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Author Topic: USB SPI Flasher with PIC18F2455 - now with source and binaries  (Read 314704 times)
simon66
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« Reply #740 on: February 05, 2010, 03:54:33 PM »

Sup guys. Im not that much of a writer but more of a reader. Ijust wanted to know how can I convert a board image from Eagle to the black in white printable from? Like this
..
..
All this in eagle. I want to convert My board. Thank you


There are a few ways to achieve that.
Personally i find the following method the easiest, use the CAM processor. Set it up as follow:



-Use PS or PS_Inverted as device to generate a postscript file (.ps).
-Make sure only layers Bottom, Pads, Vias and Dimension are selected.
-The page details get filled in auto-magically, i never changed them.
-And of course select a location for the file to be saved.
Press Process Job, and the file will be generated.

Will get you:



Personally have all sorts of adobe apps installed, and Adobe distiller will auto convert to pdf if i open a postscript file.(that is if you like .pdf more).

Some tweaks to eagle before you export to a layout, could be;
-Options-->User-Interface-->Misc section; Always vector font ON, Persistent in this drawing ON
-Options-->Set-->Misc tab; Display mode section; No Drills ON (instead of Real)

p.s. Just finished my new version (on the background Wink). Going to try to produce it this weekend, but i'm not sure if the small openings i have chosen this time will be doable, but i like the challenge.


Thnx but there is no drill hole. How do I add that?
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Jaac
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« Reply #741 on: February 05, 2010, 04:32:19 PM »

If you click off Fill Pads in the style options for the CAM Processor, and -Options-->Set-->Misc tab; Display mode section; Real ON
,it will show drill holes. My bad, that i left it on in the example.
« Last Edit: February 05, 2010, 05:19:14 PM by Jaac » Logged
ReverseAffect
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« Reply #742 on: February 06, 2010, 03:33:06 AM »

and why couldn't you guys post this in a pm or in a new subject for yours?
we split this topic a while ago because of $#!t like this.....
this isn't about how to load a circuit board program..it's about building the usb flasher.....
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dogged
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« Reply #743 on: February 06, 2010, 06:10:57 AM »

Where i can get last firmware for PIC microcontroller, which works with nandpro 2.0b?
Thanks.
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maximilian0017
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« Reply #744 on: February 06, 2010, 09:10:04 AM »

Latest firmware:
http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=13850.msg89624#msg89624
Make sure you use this bootloader or the jumper wont work correctly.
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ReverseAffect
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« Reply #745 on: February 06, 2010, 09:15:20 AM »

Latest firmware:
http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=13850.msg89624#msg89624
Make sure you use this bootloader or the jumper wont work correctly.

thanks maximilian0017, I couldn't find that @#$#@$#@$% post to many, never mind...Tongue
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Copper-Bit
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« Reply #746 on: February 06, 2010, 01:56:41 PM »

big thanks  - DAK

it was the ground.
I connected all ground in one line, now i added 2 shot lines from Pin 19 and 20 direkt to the Usb-Ground and it's working great. Never thought this is so important.
thx many times

Now i'm usesing the Crystal resonator,but without the two 22/27p capitors and it's running fine.Should i add them anyways?
« Last Edit: February 06, 2010, 02:28:24 PM by Copper-Bit » Logged
maximilian0017
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« Reply #747 on: February 06, 2010, 05:37:13 PM »

Now i'm usesing the Crystal resonator,but without the two 22/27p capitors and it's running fine.Should i add them anyways?

Resonator = no capacitors
Crystal = Always add capacitors

You could have starting problems and oscillation deviation if you do not add them.
(translates to not finding device or having problems reading/writing)
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blackillusion
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« Reply #748 on: February 06, 2010, 06:06:11 PM »

Many thanks i have built the flasher and have installed the drivers flashed the second part and now have memory access device with the jumper removed.
On to the connection to xbox
we dont need anymore components between the 16 pin header and the xbox do we, just want to make sure. but i will have to make the following connections to be able to get xbr or something on correct?

http://i.imgur.com/Fdjmi.png
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maximilian0017
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« Reply #749 on: February 06, 2010, 08:24:24 PM »

Many thanks i have built the flasher and have installed the drivers flashed the second part and now have memory access device with the jumper removed.
On to the connection to xbox
we dont need anymore components between the 16 pin header and the xbox do we, just want to make sure. but i will have to make the following connections to be able to get xbr or something on correct?

The latest official version from the main tech thread is by Sandungas, his version has all the parts/info you need.


Flash it with the latest firmware (thanks Darkstar and Cory1492)
http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=13850.msg89624#msg89624

« Last Edit: February 06, 2010, 08:33:10 PM by maximilian0017 » Logged
ReverseAffect
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« Reply #750 on: February 06, 2010, 09:08:10 PM »

Many thanks i have built the flasher and have installed the drivers flashed the second part and now have memory access device with the jumper removed.
On to the connection to xbox
we dont need anymore components between the 16 pin header and the xbox do we, just want to make sure. but i will have to make the following connections to be able to get xbr or something on correct?

http://i.imgur.com/Fdjmi.png
and yes you are correct on doing whats in that image you posted in the link. its the jtag trick to make xbr work Smiley
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AZImmortal
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« Reply #751 on: February 07, 2010, 04:11:19 AM »

Just to update on my situation, I built the Tait classic programmer and I was able to successfully flash the PIC, fully assemble the USB flasher, flash that as well, and get it correctly installed in my Windows XP computer. Smiley  Big thanks to everyone that helped me along the way, especially ReverseAffect, maximilian0017, and dak.

However, it looks like my troubles aren't over.

