USB SPI Flasher with PIC18F2455 - now with source and binaries

[maximilian0017]

Ok thx, someone said in another board, that the first one is also ok, but I think i'll buy the other one tomorrow.

Reverse Affect is right, you can build the programmer any way you want but subtle differences can make it work badly or not at all.
First look if you bought a 5v(ok) or a 3,3v(need a resistor) crystal oscilator

Wild untested guess
Tie output to pin 10
Vcc to Vcc
Gnd to Gnd
NC and pin 9 to nothing

That would work on the other chips i know

[hynix]

Thank you for help, here's mine:

[nicmon]

Is it possible to use Atmel chips instead?

[Arakon]

sure, you just have to write the usb flasher code for one. if you mean with this code: no. pic and atmel are entirely different devices.

[maximilian0017]

Is it possible to use Atmel chips instead?

And in the beginning of the thread it has been said that the speed will probably be lower.

[migrab]

@hynix

Is there any chance to buy it of you?

[hynix]

If you live in Germany or want to pay the shipping costs to another country, sure .

[nicmon]

Thank you, I've check Andy's sources under: http://github.com/G33KatWork/FreeNAND who has tried to build one, I don't know if your Project was successful or not, Andy, as the Atmel costs about 1/5 of PIC.
also I couldn't understand why you used 4 Jumpers and 1 RS232.

[Andy1988]

Yes, I tried it once, but all I got was a bit of crap from the SPI bus.
I suspect that my cables from the AVR to the XBox were just too long. I haven't tried it again since then. I don't really know why.
Another thing would be the USB speed. Most of the (cheap) AVRs don't have a hardware USB stack. The software stack does only USB 1.1. It will be definitely slower than the PIC controller.

I used jumpers to easily mount the PCB on the XBox Board. Just stick it on a pin-header and you're good to go. The reason I used wires for that is that I didn't have those 2mm pinheaders I needed
The RS232-Interface was intended for debugging only. It's good to have one while coding the firmware, believe me

[EvanVanVan]

when i read my pic i have WRTB=ON and all code "0xFFFF"

erasing all didn't help, also when i change WRTB=OFF winpic says ...
" writing addesss 0x30000c
written : 0xe00f read: 0xa00f " -> still protection

lvp is ON in settings

between vdd and vss is 2.75V, so i need to give at vdd 5V and try to erase? -> yes, it works again

program via pdfsusb.exe success

between vdd and vss is 2.75V, so i need to give at vdd 5V and try to erase? -> yes, it works again

I've got the same problem with the "writing addesss 0x30000c, written : 0xe00f read: 0xa00f" error , and ive got 2.93V between vdd and vss, can someone explain how i "give it 5V at vdd"?


edit: thought i add this in case it wasnt obvious, this is a problem in WINPIC and im trying to reflash my pic with the art2003 programmer, cause i cant get it in in bootloader mode with the usb flasher


edit 2: after searching, im guessing the 5v fix comes from sandungas' modified art2003 schematic? im gonna try that , but any confirmation would be great. thx

[Arakon]

yeah. your parallel port probably can't supply enough power.

[dogged]

Hello guys.
How i can update my pic-software?
If i connect 17 pinout and ground - nothing happened. Does anyone have instructions about it?

[maximilian0017]

Hello guys.
How i can update my pic-software?
If i connect 17 pinout and ground - nothing happened. Does anyone have instructions about it?

If you do not get the bootloader in devicemanager if you connect pin 17 to ground and start the Pic you probably have a very old bootloader in there.

You could try the phyton script to get it into bootloader mode and then flash it but if that doens work you need to reprogram it with a programmer, look for art 2003 in this thread for the rest of the info.
Suggested schema is this one:


Leave out the diodes in the red box and power it with the usb port.

[dogged]

Thanks you. I will try this method.
But where i can get python script?

[maximilian0017]

But where i can get python script?

Where did you get the bootloader from?, a version before page 5 of this topic?, because you would need to flash it again with a programmer like the modified ART 2003 above.

Otherwise:
http://free60.git.sourceforge.net/git/gitweb.cgi?p=free60/tools;a=tree;f=picflash/host;h=b15ca92a589dd38cd7fc4871f69de81006fb57f3;hb=HEAD

You also need to install Phyton and the usb support for python.

Its possible that you will get errors running the script, just post it here and i will try to help.

[EvanVanVan]

Ye that modified ART2003 Programmer worked prefectly the other night for me, now im stuck tho...


Using the USB SPI flasher, i try and do the nandpro command "nandpro usb: -r2 c1.bin" and i get the error "could not detect a flash controller!"
(if anyone has any suggestions on fixing it, id really appreciate it, first id like to check my voltages, read below)

;
Ive redone my soldering and it hasnt helped, the wires/points look fine here are some pics:

http://img214.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=p2190430.jpg

id like to check my volatages cause i found the info that its supposed to be in the xbox 360 pinout pdf...but im not sure where to check,
can someone tell me i put one prong of the multimeter on the point i soldered (J1D2.2 for instance) but where do i put the second prong to check that the voltage is the 3.3v its supposed to be..

[maximilian0017]

Using the USB SPI flasher, i try and do the nandpro command "nandpro usb: -r2 c1.bin" and i get the error "could not detect a flash controller!"

Thats a difficult question with many answers.

It should be something between the pins 21-27 of the PIC and the xbox.

Make sure you have the numbering of the connectors correct(looks ok in the pictures), also make sure you do not make the wires to long and make sure you have a good ground connection(Otherwise just double the ground wire if its thin wire).
Maby you could make a few pictures of the flasher itself with the wires connected?

[EvanVanVan]

arite here are some pics:

http://img14.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=p2190447.jpg

lol few things to keep in mind:

its not hooked up right now but the length should be fine, my homemade usb cable (lol) is 5in long (13 cm) and the ethernet cable inside the xbox is only =< less then that for a total of 10in (26cm) long

dont give me to much crap for the usb cable, i cut one down from 3ft, and then used made hotglue to insulate the cables (because i couldnt find any electrical tape) and then wrapped it in duct tape? (not the nicest little thing but it works according to the multimeter)

none of the components on the top of the board (the crystal/capitors and the resistors/plastic ethernet port specifically are touching) it may look like that in the picture, but they aren't

please again not to much crap for the homemade pcb, the laser transfer didnt work out that great so i coated the traces in paint making them not look as sharp as they should, but ive check the whole thing with the multimeter, and nothings touching that shoudnt be and everything that should be connected is.

i followed threesixtyusers, diagram for the board (sandungas' v3 basically) but used an ethernet port instead of his connector for easy connect/disconnect to the 360, i was planning on using the simple cat5 mod at some point, but until i get it working, its just straight into the board for now...

again, all those soldered ethernet pins, may look like they are touching (they are very close) but according to the multimeter im pretty sure they are no shorting out)

lastly, i know my soldering was ugly on this board, but this isnt nearly as important (i can always make another one) as my 360, and my 360's soldering was much cleaner..

but any suggestions for fixes/changes you make ill do them...thanks

[hynix]

Try this:

1. Take the powerplug out of the Xbox
2. type the command into the cmd window, but don't press enter!
3. Put the plug into the xbox again and quickly press the enter button, that works for me every time.

[EvanVanVan]

thx i gave it shot, no go...guess im gonna quadrupole check pins 21-27 and their connections to the board, just to make sure...