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spzke
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« on: July 25, 2009, 09:37:24 AM » |
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Hello everyone, I haven't been keeping up in the progress of information obtained about the lite-on drives structure.
Here is my case, I've got a dead PCB with a console key on it I need to retrieve and I also have a good PCB. Instead of component troubleshooting the dead PCB has anyone ever swapped the quad package IC off a dead board onto a new board in search of reading the key like that? From what I understand the quad package does hold the key information?
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B1N4RY
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« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2009, 11:37:42 AM » |
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Swapping the IC won't work , because the controller is already fried, and will not respond to the key challenge command.
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Arakon
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« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2009, 01:05:20 PM » |
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unless there's actually another component fried, but considering the controller is the first thing that usually goes, that's unlikely.
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I do NOT give support by email, PM, ICQ or whatever. Anyone annoying me that way will have his balls removed. With a rusty butterknife. Slowly. And I'll enjoy doing it.
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spzke
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« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2009, 01:36:22 PM » |
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@arakon, I had my rs232 level converter connected to 3.3v line and gnd on the dvd drive, my extractor shorted out on my PC case and the drive would not respond after that. I haven't inspected this board much but my guess is that the MC is probably still ok?
Also want to mention that I was using an xbox 360 for a power source.
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Arakon
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« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2009, 02:59:00 PM » |
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Forget it. You fried the controller (the serial port is part of it). So even if you swapped chips, you'd still end up with a fried serial port and no means to extract.
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I do NOT give support by email, PM, ICQ or whatever. Anyone annoying me that way will have his balls removed. With a rusty butterknife. Slowly. And I'll enjoy doing it.
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SOWA_PL
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« Reply #5 on: July 27, 2009, 03:57:24 AM » |
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hey.
Did you check if other drive will work with your console? I know, you haven't key but just check if open/close will work..
And check the r203, r204 and r207 resistors on liteon. If you have a short, sometime these resisors are just fried, not the controler at all..
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HOMiE7
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« Reply #6 on: July 30, 2009, 08:16:39 AM » |
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hey.
Did you check if other drive will work with your console? I know, you haven't key but just check if open/close will work..
And check the r203, r204 and r207 resistors on liteon. If you have a short, sometime these resisors are just fried, not the controler at all..
Can you tell me nominal of these resistors?
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SOWA_PL
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« Reply #7 on: July 30, 2009, 08:22:09 AM » |
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0ohm, it is like fuse..
If is burned you can just solder jumper.
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HOMiE7
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« Reply #8 on: July 30, 2009, 09:41:02 AM » |
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0ohm, it is like fuse..
Thanks. My client looks like fried R207. I've swapped this Lite-on to Samsung.  If is burned you can just solder jumper.
But if somebody connect power up side down then MT1319L will be killed. Am I right?
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B1N4RY
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« Reply #9 on: July 30, 2009, 09:50:12 AM » |
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Obviously, you are feeding the 5v line 12 volt.
Arakon and gigaturd didn't believe me saying that bridging the jumper will work, even though it sounds risky. Now I have proof that I was right.
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HOMiE7
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« Reply #10 on: July 30, 2009, 10:25:30 AM » |
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IMHO bridging jumper is risky for real, because if power cable will be connected up side down again somebody can fry drive's CPU. But bridging will work. Resistor has 0 ohm resistance whatever.
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B1N4RY
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« Reply #11 on: July 30, 2009, 02:04:34 PM » |
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I've bridged both R709 and R710 for a customer that have lost the resistors, and the xbox drive still works fine after one year.
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robinsod
Global Moderator
Xbox Hacker
    
Posts: 648
Perl packed my shorts during global destruction
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« Reply #12 on: July 31, 2009, 04:51:16 PM » |
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R207 is a 'link' - the '0' means 0 Ohms. You can safely replace it with wire.
Don't know about '709 & '710, put a meter on them and let us all know. Could they be boot mode select jumpers?
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Arakon
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« Reply #13 on: July 31, 2009, 05:03:50 PM » |
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they're 100 ohm, and on the eject and tray status lines as far as I know.
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I do NOT give support by email, PM, ICQ or whatever. Anyone annoying me that way will have his balls removed. With a rusty butterknife. Slowly. And I'll enjoy doing it.
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SOWA_PL
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« Reply #14 on: August 01, 2009, 09:53:06 AM » |
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HOMiE7, what I can see you have burned trace, so check with the multimeter if someting could be burned too behind the resistor. If you will find replace it and solder the wire to burned R207 and should work.. Arakon and gigaturd didn't believe me saying that bridging the jumper will work, even though it sounds risky. Now I have proof that I was right. Yup, you're right, I repaired few drives and can confirm it works.. It could be risky but as Robinsod said you can replace it with wire. If you will repair it and put drive back to the xbox and just leave it, it will work exactly like with the original resistor. To many work to duble check if the power cable is connected correctly?  they're 100 ohm, and on the eject and tray status lines as far as I know. Yup, you're right
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« Last Edit: August 01, 2009, 09:55:20 AM by SOWA_PL »
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yaywoop
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« Reply #15 on: August 01, 2009, 07:02:21 PM » |
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R207 is a 'link' - the '0' means 0 Ohms. You can safely replace it with wire.
Don't know about '709 & '710, put a meter on them and let us all know. Could they be boot mode select jumpers?
in this case I believe its actually there as a sort of fuse to protect against wrong power polarity or something shorting out inside the drive. its safe to replace with a wire IMO but just as long as whatever caused the blowout in the first place doesn't happen again! some might have noticed there are the same zero ohm resistors on many PC dvd and hard drives around the power socket. I once recovered 1TB of data by replacing these resistors after (stupidly) plugging in the molex upside down into a dodgy hdd power splitter. anyway if you have a spare hdd or dvd drive you may be able to get replacement zero ohm resistors from there to retain the safety of having fuses in the drive.
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B1N4RY
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« Reply #16 on: August 01, 2009, 07:19:22 PM » |
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It's safer to resolder resisters for long term purposes, because bridging them may cause a the laser to get eaten up faster. A customer that have done so have reported that he is starting to get unreadable media while in the middle of a game frequently
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« Last Edit: August 01, 2009, 07:21:18 PM by B1N4RY »
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yaywoop
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« Reply #17 on: August 02, 2009, 02:19:24 AM » |
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that is bs the laser has a complex regulated supply with feedback in the optical path to make sure the laser is always at the right power regardless of tiny fluctuations of the supply voltage. there is no way replacing these zero ohm resistors would cause any long term damage to the laser
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B1N4RY
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« Reply #18 on: August 02, 2009, 11:21:30 AM » |
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I didn't say replacing the 0 ohm resistors, i was talking about the 100ohm and the 10k ohm resistor, R709 and R710
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bonzo pl
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« Reply #19 on: August 03, 2009, 01:41:12 AM » |
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