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Author Topic: USB SPI Flasher with PIC18F2455 - now with source and binaries  (Read 314796 times)
maximilian0017
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« Reply #860 on: March 02, 2010, 02:50:25 PM »

I'm struggling like hell to find this chip in the UK, however I have found PIC18F2420

Will this work?

Thanks Smiley

Just take a look at the Farnell website, they have everything you need
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AZImmortal
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« Reply #861 on: March 05, 2010, 05:09:25 AM »

I finally got my flasher working after messing around with it for more than a month (I was ready to give up on it, but I'm glad that I didn't).  Big thanks to everyone that helped me along the way.

Can someone provide a step-by-step guide to installing the 64-bit drivers as well as a definitive link to the drivers?  I've tried following several guides related to disabling the requirement for signed drivers, but no matter what, I can't get the drivers installed.  Thanks.
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TornSoul
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« Reply #862 on: March 05, 2010, 05:45:57 PM »

I built the ART2003 programmer successfully and flashed a PIC18F2455.  I built the USB dumper and got it working bootloader mode and was also able to successfully flash the device with the picflash code.  I hooked it up to an old xenon to test it out and everything was working perfectly...windows detected it, installed the driver...

Problem is, when using nandpro, it detects the device correctly and begins, but I get errors on every block and the error is different each try.  I've checked all the solder connections multiple times and I'm pretty sure this isn't the problem.

I followed this guide when soldering everything:



However, I used another shopping list when ordering my parts, prior to seeing this image.  I have a 12MHz crystal with 2 pins.  For C3 and C4 I have electrolytic capacitors.  C4 is 0.22uF and C3 is 0.1uF.  My C1 and C2 are 33pF.

So I'm correct in just thinking that this is because my C1 and C2 are too high?  I have a 0.47uF electrolytic capacitor that I could try in place of the 0.22uF.

Any suggestions would be really appreciated.

 
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sandungas
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« Reply #863 on: March 06, 2010, 09:37:19 AM »

Seems ok TornSoul, i guess that your problem comes from external wires

¿PC wires (from board---> to PC) not shielded...or too long?
¿360 wires (from board---> to 360) bad soldered...or poor quality?
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TornSoul
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« Reply #864 on: March 06, 2010, 04:14:29 PM »

Thanks for the response.  The wires going to the 360 are from the inside of a cat5 cable.  They're pretty short.  It's the same wire I use when dumping via LPT...

The USB cable I was using to the PC was pretty long, so I decided to give it a try again with a shorter one, but I got the same results.  While testing, I noticed something strange.  I can just hook up the dumper to the PC without the 360 connected and start the dump and it will behave in the exact same way as it does when it's connected...

So now it's maybe telling me it can't detect the 360, but the solder points have been perfect for my tries...should the dumper even function when not hooked up to the 360?

I get a flashconfig of 0x0012FE78


Seems ok TornSoul, i guess that your problem comes from external wires

¿PC wires (from board---> to PC) not shielded...or too long?
¿360 wires (from board---> to 360) bad soldered...or poor quality?
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maximilian0017
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« Reply #865 on: March 07, 2010, 08:48:52 AM »

I can just hook up the dumper to the PC without the 360 connected and start the dump and it will behave in the exact same way as it does when it's connected...

The flasher should not give you a flashconfig if it is not connected to the 360.

Check:
1. Voltage directly over the chip.
2. Frequency settings in the bootloader (Just flash it again).
3. Crystal and capacitors.
4. The pins connected from the pic to the 360.

Maby a picture would help
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TornSoul
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« Reply #866 on: March 07, 2010, 10:47:52 AM »


The flasher should not give you a flashconfig if it is not connected to the 360.

Check:
1. Voltage directly over the chip.
2. Frequency settings in the bootloader (Just flash it again).
3. Crystal and capacitors.
4. The pins connected from the pic to the 360.

Maby a picture would help

Thanks so much for getting back to me!  Now that I've at least confirmed I shouldn't be getting a flashconfig I can do further testing...

I'm beginning to believe this is because of improper wiring or that it's messy.  At the time I couldn't find a breadboard that was copper clad on one side, so I used short wires to connect everything on the underside.  I found a proper breadboard now and will rebuild it on Wednesday - when I should have additional proper parts.

Before rebuilding it, I wanted to verify I didn't wire the capacitors incorrectly.

I have one of C2's legs directly connected to pin 10.  One of the legs of the crystal is bent and connected to the leg as well. The other leg of C2 is connected directly to the negative end of C4. 

I have C1 connected directly to pins 8 and 9.  The leg attached to pin 9 also has one of the legs from the 12MHz crystal attached to it.  At pin 8, I have the wire connected that joins C1/pin8 to C2/C4.  This wire goes from pin 8 to where C4 and C2 meet.

