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Author Topic: USB SPI Flasher with PIC18F2455 - now with source and binaries  (Read 308934 times)
simon66
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« Reply #760 on: February 08, 2010, 02:27:54 PM »



I fixed the image. Made it so there is no need of extra jumpers. I just hate jumpers, so I tough you guys might use with out jumpers too.
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maximilian0017
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« Reply #761 on: February 08, 2010, 02:41:18 PM »

I fixed the image. Made it so there is no need of extra jumpers. I just hate jumpers, so I tough you guys might use with out jumpers too.

Wont really work with Veroboard i'm afraid...
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simon66
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« Reply #762 on: February 08, 2010, 02:58:45 PM »

How come? It seems alright.
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romanster
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« Reply #763 on: February 08, 2010, 05:27:18 PM »


For detection in windows you need the following:
1. Pic (make sure you have it the right way around!!)
2. Crystal with capacitors
3. Vusb capacitor (pin 14)
4. Capacitor (pin 19-20)
5. USB connector

I would take a hard look at the crystal settings in the bootloader, that has to be correct.

Isn't anything detected?, check for power on pin 19-20 (GND-VCC) first and then disconnect usb at the pc and measure the 2 usb data connections (D+/D-) for open connection

Thanks for the help maximillian.

1. Yep, made sure of that with the flasher  Wink  At first my art3000 programmer wouldn't work... take a guess why  Roll Eyes
2. 8mhz/22pF combo
3. 0.47uF
4. 0.1uF
5. USB-B female socket

I chose the "Divided by 2 (8MHz input)" in the oscillator selection in winpic800 when I flashed the bootloader. It detected thmy pic as an 18F2455 and everything verified correctly after reading/programming, so I know the pic isn't dead.

Nothing happens when I plug in the flasher via usb though. Nothing at all, it's just like plugging in a usb cable with nothing else attached, can't figure out what could be the issue. I checked for power on all the necessary connections, and it's all ok, I'm getting ~5V at all the points I tested. Grounds are all confirmed working too. All the connections check out ok.

The only other thing I could see being an issue is my crytal/cap combo, I'll have to try the normal 12mhz/22pf recommended combo and see what happens. Might chuck on a 12mhz resonator too. If all else fails, I'll have to build another board.
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ReverseAffect
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« Reply #764 on: February 08, 2010, 10:09:23 PM »

romanster,
 
I don't know why i would want to help but even though i am bashing you(because your ignorant by even posting your $#!t and asking for help on a adulteration ) ...I guess i can help somewhat....not that i give a $#!t..because its all here plus more(posts)...

did you even have the boot pins jumped when the usb plugged in it into the pc?
also is your usb (female) connected to  ground? not pin 4 either...


not that you care...but it's been said, you stray ...don't expect help.....(your the rocket scientist that loves to alter without math,not us) .
course if you followed anything you would know you can't just mix any crystal with any cap....(that you can search the net and find out why) seeing though you didn't find the answer why(by not reading posts) and changed it....

WTF you think this $#!t is built with magic???
« Last Edit: February 08, 2010, 11:07:15 PM by ReverseAffect » Logged

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ReverseAffect
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« Reply #765 on: February 08, 2010, 10:19:07 PM »

Latest firmware:
http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=13850.msg89624#msg89624
Make sure you use this bootloader or the jumper wont work correctly.
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threesixtyuser
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« Reply #766 on: February 09, 2010, 02:48:35 AM »

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/3640/schemaeigen.jpg

I fixed the image. Made it so there is no need of extra jumpers. I just hate jumpers, so I tough you guys might use with out jumpers too.
This won't work on prototyping board (veroboard) because the 5V line from point 1 of the USB chassis won't run over the soldering pads, so you would still have to use wire for it (read: bridging anyway)

the design I made was particullarly for veroboard and with certain components.
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romanster
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« Reply #767 on: February 09, 2010, 03:43:28 AM »

romanster,
 
I don't know why i would want to help but even though i am bashing you(because your ignorant by even posting your $#!t and asking for help on a adulteration ) ...I guess i can help somewhat....not that i give a $#!t..because its all here plus more(posts)...

did you even have the boot pins jumped when the usb plugged in it into the pc?
also is your usb (female) connected to  ground? not pin 4 either...


not that you care...but it's been said, you stray ...don't expect help.....(your the rocket scientist that loves to alter without math,not us) .
course if you followed anything you would know you can't just mix any crystal with any cap....(that you can search the net and find out why) seeing though you didn't find the answer why(by not reading posts) and changed it....

