USB SPI Flasher with PIC18F2455 - now with source and binaries

[MisToR]

you should recheck all your traces and dont mix op the pin 10/16 to 28 it should detect your pic first, i also have the 2550 and its working good., other you can read and write what you want but it will fails.

as shown in your screen it does not detect the pic for instance or does it??

on my newer pc i need the 5v usb to program it on my older pc i can program it without the 5v usb power pupply.

your multimeter is really your friend in this   and check for sort cuts etc.

Good luck there

[Jaac]

This is my first post, so be gentle with me. Usually i'm a reader and not so much of a poster, but since I finished my PIC(and EEPROM) Programmer and mini USB SPI Flasher a week or two ago, and already used it to JTAG 2 boxes, i thought to post some pictures and info about the stuff i learned as it might help others. Much of the info was obtained in this thread, although the etching process is a different story.

It started out with the schematics for the "mini" USB SPI Flasher, which i used to replicate in Eagle to my own version, so that i could produce a layout for it. Ive managed to have a jumper less layout, so no need for putting manual wires on the top side, the circuitry on the bottom makes all the necc. connections.


Combining an old HP Scanner and working Philips Facial Tanner, I made a UV light box some time ago, which i used to transfer the layout to photo-resist pcb's.


After i developed the layout(caustic soda)and etched(sodium percarbonate) the boards(unfortunately no pictures of this because i was working fast) i coated the PCB's. When the coating dried up i drilled the holes.


Then it was only a matter of assembling all the different parts and solder them, and of course a final examination before the test.


This whole procedure was a-like for the PIC and EEPROM Programmer, except the source files where already available from the project page.


Preparing the PIC18F2455 :
-Using WinPic800 3.64 i flashed PicXBoot.hex(from PICFLASH_v3b_plus2 package) on a PIC18F2455 using my PIC and EEPROM Programmer
-After that i switched the PIC18F to my "mini" USB SPI Flasher, put a jumper on the jumper pins (bootloader mode) and hooked it up to my computer.
-Then using PDFUSB.exe from the MicroChip package i flashed PICFLASH.hex to make it fully programmed chip.
[added a full hex backup with LVP ON at sources]

--> Each time Windows asks for drivers you point to the Nandpro2.0b directory and it will find the correct drivers!!

As explained by Sandungas the flasher will behave as follow:
JUMPER ON - Device detected as: Custom USB devices/ Microchip Custom USB Device  <-- Bootloader mode, used for flashing the 2nd part onto the PIC.
JUMPER OFF - Device detected as: LibUSB-Win32 Devices / Memory Access  <-- Flasher mode, used for reading/writing NAND.

As said before, the flasher works great. Used it to JTAG two Xenon's and had none bad blocks at all on at least 5 identical READS in a row.
Im glad i switched from LPT to USB, it saved a lot of hassle and a lot off headaches with long wires, interference and incompatible LPT ports.

Room for improvement for my next version(rev1):
-pin header instead of solder pads for connecting the J1D2 and J2B1 connections
-female 'mini-B' USB connector instead of female 'type A' USB connector, because A - mini-B USB cables are more common then A-A , and most people have them laying around.
-no coating anymore, because it'll make a mess and flux will dissolve the coating anyway, plus the added drying time is a pain
-maybe a switch instead of a jumper for bootloader/flasher mode switching

Farnell Part List(might be handy for other DIY's):
RESONATOR, ZTT, 12MHZ
PIC18F2455-I/SP
RESISTOR, 0.5W 5% 100R    <-- x 5
RESISTOR, 0.5W 5% 10K     <-- x 2
CAPACITOR, 0805, 220NF, 50V
CAPACITOR, 0603, 0.1UF, 50V
SOCKET, USB, PANEL, PCB, TYPE A
SOCKET IC, DIL, 0.6", 28WAY
Solder used - Stannol Sn60Pb40  melts at 183 degrees celcius [contains lead!]

Sources:
PIC and EEPROM Programmer Project page
PIC and EEPROM Programmer Source Files
Original mini USB Flasher Schematic
"mini" USB SPI Flasher rev0 by me (source file package containing Eagle files and B/W Layout) | MIRROR
WinPic800 3.64 package (for flashing PICBOOT.hex over COM)
Microchip USB package (contains PDFUSSB.exe for flashing PICFLASH.hex over USB) | MIRROR
PICFLASH_v3b_plus2
Full PIC18F2455 Backup, LVP ON, Resonator 12Mhz | MIRROR

About the Full PIC18F2455 backup;
The one posted earlier in this thread had LVP OFF, but since my programmer is an LVP programmer that would not work,
so i flashed the original PICFLASH 3b plus2 files which had LVP ON, and made my own full backup which i posted here.

