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Author Topic: SMD LED 0603 Soldering  (Read 2870 times)
jelle2503
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« on: March 31, 2009, 04:39:02 AM »

Hi all,

well my 2nd attempt to replace LEDS on a 360 wireless controller have succeeded... to where the first one got mucked up due to pads that broke when i tore the leds off  Lips Sealed

i have used this polarity scheme:
http://www.360-hq.com/images/tutorials/uploads/ea44ad7b271eddf9bb978a922f602a813c40a24e.jpg

the LEDS i have, have a T on the bottom, and also a little green dot to mark the negative side...

here's what i've done.. top right one was a bit difficult to get off but all 4 leds working fine,


except that when i put in 2 battery's, all 4 leds are lit veryy faintly... to where the battery pack faintly lits up 1+3, and 2+4 seem to light up some more...

but when i press the guide button, all 4 leds light up as they're suppose to..

what am i doing wrong? polarity is ok. LED are fit ok
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jelle2503
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« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2009, 05:05:48 AM »

got rid of every red led i had soldered

put blue ones up there instead, they work ok

i'm assuming the polarity wrong.. kinda weird as i know this is important and i closely paid attention to the red led polarity

my first succesfull led swap Cheesy so happy
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gigabite
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« Reply #2 on: April 02, 2009, 12:56:49 AM »

Quote
except that when i put in 2 battery's, all 4 leds are lit veryy faintly...

this is because the controller is wireless i.e battery powered, the battery's don't supply enough current to be able to properly power them very bright (unless the battery's are brand new, then they will be bright)

gigabite
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coming 2009
jelle2503
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« Reply #3 on: April 02, 2009, 06:29:56 AM »


this is because the controller is wireless i.e battery powered, the battery's don't supply enough current to be able to properly power them very bright (unless the battery's are brand new, then they will be bright)

gigabite

you're wrong... if the controller is off, with any kind of battery in it none of the lights should be lit, untill i press the Guide button

but that's in the first post, if you'd read:
"but when i press the guide button, all 4 leds light up as they're suppose to.."

... already been swapping LEDS on Charge Base, Wireless Headset, Play&ChargeKit and my other controller.. i like soldering
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gigabite
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« Reply #4 on: April 02, 2009, 06:37:39 AM »

no sorry I am wrong...sorry I miss interpreted what you meant, in that case it goes to when I first saw your picture...you kept the heat on your leds to long (melted them partially). Replace them, and don't keep the heat on to long Wink

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Arakon
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« Reply #5 on: April 02, 2009, 11:25:00 AM »

it's normal, it even happens on the original LEDs, mostly if you have a PnC kit.
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jelle2503
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« Reply #6 on: April 02, 2009, 01:47:54 PM »

the headset one was pretty fun to do, just some random color:

couldn't swap led4 it had 2 resistors on each side.. really tight. couldn't bother

still gotta do my vision camera. red/blue i think

and gotta find some stuff to clean up the muck left behind..
« Last Edit: April 02, 2009, 01:50:25 PM by jelle2503 » Logged

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k0mpresd
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« Reply #7 on: April 02, 2009, 01:51:26 PM »

i changed all 4 in my headset to red. been like that for a long time without issues.
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notherbastard
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« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2009, 04:28:14 PM »

if by "Muck" you mean the flux left behind, Isopropyl Alcohol would be preferred, or methylated spirits works well.

OR if you got some $$ to spare, get a can of proper PCB cleaning solvent.
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jelle2503
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« Reply #9 on: April 03, 2009, 01:07:44 AM »

thank you for the tips.
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