Liteon 0800 with SATA-to-USB enclosure?

[neonpolaris]

Has anyone here used a liteon (or any 360 drive with 0800 capable firmware) with a SATA-to-USB enclosure?

If so, what model was it?  Did it work?  Not work?

Is there any technical reason why going through the adapter would make the rips of less quality?

Also, does anyone know the part # for the socket that the power cable plugs into?

---

Just to say ahead of time, yes I know eSATA would perhaps be easier, but I have my reasons.

[CrUnc}{eR]

there is a thread on xecuter forums requesting an 0800 drive enclosure. I think it would be a good idea. Im not aware of any that would work.

[.ISO]

I've tried a Samsung 0800 in a USB enclosure before (with the black legs cut off so it would fit) and it works fine

[neonpolaris]

So I've ordered a liteon and a 360 HD DVD drive (for an external case).  I think that the liteon will fit in the enclosure with the legs cut off.  At first I was thinking of adding an eSATA port to the back (so it's not any different electronically), but I think USB will make it more useful.  I could use my laptop if I wanted.

It'd be great if the power/usb hub/sata-to-usb board inside would 'just work' with the liteon like it does with the HD DVD.  It would cover all the bases.  I doubt this will be the case, so I'll have to find a SATA-to-USB board that will fit, and either find or make a power board that supplies 3.3v from 5 or 12v.  (salvage off the original board maybe?)

I'm also hoping that I can pull the tray cover from the HD DVD drive and put it on the liteon.  The liteon's will be curved and the HD DVD will be flat.  It would save me some hassle, but we'll see.

[.ISO]

Show us your progress once you are done...
By the way, planning to do anything with the guts of the HD DVD drive?

[neonpolaris]

I've looked at the HD DVD teardown at llamma.com:
http://www.llamma.com/xbox360/repair/Xbox_360_HD_DVD_drive_disassembly_tutorial.htm
and this is what it looks like to me.

The board on the back of the enclosure seems to only supply power.  This is great, because it will be easy for me to use it for power without anything else from the HD drive trying to enumerate on the host.  It looks like the board on the back of the HD DVD drive contains the USB hub and USB-to-PATA? adapter on it.  The small plug between the two boards looks like the same power connector that the DVD drive uses (I'll verify first) and that would be perfect.  The larger plug looks like just three USB cables coming from the back ports (one in, two out)  I could easily connect these directly to a small USB hub.

I'm guessing it's a PATA connection on that board because the connector on the back that plugs into the HD DVD drive looks like the connector on a laptop optical drive to me.  I don't have one in front of me at the moment, though.  This means that this whole board is useless for my project, but it might be interesting to plug a slimline drive into it to see what happens.  I have my old dvd burner from a laptop of mine that I wouldn't mind frying for the sake of experiment. (I replaced it with a lightscribe)

@ISO:  The HD DVD drive itself?  I'll probably test it out on my 360/PC just to see it work before I pull it out of the case.  That is, if I feel like renting/buying an HD DVD (still available?).  Other than that, I have no use for it.  Seems like it will work if you can supply it with power and a USB connection.  I wonder if a slimline to regular PATA adapter would work with it, to make it an internal drive for a desktop and cut out the USB hub.

Either way I have no interest in keeping the drive (or the board on the back of it).

[Gazcoigne]

i have read that certain usb to sata converters can cause CRC errors whilst ripping the the games

see

http://abgx360.net/index.html

[neonpolaris]

That's an interesting read.  I wonder if the adapters at fault produce errors with any game read or just some games.  Is DMI all that's affected?  I guess I'll rip with/without the adapter and compare files.  I run everything through ABGX to check anyhow (read-only).

I have one external enclosure for a SATA hard drive that gives both USB and eSATA connections (a Mad Dog I bought from Radioshack).  I don't want to give up this particular enclosure, but I can use the board it to test.  If it works I'll just buy another of the same kind.  I was hoping that among all the people here, someone had successfully used a liteon (or another 360 drive) over USB.  Maybe most people just use Kreons?  I do, and it's been bulletproof so far, but I guess I'm waiting to see how all this SSv2, v3, etc BS plays out.

