USB SPI Flasher with PIC18F2455 - now with source and binaries

[max19]

maximilian0017, thanks for your help.

I made more short diode cable. Restore the original nand file and flashed it again.

It's now working quite well.
Thank you very much.  

[cool_recep]

maximilian0017, thanks for your help.

I made more short diode cable. Restore the original nand file and flashed it again.

It's now working quite well.
Thank you very much.  

Yeah and ask me. Spent the whole ****ing night soldering the PIC. The result: A BIG ***ING ZERO!

I don't understand. I told the man I want a breadboard but that ***hole gave me solderless breadboard. I don't have that kind of a brain to use a damn solderless breadboard.

I went to YouTube and guess what: a guy tells how to use solderless breadboard but he has no idea about why he is in this ****ing world!

I won't give up though! I won't fall for LPT!

[lithiumC]

I had the same issues as spegs21, for anyone who has a flashconfig when no device is connected ensure the second hex digit of config 1 is E and not F like in post 630. Again for me it was 0E22 for config 1 that worked in winpic800.

maximilian0017? do you have any idea what the difference between E - HS oscillator, PLL enabled, HS used by USB and the F version of HS oscillator, PLL enabled, HS used by USB.

[lithiumC]

Had the same problem as spegs21 any idea why the oscillator bits have an effect, I noticed 1110 or E in config1H causes no issue but 1111 or F in config1H causes a lot of issues. According to the programming specifications the first bit should have no effect. The document lists config1H as being 111X for FOSC0 to FOSC3 meaning that bit 0 should have no effect.

Any clue as to why it does?

[maximilian0017]

Any clue as to why it does?

Really cannot find any clue why this happens, you can reproduce this every time?, and if you read back the config it is stil the same?
Maby its errata from the chip or the manual?

Maby the big guns Cory1492 or DarkstarTM could jump in?

[cool_recep]

OK. Why the hell does this does not work? Everything is right. PIC is programmed etc.

Look at my last post.

[ReverseAffect]

well cool_recep, as you know the way we were doing them on the length of wire and cicruit boards was to the extremes enough..
just look at your setup and think about the wire length ...no one said it's a kit to play with
anything with a crystal pretty much needs to be tight and short with a firm weild
1) your design is way off balance  ...
2) lack of info as in why don't this work ain't going to cut it...
3) here's a really good hint.. look at your chips #1 pin...little backwards? you have the #1 pin on a usb data?
if i were you either learn how to do it right...or just give it all up and buy one...you prob fried,
the internal reg now at this point or shorted something out...you can try to flip the chip around and see what happens...
you do know the little dot on the chip is #1 pin right?
good luck...

[cool_recep]

well cool_recep, as you know the way we were doing them on the length of wire and cicruit boards was to the extremes enough..
just look at your setup and think about the wire length ...no one said it's a kit to play with
anything with a crystal pretty much needs to be tight and short with a firm weild
1) your design is way off balance  ...
2) lack of info as in why don't this work ain't going to cut it...
3) here's a really good hint.. look at your chips #1 pin...little backwards? you have the #1 pin on a usb data?
if i were you either learn how to do it right...or just give it all up and buy one...you prob fried,
the internal reg now at this point or shorted something out...you can try to flip the chip around and see what happens...
you do know the little dot on the chip is #1 pin right?
good luck...

Thank you for your reply. I have redesigned it now. The chip was wrong placed beacuse of this sceheme:

http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?PHPSESSID=59767e1f1bbc05b9c605e86c3d9e4df2&topic=12306.620

As you can see, I placed the chip so that "PIC 18F2455" can be read exactly the same. I did not notice the numbers...

I can not buy it cuz nobody sell is it here. No ready-to-JTAG circuits...That's why I am struggling...

I placed the chip right...again nothing happens. It is soooo unversal that it does not work at all! Perfect!



Crystal's pins are 14&15 not 13 & 15

Thanks

One more question: I don't know if the red thing and green thing are all OK. I bought them right but  maybe they should replace each other's place. (Did it though but did not work either)

[ReverseAffect]

crystal pins are 9 and 10......to many errors still pin 17 you have goin gto ground when it should be left open(no connection) that's for a updated boot loader...
and your other hookup was you had 5 volts running into the data usb line....I don't think that pic is of any good no more...
can you recheck it with the programmer again to see if there are any reading or writing errors?

and where you located?

[cool_recep]

crystal pins are 9 and 10......to many errors still pin 17 you have goin gto ground when it should be left open(no connection) that's for a updated boot loader...
and your other hookup was you had 5 volts running into the data usb line....I don't think that pic is of any good no more...
can you recheck it with the programmer again to see if there are any reading or writing errors?

and where you located?

They are actually 9 & 10. I spoke according to breadboard's numbers

I have left pin 17 open but again no luck. Checked the PIC, verified the hex OK. Rewrite Hex OK. All OK.

BTW, I did not solder the PIC to XBOX yet. It should detect standalone too, right?

I am in Turkey. Going to get a normal breadboard and will try with LPT untill I get the USB work.

Thank you for your reply.