For reference i wanted to check which sectors changed because i couldn't find that info anywhere else, here's the output;

Code:

C:\>fc /b full2455.hex "full2455backup(lvp_on_12mhz).hex"
Comparing files full2455.hex and FULL2455BACKUP(LVP_ON_12MHZ).HEX
000066E0: 31 35
000066F0: 36 32

[AZImmortal]

Where did you get 5v from?, and you connected all 3 grounds?

Did you install a text only printer to the LPT port?, and can you try another pc?

I got 5V from a variable power supply that was adjusted to supply 5V.  Can you explain what you mean by "all 3 grounds"?  I did install the generic text-only printer and I tried both of my PCs with parallel ports.

[Copper-Bit]

guys sorry for this
but another help question

ok build my flasher like it's shown here.
it read some blocks ( like till block 50, sometimes 100) and then it stopt, with error. Like it will happen when you sudenly plug out the usc cable.

don't know why, there is 5.07V on it, all the time.On an other port 4.9.
what i did then was puged a 1N914, black side the motherboard, to point 4.Guess what, nandpro can't flash controller. So, puged in another 1N914 but blackside to Pic. Now there are two diodes, but don't shut down a side.

That helped. Now i could read further, like to block 200,even to 330. But never to end.

So decided to switch the resonator, to a crystal 12mhz and 2x27pf capitors and point 4 straight connected.

Now it's working even worse.Reads till block 24 , sometimes 41.
did the diode trick. And guss what it's reading better over block 100.

what does this mean. maybe there ist a resistor needed on point 4. but how much ohm?

Why is the resonator working even worse.the 27pf capitors dosen't help. it's working like without them.
i've got a 12mhz HC18 resonator , but here they meantioned a HC49/4h.Where ist the difference.

Sorry i know i have a leak of knowledge in elektronics.But some infos would help.

[maximilian0017]

I got 5V from a variable power supply that was adjusted to supply 5V.  Can you explain what you mean by "all 3 grounds"?  I did install the generic text-only printer and I tried both of my PCs with parallel ports.

1. Ground of the DB25(lpt1)
2. Ground of the chip
3. Ground of the variable power supply

 

[AZImmortal]

1. Ground of the DB25(lpt1)
2. Ground of the chip
3. Ground of the variable power supply

 

Yes, all three grounds were connected.

[ReverseAffect]

peeps got to quit straying out of the diagrams or what is posted here only....

you state stuff like i altered this because it did that or i changed this because it didn't work that way
or i ran it wrong will this part be ok...

your messing with the pic buffer by altering code or parts...if not blowing a part
how the helll should we know wtf you did wrong, if you alter the stuff posted here..
if you want help...stick to 99.9% of everything here dammit....

your not being fair to us..and in the end it will start lowering down to a private no post thing...
remember this...
the makers work hard at this stuff....give them a break

[maximilian0017]

I got 5V from a variable power supply that was adjusted to supply 5V.  Can you explain what you mean by "all 3 grounds"?  I did install the generic text-only printer and I tried both of my PCs with parallel ports.

Ehhmm, looks like i read over that the first time...

What kind of Variable powersupply is that?, did you measure the output before connecting?

Sometimes it says 5v but will output like 8v without sufficient load(like a pic that takes about 34 mA), thats the reason the modified version uses a usb connector, always 5v with a good ground.

[Copper-Bit]

is there a good tool for testing the usbflasher

lpt runs great, slow but it's reading till 3ff with just one 250 error at 33D.

[Arakon]

plug it in. that's your test. if it appears as "memoryaccess" and nandpro doesn't complain about not finding the hardware, the flasher itself works.

[ReverseAffect]

is there a good tool for testing the usbflasher

lpt runs great, slow but it's reading till 3ff with just one 250 error at 33D.

what motherboard?
flash xbr(for your console) along with kv and config if you say the lpt way is done
that error shouldn't affect it.....