WTF you think this $#!t is built with magic???

Really? 39 pages of people asking for help and I'm the one you jump on? I provided as many details as I could about my setup in order to make it clear what I had done. I didn't just make a post saying "oi m8s mybord dun worrk lolz halp me".  Adulterated rocket scientist? Holy cats.

Where did I stray in the design? The schematics I used are the same as sandungas' v3, but incorporate the usb socket and pin headers I had. It also says in Sandungas' drawing that the datasheet listed the 8mhz/22pf crystal/cap combination as usable. My electronics store didn't have 12mhz crystals, so I had to buy the 8mhz one instead, along with the recommended capacitors. I didn't just willy nilly reach into the parts containers.

Yes the jumper was connected. Yes the usb socket is grounded. Yes I used those files.  I checked voltages at the pins like maximillian suggested I do. All I can think of being a problem are my crystal/cap values which were taken from the datasheet. So I'll have to try again with different ones and see if it works. What's wrong with that?

This is a thread for people to try to make one of these devices themselves. Not everyone has years and years of experience with this type of stuff. I don't even know how to troubleshoot this, I re-read all 39 pages again yesterday before I made my original post and couldn't come up with a solution on my own. That's why I was prepared to just build a new one from scratch.
« Last Edit: February 09, 2010, 03:48:24 AM by romanster » Logged
ReverseAffect
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« Reply #768 on: February 09, 2010, 04:58:44 AM »

Adulterated rocket scientist? ...lol yes
taking something so pure and applying it to a past way and mix and matching current ways...just because what? oh they didn't have that part .....

I didn't just willy nilly reach into the parts containers
mint....

just built it to the resent specs...lol

and no  i didn't go off on you (I'm the one you jump on?) but as stated, i bashed you....
as you know we had to split this section...peeps just beating around the bush..because of not knowing what to post
and your right, you did post way more info then most, asking for help....
if you knew you built this right why not just post a pic of the way and the pic program so we can see if everything is ok and quit the
beating on posts in this section.....







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maximilian0017
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« Reply #769 on: February 09, 2010, 09:29:41 AM »

did you even have the boot pins jumped when the usb plugged in it into the pc?
also is your usb (female) connected to  ground? not pin 4 either...

Actually if you program a pic with only the bootloader it doesn't matter if the jumper is placed, it will always detect the bootloader.

The jumper is only needed for updating..

ATM i would not put the jumper on if you are not updating....fix is coming soon
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dak
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« Reply #770 on: February 09, 2010, 09:39:50 AM »

@ romanster
I was playing with the mhz + divider too. With wrong values the flasher got recognized as a USB device, but not as the right one and it didnt work.
So I suggest you either look at your wires again, maybe there is something wrong OR as you said, it is the crystal.

.
« Last Edit: February 09, 2010, 09:43:36 AM by dak » Logged
fail
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« Reply #771 on: February 09, 2010, 05:49:05 PM »

Can someone confirm me that PIC18F2550/4455/4550 are all straight flashable with v3b plus2 hex ?
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simon66
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« Reply #772 on: February 09, 2010, 11:21:43 PM »

Few Finaly got my stuff to work. Thanks all for the help.
« Last Edit: February 10, 2010, 01:10:19 AM by simon66 » Logged
AZImmortal
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« Reply #773 on: February 10, 2010, 01:37:45 AM »

Does anyone know how to fix the following problem with WinPic800?  When I try to start it up, I get the following error msg: "Failed to install -> wp800io.sys."  Subsequently, I'm unable to get any hardware detected.  I've already tried to reinstall several times and it does install the drivers during the installation process, but afterwards, I still get the error msg.