I just got my liteon in!  I can test it with the aforementioned SATA enclosure tonight, but I'm still waiting on the HD DVD. I can use my CK3 for power in the meantime.

Edit: Looks like Redline99 has used this:
http://www.xboxhacker.net/index.php?topic=7657.msg48806#msg48806

Edit 2: Looks like that the Mad Dog enclosure's SATA-to-USB is no good for this.  Couldn't find that Evertech one Redline mentioned.  I've ebayed one that specifically mentions optical drives.  iX 1.6 0800 working fine over SATA, though.

[neonpolaris]

Ok guys, I got my HD DVD drive in yesterday and here's what I've found out so far:

Taking the first piece (side piece) is HARD with just your hands.  The guy at llamma.com must be a beast.  I stabbed a screwdriver down there and pried the thing open.  It left a couple marks, but its in the back anyway.

The drive inside is the same shape as my liteon, so after I chop off its legs it should fit right.  It does not have the tabs that the HD DVD is screwed down with, I'm hoping the case itself is enough to keep it in place, we'll see.

The chome bezels on the drive trays connect the exact same way, I only have to cut one little tab off the liteon.  This tab supports where the bezel curves away from the drive on the 360, but the HD DVD bezel sits flat on it.

The power connector for the drive is NOT NOT NOT the same.  The HD DVD drive is a 10 pin, and the DVD is a 12 pin.  At first I was hoping it was the same, just minus where the serial would go, but it's not.  The pinout is completely different.  The pins are the same in both the 10 and 12 pin connector, so I just pulled the pins out of one end of the 10 pin cable, and plugged them into a 12 pin end.  No splicing required.

I need to adapt the eject button.  The button that mounts up front is a momentary button.  To eject the drive by its power connector, I need a latching button.  I don't know how to handle this purely with hardware.  The only experience I have with uC's is the Arduino, which is really too big for this.

My last Arduino project, adding a Ford keypad to my Dodge:
http://www.caliberforumz.com/showthread.php?t=24348

So I ordered an 8-pin PICAXE which should be enough to do what I want and be as small as possible.  I haven't dealt with PICs before, but for such a simple application it shouldn't be hard to learn just enough of the programming language for what I need right now.  If someone knows a really simple hardware only circuit to do the same thing, let me know.

Also, there's less room in there than I expected.  I want to keep the power board in there because it gives me all the right power I need and mounts the power socket into the back of the case perfectly.  Its going to be a tight fit to put the USB-to-SATA board out of the other enclosure in there.  (Plus a USB hub!) I may have to find something smaller.

[Tiros]

I need to adapt the eject button.  The button that mounts up front is a momentary button.  To eject the drive by its power connector, I need a latching button.  I don't know how to handle this purely with hardware.

If someone knows a really simple hardware only circuit to do the same thing, let me know.

How about a SPST switch?
Edit: Oh maybe you want to save the same switch?
Well then how about a toggle flip flop?

[MichaelCasson]

nevermind, I suck cocks

[.ISO]

nevermind, I suck cocks

Quoted for Truth.

Anyways, SPST switch may be good, but get those clicking ones. I like them better

[neonpolaris]

So I got the SATA-to-USB enclosure, and it works.  Unfortunately, I can't fit the board in the HD DVD enclosure without a whole lot of work.  I've ordered an itty bitty one that I'll try next.



Here's the modified cable that I used to power the DVD drive from the HD DVD's power board:
Power board side:



DVD drive side:



I used yellow for 12V, red for 5V, and black for ground. (Like a moloex connector)
Orange is 3V3, and the gray on DVD side is eject.

@Tiros: Yes, I want to keep the same switch.  It mounts just perfectly in place, and the board it's on has the light for the front.  I'm not familiar with toggle flip flops.  I'll be searching that later...

[.ISO]

If you cut off the black legs on the bottom, it would fit.

By the way, do I see torrents on your desktop? YOU PIRATE!