[Copper-Bit]

no guys, my problem isn't getting it done.
i know i can xbr it via lpt.

i don't know if you read my post some posts above, but my problem is the usbflasher, it dosen't work right.
And i did everything right, i check everything.It reads,but it stops ramdomly,giving errors.

So i want a program that can give me some info.

[AZImmortal]

Ehhmm, looks like i read over that the first time...

What kind of Variable powersupply is that?, did you measure the output before connecting?

Sometimes it says 5v but will output like 8v without sufficient load(like a pic that takes about 34 mA), thats the reason the modified version uses a usb connector, always 5v with a good ground.

Yes, I measured the output with a multimeter before connecting it.  It was measured at exactly 5V.

[dak]

no guys, my problem isn't getting it done.
i know i can xbr it via lpt.

i don't know if you read my post some posts above, but my problem is the usbflasher, it dosen't work right.
And i did everything right, i check everything.It reads,but it stops ramdomly,giving errors.

So i want a program that can give me some info.

You said you added diodes ?
Remove those, build the flasher exactly how it is shown in the schematics, there is really no need to change a working system...
What are the crystals specs ? Something like +- 1ppm or +-0.1% ?
If you used wires and if they are very thin, replace those with thicker wires, especially for the 5V/Ground between usb and PIC. Resolder all solder points with flux.

@Jaac: nice work

@AZImmortal: Sorry but i just remembered a part that i didnt say before:
When the ART2003 stopped working with my PIC, I programmed it with a Tait Classic Programmer. Afterwards i plugged it back into the ART2003 and it got recognized again. So maybe there went something wrong while prog'in with the ART2003...

[blackillusion]

Thanks i have built my art2003 and flashed my pic18f2455 no problem

to those that have problem hardware ok, device unknown.
1. Check wiring
2. Check diodes facing the right way, cap and resistor also
3. Plug your pic in the right way(rotate 90 degree)

hope this helps

[AZImmortal]

@AZImmortal: Sorry but i just remembered a part that i didnt say before:
When the ART2003 stopped working with my PIC, I programmed it with a Tait Classic Programmer. Afterwards i plugged it back into the ART2003 and it got recognized again. So maybe there went something wrong while prog'in with the ART2003...

I do wonder why I can read the PIC but not get it recognized in the ART2003, so I suspect (although I might be wrong) that my problem isn't hardware-related, but rather software in some way.  I'm going to build the Tait but keep the ART2003 to mess around with afterwards.

[d4m4n]

I do wonder why I can read the PIC but not get it recognized in the ART2003, so I suspect (although I might be wrong) that my problem isn't hardware-related, but rather software in some way.  I'm going to build the Tait but keep the ART2003 to mess around with afterwards.

Many have problems with ART2003. There is a solution.
http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=12306.msg100406#msg100406

[simon66]

Sup guys. Im not that much of a writer but more of a reader. Ijust wanted to know how can I convert a board image from Eagle to the black in white printable from? Like this

From this:



Into this:



All this in eagle. I want to convert My board. Thank you

[AZImmortal]

Many have problems with ART2003. There is a solution.
http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=12306.msg100406#msg100406

Thanks, but I did respond and say that it didn't work for me.  I'll try it again this weekend.

[Jaac]

Sup guys. Im not that much of a writer but more of a reader. Ijust wanted to know how can I convert a board image from Eagle to the black in white printable from? Like this
..
..
All this in eagle. I want to convert My board. Thank you

There are a few ways to achieve that.
Personally i find the following method the easiest, use the CAM processor. Set it up as follow:



-Use PS (or PS_Inverted) as device to generate a postscript file (.ps).
-(Mirror OFF or ON, depending on the way your going to put the layout on the pcb you might need it mirrored)
-Make sure only layers Bottom, Pads, Vias and Dimension are selected.
-The page details get filled in auto-magically, i never changed them.
-And of course select a location for the file to be saved.
Press Process Job, and the file will be generated.

Will get you:



Personally have all sorts of adobe apps installed, and Adobe distiller will auto convert to pdf if i open a postscript file.(that is if you like .pdf more).

Some tweaks to eagle before you export to a layout, could be;
-Options-->User-Interface-->Misc section; Always vector font ON, Persistent in this drawing ON
-Options-->Set-->Misc tab; Display mode section; No Drills ON (instead of Real)

p.s. Just finished my new version (on the background ). Going to try to produce it this weekend, but i'm not sure if the small openings i have chosen this time will be doable, but i like the challenge.