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xbox360sexual
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« Reply #820 on: February 19, 2010, 08:23:38 PM » |
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These chips are really really fragile it seems, I've killed two already somehow.. the first was recognised by windows, I installed drivers then it complained that USB device had manfunctioned... looks like a small bit of solder bridged somewhere and killed the USB bit, as the chip can still be recognised and programmed via willem...? odd... Second chip, well got as far as the first, plugged in to 360 and nothing... no longer recognised by USB, but still able to be flahed via willem Annoying 
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EvanVanVan
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« Reply #821 on: February 19, 2010, 08:52:04 PM » |
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Thats a difficult question with many answers.
It should be something between the pins 21-27 of the PIC and the xbox.
Make sure you have the numbering of the connectors correct(looks ok in the pictures), also make sure you do not make the wires to long and make sure you have a good ground connection(Otherwise just double the ground wire if its thin wire). Maby you could make a few pictures of the flasher itself with the wires connected?
i said it before (when you helped me a week or so ago) and ill say it again, you're a goddamn genius...had a couple sketchy connections on a few of the solder points between the PIC and the resistors on pins 21-27...fixed them up...and BAM reading like a pro..with the correct flash config and everything...thx man thank god for quadruple checking
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opium
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« Reply #822 on: February 19, 2010, 09:59:30 PM » |
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Is it ok to use two 18pF capacitors with my 12mHz 18pF crystal? Or do I need to use two 22pF capacitors with it?
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maximilian0017
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« Reply #823 on: February 20, 2010, 06:04:53 AM » |
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Is it ok to use two 18pF capacitors with my 12mHz 18pF crystal? Or do I need to use two 22pF capacitors with it?
Just use the formula posted a few pages back. If you already bought them just try them out, if you have read errors or unknown usb device troubles you know where to look. my homemade usb cable (lol) is 5in long (13 cm)
The limit for an usb cable for a low speed device is 3 meters and for a full speed device it is 5 meters http://www.usb.org/about/faq/ans5/And the other wires should be as short as possible. These chips are really really fragile it seems, I've killed two already somehow
Haven't had one die on me, not even with the veroboards. Take special care of the Vusb pin(14), other people have reported that this is somewhat of a weak point, measure this for the correct 3,3v. Did you solder the PIC directly to the board or did you use a socket?
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« Last Edit: February 20, 2010, 06:32:41 AM by maximilian0017 »
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xbox360sexual
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« Reply #824 on: February 20, 2010, 09:28:54 AM » |
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I used a socket. Pin14 is wired direct to 5v USB so how could I bring it down to 3.3v?
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ReverseAffect
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« Reply #825 on: February 20, 2010, 09:40:18 AM » |
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I used a socket. Pin14 is wired direct to 5v USB so how could I bring it down to 3.3v?
pin 14 should be connected to C4(cap-ground)
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sick like a mofo..not reballing for a while...
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maximilian0017
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« Reply #826 on: February 20, 2010, 10:06:49 AM » |
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I used a socket. Pin14 is wired direct to 5v USB so how could I bring it down to 3.3v?
ReverseAffect is right, please change this and measure the voltage over the pin when it is connected to the usb port, try both presumed defective devices.
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xbox360sexual
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« Reply #827 on: February 20, 2010, 01:56:29 PM » |
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Sorry, it is connected to ground via a cap, I was mistaken  However, there is no voltage at all?
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maximilian0017
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« Reply #828 on: February 20, 2010, 04:48:55 PM » |
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Sorry, it is connected to ground via a cap, I was mistaken  However, there is no voltage at all? So you have power on the VCC and GND pins but no power on the VUSB? If yes, first remove the VUSBcapacitor and measure again, if it has 3,3volts you should take a look at the capacitor. If you do not have 3,3 volts try to connect a 3,3 volt regulator to the pin and see what happens(With the capacitor connected also). If that works i would check the current drawn by your device, it should be between 30-40mA without connection to the 360. Let us know...
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xbox360sexual
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« Reply #829 on: February 20, 2010, 08:24:03 PM » |
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Interesting. So I removed the capacitor and still nothing. Then I took two diodes, put them in series, linked from 5v to pin 14 (giving me 3.5v) and now the device is recognised by windows as Memory Access  I'll try the other chip soon, but how odd that the internal 3,3v reg seems to have died? I've tried flashing the 360 but flash isnt recognised.. I'll recheck wiring etc soon.
