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Author Topic: Liteon 0800 with SATA-to-USB enclosure?  (Read 13036 times)
mossman70
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« Reply #60 on: March 24, 2012, 01:43:03 PM »

neonpolaris,
I'm just in the process of doing the exact same thing with my old HD DVD case and stumbled across this thread, your drive looks excellent pal.
I've got a Benq to use in mine and I also ordered a few weeks ago the exact same Sata to Usb mini board as you used and hoped it would work which looks like it does!!
My intention is to do away with the two type A usb ports and just use the mini one (as its only for ripping), that way I'll save space inside and solder it straight to the sata to usb board (think you mentioned that above?).



As you, I'm still getting power from the main board in the HD case so this will also power the fan but I've got a Maximus 360 power unit hanging around that I don’t use so I've soldered the power (12v, 5v and grounds) from the main board pin to a molex connector to power this.



My hope (before I read this thread) was not to bother with any eject switch and just use it in Windows but  you said that this doesn't work? So my next step was to remove the eject button from the Maximus board and still utilise the original eject switch on the drive by soldering the wires back to the Maximus board and hopefully it will still eject, from the four wires on the eject switch (red, green, black and grey) do you know which is what for power and such?
Also which wires do I use from the mini usb on the HD case as there are 5 wires but on the sata to usb board there's only 4 solder points and obviously one's ground?
Many thanks for your pictures and posts they've been very helpful.
Mossy
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neonpolaris
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« Reply #61 on: March 25, 2012, 11:45:08 AM »

Is the eject button on the Maximus board a momentary or toggle switch?

To make the tray open or close, you have to supply either 3.3v or gnd to the pin on the back of the drive.  The switch on the front of the HD-DVD case is only a momentary tact switch, so you can't directly use it to switch the supply to the pin without some other logic.  (Unless you want to hold for eject, release for close.)

However, if the Maximus board's eject switch is momentary, you can just connect the front eject button in parallel with it, and allow the board to use it's own logic to handle the eject.  If the Maximus board's eject button is a toggle, then you'll have to find another way.

"Finding another way" is exactly why I made my little eject board (see above).  If that is the scenario you find yourself in, you're in luck!  It just so happens that I'm building a UV-based etching setup and in a week or so I'll be etching a set of all-SMD eject boards based on the design I used above but smaller.  I've got all the parts (for the setup and the boards), it's time that I lack currently.

Anyhow, as far as the pinout for the board in the board in the HD-DVD drive already, the red and green are the positive supply to the red and green leds, respectively.  Black is ground (pretty sure), which makes grey the switch pin (gnd when button pressed, floating when not pressed).

Edit: Actually, looking at pics of the Maximus Power Dongle, it looks like the eject button is momentary, but I don't see any anything that toggles an output (at least not on the top).  Does it push for eject and push again to close, or push for eject and release to close?
« Last Edit: March 25, 2012, 11:51:39 AM by neonpolaris » Logged

mossman70
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« Reply #62 on: March 25, 2012, 02:10:18 PM »

Thanks for the reply pal,
Not fired the Maximus power supply up for ages so tried it out and your right its momentary and has no facility on-board to toggle so its push for eject then soon as you let go it closes, so plan b is required I think.
I had a quick look for sourcing all the bits needed to build an 'eject board' (from your guide) prior to my inspiration with the Maximus board but if your making a few and have one spare that your willing to sell that would be great??
If that's the case I'll probably do away with the Maximus board altogether as from my photo it's a tight squeeze for the sata to usb boarb and just get the power from the main HD DVD board and incorporate the eject board within as you did.
Thanks
« Last Edit: March 25, 2012, 05:42:44 PM by mossman70 » Logged
neonpolaris
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« Reply #63 on: March 25, 2012, 10:18:16 PM »

If you're fine with 'hold for eject', it would still work fine with the computer.  (Just wire the green led to power with proper resistor.)

As for the board, I hope to have three made sometime in the next week.  I want to make them now, I just haven't the time yet.  I'll let you know as soon as they're done.
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mossman70
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« Reply #64 on: March 26, 2012, 02:58:40 AM »

If you're fine with 'hold for eject', it would still work fine with the computer.  (Just wire the green led to power with proper resistor.)

As for the board, I hope to have three made sometime in the next week.  I want to make them now, I just haven't the time yet.  I'll let you know as soon as they're done.

Thanks for the update,
Think I'd rather have a press for eject and a separate press for closing rather than hold and let go so I remove any chance of the tray trapping the disc and scratching them??
Let me know if you'll have a spare one to sell, I'm in no rush to finish it at the moment.
Thanks
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neonpolaris
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« Reply #65 on: March 26, 2012, 07:56:11 AM »

Fair enough.  I'll definitely have a board for you.

Using my board for eject, the Maximus becomes completely redundant in this, so you may as well take it out.  All it will be doing for you is regulating 3.3v from 5v, but 3.3v is already available on the power board.  A multimeter and/or the notes further up the thread should be all you need to make the cable to go from the power board to the drive.
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mossman70
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« Reply #66 on: March 27, 2012, 04:52:29 PM »

Fair enough.  I'll definitely have a board for you.

Using my board for eject, the Maximus becomes completely redundant in this, so you may as well take it out.  All it will be doing for you is regulating 3.3v from 5v, but 3.3v is already available on the power board.  A multimeter and/or the notes further up the thread should be all you need to make the cable to go from the power board to the drive.

Thanks neonpolaris,
That was going to be my first option but thought the Maximus board would make it easier but looks like it's not the case. Drop me a pm when you have a board ready and if your willing to sell it pal.
Thanks
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neonpolaris
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« Reply #67 on: March 27, 2012, 08:52:05 PM »

Done!



I'll PM you for details.
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mossman70
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« Reply #68 on: March 28, 2012, 11:32:10 AM »

They look nice and compact.
PM returned
thanks pal
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neonpolaris
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« Reply #69 on: April 04, 2012, 03:17:43 PM »

Overall not bad for my very first uv etch.  The copper in the big ground fill is a bit light, I blame weak toner coverage on my transparency.  I guess I'll have to use a better printer or double up on the sheets.

Anyhow, all three work (tested), and have been sent out.  Thanks for the interest guys!

Updated pics for reference:




The blobs aren't labeled on the board, so here's the pinout.

Left side, top to bottom:
  • Power (3.3v)
  • Eject
  • Ground

Right side, top to bottom:
  • Green LED
  • Button
  • Ground
  • Red LED
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mossman70
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« Reply #70 on: April 04, 2012, 05:10:32 PM »

Nice, thanks for your help
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mossman70
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« Reply #71 on: April 15, 2012, 12:10:28 PM »

Job sorted  Grin
With a big load of help from neon  Wink,





I was just testing the drive, which works perfectly and now to make it a permanent fix and pack it all in and fit the cover!!
Cheers
Mossy
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neonpolaris
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« Reply #72 on: April 18, 2012, 09:37:08 PM »

Sweet, glad it worked well for you.
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