Edit: I should add that WinPic800 used to work ok, but now I get that error every time I start it up.
« Last Edit: February 10, 2010, 01:45:09 AM by AZImmortal » Logged
blackillusion
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« Reply #774 on: February 10, 2010, 04:18:46 AM »

Does anyone know how to fix the following problem with WinPic800?  When I try to start it up, I get the following error msg: "Failed to install -> wp800io.sys."  Subsequently, I'm unable to get any hardware detected.  I've already tried to reinstall several times and it does install the drivers during the installation process, but afterwards, I still get the error msg.

Edit: I should add that WinPic800 used to work ok, but now I get that error every time I start it up.

I had to reinstall mine when i got this message.....have you tried that?

Anyway on another note thanks for the reply earlier in the thread ReverseAffect, i ran into some trouble trying to reprogram the pic. I checked my wiring and everything was 100%, so i set about with my multimeter, the long track that connects the diodes round to pins 20,19,8 was carrying a pitiful 0.50v so i figured this was my problem. Got the usb flasher and wired from the usb ports 5v to the same track and the ground to the lpt shell like the rest of the grounds. Then proceeded to load winpic i turned the settings off in hardware 'vdd and mclr' and the pic was detected fine flashed fine, verified fine. Put the pic on the flasher and updated the pdfs part.Seems a bit strange that it flashed 1st time and verified 1st fine but after it was programmed it wouldnt do it properly because it wasn't getting the required 5v
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maximilian0017
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« Reply #775 on: February 10, 2010, 05:31:19 AM »

Seems a bit strange that it flashed 1st time and verified 1st fine but after it was programmed it wouldnt do it properly because it wasn't getting the required 5v

Winpic sometimes leaves the lpt port in a strange state, then the diodes do not get power and the pic also doesn't get any.

Never really found out why yhis happens in all cases.

Known reasons:
1. Printer polling (autodetect from windows), you can disable this in the registry and you need to install a default text only printer to your LPT port
2. Printer monitoring (ink monitors etc etc), remove all printerdrivers through add/remove programs
3. Huh

If you made any of the above modifications you need to restart windows, this can also help temporarely.

I would suggest that everyone should use the modified Art2003 schema posted by Sandungas with the diodes removed and an USB connector added.
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AZImmortal
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« Reply #776 on: February 10, 2010, 09:15:38 AM »

Does anyone know how to fix the following problem with WinPic800?  When I try to start it up, I get the following error msg: "Failed to install -> wp800io.sys."  Subsequently, I'm unable to get any hardware detected.  I've already tried to reinstall several times and it does install the drivers during the installation process, but afterwards, I still get the error msg.

Edit: I should add that WinPic800 used to work ok, but now I get that error every time I start it up.

I had to reinstall mine when i got this message.....have you tried that?

 Huh
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High Contrast
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« Reply #777 on: February 10, 2010, 01:04:41 PM »

Hi,

I've managed to dump a nad using the lpt way, but now wish to try with the usb spi. I've ordered all the parts from farnel threesixtyusers updated version, but have a n00b question.

Am i right in thinking, i still need to use a art2003 to program the pic with the flash flies or am i able to do that with this usb spi?

I have tried to look through the thread for the answer but it's a big thread with a lot of information, so sorry if this has all ready been answered.

Many thanks

HC
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ReverseAffect
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« Reply #778 on: February 10, 2010, 01:12:33 PM »

Hi,

I've managed to dump a nad using the lpt way, but now wish to try with the usb spi. I've ordered all the parts from farnel threesixtyusers updated version, but have a n00b question.

Am i right in thinking, i still need to use a art2003 to program the pic with the flash flies or am i able to do that with this usb spi?

I have tried to look through the thread for the answer but it's a big thread with a lot of information, so sorry if this has all ready been answered.

Many thanks

HC
art2003 to program the pic
yes the supplied programmer has to be built to to program the pic first...
A Willem or anything you can build will do this to...if you know how to..
« Last Edit: February 10, 2010, 01:14:55 PM by ReverseAffect » Logged

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High Contrast
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« Reply #779 on: February 10, 2010, 01:19:57 PM »


art2003 to program the pic
yes the supplied programmer has to be built to to program the pic first...
A Willem or anything you can build will do this to...if you know how to..


Thank you. I have a Willem for reading tsop from cable boxes. Cheesy
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