1) I'm getting the dreaded "could not detect a flash controller" with nandpro.  This is with a big block Jasper (I forgot if it's 256 or 512; I'm doing it for a friend).  Does anyone have a solution to this?  I've read through the thread and it seems like for those that have this problem as well, not many have reported solutions.  I've checked the wiring to the motherboard with a multimeter and everything seems to be ok.  I used PICFLASH.hex from PICFLASH_v3b_plus2 and I'm using nandpro 2.0b.

2) How exactly do I install the 64-bit drivers?  I'd like to get it working on my Windows 7 x64 computer, but I can't figure out the driver install.

Thanks everyone.
« Last Edit: February 07, 2010, 04:37:55 AM by AZImmortal » Logged
dogged
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« Reply #752 on: February 07, 2010, 04:15:33 AM »

Does anyone have a short instruction how to update pic-controller firmware?
« Last Edit: February 07, 2010, 04:36:18 AM by dogged » Logged
Arakon
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« Reply #753 on: February 07, 2010, 05:14:50 AM »

Connect to programmer, rewrite PIC with i.e. winpic800.
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maximilian0017
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« Reply #754 on: February 07, 2010, 08:40:55 AM »

1) I'm getting the dreaded "could not detect a flash controller" with nandpro.  This is with a big block Jasper (I forgot if it's 256 or 512; I'm doing it for a friend).  Does anyone have a solution to this?  I've read through the thread and it seems like for those that have this problem as well, not many have reported solutions.  I've checked the wiring to the motherboard with a multimeter and everything seems to be ok.  I used PICFLASH.hex from PICFLASH_v3b_plus2 and I'm using nandpro 2.0b.

2) How exactly do I install the 64-bit drivers?  I'd like to get it working on my Windows 7 x64 computer, but I can't figure out the driver install.

Thanks everyone.
1. Looks like a short/no connection/bad or wrong resistor in the area from the chip to the motherboard, also make sure you have the xbox connected to the powersupply.

2. After flashing the actual program it will be detected and ask for a driver, for 32 bit windows you can use the drivers in the Nandpro2.0b folder, for 64 bit versions use the one fom Cory1492's post.
If you accedentally used the wrong one go to device manager and reinstall the driver with the correct one.
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simon66
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« Reply #755 on: February 07, 2010, 02:15:20 PM »

Many thanks i have built the flasher and have installed the drivers flashed the second part and now have memory access device with the jumper removed.
On to the connection to xbox
we dont need anymore components between the 16 pin header and the xbox do we, just want to make sure. but i will have to make the following connections to be able to get xbr or something on correct?

The latest official version from the main tech thread is by Sandungas, his version has all the parts/info you need.


Flash it with the latest firmware (thanks Darkstar and Cory1492)
http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=13850.msg89624#msg89624





Thank you very much. I changed my whole board. I sent you the files to check it out. Msg me if they work out to be good. Thanks

BTW. A few post behind by Sandungas there are possitive and negative side on the ceramic capacitor and your doesnt have. Does it matter?
« Last Edit: February 07, 2010, 02:55:03 PM by simon66 » Logged
Arakon
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« Reply #756 on: February 07, 2010, 05:03:38 PM »

ceramic caps have no polarized sides, so no.
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simon66
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« Reply #757 on: February 07, 2010, 05:37:04 PM »

ceramic caps have no polarized sides, so no.


Thank you. Now im more releaved. I bought a 20Mhz Oscillator and a 15pF ceramic capacitor. Now Im just waiting for everything to come to my mail.
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romanster
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« Reply #758 on: February 08, 2010, 06:20:39 AM »

Well I'm stuck.

Got my art3000 programmer built up and managed to flash the bootloader (sept 22 picxboot) just fine to my 18F2455, everything verified ok in Winpic800. Corrected the oscillator setting in bootloader to "divide by 2 (8mhz source)" or whatever the option is, since I'm using a 8mhz crystal and 22pf caps.

But it's not getting recognized at all in XP x32 when I plug the flasher into usb. I followed these schematics, but used a 8mhz/22pf crystal/cap combo as per suggested in sandunga's v3 diagram.



Where should I even begin to troubleshoot this thing? Nothing obvious seems to be wrong with the board, I have 5V from usb 1 going to pins 13 and 20 and to the 10k resistor. Grounds seem ok. Pin 14 cap is 0,47uF, pin 20 is 0,1uF. I used the clipped leads from the resistors to connect everything, so I don't think it's a wire size issue.

Is it just easier to rebuild the board? I'll try to get a 12mhz crystal this time, and use solder tracks like sandunga's flasher and copy it pin by pin.
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maximilian0017
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« Reply #759 on: February 08, 2010, 09:44:26 AM »

Where should I even begin to troubleshoot this thing? Nothing obvious seems to be wrong with the board, I have 5V from usb 1 going to pins 13 and 20 and to the 10k resistor. Grounds seem ok. Pin 14 cap is 0,47uF, pin 20 is 0,1uF. I used the clipped leads from the resistors to connect everything, so I don't think it's a wire size issue.

For detection in windows you need the following:
1. Pic (make sure you have it the right way around!!)
2. Crystal with capacitors
3. Vusb capacitor (pin 14)
4. Capacitor (pin 19-20)
5. USB connector

I would take a hard look at the crystal settings in the bootloader, that has to be correct.

Isn't anything detected?, check for power on pin 19-20 (GND-VCC) first and then disconnect usb at the pc and measure the 2 usb data connections (D+/D-) for open connection
« Last Edit: February 08, 2010, 09:50:08 AM by maximilian0017 » Logged
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