C3 I have directly connected to pins 19 and 20. At pin 19 I have a wire coming from it that goes off to the ground on the USB connector.  At pin 20, I have a very small wire that bridges pin 20 and pin 13, which is connected to the 5V lead from the USB port...

Does any of that sound incorrect?

I really appreciate you taking the time to respond to me at all.  Thanks a lot. Smiley

I will continue with rebuilding it when I get the new parts and if/when I still have problems, I will post pictures and additional information.  Thanks again, you guys rock!

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gr3nad3
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« Reply #867 on: March 08, 2010, 05:10:55 PM »

I'm trying to make sure I'm doing this right. If someone could play connect the dots on this picture it would be very helpful to me and maybe a few other people. I have the bottom side picture if needed, also are those 2 points on the left for something. Thanks in advance, GR3NAD3

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maximilian0017
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« Reply #868 on: March 08, 2010, 05:47:10 PM »

Does any of that sound incorrect?

Sounds ok, but a picture would be better, make sure you make the leads from the crystal as short as possible!!.
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gmzombie
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« Reply #869 on: March 09, 2010, 10:30:21 PM »

ok this might be a dumb question but i have the usb setup from grim187 but im a little confused. is this preflashed or will i have to flash it. i was able to add the drivers on my pc and it comes up memory access but when i try to run nandpro with the line nandopro usb: -r16 nand.bin it says it cant find the flash controller. my wires are like 4-5 inches from the usb spi flasher. is there something im missing?
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maximilian0017
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« Reply #870 on: March 10, 2010, 05:20:38 AM »

ok this might be a dumb question but i have the usb setup from grim187 but im a little confused. is this preflashed or will i have to flash it. i was able to add the drivers on my pc and it comes up memory access but when i try to run nandpro with the line nandopro usb: -r16 nand.bin it says it cant find the flash controller. my wires are like 4-5 inches from the usb spi flasher. is there something im missing?

If it shows "Memory access" it looks like it is pre-flashed, take a good look at the wires between the flasher and the xbox, probably one is wrong.

Otherwise try the following:
1. Connect flasher to pc with an usb cable.
2. Then connect the 360 to the mains.

If that doesn't work contact the person you bought the flasher from if there are any problems.
Also make sure you have the newest version of Nandpro.
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ZakDK
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« Reply #871 on: March 13, 2010, 05:50:06 AM »

Thx for this awesome post..
I have NEVER made a PCB before.
But all the info here made i quite easy to make a programmer, and the flasher.
I hade a few problems on the way, specally with getting win7 to accept the usb flasher, and its drivers.
But now its working like a charm Smiley

Now for a fic pics of the monster Cheesy

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singh007
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« Reply #872 on: March 15, 2010, 09:05:11 PM »

I am looking to produce about 100 USB SPI r/w. I am new to PCB making and the files needed to produce PCBs. To my understand I need a gerber file to produce PCB's. Can some one PLEASE help me make a gerber file or some one that already has a gerber file, that he/she can share?  Thanks!

*looking to get them made in China for dirt cheap :-D
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Arakon
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« Reply #873 on: March 16, 2010, 12:34:33 AM »

So you're asking for help on how to make flashers that you'll sell for money based on the work and designs of others? I don't think so.
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I do NOT give support by email, PM, ICQ or whatever. Anyone annoying me that way will have his balls removed. With a rusty butterknife. Slowly. And I'll enjoy doing it.
maximilian0017
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« Reply #874 on: March 16, 2010, 10:03:07 AM »

I am looking to produce about 100 USB SPI r/w. I am new to PCB making and the files needed to produce PCBs
*looking to get them made in China for dirt cheap :-D

Absolutely agree with Arakon.

Maby you will change your mind if you read this:

Rumors:
1. 2 prominent distributors of Xbox mods are busy building cheap flashers, with their capabilities they will blow you out of the water in terms of price/quality/features and support.

Facts:
1. More than one person had troubles building and selling their flashers, so if you do not know what you are doing you will probably loose money on it.
2. I doubt the people developing this are going to like this, that way you will have to give support to "your" product, better start learning C for PIC
3. There's always someone who can make them cheaper than you.
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singh007
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« Reply #875 on: March 16, 2010, 11:59:35 AM »

Thanks for the input guys.