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opium
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« Reply #830 on: February 21, 2010, 03:13:38 AM » |
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The cheapest 22pf capacitors that I can find are 200v. Will this work?
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Arakon
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« Reply #831 on: February 21, 2010, 05:46:57 AM » |
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since the maximum voltage flowing in the circuit is 5v, it will work fine. they're just larger than lower voltage ones.
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I do NOT give support by email, PM, ICQ or whatever. Anyone annoying me that way will have his balls removed. With a rusty butterknife. Slowly. And I'll enjoy doing it.
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maximilian0017
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« Reply #832 on: February 21, 2010, 09:19:36 AM » |
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I'll try the other chip soon, but how odd that the internal 3,3v reg seems to have died?
Some other people had the same problem, maby if we had some pictures.... Did you measure the current?, and you checked the 3,6v with a voltmeter?
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xbox360sexual
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« Reply #833 on: February 21, 2010, 09:21:51 AM » |
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Meh, managed to flash my 360 with xell but e79, no matter how many fresh diodes and fresh connections for the JTAG I tried. I give up! Anyone wanna buy a usb flasher, UK? LOL! Yeah I measured 3.5v with a DMM. I'll measure the current shortly 
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« Last Edit: February 21, 2010, 09:23:39 AM by xbox360sexual »
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maximilian0017
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« Reply #834 on: February 21, 2010, 12:13:35 PM » |
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Meh, managed to flash my 360 with xell but e79, no matter how many fresh diodes and fresh connections for the JTAG I tried. I give up! Anyone wanna buy a usb flasher, UK? LOL! I'll measure the current shortly  You are almost there, just hang on  I would like to know the current to see if the internal regulator is shorting out, maby we could do something about that. Make sure the diodes are the right way around and that you remap bad blocks. Can you start Xell with a controller connected to the back usb port and pressing the Xbox guide button?, if yes your JTAG setup is correct. What kind of diode did you use?, pics?
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xbox360sexual
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« Reply #835 on: February 21, 2010, 03:25:14 PM » |
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Diodes are the right way round, and ive remapped bad blocks to XBR however I'm flashing xell.bin on its own at the moment, so bad blocks wouldnt matter?..
Hmmm, I thought xell was supposed to just boot straight up? If I turn on now, the console boots to one red light and E79... I've tried boxxDR's method and still, E79.. I'm so close to giving up :/
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ReverseAffect
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« Reply #836 on: February 21, 2010, 04:33:08 PM » |
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Diodes are the right way round, and ive remapped bad blocks to XBR however I'm flashing xell.bin on its own at the moment, so bad blocks wouldnt matter?..
Hmmm, I thought xell was supposed to just boot straight up? If I turn on now, the console boots to one red light and E79... I've tried boxxDR's method and still, E79.. I'm so close to giving up :/
as long as any bad blocks in the first 40 for are ok and please branch off with a subject on tech support...this is for the flasher building only....
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sick like a mofo..not reballing for a while...
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AZImmortal
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« Reply #837 on: February 21, 2010, 09:32:59 PM » |
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Can someone do me a huge favor and burn and back up bootloaders configured for 4/8/12/16/20mhz and upload them somewhere for me? I can't get my Tait classic programmer working with WinPic800 and I don't know how else to set the frequency for the oscillator when programming the bootloader. Many thanks to anyone who can help.
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« Last Edit: February 21, 2010, 09:37:00 PM by AZImmortal »
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arcane
Newbie

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« Reply #838 on: February 22, 2010, 01:24:23 AM » |
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So close, yet so far! I've build an ART2003 and was able to successfully flash the PIC18F2455, plugged it into the USB flasher, and could get Windows to recognize it as a "Custom USB Device" after installing the drivers. However, using PDFSUSB to flash picflash.hex apparently results in success, but after removing the jumper, Windows does not recognize it as a "Memory Access" device, but rather the same "Custom USB Device." I'm think I'm running into the same problem as mentioned earlier by another user: When erasing - WARNING - Failed to Verify. WARNING - Actual Value :00 WARNING - Expected Value at Address 0x005800 : 0xFF MESSAGE - Verifying Memory starting from 0x800 to 0x7FFF... MESSAGE - Erasing Flash starting from 0x800 to 0x7FFF...
When programming - MESSAGE - Programming FLASH Completed MESSAGE - Erasing and Programming FLASH...
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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hynix
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« Reply #839 on: February 22, 2010, 10:41:13 AM » |
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How many 10k resistors have you used on your USB Flasher?
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