[ReverseAffect]

on pin 1(and when i say pin(s) i mean chip only...
resistor for pin 1 you have brown black red that's only 1000 Ohms instead of 10000 Ohms (10k)it shoud be brown black orange...you still have pin 17 grounded ...only ground it in boot loader mode ...and you already have it programmed...

and what number crystal do you have? that whole crystal,cap setup should be tighter to the chip...as stated make sure there close as possible to the chips pins.
C3--- should be 0.1uf to 10uf..you have  a 47k(the green one)..
C4--- should be 0.22uf to 12uf...you have a 0.22k(the orange one)..
C1 and C2 (small brown ones)should match the crystal you installed you can match it from here Read The Bottom on the crystal matching
all this little stuff counts for it to gen up and lock on freq.....remember this ain't some science fair project that can be tossed together..
I'd give you an F anyways for the rigging...lol

fix that all up and hope you didn't fry the nothing.....

[cool_recep]

on pin 1(and when i say pin(s) i mean chip only...
resistor for pin 1 you have brown black red that's only 1000 Ohms instead of 10000 Ohms (10k)it shoud be brown black orange...you still have pin 17 grounded ...only ground it in boot loader mode ...and you already have it programmed...

and what number crystal do you have? that whole crystal,cap setup should be tighter to the chip...as stated make sure there close as possible to the chips pins.
C3--- should be 0.1uf to 10uf..you have  a 47k(the green one)..
C4--- should be 0.22uf to 12uf...you have a 0.22k(the orange one)..
C1 and C2 (small brown ones)should match the crystal you installed you can match it from here Read The Bottom on the crystal matching
all this little stuff counts for it to gen up and lock on freq.....remember this ain't some science fair project that can be tossed together..
I'd give you an F anyways for the rigging...lol

fix that all up and hope you didn't fry the nothing.....

Thank you very much for helping this uber-n00b

I have now a far more clear part list. When I was first buying the parts, I did not have a little idea what I was buying lol. I will get proper parts, a normal breadboard and I will use only darkstar's sceheme. Hopefully I will come up with a working board

Thank you again.

[ReverseAffect]

no problem and good luck....you know where to come if help is needed again...

[akula169]

Sweet - I now have a working flasher - it was a lot of reading, but major props to Darkstar for his schematics and explanation.

Here's my final product.  It helps that I have my own CNC PCB Router.



Page: http://www.flickr.com/photos/thecase/4551548007/in/set-72157623930299290/

[wolverine123]

Guys i'm really confused here :S , can anyone please help me? I have a usb Programmer which i used to program microcontrollers and found that my programmer supports 18F2550, I wanted to ask if i have a programmer then what HEX file do i have to program in it? Here people are programming one hex file then another and am just confused, please help.

[maximilian0017]

what HEX file do i have to program in it

Easy, just flash the bootloader, you can then remove the pic from your programmer and mount it on your homemade PCB, then use the bootloader to flash the actual nandflasher Hex file using USB and the pic bootloader software for windows.

That way you can always upgrade the software without removing the pic from the board.

[wolverine123]

what HEX file do i have to program in it

Easy, just flash the bootloader, you can then remove the pic from your programmer and mount it on your homemade PCB, then use the bootloader to flash the actual nandflasher Hex file using USB and the pic bootloader software for windows.

That way you can always upgrade the software without removing the pic from the board.

Thankyou so much max to clarify it a little for me but unfortunately am still confused , so i program the bootloader.hex file into the controller and place it into my pcb, then i install the drivers and then short the two pins to enter bootloader mode and then connect the usb to the pc and then use the bootloader software to load the nandflasher hex file in it?? Is that correct? Please sir i'm an ultra noob at this

[maximilian0017]

Yes,

You probably wont even need to short the jumper the first time because there is no other program in there to run.

I would suggest you use the p17 replacement bootloader from http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=13850.msg105687#msg105687

And please do not solder the pic directly so you can remove it easely if anything goes wrong.

[Dream]

Here are PIC softs and .hex. (no need to flash bootloader this is all in one hex)
Just flash mKonKing.hex.

Rename the file to mKonKing.rar and extract.

http://dream.pic.fi/kuvat/Xbox+360/HiTec+XBReboot+0.05/Dream+USB+mKo+Nand+Dump/mKonKing.avi

[evlspcmk]

just thought id share my little DIY one built on protoboard.

she works like a charm, 16mb dump in just over 5 minutes. ive done 20+ jtags with LPT and finally got around to building one and i wish i did it sooner.
ill share the parts i used since i know this works first time like a charm and some people ive read had issues with the caps and crystal specs.
im using a 20mhz crystal with 2 10pf caps off it, 100nf pictured in the top corner across the 5V & ground, three caps in parallel 2x 100nf & a 22nf going to pin 14. all resistors are surface mount and on the underside of the board same with the 2 10pf caps. It was made with parts i had in the parts box hence the caps in parallel and the mcguyver'esque usb made of spare protoboard



big thanks to darkstar and all the pages of reading of reading on this topic that helped me get it right first time.
is there a donate link or what not to darkstar? if knowing is half the battle i wouldnt mind donating half the cost of what a maximum usb reader would have cost me to him.