[neonpolaris]

The enclosure in the picture is the generic SATA to USB, not the HD DVD one that I'll be using.  I'll cut the legs off when I'm ready to put it in there.

I don't download xbox games, if that's what you're implying.  This is my first, one and only xbox, and I'm still pretty paranoid about getting it banned.  If I downloaded games, why would I even bother getting a Kreon drive, and then this?

If you must know, (I just booted up my laptop to check) those three torrents are:

Ubuntu 9.04 Desktop 64-bit
Linux Mint 7 64-bit (hot off the presses!)
The Daily Show with Jon Stewart

So *gasp* I pirated a tv show.  I usually catch it on Hulu, but I wanted to try out the media streaming capabilities of my new DNS-323 to my xbox.  Works great, but the Xbox codec support is limited, (no h264, mkv) so no anime stuff   Windows Media Center will stream the h264, but nothing in an mkv container.  I just tried out playon, which will play Hulu on the 360, (really well, too) but I need a computer on to serve it.  Compromise, compromise.

[.ISO]

Haha I was joking, no need to get so worked up about it

[neonpolaris]

I can't find a simple one chip solution for a flip flop.  Everything I see requires a handful of components and a chip.  Or a bigger handful of components and no chip.  It seems like I can handle the conversion with a PICAXE and a couple resistors.  Also, with the PICAXE, I can adjust it's function without redesigning the board.  Now I wait for the parts...

[yaywoop]

I can't find a simple one chip solution for a flip flop.

if you grab a jk flip flop. pull the j and k inputs high, it works like a toggle flip flop. also a D type flip flop with !Q connected to D will do the same thing (I think)
ie: the clock input will toggle the outputs.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flip-flop_(electronics)#Toggle_flip-flops_.28T_flip-flops.29
very simple cheap one chip solution. and its simple enough that you needn't bother with a PCB
you would also want a simple low pass filter for switch debouncing
so in total that is one chip, a resistor and a capacitor
if you want a schematic i can draw one

yeah I just made one with a cd4013 d-flipflop i had in my junk box and it works fine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WStmKshZck

hey, so does using a HDD SATA usb adapter actually work? because i would love a portable 360 drive.

[neonpolaris]

Yes, the SATA to USB enclosure that is the the picture above with the laptop is this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200312747427

In the picture I'm actually using it to rip a game, so it does work.  The drive won't fit in the included enclosure without trimming the dvd drive's case a bit.  The legs are too *wide* for it.  Also, you'd need a 3V3 source, I didn't check if there was one on the board.  For my test I just used my CK3 with a 120v to molex power brick.

I've since ordered a really tiny adapter:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110405554051
I'm hoping that this will work to save me some space since I'm already using the HD DVD's power board for a power supply.

I also have an itty bitty usb hub coming:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270397840456
It's the same one I used to fit a flashdrive and keyboard encoder *inside* an NES controller.  (Portable USB Nintendo Emulator with integrated storage)  The cables desolder from the board easier than a usb port does, and the board itself is tiny.  Edit: Don't order this hub.  I ordered two, one wasn't recognized, one was but only ran at full-speed (12mbps).

If you would make a diagram, I would be thankful.  While testing the drive in the enclosure it would stay closed with the wire pulled low, and eject when disconnected from ground (left floating).  It was steady, so I wonder if it's pulled high internally.  Your circuit can only switch between pulled high and pulled low, correct?  I don't yet know if it should be 5V or 3V3 that I bring it up to.  Your chip should work with either, so it doesn't matter really.  What is the part number for the single circuit version of that chip?

[yaywoop]

hey i was going to get the exact same sata adapter from here
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.8110
but then i thought a 3.5" enclosure would be better because it includes 3.3V, 5V and 12V for the drive.

I connected it to my drive, with the circuit running off 3.3V it works great. just connect the output directly to the eject wire.

I looked on the website of my local electronics store and they didn't have any single flip flops. idonno, google it. but its fine just to use a dual one and only use half.
here is a schematic for a cd4013 D-flipflop