But I am not looking to sell the boards. I have about 100+ jtag'able systems, I was just looking to leaving the nand r/w inside each system so it would be easier for the user to change KV's and any other future updates without having to open the system or coming back to me.
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maximilian0017
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« Reply #876 on: March 16, 2010, 01:48:34 PM »

There are enough ways to update the system if XBR is installed with Xellious, no need for an internal flasher(have one in all of mine but ok, they are also used for other stuff)

You could just solder the correct connectors on the mainboard, that way if a customer %$^% it up you can easely reflash.
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singh007
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« Reply #877 on: March 16, 2010, 02:00:00 PM »

The main purpose is to change KV's, and I dont think that can be done without writing a updated NAND..  so leaving the USB jtag installing inside the console is the best way in my mind.   
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ultra64
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« Reply #878 on: March 16, 2010, 03:27:34 PM »

Would it really be such a bad thing to have some 'better' flashers available for those people who are unable or unwilling to build some themselves?
Maybe I'm missing the point here but I don't see where the extra harm to you guys (meaning: those who actually helped create the current layout) comes in when the modchip companies are copying the layouts too as we speak.

Don't get me wrong, singh007's (first) request sounded messed up to me too; but if he had designed the actual board layout himself I couldn't really see the problem. Sure, he is still using Darkstar's initial idea, cory's firmware and max's & sandungas' changes; but those have been openly and publicly posted, to be used (as is my understanding) as the base for our 'own' flashers.

Also something in me wonders if it'd be such a bad idea - considering more and more 'professionally built' flashers are being released and sold - for you guys (again meaning those who helped) to maybe take donations, at least from the 'professional' board makers, those who sell them.
I can't remember if it was in this very thread that someone called taking donations a stupid idea, I think it was, but maybe you should reconsider if mass production is really underway.
Else your ideas might get exploited (in a much bigger scale then until now) without you ever seeing a single cent for it.

1. 2 prominent distributors of Xbox mods are busy building cheap flashers, with their capabilities they will blow you out of the water in terms of price/quality/features and support.

price: do you really think so? I mean, the eBay flashers are <=30€, I can't imagine any professional modchip makers selling them for less. Also you could easily build and sell them for 20€ (or 10€ with no real profits).
quality: why? Of course the hand soldered breadboard flashers aren't the peak of quality, but etching equipment isn't that costly imho and with that you can easily make a 'hq' SMD version with those low ESR caps.
features: for example?
support: that might be a problem for a single individual but you can still just exchange broken flashers and repair them/look right here for info on what might be wrong.

Facts:
1. More than one person had troubles building and selling their flashers, so if you do not know what you are doing you will probably loose money on it.
2. I doubt the people developing this are going to like this, that way you will have to give support to "your" product, better start learning C for PIC
3. There's always someone who can make them cheaper than you.

1. No question, but 'knowing what you're doing' doesn't mean much but building functional flashers does it? The software is there, the layout and the parts are there and everything works.
2. You may very well be right on that one, but I can't help but think it had to be clear to everyone involved from the very beginning that if they build a functioning flasher and post that in public, at some point someone will (try to) commercialize it, simply because not everyone who wanted one was able to build one. Of course it's not fair to profit off other people's work, but I think you can't just ignore those people without the required soldering skills. Instead, why not profit off them like everyone else does? They don't mind, they just want their pre-built flashers.
The other thing is that I'm not sure how many more software releases there'll have to be for this particular device, everything seems to work great (if soldered together correctly) so the seller could - if he's an asshole - just continue using the old software.
3. No question.

I respect everyone involved a lot and am thankful for your work but, in short, don't see the problem when noobs get their (quality, hopefully) flashers too.

Here's the big surprise, I've been thinking about buying the rather cheap Reichelt etching equipment, not to make xbox flashers but for some other projects I'm planning.
Thing is of course that those other projects are all just in the 'idea' stages, plus I have a solid 1/2 week of EAGLE experience. So I was thinking about making some flashers too to get some of the ~600€ for the equipment back, but I'll can that idea and just buy that stuff when I have more money lying around as you guys are clearly against it.

But aren't there after all only 3 possible scenarios for how all this will play out?

1) don't take donations, don't allow flashers to be sold/discontinue development => current/old flashers with current/old software will be sold, unless you guys take the route through the lawyers; modchipmaker-flashers will be sold without profits for you guys; that's the current situation.
2) don't take donations, allow flashers to be sold => current flashers will be sold; modchipmaker-flashers will be sold without profits for you guys;
3) take donations/'license fees', allow flashers to be sold => current flashers will be sold and you guys make some money for your work and quality, features and support for pre-built flashers could be assured; modchipmaker-flashers will still be sold without profits for you guys;

I envy you if you are above the idea of money, but most are not.
And sorry for the TL;DR post.
« Last Edit: March 16, 2010, 03:31:06 PM by ultra64 » Logged
lucas1623
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« Reply #879 on: March 16, 2010, 07:22:33 PM »

once the xbox is flash with xbr can u remove the flasher from the xbox ? ill receve it in 2 days  just want to know before i got it ..
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