.

This is how it was untill now, no idea if M$ could come up with an update that does something preventing you from the steps to get back.

edit: thats without nand write protection
edit2: forgot how the update works, maybe it wont be jtaggable then... some1 should clear that point up

[threesixtyuser]

Thx! Write protect might just be the right thing to do, all it costs is an extra switch and some patience. Guess there's no alternate point than the chip's pin? (except for one on the bottom of the mainboard, but this requires completely removing the mainboard, but need to do that for R6T3 anyhow)

If i use a 12M, 18PF crystal I need 18PF capacitors as well right?

And one last question and I'm ready to go: is this the right diode for the JTAG hack?
http://nl.farnell.com/fairchild-semiconductor/1n914/diode-small-signal-do-35/dp/9843817

[maximilian0017]

Thx! Write protect might just be the right thing to do, all it costs is an extra switch and some patience. Guess there's nog alternate point than the chip's pin?

one last question and I'm ready to go: is this the right diode for the JTAG hack?
http://nl.farnell.com/fairchild-semiconductor/1n914/diode-small-signal-do-35/dp/9843817

XBR has it's own fuses, so i wouldn't worry about the flash getting written as long as you removed the R6T3 resistor, worst case is that you have to reflash.
If you do the Write Protect switch and have it enabled there is no telling what will happen and go wrong, so please don't install it.
I'm sure the aXBR guys will figure out a way to disable updating.

Farnel also has the 1N4148 (NL die overal vermeld staat voor de JTAG hack /NL), would not change too much or you can get problems that no one can help you with.
Also your local electronicsshop sells these guranteed (or they should be put down) as you are in the Netherlands.(saw nl.farnell.com)

[threesixtyuser]

netherlands indeed, well seen.

so http://nl.farnell.com/nxp/1n4148/diode-high-speed-do-35/dp/1081177 would be better? Is one of the cheapest.

[maximilian0017]

Thats the one.

BTW where in NL are you located?

[threesixtyuser]

near eindhoven, btw, do you know the answer to: If i use a 12M, 18PF crystal I need 18PF capacitors as well right?

This is the one i Ordered: http://nl.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1611710

Ordered the needed parts, fortunatelly didn't need everything cause most of it is pretty standard (just the Crystal, PIC, a base for it and some connectors and wiring for moving around different consoles.

Thx a lot for all info and sorry for polluting the last few pages now let's hope my console is actually exploitable!

[KEKSi]

im working on that thing for 3 days now.
i allways got error : xxx programming bla bla bla.

my cables are very short.

10cm in xbox from points to rj45 connector
10cm from rj45 conenctor to broadboard

the solution to fix this problem was to remove all the 100ohm resistors from the brodboard.
just the 10k r is stil present.

i dont know why it acts like this but who cares. its working now

[maximilian0017]

the solution to fix this problem was to remove all the 100ohm resistors from the brodboard.
just the 10k r is stil present.

i dont know why it acts like this but who cares. its working now

Feeding 5v into a 3,3v xbox is bad, Looks like you have a powerproblem somewhere or to thin wires.

[KEKSi]

im thinking the same but i really dont know where.
most of the connections are made with basic solder wire.

only GRD and VCC wires are copper wires.

i will take a deeper look into it tomorrow.

( need my cam ac cable damn )